 Hi you guys welcome back to first impression Friday. We are still moving right along with our fall big five collections. This one is coming to us from Butterrick and if you are new here this is my series where I review entire sewing pattern collections whether that be a whole release from one of the big companies or an entire like catalog from a indie pattern company. So I've got dozens of these for you to watch if you like fabric or pattern shopping. I think mostly all the fall ones have been covered maybe we're missing like new look or I don't know maybe we're missing a couple of them but I know we have both McCalls and now Butterrick so moving right along this one is our first pattern here it's a coat by Catherine Tilton asymmetric coat has side seam pockets view a has top stitching around the seams with a hidden snap closure view b has a raw edge outside the seams and front buttons and average rating size options are 8 to 16 and then 16 to 24 so we have kind of a come on kind of a little bit of a boxy design here now Catherine Tilton as you can probably tell is and by also her little logo ART kind of known for things being a little bit quirky and this one is no exception it has especially this denim one where the raw edges are sewn to the outside and then you wash it to make it all raw and like you know really funky and then here's what it looks like when you don't do that application when you keep keep all your raw edges to the inside definitely still like curvy things happening she's always doing funky things with curves which make her patterns a little bit tricky to sew but if you like that kind of like artsy unique like nobody else is going to have a coat like this vibe her patterns are for you yeah look at that center back seam cool and there it is in the denim i wish that they would actually throw this in the wash instead of just like you know it would have like ripped more of it out but say lovey okay so yeah here the line drawings you can see just how like funky this coat really is i didn't even notice the ones on the sleeves um but yeah they're a little bit like a puzzle to put together but they create you know really unique artful garments so they're recommending denim wool cashmere double-sided fabrics double-sided fabrics hmm i wonder if that is because you use like the contrast like if you had a jacquard where you know it's like the reverse is that what they're talking about or do they think that because you sew the exposed seems like the other side will show maybe that's it but it'd just be a little bit of it um and then ponty ponty be a great um option for the one like the denim because you don't have to him ponty so you'd have all those raw edges exposed which would be cool um oh which they say here okay so a is the one with closed seams actually i don't know why they're suggesting double-sided fabrics is it unlined yeah but i mean even still i don't know but for b the one with all the exposed edges denim tweed tweed would be a super cool option think like chanel jacket but like turned on its head like chanel went into a gasset and made this coat um then we have linen and then ponty again okay so body measurements and then finished garment measurements okay great so yeah it's a pretty boxy coat they're only giving bus measurements which is totally fine for this shape of a like a line and it looks like even the bust has 12 inches of ease in it so really really roomy coat you're really just going to want to fit your shoulders and then everything kind of fall after that but bit of fabric hog close to four yards and interfacing but no lining although i'm sure you could totally line it no problem all right back to the beginning on that one next we have this coat in house design okay so um this is a women's coat so we've got sizes 20 to 28 and then 30 to 38 button front wrap coat with length variations has stand collar pleats at shoulders side pockets back darts center back and waist seams center back and waist seams okay coat eight has a belt uh belt loops side front buttons coat b has two button closure at waist view c has side front buttons and turn back cuffs okay so the main design here is a coat with these really dramatic pleats which at first just reading it i was like that seems like it's going to be kind of weird but i don't know it's kind of cool especially for women's because you know they you guys are usually fuller chested so that can act to like minimize that a little bit but then the dart even though you have the dart here you have a princess seam here so the shaping is still very much there and then this beautiful sleeve with a turn back cough but they all also have this waist seam and this sort of wrap situation you can see here on her line drawing how it makes that scoopy thing it reminds me a lot of actually this sew along that we did earlier this year for that windbreaker jacket had a very similar design where the princess seams turned into the pockets i love that it was really really fun to sew and it's like beautiful to wear you know i don't know it's just kind of smart okay now some illustrations that's a shorter version with the belt and then this is the sort of more simpler design with a lot fewer buttons here's the back so the back has darting here and a center back seam a little long in the shoulders i don't know if they were doing that to try and make it look a little bit more boxy or if it's just too big on her it's hard to tell but there are your line drawings very kind of full skirt here on the coat and then the back of the envelope we've got wool blends tweed gabardine denim for sure but i could totally see you making this for springtime too in those like cottons and cotton blends chambray all of that kind of stuff would be really pretty too so definitely a fall coat but maybe even like a lightweight spring one also can't you see it in like linen and like light i may i said chambray but maybe like a light little heavier than chambray on the lighter side of denim i think even the short one would be kind of cool in uh like a corduroy and then here are your notions so shoulder pads snap buttons buttons buttons side buckle yeah the usual stuff and then body measurements and finished garment measurements okay cool so they gave us bust and waist the bust has six inches of ease and the waist has 10 inches of these so sort of semi-fitted through the bust and the waist to be honest um so to pay a little bit of attention to fit here but not a ton okay next we have the mrs version of this same pattern so you can see what that looks like on a straight sized woman right here this version maybe because it's blue i'm not sure i'm getting much more like first lady vibes right i could kind of almost even see like a cat kate middleton wearing something like that i wish they would have made a different version i don't know why well i guess technically they did because they the other one has all the buttons maybe that's a reason why too why it seems a little bit more proper um because we don't have all the buttons going down the front but there you have it okay and then should be the same situation in terms of fit 29 to 35 yeah six and then 10 yeah so the same amount of ease um for both okay now we have this suit set i think yeah jacket and pants classic two-piece suit with a twist lined jacket draws asymmetry asymmetrically across the body and fastens with three buttons jacket features flap detail at front pants common ankle length and includes invisible zipper on the side if you see our wide leg pants okay so you get a jacket with it says flap detail does that mean there's not actually a pocket here or there is a pocket bag i don't know um um this one again has a little bit of a release in terms of like a sort of a dart similar to that last one just not as dramatic and then the princess seams a little peplum ish situation happening here those are the close fitting pants yeah very cool it feels kind of rock and roll to me the fit on the pants looks really good again you have the darting here the waisting for the peplum this might be some kind of like velveteen or velvet which i think is just really sharp um this would make a beautiful little set for like a holiday outfit if you did it in like a brocade or something um even matching same tops and bottoms um super cool and i love that they didn't just throw an elastic waist pant on there there's an actual pant with the waistband curved i bet it sits like one or two inches below your natural waist um and then you've got darting front and back on the pencil pant and then the wide leg pant they eliminated the front darts so a bit of a smart design here wasn't just like we just widened the leg which is incorrect so glad to see that too okay so gabardine which is kind of like a suiting poplin crepe and linen but again yeah for sure i can see it in holiday fabrics too buttons shoulder pads and then finished garment measurements we get all of these bust for the jacket and waist for the or waist and hip for the pants so lots of information to take in here about fit but the jacket has about five inches of ease in the bust um six inches of ease in the waist so pretty close fitting again just like the last one um a little less roomy in the top but just by a little bit and then your hip is what is that for three and a half inches of ease yeah so pretty close fitting in the hip too which i think that's what makes it kind of like so chic you know that it's all kind of close fitting now the the hip line on the jacket is going to be much wider like the finish on the jacket is i mean much wider than the pant obviously okay all right now we have the kamala harris look alike right from far away doesn't that look just like her um stylish and comfortable long sleeve knit top includes cross front detail with optional the neckline or scooped neckline v or scooped okay view a and b have three quarter sleeves all right so this is a fun take on kind of like a little i don't know it's almost like a cummerbund situation very flattering on nearly every single body type but especially our glasses um especially uh pairs anybody with like a naturally cinched in ways this is going to bring in an even more but those of you that have a fuller tummy it's going to camouflage it a little bit and i do like the option that you can just swap out v necks for scoop neck two three different sleeve links i'm assuming this would also look really cool underneath that um jacket i just showed yeah really close fitting through the back i'm actually kind of surprised to see it so pulled in like that even the sleeve looks a lot tighter so you see how there's all this like blousing in the front but in the back it is like very close fitting there's also a center back seam which is super interesting okay well that's that so you have your b your scoop and then two sleeve links actually so c and a no c and b are the exact same just different arms okay so for this it's going to be 35 stretch knits jersey interlock cotton knits rayon knits and then small to two x is the size range and then there's actually positive ease in the bust by roughly two and a half inches same for the waist but four inches so it's supposed to be a loose fitting top i don't that one picture is throwing me off so much because this makes it look like there's negative ease right there's not four inches of ease in that so i don't know if they pulled it tighter i don't know what they did there could be like a clip in the front we would never see yeah that's the only thing that's throwing me off i kind of expected it to have the same similar ease you know not loose fitting but sort of so far all of these patterns have been very butteric esk if you're feeling like this is a little bit basic b that's just butterics brand you know this is your like working woman this is your everyday woman this is not somebody who's into trends not somebody who's like doing anything super flashy she is just like your everyday woman so palmer plush came out with jeans and what's super interesting i think correct me if i'm wrong this might be the first palmer plush women's pattern like exclusively women's right those of you that have been sewing for a minute have we been doing palmer plush in women's i don't think so so this is great so for those of you that are unfamiliar palmer plush has their own fitting method where they use the pattern tissue and then on the tissue are the lines like if you need a full seat adjustment for example on the tissue are the lines that you would cut through in order to create that adjustment or alteration so really kind of fun if you want to dive in to fitting in a very like custom couture not just like thrown together kind of way palmer plush has a really fun system for doing that and the pattern instructions explain everything but so the fact they have that in women's now i think you guys should really explore this pattern and see if you can learn anything about your bodies that maybe you haven't been able to with just no instruction on fitting really this easygoing style of jeans includes side front pockets waistband with button and buttonhole closure back pockets belt carriers and front flies zipper closure a traditional gene view aga skin view a is skinny moderately dropped waist view b are high waisted straight leg jeans okay high waisted straight leg okay i mean i'm not certain about calling this high waisted i'm also not certain about what's happening here um seems like the crotch curve is not deep enough for her it would be an easy fix but again you know i bet palmer plush has a tough time with this modeling situation because this isn't their model this is a hired model so they just had to make the jeans and they didn't get to do the fitting thing on her so that's got to be frustrating since their whole model is based on fit but nonetheless other than that one little thing which is very easy to fix the front looks really good here's our illustration of like moderately low rise but is it just me or did those sit on her waist the same place as the other ladies the actual person um now we have the back which these pockets are not in the right place you can tell right they're too big for her first of all and secondly they're too far to the middle i think but we've got a few drag lines here a few drag lines here this is all because the inner thigh they're pointing to the problem right so the inner thigh is ill fitting and the calf is ill fitting um but again i'm sure if they were doing their own tissue fitting method on her they would would have been able to assess all of these problems all of that to say if you walked out the door in these jeans the way that they fit her you should be so proud they still look really good and fit really well considering and you probably have a limited a lot of the fit issues that you find in dressing rooms so definitely something to keep in mind there but there are line drawings and then back at the envelope they're going with lightweight denim stretch twill stretch cotton stretch cotton velvet so it does need to have a little bit of gift to it um and yeah your normal jeans notions your bust waist hip and then hip 45 44 so yeah only one inch of ease in this so that stretch is really going to matter in terms of comfort and fit and all of that all right here for some women's jeans though and then here is the straight size version let's take a look at these i think i know they made the same view so again they're calling this view high-waisted but honestly like that's her belly button high-waisted to me is way up here so i don't know about that um let's see if we can get some better pictures that aren't so dark pockets look a lot better on her for sure and yeah i mean fit is excuse me fit is better certainly through the calf yeah that's all we're going to get on fit for her the photo feels really dark on her but yeah they look obviously better on her it's easier to fit a less curvy person that's just facts okay so that is the mrs size and then now we have these trousers mrs contour band pants by palmer plush so same situation with you know getting the perfect fit um using the tissue bidding method that they developed this is h16 and 16 to 24 the perfect contour waist pant fit contour band pants feature flyfront zipper back darts trouser hook and eye closure view a or skinny fit pants and ankle length view b are fuller length i don't know what fuller or full length pants i can't read with side pockets okay so yeah your simple basic trouser this is a great block to start from and then from here you can make adjustments to add different types of pockets um these are sitting a little bit higher on the waist and those jeans were which i actually prefer okay here's the back yep now remember she's putting all of her weight into this back leg so the fact that we have this stuff here is some of that is due to this they are a looser fitting trouser kind of all around and you got your back darts the contour waist yeah simple straightforward but when you're when it comes to fitting um and getting like a good basic trouser you kind of want them to be as simple as possible all right back envelope stretch cotton gabberting cotton blend blend and blend lightweight denim silk chantone so maybe some stretch but it doesn't have to have any at all your zipper hook and eye snap stay tape and double stick tape so it sounds like they have a fun little method for maybe stitching the ditch double stick tape is the only thing i can think of that they would use for that similar to how we did for our sew along dress all right and then the hip on this one well the waist and the hip actually the waist has two inches of ease and the hip has well three and a half three and a half yeah so right on for a trouser okay next we have this little number and when i first saw this like on the banner at the like start of the video i thought i've never seen this before but i think another one of the brands possibly use this exact same fabric for another kind of like athleisure situation which is which is a choice because you know we so visually identify with these patterns um but i can't remember which one it was so i guess in a way it seemed familiar but not familiar enough that i was like oh yeah it's that one pattern um but this is a knit dress top skirt and pants now these are what i like to call the wardrobe patterns because you get all of these garments in one you can 1000 make like a capsule wardrobe out of it um at the at most at the very least you get four different patterns all in one so relaxed easy casual loungewear features knit dress and top with asymmetrical neckline long sleeves shoulder strap and tie belt view a has side slit skirt c is mid calf length and has elastic waistband pants d are long flowy and wide leg and have elastic waistband so loungey comfortable but more for like a woman you know so this fun little shoulder detail with the cutout i don't i didn't really realize we were still doing that but at the same time i don't really remember it going away either so it's kind of one of those trends it's kind of maybe in between still but you get this little tie situation you can have the tunic length you could obviously make it shorter you can make it longer into this length or even i mean any length really and then you have your skirt which you can adjust the length and you have the pants which you can make into shorts or whatever you want so the weight is that sewn in that's interesting okay so the belt is actually attached interesting so it looks like attached through the back and then at the side seems they become ties but through the back is actual like elastic yeah like that so the belt actually stays up and then yeah these are our line drawings they're not showing that on the back though so now i'm confused that definitely looks like it's sewn in right maybe not maybe the belt has elastic in it some things up with that belt maybe it's not attached like a casing but did there's also something else in there let's see if the notions explain it any further yeah one and a half yards of one inch elastic for c and d yeah that's just the i don't know what's up with that belt seems like either something's being left off either the line drawing or the notions list but again moderate stretch knits 35 cross grain jersey interlock cotton and rayon knits and body measurements are going to be pretty close to the same as our finished garment measurements because this is a knit garment but the pants and skirt might be a little bit wider but super cute little fitted dress i think i'm not so sure that i would wear the tunic but i do love it as a dress especially in like a neutral color you know okay and if you can hear landscaping going on in the back you're correct because it never fails anytime i'm ready to do a video they decide that they are going to cut the grass outside so i apologize about that but this is a little vintage dress and jacket semi fitted dress three inches below mid knee that is very specific or evening length with purchase lace trim excuse me ribbon shoulder straps and ribbon belt has shaped front upper edge i think that means sweetheart neckline back elasticized upper edge front pin tux and elasticized waistband or waistline view b has hemline pin tux oh hemline pin tux loose fitting online jacket with purchase lace trim and ribbon belt has cardigan neckline and full link tapered sleeves gathered at a cap okay so a is the dress and b is the what are they calling it online jacket 6 to 14 and then 16 to 24 on the sizing this is from the 80s so yeah you have this kind of sweetheart neckline here your vertical pin tux here this looks like oh is that okay so oh okay i get it so this is your little dress and you have the purchased ribbon for the tie and then you can make the little jacket either long or short and wear it over the dress is this a nightgown it's always so confusing and then you can also make it long so there yeah i don't know is that a nightgown there's elastic in the back here too it doesn't say that it is but that pink satiny imagery makes me feel like maybe it is broadcloth gauze of wall shally batiste pinkerchief linen crepe de sheen pongee wow i haven't seen pongee on a list in a minute that's funny okay uh ribbon trim elastic all of this no there were two different size ranges that's right okay body measurement versus garment six and a half inches of ease in the bust although i feel like that's well that might be the same for the jacket and the oh no a b a b so jacket c they're not giving us any finished measurements for okay and the waist on a and b is elastic anyways so this is all that really matters so yeah six and a half inches in the bust pretty roomy um it doesn't say yeah it doesn't say that it's a nightgown but i don't know i'm just getting nightgown vibes from this art here okay now we have the family jacket oh shack it's for everyone you get a shack it dad you get a shack it daughter son here's your shack it and mommy's got a shack it too button front family size shack it has pointed collar long sleeves with single button cuffs lap patch pockets back yuck with pleat jacket has curved restraint hem and length variations look how happy we are just your quintessential american family okay so shack it wise yeah pretty much spot on that's a shack it nothing too special or remarkable about it excellent job on the print matching here's a little sherpa one adorable here's mom's so mom's bottom button is a little bit funky they might have just sewed the button on a little too high there's the kiddos there's the back so it does have a yoke and a back pleat and then the sleeves also pleat into a cop as well yep yep it's a shack it guys it's a shack it all right wool blend splannel corduroy denim sherpa twill yep notions yep and then here's your sizing finish garment measurements for a woman or teen slash adult so woman or a man about 10 inches of ease in the bust and 15 in the waist and then probably a little bit less in the hip maybe eight ish or so that's just me guessing but um okay yeah so family shack it's all right cool then we have a little teen what are they calling it oh knit top for a girl which we don't I don't cover the kids clothes because we talk a lot about fit here and I don't know that just feels weird um plus designs for little girls are a little bit different than adults anyways but we also have this little girl she's precious and a little baby one okay so for in terms of adults there's your butteric fall nothing very overwhelming here but that's just how butteric is you're going to be able to get some good basics maybe a little bit of a twist but nothing too crazy and really focus on fit or if you have like a really fabulous fabric butteric is also great for that so I'd love to know what you guys think leave a comment in the comment section below and let me know otherwise that's going to do it for me today y'all I will see you all very soon bye