 All right so on today's vlog I wanted to do a long haircut again because you guys have been requesting that but I also wanted it to have a more face-framed straight look. So here is our end result. This is our it's got a nice side-swept bang. The big focus of this haircut is to make sure that on the right hand side the heavy side of her parting we took out a lot of weight. So you can see how that falls nice. It's got a lot of shattered layers in it. So we work layering and through this entire cut. I think you guys are going to enjoy it. Let me know in the comments below what you think. I enjoy all the comments that you guys keep posting and that's pretty much it. Tomorrow I am going to be headed to IBS New York so I'm going to be covering that so we won't have a step by step video but we will have a really fun IBS coverage video for you guys. So thank you guys so much for watching. Let's get started with our step by step cut. Here we go. All right so we're gonna start off by parting on the left hand side of the head. We're gonna work that all the way back through the back and then we're gonna take a section from the high point of the head and part it down to behind the ear. Really what we're gonna do here is we're gonna split the front of the cut from the back. So we'll call that the division line. We're gonna create a U shape from ear to ear and just separating those. Then what I'll do is I'll clip it away before we get started. The key to clipping away this section so I'll just slide a clip in. I'm really just doing it on the top layer of the haircut and that's really, you don't always have to do that but it just works better if you're trying to keep the hair separated and not touch any of the hair in the back of the head. So now I'm gonna work through. This is something new I wanted to add to this vlog. I wanted to show you guys kind of the head sheet or the map that we're using to cut so you can see the over direction. So what we're doing is we're working everything over directing it to a stationary guide directly over the parting. So just combing. Once we get to the parietal ridge, we're gonna make a shift. So just work your sections across the head over directing over the parting. Then when you get to the parietal ridge, what we're gonna do is we're gonna take a guide from what we had previously cut. That's gonna get over directed straight up from the parietal to create a new guide in the head. The reason for that is I don't like to over direct. We've talked about in past videos over too many corners because it just creates too much weight within the haircut. So if I want to keep this face frame nice and light, then it's good to shift yourself when you get to that parietal ridge area. So just again, bringing up over the forehead, kind of using the forehead as my cutting line, the angle that I want to cut the hair. So I'm taking horizontal sections across and then over directing them straight up and out over the forehead. This is gonna give me a nice light effect to the haircut. We'll work our way all the way through till we run out of hair. And then that is our face frame and fringe area. Now I'm going to work the opposite side, same horizontal sections, same finger angle. The only difference in this part is there will be a disconnection at the end. The reason for that is you're not over directing the hair as far. So if you want to keep the sides of the haircut even, you need to leave that disconnection. Also, this is a weak side of the haircut. So when you're working with a weak side, you don't want to remove the same exact amount of weight as you do on the heavy side. It just doesn't make sense. So that's going to be our disconnection. We section it off pretty much the whole entire temple area. That's what I'm going to keep as the disconnection. So you can see how the face frame plays out. It looks really nice. This is, again, great for curly hair because of the elevation. It lightens up the curl, but it's also good with somebody that has thicker medium to thick hair density as well. Now we're going to work in the back. I'm going to create a lot of over direction in the back. I want my my shortest point to be in the very center. So you can see through the diagram, we're going to work across vertically over directing the directing the hair up and then over directing everything to the center. This is creating a slight concave layer. You can call it, I guess it's not really slight. It is a concave layer, but using that elevation to remove a maximum amount of weight and create a lot of texture and layers in the back of the haircut. So this is really where the idea of the diagrams came from because I didn't showcase how far down we were on the head in this part of the cut. Now I move the camera, but I wanted to show you guys so we work occipital bone up. I leave the bottom from the occipital bone down to be disconnected because again, that will just leave a little extra weight in there and to be honest, it wouldn't reach all the way up into that layering anyways. So just working through keeping my finger angle the same, trying to stay consistent with everything. That's the whole goal of this and over directing everything into the center. Key thing here, I'm pushing now because I'm working on the right hand side of the head. I'm pushing the hair away from me. That's going to help keep the consistency because I'm not pulling that guide from where it lives. I'm pushing the new hair to the guide. That's the key factor in this cut. So once we get our self worked all the way across, we'll comb it out. And now we're going to do a blow dry, quick flat wrap. Do this in most cuts. We're using our Ergo flat brush, just to work the hair around in the vibrostrate iron to iron it out. I want to smooth polish this haircut. I would do this with every guest that comes in, even if they were going to wear it with more of a curling iron effect, because I like seeing the weight shifting. You couldn't see the weight in the fringe area if you didn't go in and smooth it all out. So now I'm going to go through, elevate the fringe and just lighten it up with a little point cutting. Then I'm going to go through with a little slide cutting to create the face frame really piece out the face frame, because we did a lot of stacked layers around the face frame. So now this just separates it when I go sliding in there. I've used my Mizitani scissors the entire time. I use my DB 20 for the precision part of the cut. And now I'm using my Mizitani puff in for the dry cutting portion, because that is my dry cutting scissor. All of these scissors are on Free Salon Education. So if you want to learn more about them, just go to our website free salon education.com and you can check out the scissors. But I go through peace out that face frame. Now I'm going through same elevation with the concave layering. The key to haircutting, like I've said in every single video is just making sure even in the dry cut, you're elevating the hair very similar to what you did and you're not trying to recreate your shape. So if I over directed the hair to the center in the back in the wet cut, I do the same thing in the dry cut, and that will keep my haircut looking the way I wanted it to. Alright, so just finishing up the back. And now what I'm going to do, I want to go in and I'm going to clean up the perimeter of the haircut. This is something I love doing on long hair, because I think a lot of people get wrapped up in starting their longer haircuts from the bottom and working their way up and using the bottom as a guideline. What you need to do is determine how much weight you want to take out of the cut, take that weight out and then start cutting the perimeter at the very end. So definitely take that tip guys. Try that in the salon. I think that you will definitely be able to use it. I think you'll be able to use this cut as well. So thank you guys so much for watching. Hope you like it. Alright guys, so as always, hit that like button, hit the share button. Make sure you post in the comments what you thought about today's vlog. I love seeing the comments throughout the day. It really kind of builds up the passion to keep this going. So appreciate that. Also, if you have not subscribed to this channel yet, make sure you hit the subscribe button. You don't want to miss anything. We post videos every single day. So I wouldn't want you to miss out. Thank you so much for the support and thanks for watching.