• Climbing Contamine Mazeaud 15th July 2011

    3,262 views 5 years ago
    Mixed alpine climbing on Triangle du Tacul near Mont Blanc on our annual trip to the Alps. More info and photos at http://www.facebook.com/med... Show less
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  • Winter Mountain Trilogy Play all

    Filmed around March 1987 the solo winter ascent by Christophe Profit of the three classic north faces in the Alps. The Grande Jorrasses, Eiger and the Matterhorn (Cervin) north faces all climbed in under 48 hours ...! The summer of 1985 was the year in which he enchained the trilogy of North Faces the Eiger, Matterhorn and Grandes Jorasses (up the Linceul), in just 24 hours. He later repeated this feat in winter in uder 48 hours (March 1987) by climbing the Croz Spur on the Grandes Jorasses, the Heckmair route on the Eiger North Face and the Schmid route on the Matterhorn solo in winter in a record 42 hours.
    Sadly now no longer available this documentary film has been my motivation and climbing inspiration over the past 20 odd years and was salvaged from some old VHS video tape onto DVD before being split and uploaded onto YouTube.
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  • Inaccessible Pinnacle (In Pinn) and the Cuillin ridge Play all

    The UK's hardest mountain summit, the Inaccessible Pinnacle (In Pin or In Pinn), Sgurr Dearg on 'The Ridge' isle of Skye in Scotland.
    This sensational moderate climb up the east ridge a knife edge fin of rock has good holds but exceptional exposure... It was first climbed by the Pilkindon brothers in 1880. It is the hardest Munro summit to tick for the average mountain walker. To gain the top requires rock climbing skills, ropes, calm weather, a good head for heights and finally an abseil to get back down again!
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  • Crampons & Mountaineering Boots Play all

    A few short videos for our Scottish Winter Skills, Winter Mountaineering and Ice Climbing courses on choosing suitable four season boots for crampon fitting.

    For Boot and Crampon compatibility see below (B for boots and C for Crampons):

    B0 - Very soft lightweight boots, shoes, trainers or slippers that are not suitable for crampons!!

    B1 - These are sturdy but flexible Trekking boots which will take a C1 flexible walking crampon.

    B2 - Semi-rigid mountain boots suitable for mountaineering and glacier approaches and classic Alpinism. These boots are often suitable for easy graded snow gullies & ridges and can be used with C1 and C2 crampons. (Examples include Scarpa Mantas)

    B3: Are fully stiffened technical boots for harder Scottish winter, Alpine and Greater Ranges climbing. These specialised boots are suitable for general mountaineering, ice climbing and mixed climbing, although usually less comfortable for walking in! They are normally fully rigid and having a specialised sole for fitting quick-fit step-in crampons.
    Fully Stiffened B3 boots can be used with all types of crampons such as C1, C2 and C3. (Examples include: Scarpa Guides, Jorasses and Freney's)

    Apart from trying to bend the boots against a hard surface, a quick stiffness test for boots is to wear them and to stand with just the toes on an sharp edge or step. With fully rigid B3 & B2 boots and your foot muscles relaxed, only one or two cm will be required. If you need much more than this then boots are probably too soft for serious crampon use.

    C1: Flexible crampons come with either straps or moulded heel and toe cradles and should have a flexible adjustment bar (Examples include: Grivel G10)

    C2 - Semi-rigid crampons are often fitted with a plastic toe cradle and quick-fit heel lever binding. The plastic toe bale (or French toe ring) is much more secure compared to a wire toe bale and can be used on boots with badly worn toe grooves. The adjustment bar is usually hinged in the middle. This type of crampon is the most useful as they can be used for hillwalking, Alpine Mountaineering and Winter Climbing (Examples include: Petzl Vasak, Grivel 'Air Tech', G12 and G14)

    C3 - Fully-rigid crampons normally come with a wire toe bale and quick-fit heel lever binding. With the wire toe bale it is essential that the boots have a good unworn toe groove. True rigid crampons are completely rigid although a few so called rigid crampons aren't and many are actually C2's! (Examples include: Grivel Rambo's)

    Cairngorm Guides & Talisman Mountaineering Winter Skills course details can be found at http://www.talisman-activities.co.uk/winter/winter_mounta... and on http://www.cairngorm-guides.co.uk
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