 So we went upstairs check the wiring on the thermostat just a generic honey well came down here and notice one of the elements was on So I ended up doing was unplugging Thermostat wires from the control board. That's the easiest thing. So we undid RGWY and all that and it's still running meaning we're still pulling the average on our relay and really sticking on I Think that particular relay also does the blow or at the same time boy You can feel the heat just the bare-bone minimums to get you by save a couple dollars on wire Our relay is this one right here. It seems to be sticking Having problems with the heat pump supposedly not running, but I think they might have an outdoor staff That's shutting it down Unfortunately, we just got to kill the power there and kind of go from there Let's go pick up one of those little relays. I took the little rectifier board off of the relay That goes right on top of it like that pops down on top of it But that's the little relay there. It's rated for 25 amps and on average most of the strips pull about 20 to 22 so you're just the borderline For what it's rated for sometimes 30 if you're at 277 of 412 Lasted almost to 10 years. I feel like we should replace both of them honestly One went out the next one's getting ready to go out went ahead and got both of them. She okayed it So we're gonna go ahead and get those both replaced That'll make it a lot more reliable. Hopefully for another 10 plus years We got everything in place and changed back to exactly the way it was. Let's go ahead and put that on Of course thermostats probably calling Let's Unhook this again Let's do this one more time here. There we go thermostats not calling. That's good The heater elements do not delay at all. They go immediately because it's just a relay. Okay zero amps on that zero on that one And zero on that one. That's good. Let's go ahead and plug this thing in Thermostats probably gonna boot up This definitely is one of the worst designs I've ever seen in my life. They should put a strip in there Let's go upstairs and turn the thermostat on. We'll put it in auxiliary heat first Okay, so it wasn't running when it was in the other mode Don't sound like it's doing real good in this mode Oh, that's kind of scary as hell. Why the hell would they have ever used aluminum foil? So they can dangle down. That is nice That's really nice You can see she has a little bit of sulfur water. It looks like you can see the Carbon buildup. I turned the power off. I didn't even see that That's partially loose Look at that. It's only something Of course, it's on a day when we're busy and it's eight degrees out Every one of these are garbage. So let's chop these off get some new ones on there I tightened those up as best I could by just squeezing them. They have in there needs a better squeeze Ah boy, this is one of those residential calls. It just keeps giving You can uh, see that we got the breaker on there Can't really focus on that. Is that a bad wire there? It sure looks like it Anyhow Going across the breaker here at the bottom We've got no voltage go to the top of it And we do So we got a bad breaker Freaking junk There at reset. That's not very good Nope did not reset She says she had some as much of a redone once and obviously the Breakers have already been damaged All right, so we gave it a little tap there must be some Prud or something in that breaker Because it now kicked right on for me As you can hear the fans running We got 242 down on bottom 242 on bottom of that one. Here's our readings. We've got 20 amps on that one 20 amps on that one And 20 amps on that one All the strips are working That needs your place A lot to get that Let's go ahead and check this heat pump out make sure it's working Went ahead and got the filter swapped out. She's got a few clean ones over there We took that piece of insulation the reflective coating took it off. It still has insulation there So it won't short out got new crimp on On There that is not a normal crimp on Took the limits out squeeze those down. They look better what they did The crimp on there got replaced and that one over there was able to be squeezed down also It Honestly feel like this limit should be changed as well Okay, this just keeps getting better. It's not even really a breaker. It's just a disconnect You have two elements on a 60 Pulling 20 amps a piece. You have a Single element that pulls 20 amps on a 60 then you come over here and you're like, oh look at this We've got them all combined together under one two-watt aluminum wire Let's go over here and look at our breaker box. See what's feeding this So we go over here to this disconnect box and look what's feeding it A 60 amp breaker. So I start to pull it out and I'm hearing crunchies already Yeah It's pretty much burned it up because they've been overloading the stupid thing all this time You can't pull 20 amps per element just say 22 246 So there's 64 amps plus the blower another five or six amps. There's 70 amps You need to be 20% underneath your breaker should be about a hundred amp breaker Supposedly too hot aluminum. I'll have to double check the charts. Somebody's telling me that's good for 100 I need a hundred amp breaker But now what damage has been done to the bar. So I gotta get that out of there real quick Like I said, this is just the gift. It keeps on giving That breaker is jacked That is not good Not good at all and those lugs You can't fit that big of wire under there, you know what these did they chopped off a couple strands So it would fit We might be able to rearrange some of the lower amperage breakers Up to the top up here, but that thing Yeah, it's right on there with two smaller Breakers, but my goodness. That's just absolutely hasinine Okay, I did double check with the electrical company and stuff and this 222 wire Is rated for over a hundred amps. So we do got us a new Breaker here. Look at the lugs. They're actually big enough to handle it So we're going to get rid of these pieces here that are cut off and just get a whole new fresh piece Let's go ahead and kill the breaker main Let's see if we can find some better spots in here That right there looks a little bit nicer than what the other one does Let's take a look underneath here. See if some of these other ones look any better Yeah, those look a lot better too, but unfortunately they probably yeah, they might actually reach up there So let's see if we can't Switch some of these lower amperage ones up here to the top Let's make sure that's completely off Completely dead Works there not there That is so bad Half this was not labeled anyways. It's not a humongous deal Let's put this 40 back where it was at. Anyway, not more than one thing's off I'll move both these up higher got those in place there Because these are just plain screwed up There's that There's that we'll trim those up. It looks a lot nicer and like I said Look at that It actually fits in there when you unscrew it a little bit, but it'll fit in there Went ahead and got her back into place We had to do the bending of the wire then put the breaker in then plug it into the breaker Didn't in advance did not work out very well Got everything better Situated in here We are good to go got that 40 back in there It went ahead and relabeled these went over top of it Those two that I moved here just boom since they went stacked up I just copied what was there to there overlapped it with that got the disconnect here Like I said, this is not A tree breaker all it is is a disconnect Very expensive disconnect to say the least And there's our new board Like I say in the way this thing Is getting power For the blower motor you're only using one Speed so it was no backfeeding going on the blue and the black come up here And one goes to one side of the relay and one goes to the other the power side of the relay Is the bottom which is the black one the black one is the normally open Which means when it's energized will close so call for g And then the blue one is the normally closed so In the heating mode when it's really energized it instantly puts power then down to the blower So that way they don't have to energize g for to run It's not like the old fashioned ones that had a A bimetal disc in there that switched We're gonna make sure these are tight. I hate crampons for high amp load Devices I think it's a horrible design. It should be a clamp down bolt down style design, but This is faster and cheaper. So that's the way they do it As I got looking at it It doesn't look like it's an option to put those spade terminals on there anyway So we went ahead and stripped them Tie them together We're going to make sure we keep yellow to the right black to the left that way the phasing stays the same That way if by chance anything ever gets reversed in here We won't have a dead direct short phase to phase got everything back into place here far as the breaker Everything's in tight power still off Got the new board in there Been double checking this here just to make certain You come down to here and you look at it and right Here is the single speed blue for the fan comes up to obviously that spot there That normally close goes to the blue and then normally open goes to black So normally open is black Or in the blue is normally closed whether or not that's how it was when I first did it I never touched that so I don't I don't think that anything to do with it either way when you look at it It's No way that it should have been a problem because when you follow this black wires here it goes over to the transformer Which is what they're doing right here. You follow the black goes over to 230 volts of the transformer You've got the blue wire which comes down and just goes then straight through the blue wire is getting powered off of the plug The plug isn't showing you that that's where the Relays at but all they're doing is making sure that the fan is getting power Whether it's being energized from g or whether it's being energized from the relay So we should be good to go. Everything's back tight We got these on order. They're the limits. They're not here yet Everything else is good made sure all the wires are tight. Nothing's touching anything. Nothing's shorting I'm always a little bit more cautious after something like that catastrophically burns up when I had nothing to do with that I can think of But let's go ahead and turn on the main and let's see what we get. So always turn your head to the side Good to go there. We're just going to put it on regular heat for now We've got it up to 72 that should Easily cause the all auxiliary to come on The fan came on. I didn't have that the last time. We're still waiting there. You can see the hold I just sort of double-click heat just came on we should Be getting heat pump and we should be getting the auxiliary heat. Let's just go ahead and crank it up So I want to make sure it comes on. Let's go out and see if the heat pumps running. So I'm not here in the heat pump, but there could be An outdoor thermostat shutting it down I thought I seen extra wires running out here. Be nice. Well, this has got its own delay in there So we have to grab the nut runner to get it going while we're down here. Miles, let's check See if this thing is running the auxiliary heat here 20 amps on that one 20.6 on that one And we got 20.7 on that one. So grand total you've got around 62 amps something like that So we're not blowing anything up. That's a good thing Let's go ahead and get this cover on it and find out what's going on with this heat pump Maybe it's just on delay. Hopefully with the circuit board. Okay, good sign the heat pump is running Not gonna be the most energy efficient thing today But it's a lot cheaper than running 60 some amps of current versus But this thing's pulling and getting a look inside here. We do have an outdoor thermostat The compressor is pulling five amps So you wonder why people in Ohio have heat pump? It's for people that live out here in the country They don't have natural gas and don't want propane Uh, you know propane you got to buy all of it up front. Boom 400 gallons Could be a thousand dollars. It could be five hundred dollars. Just depends on how much you're getting screwed by the government that day So we're at five amps versus 62 63 amps inside It's kind of a no-brainer It looks like we got it shutting off somewhere around 20 degree mark here Looks like we got a dual temperature deal here. Not sure why they have two of them But from what i'm seeing You've got Yellow wire there yellow captures it and sends it back on this blue wire The blue wire is going to It looks like a green wire which I'm going to say shuts off the heat pump when it gets down to 20 And uh, that's the end of it now. We could go further just to test it Well, that's Froze up That one does All right. Well, let's be good stewards here and see if we can switch it To the other one. I went ahead and opened up the circuitry here. Nothing changed I've tried it between all different three terminals there open and close And this is not working Nothing's opening or closing at all So whatever it was which I have a feeling they're either bringing on electric strips when it gets down to a certain temperature Or they're trying to shut down the compressor See if this Is hot. Yes, it is hot. So the suction line is Pumping out hot gas. That's good We've got blue Going down connecting to y which is yellow. Yes yellow And blue goes to g or green Gotta go inside see what that green goes to When we come back with the limits, we could replace the thermostat at the same time My feeling is it'd be nice if you had a fancier thermostat that way It just automatically did it based off outdoor temperature But who knows I came down here. Here's the green wire. That's for the fan green Here's the green coming to the outside Somebody has already unhooked it And there's the yellow going right from white on the white call on the thermostat straight to the outside unit You can tell that that's the green because the other green is left over There's a two wire going and doing something red and white that is going So this one here Which kind of goes to there Which goes to there which goes up Over and around and outside and I don't even see that one outside. So To say the least nobody's doing anything with that. So she's got to turn that off when it gets super cold out There's always some heat out there Um, there's a couple different philosophies here. I've seen two different Ways of doing this you can set it up so that and reason why I've got this blower like this Is so that it's sucking the air through the evaporator When it's running since it's in heat mode But a couple different things that I've seen them do I've seen them stage the electric elements so that they bring them on as it gets colder to kind of supplement the heat Because you know back in the day We didn't have all this fancy ecm blowers and automatically stepping down as it gets colder and all that fancy jazz So we did stuff with outdoor thermostats old mechanical ones like that that could have been what it was I've seen them just go ahead and break y and send it right back on w So that just runs the electric strips and shuts down the heat pump all together So there's a couple different things that could do She's not been having that for a while. So we'll go ahead and get this tucked back in there and button this thing up Okay, this thermostat obviously goes all the way up to 70, which is what we're set at auxiliary heat staying on It would be nice if it had a step in between there Let's go down one see if it all shuts down It took forever, but the thing finally shut off the fan. It appears everything is shut down That'll time into the heat pump section Go make sure that nothing's running down there on the heat pump or on the air handler. I do not hear the electric strips humming Do not feel any heat. All right guys too Just so you know usually on this kind of wiring system We normally would have is a six gauge wire that would take care of two of the elements Which is 10 kw and then a 10 gauge wire for the other 5 kw and that's usually the cheapest way of doing it run this bigger wire is not usually cheaper It usually costs more Also, the breaker is sized for the wire not for the appliance down here the Air handler did not come with any electric strips. So there's no amp Rating for what it's supposed to be the installers did not put that on there You got to have at least 65 amps to 70 amps with the fan and everything say about 72 amps You want to stay 20 underneath what your breaker is rated for? So if you have an 80 amp breaker, you want to stay 20 under that that's how the breakers are really rated Um in a perfect world, which isn't obviously a perfect world So even though we have a hundred amp circuit available, we're only using about 70 amps 73 amps somewhere in up ballpark That's shooting high on the motor amperage But we're good to go on that. Let's go back outside. So what I ended up doing was taking this uh thermostat out There's no reason of having it in there How much time did we waste trying to track down and see why it wasn't working? What it ran things like that if you're not going to fix the job get rid of that garbage get it out of there Another thing I noticed too this unit is newer. This is a 2016 The air handler downstairs is a 2002. So it's been changed and updated there Now whether or not the evaporator coil was updated. I'm not 100 certain because it is aluminum So there is a good chance that that evaporator was changed now. What's kind of weird was I noticed it's not a txv It's just an orifice Which I know carrier has always been using orifices on the outside But on the inside usually use a txv and it doesn't have one which is really surprising Means that unit there probably is a little more efficient than some of the uh standard ones back in its day So about would have had to change that evaporator would have figured But anyhow guys, I just kind of wanted to mention those last few things there We just got to come back and get the uh limit switches on the air handler Everything's checked made sure everything kicks on kicks off If you guys enjoyed the video and you want to see more like it, you know, the thumbs up really helps It doesn't cost you a nickel. 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