 All right, I'm jumping right into this today. We are on part two of the JVC D-Series consumer television restoration process, and this particular JVC CRT, the model number is AV36D501. So this massive 150 pound television was taken apart in the first video and then thoroughly cleaned because unfortunately it was prior to my acquiring it, it was owned by someone who smoked heavily inside of it. And so this one is, it's been thoroughly cleaned and today we're going to get started on the capacitor kit and basically the whole board work or what we'd like to call circuit board work here. And we got the chassis pulled and then I've got all the cards pulled out of the monitor where we've already gone ahead and taken it apart, excuse me, the television. First thing I need to do is get the main chassis out of the black plastic frame and there were a couple clips that I showed just a second ago. Let's show you if you pinch those clips you can pull this board out quite easily. Now unfortunately this board had no, there was no service manual that had a direct parts list for these capacitors. So every one of these capacitors that were changing had to be individually checked and it had to have the location of it recorded and then I wrote down the value of each capacitor for each section all on a piece of paper and then as I did that I would go through and put tick marks on top of the capacitors just so I knew that I had already marked them and then I could go back and double check if I wanted to reference that with my list of capacitors but I pretty much just took a small legal pad and I wrote down every little number and then what the value of the capacitor was. So on these circuit boards there will be a letter C on there that stands for capacitor and then generally a three digit number that you can that will exist only for that one spot and that's how you record where each part goes into and each capacitor goes into. So I went through and manually wrote down 158 of these capacitors what the value was and where they were located and that's how I made my cap kit and again I went through afterwards and I marked every single one off with a black tick mark using a sharpie. Now what you see here is how I translated that yellow legal pad from a something where I was just you know getting the where I was just taking the values down and then I was turning it into an order sheet so the left is the white piece of papers the first thing I worked through and I want to tell you this just in case you have to you know build your own capacitor kit for really anything that you might be trying to restore or rebuild but I went through first and I logged each different type of capacitor the voltage as well as the capacitance or microfarons and then I was able to translate that over into another list here where I consolidated them and organized them by voltage and then the size as well and then I could go through from that list and say eliminate some of these lower voltage capacitors that I might be using the same voltage or I mean the same capacitance on some of these other capacitors with higher voltages so I could just consolidate my order and order less low voltage parts that I that I didn't really need any one or two parts I could just use a higher voltage replacement which would be fine so after I did that and I made my order I went ahead and while the order was being shipped and prepared I generally use mouser as my order place for capacitors but you can use digi-key or anything else but you just go in there and I don't get any kind of a kickback or anything from them I don't order nearly enough stuff so what but if you go in there and you you make your capacitor list you can save it and then you can come back and if you need to order parts again or order a capacitor kit again you can do so but while I was waiting for that to come in I went ahead and I'm using my HACCO FR300 desoldering tool and this is a really handy tool when you're working on some of these awkward shaped circuit boards like especially the circuit boards in a CRT that will have your flyback transformer in it you don't really want to set that down against anything this one had some awkward tuner parts on it so the best way was just to sit there and heat up that pad really you just heat up the solder you don't even touch the pad and as that solder liquefies you hit the suction trigger on that tool and it does a great job of pulling that solder away and leaving you with just the tips of your capacitors and a clean pad then there afterwards so I had to go through and do that on every board I would say that removing the capacitors probably took between an hour and 45 minutes to two hours total for me to do it some people would probably be faster and some people might be slower than that but you don't want to try to force anything you want to make sure you know take your time when doing this so you don't damage a spot on the circuit board and have to run a trace really just any of that kind of stuff is completely avoidable if you just take your time and concentrate and let your tools do the work for you so the rest of this desoldering you know parts of this video is just going to show me pulling these capacitors so you know you got to do your best to work around a lot of these this double-sided board has small little parts on it you can't hit them with that hot tip of that desoldering tool so just concentrate and make sure you don't accidentally tap into anything or burn a trace or even a connection pad because you're going to need those pads to be in good shape when you try to install your new capacitors just some more desoldering here and once I have all the capacitors out here are some photos of the board afterwards there are a couple capacitors on here these are bipolar capacitors I left them in there intentionally and then this big one because I wanted to change those separately but I did change them this was just for the majority 99% of the capacitors and there they all are I just kept piling them up in a rubber made you know plastic bin and these are what the cards pretty much looked like with all the major capacitors removed and I would go through then after this and definitely need to clean it again but I wanted to show you some of the areas on this board that were just obviously high temperature obviously around again the heat sinks is going to be a high temperature area but there's a lot of these other parts especially right here this was probably the hottest area on the entire CRT right in here so I went through and after I even did the cap kit I reflowed the solder on those points just to make sure that the solder was going to be nice and there weren't going to be any you know issues with the connection points down there considering how high heat it was and here's some other things now we're going to get cleaning so even after all that initial cleaning we need to do some more cleaning with some actual rubbing alcohol on all these boards before I even install the capacitors I want to make sure I try to get that extra layer of grime and smoke and other just build up off all the components and especially like these input connections for the composite cables and that's that's just the individual boards and this is the actual entire video card here the connection points was just really grimy and gross with a just a lot of build up so I'm going to get in there with some rubbing alcohol and clean that even before I solder in the replacement capacitors so I'm going to use 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean these parts and then just an old soft bristle bristled toothbrush to go in and rub those components and circuit boards and try to get the initial layer of grime and grit off of there as well as anything else that might just be stuck and I don't want to make sure that nothing has any opportunity to bridge under that when you reinstall it but this is majorly a job of getting these circuit boards cleaned up and ready for reinstallation inside the television so this first board is the little F board that is the input board that would go right in the front of the television input three and it was just again disgustingly filthy so it would take you know this cleaning job and then even after this I have to reclaim these circuit boards again before I put the entire television back together so I really like to use that the the tray I'm using is made of just porcelain and clay it's actually an old you know wedding registry gift that I really don't use too much to cook but it makes a good tray to catch these you know just isopropyl alcohol and not really worry about anything corroding in it because it's clay and porcelain porcelain so it makes a good cleaning surface or good bowl to catch all your cleaning stuff in and don't be afraid to take that bristle brush and work in around a lot of those small crevices try to get as much of that dirt off as possible and then you know the good thing about rubbing alcohol is after you get done cleaning it a lot of this the initial chemical will just evaporate off but if you have any that just stays left over it's a good idea to go with compressed air just blow it off I actually was gonna it's gonna be a couple days between when I got this board already and clean and all the boards ready to when the capacitors were showing up so it had plenty of time to sit there and evaporate all the extra rubbing alcohol off so here's what a capacitor looks kit looks like when I get it from Mauser it's literally I don't know I think there was like 40 different caps in this maybe more and then they're all just in bags labeled and I have to take my sheet which I think this was about six pages of a cap kit key and go in and I'd sectioned it off by board first and then there's the board actually had diagrams on it where it was labeled like a map would be where you could look down and find a square so you could coordinate that with a section on your cap kit so it was laid out really nicely to be able to come in and do a capacitor placement to just say unfortunately the thing was not being able to find a good parts list for it so for example I'm going to start with just showing you how I'll resolder the new capacitor I'll solder the new capacitors in to the little card here the littlest card and that's like a picture-in-picture assembly or something but it's very minor card but it has a few capacitors in it so we'll change those first and first thing I do is I take the capacitors from the master lot of them which is just you know the big pile over there at the top of the screen and I find the specific caps that are going to be used for this board and then I just start going and installing them all at one time on one board you know as many as I possibly can so I'll show you that just remember I showed the last thing you might have seen on the screen was my flux and flux is definitely your friend now I often get you know criticized sometimes about my soldering techniques and how I solder on other projects that we've worked on in the shop and that's fine you know there's no or I don't believe there's one perfect way to solder and I know that I'm not the best at soldering so but flux is my friend and it's your friend and helps really make these jobs a whole lot simpler the first thing I like to do is for right here I'm sitting this one capacitor in and I've put a bunch of flux on the two connection points there and then I'll go in and even add more flux to the tip of my solder and go and secure the points on that capacitor and then I come in and snip off the legs and I always come in the very end and refinish my solder by just tending it up because it's already got a lot of flux just built up on the spot and so I go in there and just you know reflow it make sure it's got a nice great connection there and that it looks real nice too and that's how I install all the capacitors at least in this kit again I'm tacking it down initially I'm knocking off those legs then I'll just go back and reflow the solder and I do that on every single component that I replace on here so that's just how I do it again there are other people that solder way better than me online and you know you can watch what they do but this is how I do it and it's it's works out really well I do end up using a lot more flux probably than I should and I also have a lot more cleanup afterwards because all that gooey flux does have to be rubbed off again with alcohol it doesn't just come off easily really it's it's nice and sticky especially when you heat it up so it'll just take a lot more time to clean up afterwards but it does a great job on securing your capacitors really anything that you're going to flow solder on there's also some points not on this particular board but some points on the other boards where I again will go in like this and reflow the solder on the old solder points and that's just in case there's something that I believe has a chance to have a high temperature extremely high temperature on it so that's just it for that little board and we'll take a look here at some of these boards after you know before the capacitors were really replaced in them that's all the boards and then here's what it looks like after so we've got all brand new this one was entirely Nishikon cap kit it's just looks fantastic at least the way it looks once it's been installed and this is pre-cleaning so we're still going to get one more cleaning on these components and everything but this is just what the boards look like after I replaced all 158 capacitors and there's the biggest one the nice Nishikon there so again I said this last thing is important too after you replace the capacitors just go in and clean the circuit boards pretty much identically to the way I cleaned them last time with some more isopropyl alcohol and put it back in the nice tray and just get in there and try to scrub off any leftover residue on the board because even after I'd cleaned it my goodness three or four times there was still plenty of just dust build-up and like smoking build-up on the boards where each time I clean it I'd still be able to get a little bit more off and that will be you know this is a more of a physical activity you know then you might think just having to get in here and clean it but this again these components won't get cleaned by just giving them a simple bath and say alcohol you do have to put a little bit of pressure on there with a nice you know soft bristle brush that's what I like to use but I had to go through and do that with every single board here just to make sure that nothing was left I didn't want any of that residue to be left I didn't want any flux residue to be left over I wanted the boards to be nice and clean and that way nobody will really have to service this television again for a very long time so that's how I recommend you do it there are obviously other ways to clean it and I will probably use some of those other methods I've seen other people use such as using like mean green or the you know the green cleaner on circuit boards make sure that I just want to make sure that I'm ready for that on something that's not so rare as this D series would be if something were to happen one of these boards and I wouldn't be able to get a replacement part it would be really devastating to have to throw away the whole huge television so after I got all my you know alcohol cleaned up again a lot of that will evaporate but it was sitting in it pretty heavily so I still like to go through with my air compressor and blow off the boards again and I let them sit for a day and after that I start to go in and reassemble the television which is exciting because that means you're getting closer to actually seeing if this thing not you know worked if this capacitor kit worked so first thing I did was I went in and installed the button boards that's the you know the input board number three and then the main power button as well as the control board there in the front and then after that I'm going to assemble our entire you know internal guts kind of of this television the main chassis goes on the frame there's no screws with this one so it just snaps back into place and then once it's snapped into place you can start installing the other cards and there is another board that's an isolation board for power but first I'll insert our cards here three cards and the third middle sized card does have the tuner in it and you need to make sure that you reconnect that tuner to the main connection point on the chassis and then you can use that black piece of plastic that goes against those inputs and it'll securely hold those boards into place and last there's the isolation power cabling and set up there so you you know you got your power input coming in there and then you've got some molex connectors here at the end to go back and connect together and I like to connect as many of these things as I can while the whole thing is out which there are a few connection points there's usually two or three that will go from the main board up to the neck board and that's the way it is with this one there's two of those and then there were some other boards that needed to be reconnected but the good thing is is each one of those little connection points as molex connectors is generally going to have a unique number of pins to it and then it will also have a number that's written on it or a letter in this case that tells you where they go and what happens you know where it goes after that so I want to show you this right here did you just see that huge bump on the screen I hope you did because this was the point where I almost entirely screwed up this entire repair and I wanted to show it to you because it was kind of a knucklehead move I tried to make in the first place you see the connectors on these little boards that I installed first I should have gone ahead and put the cables on them before I installed it but instead I decided that I didn't want to that I wanted to just wait and you know install it later and I actually got frustrated and I wasn't used to working on such a large tube and I knocked the top of my head against the crt uh electron gun and glass and the yoke and man it not you saw it jump on that uh on that video you saw how it rocked the whole crt back and forth and it really hurt so I'd made a mistake by just not paying attention to my surroundings I'm not used to working on such a large tube so uh I would have been devastated if that had really done a lot of damage to the tube that was pretty much irreplaceable at this point but that was uh that was definitely a scary moment and this whole restoration was the moment that I actually jumped up and hit that with my head plus it hurt really bad so it would have been a lot easier and simpler for me to have connected that cable before I had installed that board into the actual television and then I could have connected it later on to the main chassis so I've got pretty much everything connected here I'm just doing a final check on things that are connected there's a few things that still need to be hooked up like the degausing coil that always stays in place but that all those molex connectors get connected into place and then after that I'm going to connect the neckboard next it's going to be the neckboard and then finally the anode cap because we're going to do something special with that anode cap here in a minute but I'll put it up here and just connects straight into the connections there's also three or four molex connectors that need to be you know secure up there so just double check those and then we're going to get here and get into the anode cap before we do that look at this yoke it's very unique and weird it's held into place with some epoxy like spacers those white things are actually spacers in the corners of the yoke against the glass that I just touched they'll come into focus here but also notice on this yoke there's no rings to just purity or convergence really anything there's just a yellow solid ring around there now there's a screw that if you need to get the yoke off but again it's epoxied into place so it's going to be very limited on any kind of adjustment we can make we'll have to use whatever's available in the service menu and then have to manually add magnetism to this television to make really any difference with its corners at this point the last thing I did was I cleaned off that connection point on the back of my television with some alcohol I didn't record that part but I did just take a little wipe and put some alcohol in there because I want to get rid of all that residue and I reapplied some new dielectric grease this is what I bought it's available online it's called permatex is the brand and it's about ten dollars for this tube which is plenty and the first thing I did was I went in and applied a good layer over everything inside the anode cap I used a little latex glove which I didn't have all on all the way I just put my finger in it and rubbed that around and I got the entire thing covered in that grease including the metal part there and I also took some of that dielectric grease and applied it to the back of the television where this is going to connect to that was also very important and don't worry about it there's not a specific amount of this you need to apply you can use a little bit you know you can go a little bit heavy on it it's not going to hurt anything just make sure there's enough to get you a good seal between that this lubed up anode cap and the back of the crt so that's going to be the next step is just connecting that end of the back of the television up here and you could see where I've already had added some of that lubricant to the back of the tube now when you put this cap back in it's best to rest the little one of the sides of the two prongs on the cap against the black ring you rest rest the one side and then you pinch the other side down like I'm doing here pinch it down and it pushes together and then it'll stick right in there and spread out it'll be a good connection and then you just push down and get all the oxygen as much as you can out of your suction cup you've got a good bond there with your dielectric grease and everything and I just went back behind there and cleaned up that area a little bit but don't worry about it too much you can have the extra dielectric grease it's not harmful at all and now the television is pretty much you know all reassembled and now we're going to get a chance to finally test it which I'm excited to do but I'm also very nervous about and before I even test it I'm going to let it sit for a while so I'm going to let it sit for a day open like this and just let anything that might be on there as far as cleaner that's left over I'll let it all evaporate out and then the next day before I even test it I went ahead and reinstalled the shell because I didn't want to risk anything by just trying to turn this television around without the back shell on it and have the weight disproportioned and actually cause something to get damaged just trying to turn it around so unfortunately I had to pretty much reassemble the whole thing before I even got to test it which is not generally the case I usually will leave it open and try to test it and then make some adjustments but the fact is there's not a whole lot to adjust on the chassis there was only one the only potentiometers are in the back of the actual flyback so as I said I'm going to go ahead and let this sit now for another day before I actually turn it on and what I'm plugging in is I'm using the component input for the test that I'll be running the next day and that's going to be using HD retrovisions component cables through a super nintendo that has had voltars RGB mod in it it's a one chip and again I'm just going to set this all up and let it sit here and then over the next day I did take some alcohol and clean up the outside of the television some and remove some of the stickers that I had on there before but again this is the very first time powered it up and thankfully it powered on and man this was nerve wrecking because I turned it on and I got this jumpy crazy screen and I was like what's going on here but I remember my my uh super nintendo it acts funky sometimes and I have to like reset it a lot because of either power issues could be a bad power supply unit on there and I just reset it and it worked perfectly so you saw the little dimming I did there that was from the HD retrovision cables and they have a very nice dimmer switch on there and that helps when you're doing some adjustment or anything we just need to be the brighter or not so bright as quickly as possible and the first thing I did this is literally within the first two minutes of this television being powered on and I set it up with the component input and we're playing metroid three or you know super metroid uh letting it letting it play and it looks great it looks fantastic for just bright no adjustments right off the get go you will notice the curve at the corners how it bows a little bit but remember this this is not a flat trinitron tube this is a 36 inch bowl shaped tube almost like your eye lid so it does curve at the corners and out at the tip of the front of the screen so of course I wanted to just show some initial readings here from the super or the test suite on the super nintendo the 240p test suite from our team yo and just show you some of these grid patterns we still can use a little bit of adjustment here on our things like our geometry but overall it looks very nice and I was especially impressed with the linearity of this tube uh 20 years old still has great fantastic linearity just brown beautiful circles but we still still do have the issues in the corner uh in the corners with the convergence specifically the red gun on here it just seems to be burning out a little bit more than the other two colors I'll show you that more specifically here in the test I did with my convergence tool lens I pulled up a white line pattern you're gonna see it without the lens but if I show you what it looks like inside the lens it separates the colors you can see that red gun in the corner is extremely low compares the other two blue and green so that's why I'm seeing that red on the edge bottom edge of my white line patterns and again the only way I can probably adjust that is to manipulate it through magnetism internally so we'll try that in the next video as well as I'm going to locate a proper a proper remote to be able to calibrate this fully and then we're going to add RGB to it because why wouldn't I add RGB to it at this point so that's going to be coming now it will be a little bit of a break between now and that video coming because I've got some other things I've got to take care of before I get this one completely upgraded and I want to wait for some research to come back on some parts for the RGB mod but look to that to come and I'm going to have about 12 minutes left on this video and I get requests a lot to just see what you know what does it look like afterwards so since this was such a big capacity replacement restoration I wanted to show the screen just what it looks like right afterwards I've got 12 minutes of play through here so please just enjoy it and let me know what you think with a comment and if you have any questions leave them for me below and again I will see you guys next time with some more retro content