 All right, today we're back with a brand new repair video. Today we're working on a Sony PVM 1342Q, I believe. And it is one of the older versions of a Sony PVM. So we're going to start and go ahead and look at the monitor to begin with. This one came from Patreon member Adrian. He actually never saw this monitor power up. So I kind of had to have a discussion with him where when you don't have one that will power on at all, you never really know what you're getting into simply because you don't know the exact condition even if you get it finally powered on if it will actually look good. And this one is from the late 80s, 1989. It does, however, support RGB. And it has a couple of BNC inputs for video, composite video, and a single S video input. So just to start things off, let's see what happens. And like Adrian said, we have no power at all, no response when I plug in this PVM and try to give it just a simple power button test. So we're definitely going to have to get inside of this PVM. And it is a standard situation of just removing the screws and getting inside there and working within the internals on this CRT. So again, if you have one that's not going to power on like this, you're definitely going to have to get inside. And this is how you get into pretty much most of them. There are four screws on the back generally and then three screws on each side. So once you've removed these screws from the shell, you can slide this shell off. And sometimes you'll have to work around the cables that are inside. And it's like this one's probably not been opened since it was put together in 1989 because it's just filled with an incredible amount of dirt and dust and grime. Something else to notice is the flybacks actually epoxied into place on this monitor, which is something they did do in the 80s. But it makes it more difficult to service because I don't want to go in and try to take a knife and cut that epoxy away really next to the anode cap and most likely would damage some of that rubber on the anode cap itself. So just to take a look inside here to begin with, we're gonna jump over to the F board, which says right on the back of it that it is our power supply board. And this is most likely where our power problem is originating from. There's more than likely some components that have gone bad on this board. And so if you have a spare power board, then you might be lucky enough to just swap it out. But we don't have that. So we're gonna have to try to troubleshoot in this exact power supply unit, which one of these components has actually failed and gone bad. There might be multiple components that we'll need to check and test out and see if they've gone bad because again, this power supply is not producing really any kind of power whatsoever. Now the first thing I did notice when I inspected it was this capacitor next to this transformer. It is slightly bulged and there appears to be some electrolytic fluid kind of leaking from the base of it. If you look closely at the bottom of the pictures there, you'll notice there is some electrolytic fluid coming out of there and it definitely feels a little bulged. I'm also gonna check out two other capacitors for sure on this board because I'm concerned about them too. They're in the same area of high heat as the other capacitor that's definitely failed. So we'll replace that and hopefully be able to test this board. And maybe we can get a signal out of it and get some power back in and see if we can get it to power up. So let's start by just replacing that capacitor and then the other two capacitors. So what you're gonna do is take your power supply out of the housing and the bracket that holds it into place on your PVM. I'll be using my HACCO FR-301 and I like to set it to just about 2.2 on the dial. I guess you'd say it goes up to like four. So that should be right around 750 degrees and that's fair in height. You just remove those three capacitors. And this one is again the underside of that capacitor. Here's some closer pictures and you can tell it's definitely shot or it's blown out, you know, electrolytic fluid definitely failed. And on closer inspection on the board itself there is a bit of electrolytic fluid that is leaked and crusted on the actual board. Now thankfully we can get in here with just some alcohol pads and kind of rub that area and get rid of that residue and that will be fine but it just shows you that this capacitor was definitely not good anymore. So we'll go ahead and replace that and the other two capacitors with just fresh new capacitors. I'm using Nishikon capacitors. Most of the time you can find the values for these caps in your service manual. Now I did just simply go to my back stock of caps and referenced those with the ones I'd pulled and I had replacements here in my shop so I was able to install three good capacitors and we'll see after we get done soldering these back into the board if we can run a test and we'll see if that will actually give us some power on our CRT. Now that our capacitors are complete let's put it back in the bracket and then we'll go back and hook this up to our CRT and see if we can get maybe a power signal or anything to change from what we'd seen originally. Then this one, again, the Sony went with this design of putting this power supply board on the side of the monitors and pretty much kept that design throughout till it got to about the L series. So kept that design for well over a decade. We still get nothing. You will notice on the screen at the bottom there's a red light that is blinking so we are getting well a little bit different something's trying to get through to that system but we're still not getting full power so back to our power supply again and there's gonna be some other parts in here I wanna try and change because most likely something else is damaged I'm gonna start with these two regulators up here on this heat sink and thankfully I have a spare part board for this so I have those in back stock, those exact parts. I also have a hot which is the chip right next to the fly back transformer right there on the heat sink on the main board. I'm gonna go ahead and replace those three or now we're gonna power test our monitor again and upon power testing it we are getting more than what we had gotten before we're getting light up on all the different types of video inputs and the power light is coming on but I'm still not getting any signal from the CRT tube itself and so there's still something going on here but we are making some progress and I just wanna remind everybody this is a good lesson to never give up on these repairs you gotta sometimes just gotta push through some of this stuff. Again I went back and I looked at our power supply and one of the things you'll notice on this board is a fuse. Now it's obvious that this fuse is good because you can see that internally it's got glass you know it's a replaceable fuse you can also check it for continuity which I did with my multimeter but I once I researched it some more there is a secondary fuse that's soldered into the board that just kind of looks like a diode it's F602. So upon further inspection I actually went in and used my multimeter to test for continuity and there was no continuity in the fuse. Here's a look at the actual fuse. Thankfully I had a second fuse to pull from this extra board that you just saw. I'm thinking that this fuse is probably the major issue now with the reason that this PVM is not starting so let's replace the fuse give it one more power supply as chance and test and then we notice right away I'm getting some life here on the screen and we've got power to the tube so we finally solved the riddle and I was able to repair that power supply issue now everything seems to be working in order one of the first things I definitely need to do is do a little adjustment on the G2 voltage because it was turned up kind of high but it actually looks pretty darn good. I'm gonna go through now and definitely give it a thorough cleaning and we will also do some adjustment on it now that it works because there is some obvious bowing on the screens on the sides. I also did notice some slight screen burn on this tube. It wasn't enough to really get you concerned but there's definitely an issue with some screen burn on the tube if you look closely enough. So here we are just going through and dusting the rest of the monitor. I did remove that power supply board just to go through and get a good thorough cleaning on the back here. And again, lots of dust and buildup but that's easy to get out of the way with a good nice clean brush and an air compressor and then I'll come in and use just a bit of rubbing alcohol on a paper towel and rub off a lot of the buildup dirt and soot on some of the cabling as well as like the fly back itself and the cap and just try to recondition a lot of those parts and make sure that you know they don't get brittle because of buildup heat. I mean buildup residue and dust that ultimately does increase the temperature on these components and this one it's already over 30 years old and so I don't want to try to you know I want to try to extend the life as long as possible that's why it does actually help to clean a lot of this stuff out of here thoroughly. One of the last things I'd like to do is clean up that CRT tube right there on the electron guns and get rid of a lot of that dirt and buildup residue, one more blast here from our air compressor and we'll be ready to move on to our next step which will just be final calibration and the shell needs to be placed back on here but just one click look you can tell just how much more spectacular and clean it is inside. Adjustments are made in the back of the PVM kind of next to the fly back right behind it. You'll notice there are quite a few potentiometers and these all do control our screen geometry. Most of them are labeled and you can kind of see the labeling but some of the labeling is blocked off and the best thing to do is just get in there with a screwdriver and use either a mirror or try to sit in front of the PVM and twist your screwdriver to make adjustments on there. Now before I make those adjustments our screen actually is tilted a little bit so I'm gonna have to make a manual yolk adjustment here. Now this is something again you have to do while the monitor is pretty much running so I'm not gonna advise that you really do this just watch me do it but I'm gonna loosen the yolk ring here and then I'm gonna twist this yolk a little bit just to kind of loosely break it free from the tube and then you can see on the screen how it tilts back and forth and the goal here is just to try to line it up to where all four corners are pretty much parallel and even as at least as even as possible. You may notice that one corner bows slightly sometimes and that is pretty normal. This one was able to line up pretty well and then once you get that set you can go back and retighten that screw on the back of the deflection yolk and that way the yolk will be set and you won't have to worry about that again. Now don't over tighten it because you could actually damage your tube and I'd hate to see that happen or the yolk that plastic can crack if you put too much pressure on that screw but once it's fastened it should be good to go and then you're ready to make your adjustments first your calibration adjustments and then you can go in and try to do things like focus and other convergence adjustments. You can make those by adjusting those potentiometers on the neckboard itself but again these geometry calibrations are simply gonna be run through using those potentiometers on the back of your PVM on the deflection board itself. This monitor does not have the convenience of a service menu that's built into the monitor. That really wasn't a technology at a time. It wasn't until the preceding monitor line which would have been the 50 series came out that she actually started to get a service menu on the Sony's as far as the PVMs are concerned. Now I'm gonna go through and just continue to make adjustments on the screen. There is a bit of a purity issue on this tube so that generally is from my area in my shop where I have a funky bit of magnetism that can sometimes show up on certain CRTs. It doesn't show up on all of them but it does affect them sometimes and if that happens to you a good tip is to just turn your screen a different direction and sometimes you can just get rid of that directionally. It's fully reassembled and it's ready for a final test here. I've got RGB hooked up through a RGB modded NES top loader and again, Contra looks great. We've got a wonderful looking screen and everything turned out well. And the most important thing I can say about this repair is don't get overwhelmed, kind of just take your time and sometimes the first repair isn't always gonna fix everything. You could see that we had multiple components that go bad. There is something else I wanted to mention. This particular monitor does have a horizontal frequency potentiometer on the main chassis and I found out that if you turn that horizontal frequency potentiometer too much you can actually short out one of the regulators on the main chassis board there. The power line is directly connected and that too can cause power issues. And that wasn't a problem with this monitor as other regulators had failed as well as the capacitor and the fuse but that's just something to think about that if you go into a monitor like this and you start turning things just don't mess with the ones that say frequency usually. Those ones need to be kind of left as is because again, that one controls voltage and you can actually fry out your monitor. Well, that's it for today's episode. Again, I wanna thank Adrian for letting me take a look at his monitors and getting them repaired and I wanna thank you for watching. Please leave me a thumbs up and definitely a comment if you have any comments or questions about today's episode and the specific CRT repair and remember to hang in there and never really give up because you never know, you might just be able to save an old monitor from ending up in the trash heap. But I'm Steve, I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content.