 Chapter 24. An Unpleasant Adventure When Sunday comes, Ginny and I always wear our best clothes, neither sewing, studying, nor doing any work. But we read Bible stories, learn verses, look at pictures, and keep the big music box going a good share of the time. Sometimes if it is bright and warm, I take the two children out for a ride, and Ginny likes to call upon her grandmother. The long front porch of the hotel has been opened again, the sides having been taken off, and the ice and snow cut away from the steps, so the little ones often play upon the porch and the sun for an hour or two. There are now a number of little puppies to be fed and brought up, some of them of pure Eskimo breed, and Charlie likes to frolic with them by the hour. They are very cunning, especially when Molly puts a little harness, which she has made upon each one, making them pull the sticks of wood she fastens behind in order to teach them to haul a load. Molly is frequently gone for two days hunting, and if she does not find what she looks for the first day, she sleeps upon her sled a few hours rolled in her furs, then rises and mushes on again. Far and near she is known and respected, and the name of Molly in this country is the synonym of all that is brave, true, and womanly, hunting and trapping being for an Eskimo woman some of the most legitimate of pursuits. The name of Angashiak, which means a leader of women in her native tongue, was given her by her parents as those who know her acknowledge. In severe contrast to the character of Molly is Polly, who has developed an insane jealousy of me on the children's account and who never loses an opportunity to annoy and insult me, much to my surprise. One day she will hide my books, pour soup over my dress in the kitchen, slam the door in my face, and make jeering remarks in Eskimo, causing the native boys to giggle. And worst of all, telling Charlie in her language that I will kill and eat him, thus making him scream when I attempt to wash or dress him. However, there is another and principal reason for her ill treatment of me, which is far reaching, for Polly and Sim are cronies, and the girl does what he tells her to do, and that is to torment me as much as possible. For these reasons and others, I decided some time ago to carry my meals into the living room on a tray when I give the children theirs, especially when Molly is away. And the rough element does not feel the restraint of her presence at table. There are no other white women in the house, unless perhaps one comes in from the trail with the men for a day. And these are, as a rule, not the kind of women to inspire the respect of anyone. So I spread Charlie's and my food upon a small table, and Ginny's on her own tray, for after each little outing, she is strapped and weighted down in bed as before. And we would be very happy if it were not for Polly, Sim, and a few other tufts in the hotel and vicinity. Each day I manage, when Ginny is busy with Apoc's baby, Oh Duck Dock, the deaf girl, grandmother, and her other numerous Eskimo friends, to slip away and run out for a little fresh air and into the mission for a few minutes. Then I sit down at the organ for a while or hear of those coming and going on the trails, perhaps climbing the hill behind the mission for more exercise, before going back to Ginny. The first week in April has been pleasant and sunny for the most of the time. But last night, the eighth of the month, the thermometer, with a high wind, fell to 30 degrees below zero, and froze ice two inches thick in my room upstairs. Mr. L and B have returned from their Koyuk trip, having staked one creek upon which they found colors, and which they were informed by natives was a gold-bearing creek. Their supply of grub would not allow them to remain longer. They have staked a claim for me with the others. Number fourteen above discovery is mine, but they do not give out the name of the creek until they have been up there and staked another stream near the first one. When I get my papers recorded, I shall feel quite proud of this, my best claim, perhaps, so far. And I am thankful and quite happy. Except for the disagreeable features of hotel life, which I am always hoping will be soon changed. So long, however, as the deadly liquor is sold in almost every store and cabin, the cause of disturbances will remain, and men's active brains, continually fired with poison as they are, will concoct schemes diabolical enough to shame a Mephistopheles. Today, after due deliberation regarding the matter, I asked B, on the aside, if he would lend me a revolver. He gave me a quick and searching look. Do you want it loaded? He asked. Yes, please, and I will call after supper for it, said I in a low tone while going out the door. Early this morning, putting on my furs and carrying a small shoebox under my arm, I ran over to the mission. In the hall I was met by B, to whom I handed the box. He took it quietly and went directly to his room, reappearing in a moment and handing it back to me, saying significantly as he did so, three doses of that are better than one, if any are needed. Which remark I understood without further explanation? I have brought the box to my room and have placed it under the head of my cot upon the floor, where, in case of emergency, it may be of service. It is not a pretty plaything and will not be used as such by me, but I shall feel safer to know it is near at hand. Little did I know when I selected my room the day Molly brought me upstairs, that on the other side of the board partition slept the man who had killed another in the early winter. And though the murderer has so far never molested me in any way, still he sometimes gets what they call crazy drunk and is as liable to kill some other as he was to kill the first, then too, then board walls have ears. And I have heard the mutterings and threats of these wretches for a number of weeks. I have been exceedingly sorry for a month past to see the preparations my friends, the Swedish women in the mission, are making to go to Nome. And now they expect to start tomorrow. They must be in town to put everything in readiness for the opening of the star when the first steamers arrive from the outside. The weather is bright and pretty cold today, making the trails good, but in a thaw they are bad and are now liable to break up at any time. Quite a party will go to Nome, Mr. L, M, and others, and they will travel with dogs. I dread to see my Swedish friends, the only white women in this camp with whom I can be friendly, leave Cinec, for I shall then be more alone than ever. If this tiresome ice in the bay would only move out so the boats could get in, we should have others. But there's no telling when that will be. Many are now betting on the breaking up of the ice, and all hope it will be very soon. May 2nd. My Swedish friends left very early today for Nome, and only Miss L from the home is there, sweeping out the place. But B and the visiting preacher will go with her to the home today, closing the hospitable doors of the mission for a time. This evening they held a meeting for the natives in camp, and I attended. But it seemed like a funeral without the friends now mushing on the Nome trail. A woman has come to live at Mellies and is a study in beaver coat, dyed brown hair, which should be gray according to her age, and with, it is reported, a bank account of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars after having lived in Alaska nearly five years. She has called a good stampeter, has a pleasant smiling face, but is usually designated notorious. May 10th. Molly went out early with Mookie, her dog team and guns, to escort Aggie Tuck, Alice, and Poonie Chara, with their mother who is Molly's aunt, to their new hunting camp in the mountains. At seven in the evening, Molly returned with wet feet. Tomorrow she will take a net and some other things they have forgotten. They have gone to take their annual spring vacation and hunt gray squirrels for a month, living in a hut in the meantime. The weather is warm and spring-like. May 13th. The captain has been obliged to go to Nome on business, weak and ill though he is, and has been for months. It did not seem to me that he could live through the winter, and he is far too weak to take this long trip over the trail, but he says he is obliged to go and will return at the earliest possible moment. He has taken Fred, the Russian boy, and a team of nine dogs, leaving after supper and intending to travel night and day as we now have no darkness. The dissipated men around camp, idle and drunken most of the time, with nothing to occupy their attention after the long, tedious winter, still spend their hours in gossiping, swearing, drinking, and gambling, knowing no day and no night, but making both hideous to those around them. As a destroyer of man's self-respect, independence, and dignity, there is nothing to compare with the accursed liquor. There are numbers of instances in camp proving the truth of this statement. There is the English clergyman's tall and handsome son, well educated, musical, and of agreeable manners, fitted to grace the best society. But liquor is to blame for his present condition, which is about as low as man can sink. It is ten in the evening, and I am in my little room upstairs, the only white woman in the camp except Mellie and two like her. Downstairs in the bar room the men are singing, first coon songs, and then church hymns, with all the drunken energy they can muster. The crash of broken glass, angry oaths, and the slamming of doors reaches my ears so frequently as to cause little surprise. The French cooks in the kitchen adding their share to the disturbance. In a distant part of the hotel lies the little sick girl, her cot rolled each night close to the bedside of her mother, who tries to soothe her in her pain. Mollie and the wicked little Eskimo servant being the only women besides myself in the house. The noise and confusion increases downstairs, and I shall sleep little tonight. I will look at my revolver and see that its contents have not been removed. May fifteenth. Here I am alone with the little children, a bad native girl, and a gang of the worst men in Alaska, Mollie having gone out hunting. At midnight, Sim, Mellie, and several others left for a dance at White Mountain. But it was two o'clock in the morning before the house was quiet. While I lay perfectly still and trying to sleep, a man's stealthy footstep passed my door. He walked in his stocking feet. Bare floors and walls echo the slightest sound, and my ears are keen. Was it a friend? Or foe? What was this object? My heart beat with a heavy thud, but I remembered the loaded revolver under my bed and thanked God for it. After a long time I slipped a fitful uneasy sleep for an hour, and dressed myself as usual at half past six o'clock, feeling badly for want of needed sleep. Afterwards I washed, dressed, and fed the children, amusing and entertaining them in my accustomed way. Aggie Tuck's house being closed, little Charlie is kept here all the time, Holly looking after him nights. A saloon keeper named Fitz, villainous in reality as well as in looks, is hanging around continually, wearing the blackest of looks at everyone, having been in trouble nearly all winter, and closing out his saloon a few weeks ago. A big Dutchman, burly as a blacksmith and well-soaked and whiskey, lounges about in blue denim and skull cap, winking his bleared eyes at Polly, and swearing soundly at his native wife when she steps inside the doors to look after him. All went well for a while today after Molly's leaving, Ginny coaxing to be carried to her grandmother's for a visit, to which I consented, until Charlie and I sat down to supper, which I had spread as is my habit in the living room. During the day, I had turned matters well over in mind, and decided, with Molly's advice, to sleep in her bed alongside of Ginny's cot, and to have grandmother stay with us, locking the doors of the rooms as they should be. To my consternation, when I chanced to look for the keys in the doors, there were none, showing plainly that they had been removed. This looked like a trap. There was nothing to do, much as I disliked it, but to ask for the keys, as I would never spend the night in the house without them. Soon afterward the steward entered, and I very calmly and politely asked for the door keys of the two rooms, saying that I would spend the night with Ginny. With cool insolence, he replied that he would lock them himself. Again, the trap. I made no reply. I saw that he had been drinking, that he was not himself, and that it was useless to argue with him. After waiting for an answer and getting none, the man went out carelessly, leaving the door ajar behind him. At that moment the supper bell rang, and he, with others, sat down to the table. She wants the keys to the door, she says. Drawed the man I had spoken with regarding them. What did you tell her? demanded one of the Ruffians. I told her I would lock the doors myself, said the fellow. What does she want of the keys? Who is she afraid of? Must be you, bub. Taint me, said one. You're a liar, shouted bub. It's the genial dispenser of booze here beside me she's afraid of. I'll cedar her after supper, you bet, shouted an official voice at which I shuttered. A general hubbub now ensued. Among others I could distinguish the word Black Snake Whip, but I had heard enough. I was planning as I listened. Leaning forward I kissed the little child beside me and said softly, eat all your supper, dear, and then go to Polly. Sully is going to Grandma's. Throwing a light wrap over my head I ran out of the front door and around the west end of the house, careful not to pass the dining room windows where the men would see me, and hastened to Grandmother's cabin, knowing that I should there find Jenny. Grandmother lived alone except for Oduck Dock, the deaf girl, and they must give me shelter for the night. Here I found Jenny quite happy with her deaf friend sitting on the edge of the bed beside her while her grandmother was busy with her work. In a few words I explained to the old woman the situation, and I was made welcome, Jenny being pleased to remain in the cabin all night. I knew Polly would put Charlie to bed when the time came, and the boy was safe enough where he was. I did not believe the gang would disturb me in Grandmother's cabin, but I feared they would loot my room in my absence. Here Jenny could assist me. I now asked her to have Oduck Dock go out for the native named Koki and bring him to me, which she did, the deaf girl understanding by the motion of the child's lips what was being said. Oduck Dock then drew on her parky and went out. Koki, said I when the native had entered the room a few minutes later and closed the door behind him, would you go to my room, number three in the hotel, and get some things for me? Yes, was the laconic reply of the man. Here is the key of the door. Between the mattresses of the bed you will find two books, and in the shoebox on the floor there is a revolver. Bring them to me under your parky so no one shall see what you have. Take this little key, lock my trunk, and be sure you fasten the door behind you. You won't forget. All right, I know forget. And Koki grinned and went out. He did not forget. In about twenty minutes he returned, bringing the keys, revolver, and diaries which I had kept hidden for fear the lawless fellows might find and destroy them. I now felt much relieved. I did not think the gang would come to the cabin, but in case they did, there was the revolver. And Grandmother's two doors had locks, which if not the very strongest, were better than none, and I fastened them immediately after Koki's departure. May 18th. The night I slept in Grandmother's cabin with Jenny passed quietly for us. I slept in my clothes and mucklucks, an old quilt and fur parky on some boards being my bed. Though Grandmother finally gave me a double blanket for covering when I asked for it. It was long past midnight before we slept. The child was restless and urged her grandmother to tell her Eskimo stories. Oh, Duck-Duck slept heavily, unconscious of all around her. My own senses were on the alert. I listened intently to catch every sound. But we were too far away from the hotel to hear the carousel that I well knew was there in progress. The mushers from the dance were hourly expected home, and would then add their part to the midnight orgies. The low droning of the old Eskimo woman, telling her tales of the Inuits, of the polar bear, the seal and the walrus, of the birds, their habits and nestlings. This was the only sound I heard. After a time the other slept and I went to the window and looked out. At my right only a stone's throw away was the mission. Its windows and doors all fastened and its occupants gone. I felt a heart-sinking sensation as I thought of the friends who were there lately. Across the way was the old school house, and which were the musician, his partner and the deaf man, who had been bitten by the mad dog. They were within calling distance, and for that I felt thankful. I had dreaded the night in the cabin for fear that I should suffer for fresh air. But seeing a broken pane of glass into which some cloth had been stuffed, I removed the ladder and allowed the pure air to enter. Of course the place was synod with seal oil, but Grandmother's cabin was comparatively tidy and clean. Next morning, when we knew that breakfast was over, we went in a body to the hotel, Grandmother carrying Ginny on her back, according to Eskimo Custom. Some of the men were still sleeping off their dissipation of the night before. Nothing was said about our remaining away, and the Eskimo women spent the day with us. Others also came, called quietly in to see Ginny, and remained to the meals I was glad to give them for their company. When six o'clock arrived, and still we saw nothing of Molly, I felt anxious. If she did not return, it meant another night in the native hut for us. Eight, nine, ten o'clock. Thank God, she had come at last. I could have hugged her for joy. She had nearly one hundred ptarmigan, enough to last till the captain came home and would not leave us again alone. Later, the captain returned from Nome, having made the trip of eighty-five miles and back by dog team in four days and nights, a very quick trip indeed. The tufts have subsided and are on their good behavior for the present, at least, fearing what the captain will say and do when their last doings are reported. But I understand that most of them are mortally offended at my remaining at Grandmother's, as no one takes offense so easily as a rogue when his honesty is doubted. End of Chapter 24 Chapter 25 of A Woman Who Went to Alaska by May Kellogg Sullivan This LibriVox recording is in the public domain. This recording by Karen Cummins. Chapter 25 Stones and Dynamite The last week of May has finally come, and with it, real spring weather. The children play out in the sand heap on the south side of the house for hours together, enjoying the warm sunshine and pleasant air. The little girl clothed from head to foot in furs. Never has a springtime been so welcome to me, perhaps because in striking contrast to the long cold winter through which we have just passed. From the hillside behind the mission, the snow is slowly disappearing. First from the most exposed spots and rocks, the gullies keeping their drifts and ice longer. Mosses are everywhere, peeping cheerfully up at me in all their tents of gorgeous green, some that I found recently being tipped with the daintiest of little red cups. This, with other treasures, I brought in my basket to Jenny when I returned from my daily walk upon the hill, and together we studied them closely under the magnifying glass. To examine the treasures brought in by Molly, however, we needed no glass. They are sandpipers, ptarmigan, squirrels, and occasionally a wild goose, shot perhaps in the act of flying over the hunter's head, as these birds are now often seen and heard going north. In the evening I see from my window the neighboring Eskimo children playing with their sleds, and sometimes they light a bonfire, shouting and chattering in their own unique way. All mushers now travel at night when the trail is frozen, as it is too soft in the daytime, and the glare from the sun often causes snow blindness. Then too, there is water on the ice in places, which we are glad to see, and pools of the same are standing around the mission and schoolhouse. I can no longer go out in my mucklucks, but must wear my long rubber boots and short skirts. Today I went out for an hour, walking to Cinec Creek over the tundra, from which the snow has almost disappeared, and returned by the hilltop path. The tundra was beautiful with mosses, birds were singing, and the rushing and roaring of the creek waters fairly made my head swim. They were such unusual sounds. The water was cutting a channel in the sands where it empties into the bay. Here it was flowing over the ice, helping to loosen the edge, and allow it to drift out to sea. There is little change in the manners and dispositions of the rough men in camp. There are the same things with which to contend day after day. The same annoyances and trials to endure, with new ones in addition quite frequently. June has come at last, and all the world should be happy. But alas, there is always some worm in the bud to do the blasting. This morning, about three o'clock, I was awakened by the sound of drunken voices outside my window, followed by stones hurled against the side of the house. Quickly rising, I cautiously peeped out from behind the curtain, but was not surprised at what I saw. There, about a hundred feet away, were four men, all well known to me as members of the gang, and all in the most advanced stages of intoxication. On the step of a neighboring cabin sat the murderer, Ford, hugging in a maudlin way a big black bottle. On the ground in the dirt, there rolled two young men, the Englishmen underneath, and big bub over him. Sim, the leader, had aimed four stones at my window, but missed it, and felt the need of more stimulant, so he took the bottle from Ford, carried it to the lumber pile a few feet away, sat down, put it to his lips, and drank heavily. Again, and again, he tipped up the bottle while he drank, but finally threw it away empty. Then, with much exertion, he stooped to pick up a stone. He was aiming at my window. I dodged into a corner, but the box washstand stood partly in my way. Would he hit his mark? I did not believe it. He was too drunk. Came the stone against the house. I waited. Another followed. In the meantime, the other men had paid no attention to him as Ford was watching the two tumblers, the lumber pile being between them and Sim, and the three started for the front door around the south side of the house. Sim followed them. I now hoped he would forget his stone throwing. When they were all out of sight, I breathed more freely. Surely now the trouble was over, I thought, and I threw off my fur coat which I had hastily pulled on over my wrapper, crept into bed and covered my head with the blankets. I now thought quickly. Even if Sim should forget to throw more stones, would he not soon come upstairs and perhaps give me more trouble? Would it not be better to dress myself and be prepared for any emergency? I was hurriedly deliberating upon the matter. My head still covered with the blankets. When there was a loud crash and shivered glass covered the floor and the bed clothes. Instantly throwing the ladder back, I looked around me. I could see no stone, and I had heard none fall upon the floor, but it must be there somewhere. I now stepped carefully out of bed in order to avoid the glass. My feet already in knit wool slippers with thick warm soles. And again looked out. There was no one to be seen. Sim had done his dastardly work and gone indoors. With this in it, my teeth shattered, and I felt cold. I must keep my nerve, however, and I did so, dressing myself carefully even to my stout shoes which I laced up in front and tied. Then I drew on my fur coat and sat down to wait. Below the four men were poking around in the kitchen, trying to find something to eat or drink. It was not long before I heard them coming upstairs and all tumbled into the next room which was occupied by Ford. If they came to molest me further, there was yet one way of escape which I would try before using my revolver. The weapon I did not want to use unless driven to it. There was the staging outside my window which had never been removed since the house was built the year before. I could very easily step out upon it and walk to the end of the house, but then I must either jump or remain for there was no ladder. This staging was perhaps twenty feet from the ground and the ladder frozen. To slide down a post would tear my hands fearfully. I had not long to wait. To go peaceably to bed seemed to be the last thing these men thought of and one picked up a gun which for hunting purposes every man in the house kept close at hand. I say now, bub, put up that gun. This ain't no place for shooting. Drawed a thick sleepy voice which I recognized instantly. Such a gab. Who's hurting you? answered bub, the biggest of the four and one of the ugliest when intoxicated. Mrs. Sullivan's in the next room. You wouldn't shoot her, would you? asked Sim sneeringly in a loud tone where he could stand up under great quantities of liquor. Keep still a minute, you fool. In a harsh whisper from bub. I was now thankful that I was dressed. I waited no longer. Opening the door I ran downstairs to Molly and the captain knocking loudly upon their door. Hang those brutes! exclaimed the captain angrily when I had finished telling him what had happened. What is the matter with them anyway? Whiskey, said I, they are all as drunk as pirates. Show me your room and window, demanded the captain who by this time had gotten into some of his clothing and stepped into the living room where I was. I then led the way upstairs and threw open my door. What a sight! Broken glass covered the floor in bed, the cool morning air pouring in through the broken pane of which there was little left in the sash. That was enough for the captain. He made straight for the next room where all was now perfectly still, only Ford remaining in it, the others having had sense enough to sneak off to their own places after hearing me run downstairs to report. Seizing my blankets I closed and locked the door and made my way downstairs to Molly. Above we could hear the captain's voice in angry altercation with the men. They denying everything of course, even the stone throwing, with the window as evidence against them. It was half past four and I had slept little. There was no fire in the house and I was cold, so throwing down a few skins in a corner of the sewing room with my blankets upon them I covered myself to get warm. At last the house was once more quiet and I slept for an hour, only to meet black and angry looks from the men all day, accompanied by threats and curses, though I said nothing to them. I picked up the stone from my reindeer rug where it had fallen after shattering the window pane and it lay only two feet from my head. It was about the size of an egg. Of course it is impossible for me to leave Chinook as the winter trails are broken up. The ice has not left the bay and no steamers can enter, so we are practically prisoners. Oh, how I long to get away from this terrible place. Never since I came to Chinook have I given these men one cross word and yet they hate me with a bitter jealous hatred such as I have never before seen. Some weeks ago I penned a slip of paper into my Bible upon which I have written the address of my parents in case anything should happen to me. Oh, to be once more safe at home with them. God grant that I may be before many months shall have passed. A splendid warm bright day, June 13th, the most of which the children and I have spent upon the sandy beach in front of the hotel. Little Ginny lies and plays on the warm dry sand, though of course she does not stand on her feet nor walk. Other small Eskimos come to play with them, for Charlie is always on hand for a play spell on the sand and I doze and read under my umbrella in the meantime with an eye always upon them. They make sand pies, native egg glues, and many imaginary things and places but more than any other thing is my mind upon the coming of the steamers when I hope to get away. Molly came in last night from a seal hunt upon the ice and she with the three native boys secured a white seal and ate others but did not bring all with them. There is a great deal of water on the ice at this time and none but natives like to travel upon it. Ducks and geese are flying northward and flocks above our heads and we feast daily upon them. They are very large and tasty and the cook knows well how to serve them. We now see a line of blue water out beyond the ice and even distinguish white breakers in the distance. Today I took a field glass and climbing the hill behind the mission to look as far out as possible strain my eyes to see a steamer. As I stood upon the point to get a better view the whole world around seemed waking from a long, long sleep. At my left was Cheenick Creek pouring its rushing waters out over the bay ice with a cheerful rapid roaring. Farther away south stretched the derby cape into blue water which looked like indigo surmounted by long rolling breakers with combs of white all being fully 14 miles away to the northwest of the sandspit upon which Cheenick is built and which cuts Galovan Bay almost in two. The fish river is also emptying itself as is Kichawit Creek and other smaller streams. Overall the welcome sunshine is flooded warming the buds and roots on the hillside and making all beautiful. June 17th this is Bunker Hill Day in New England and the men have been celebrating on their own account setting off a 50 pounds box of dynamite in the neighborhood to frighten the women I suppose. The shock was terrific breaking windows lampshades and jarring bottles and other articles off the shelves. Jenny was dreadfully frightened and screamed for a few minutes while the living room soon filled with men inquiring the cause of the explosion. By and by a man came in saying that another box of giant powder would be set off but with that the marshal left the room with a determined face and we heard no more dynamiting. The men, as usual, were intoxicated. I have just had a pleasant little outing at the home going with Molly who invited me to go with her. She was going out seal hunting on the ice would leave me at the home for a short visit and pick me up on her return. Aggie Tuck and Grandmother would take good care of Jenny for so short a time and I needed the change so I ran up to my room, threw some things hastily into a small bag to take with me, locked my trunk. I had long ago put a package consisting of papers and diaries into the safe and the kind storekeepers care. Dressed myself in my shortest skirts and longest rubber boots and we started. The weather was too warm for furs and sunshine or while running behind a sled so I wore a thick jacket, black straw hat with thick veil and kid gloves. We left the hotel about half past seven o'clock in the evening but with the sun still high and warm Molly had her small sled and three dogs with Mookie and Poonie Chara in their guns. The other sled was a large one and to it were hitched seven good dogs accompanied by Ittuk and Koki. Upon the sleds were furs, guns, bags and fishing tackle. Along shore there was considerable water on the ice and a few spots the ladder had disappeared and we could see the sandy beach but farther east the ice was firmer and Molly who made for the best looking places led the way, eye running closely in her footsteps. Behind us came the men and teams the calls of the Eskimos to their dogs sounding musically on the quiet evening air. Molly and I were now leaping over water-filled cracks or lanes in the ice. She having assured me that after getting away from the shore it would be better traveling and we could ride on the sleds when we were tired but I felt considerable pride in keeping up with her and soon grew very warm from the stiff exercise, unaccustomed as I was while she was well used to it. After we had left the shore some distance behind us we halted for the sleds to come up. Molly seating herself upon the small one, I waiting for the other a little later. There I ran at the handlebars for a time but at last I threw myself upon the sled among the furs and pulled a parkie over me. We were now in the water a foot deep most of the time the dogs picking their way along over the narrowest water lanes it took and Koki shouting to them to ghee and haw and with Eskimo calls and whip snapping urging them on continually soon we left the smaller sled behind. Molly, Mookie and Poonie making the air ring with laughter and Eskimo songs. As we started out from home the sun shone brightly upon us but as we left the land at our backs and made our way farther out upon the bay the sun dropped lower and lower the sky became a mass of crimson and yellow and the whole world seemed modestly blushing. Along the east shore the rolling hills lay almost bare of snow the brown tundra appearing softly and most artistically colored to the north the mountains were still tipped with snow as was also the promontory Cape Darby at the extreme southeast point this was spotted and streaked with white its rocky cliff black and shadow by contrast. Our eyes eagerly scanned the horizon for steamers and a schooner had been reported off Darby loaded with fresh fruits and vegetables but we could not see it. By and by we were past most of the water lanes and the ice was better. At half past nine o'clock in the evening the sky was exceedingly grand and a song of gratitude welled up in my heart for this was another world from the one we had just left and I no longer wondered at Molly's love of hunting in the fresh air under the beautiful skies and with her freedom to travel wherever she liked with her I felt perfectly safe no harm could come to me when Molly led the way and my confidence in the native men was equally strong or were they not as familiar with ice and water as with land I soon saw that we were headed toward the island though I did not know why and by this time Molly was far ahead also that we were being followed by a dog team from Chinook which puzzled me for I had not heard that others were going out hunting for seal or starting for the home which was my destination when we reached the north end of the small island Molly ran up the path like a deer I following as did the natives leaving the dogs to rest upon the ice from a hole in the rocks Koki now hauled his kayak or small skin boat where he had left it from a former trip and dragging it down upon the ice he lashed it upon the small sled to be carried still farther the dog team which I had seen following in the distance had now come up with us and I heard one man say to the other there's Mrs Sullivan but I did not recognize the voice when they came nearer we found it to be two men from camp who were going out to the schooners to buy fruit and vegetables and they wanted to get a dog belonging to them which Molly had borrowed and had hitched into her team a change of dogs was then made and we started Molly and I on her big sled the other two following we now skirted the rocky cliffs and found the ice hummacky between great deep cracks where the water was no longer white but dark and forbidding sometimes Koki suddenly started the dogs to one side to avoid dark looking holes in the ice the dogs leaping over seams which quickly lay beneath us as the four and hinder parts of our sled bridged the crevasse of ugly water now the sled swayed from side to side as the dogs made sudden curves or dashes then a big hummock of ice and snow had to be crossed and one end of the sled went up while the other went down I was holding on to the side rails with both hands and knowing that the sled was a good strong one I had no fear of its breaking but my feet were cold in my rubber boots and I had drawn some furs over me Molly is not a great talker she seldom explains anything and one only has to wait and see the outcome of her movements and this I did when she suddenly with it took left the sleds and climbed the rocks of the island again on the south side then I saw them gathering sticks and small driftwood and knew that they would make a fire upon the ice at midnight while preparing to hunt for seals coming to a rough place with high piled ice between great ugly seams over which the sagacious dogs dragged the sleds always in a straight line not slant wise I climbed out and Molly and it took came with their driftwood which they threw upon the sled the two men making for the schooner forging ahead in the direction of Cape Darby it took and Mookie now made ready to go with me to the home a half mile away to the east where they were also to get some bread this important item having been forgotten in the hurry of departure from Chenick in the meantime Molly not to lose a moment of time as is her method had gotten out her fishing tackle and was already fishing for Tom Cod threw a hole in the ice fitting her beyaqua goodbye we started for the home it took politely taking my little bag and Mookie leaping lightly over the rocks toward the mainland along the shore of the island I was fearful of cutting my boots on the jagged rocks and rubble thickly strewn over the sands and had to proceed cautiously for a time but it took perceiving my difficulty led to a smoother path and we were soon on the mainland and upon the soft tundra when it was only a few minutes walk to the home it was eleven o'clock in the evening and we found the missionaries just returned from a trip to the schooner where they had secured fresh potatoes and onions the smell and taste of an onion was never so good to me before and the potatoes were the first we had seen in six months I had been in the home in the early spring for a day and now as then met with a warm welcome from the missionaries they now had doubled the number of native children they had in Chenwick and their houses large and commodious though unfinished I was assigned the velvet couch upon which I had spent a good many nights and the two natives returned to Mali after securing some bread from Miss E for their lunches next day we visited and I rested considerably finding again how good it was to be in a safe and quiet place with no fear of stone throwers or giant powder about half past 10 o'clock in the evening just after the sun had set we started on our return trip Mali having arrived with her dog teams and natives the sunset sky was exceedingly beautiful but beneath our feet we had only very bad ice and water near the island great ice cakes were floating interspersed with dark seams and lanes wider than we had before seen sometimes I rode on one of the sleds or walked ran or leaped over the waterholes to keep up with the rest until too tired and heated when I threw myself upon a sled again but as we proceeded we found firmer ice and less water Mali and I had both to ride upon one sled now for it took had lashed the kayak upon the little one and they were one dog short as an animal had run away while they were eating supper at the home finally pitting the dogs upon the large sled who seemed to have a heavy load although only one seal as they had met with little success in hunting I motioned to it to wait for me which he did it took I called as I came nearer let me ride in the kayak will you you ride in kayak ask the man in surprise yes let me get in I will hold on tight and as he made no objection I climbed upon the boat crept into the hole made for that purpose and sat down all right it took I am ready I said the man laughed cracked his whip and the dog started I had not before realized that I would be sitting so high up and that at each dip in a crack or depression of the ice when the sled runner ran a little higher than the other I should stand a grand chance of being spilled into the water but my feet were so cold in my rubber boots that I was thinking to get them under cover would be agreeable and though it took probably well knew what the outcome of my ride would be he very patiently agreed to allow me to try it we had not gone far when our dogs made a sudden dash or turn the right hand runner slipped lengthwise into a seam and over we went sled kayak woman and all upon the ice in a sorry heap the dogs halted instantly and it took who had been running on the left hand side of them came back at my call oh it took come here and help me I cannot get out of the kayak I cried lustily I will not get into it again and I rubbed my wrist upon which the skin had been slightly bruised and he assisted me to my feet the native laughed kayak no good writing feet better run he said that's so it took but my feet are very cold get to warm quick you running was his reply and we started on again when five or six miles from chinic the water became more troublesome and our progress was slow we were wading through holes leaping over seams and treading through slush and water it was colder than the night before a thin skin of ice was forming but not firm enough to hold one up I was cold and cuddled into the sled with Molly but the two natives running alongside were continually sitting upon the rail to get a short ride instead of walking thus loading the sled too heavily upon one side and we were soon all tumbled into water a foot deep as I went over I threw out my arm to save myself and my sleeve was soaked through in an instant Koki and Mookie thought it great fun and laughed and shouted in glee but to me it was a little too serious my clothes were wet through on my right side and I was now obliged to run whether I wanted to do so or not for we were fully a mile from home my gloves and handkerchief were soaked with water and I threw them away thrusting my hands into my jacket pockets and running to keep up with the others we were now wading and leaping across frequent lanes and were more in the water than upon the ice the sharp eyes of the natives had discerned the shoreline well bordered by open water and they were wondering how they would get across finally we could get no farther and were a hundred feet from the beach dogs can swim said Molly sententiously as was her habit how will you and I get on shore Molly I asked anxiously it took big man he carry you maybe answered Molly roguishly with a twinkle but I continued seriously how deep is the water anyway Koki seeing that he had been wading in to find out him not much deep we walk all right bout up here and the native placed his hand halfway between his knee and thigh to show the depth then walking a little farther down towards the hotel he seemed to find a better place and called for all to follow which we did the men waited across to the shore stepping upon stones which now and then at this point were embedded in the sand Molly boldly following their example all wore high-skinned boots coming far above their knees and water tight but my rubber boots had never been put to a test like this only coming a little above my knees where the soft tops were confined by a drawstring and this water was very cold as I had good reason to know however there was nothing to do but go on first watching the others and then plunging boldly in I drew my boot tops higher fasten the string securely picked up my short skirts and wound them closely about me but not in a manner to impede my progress and stepped in by this time the dogs and men were upon the sands and making for home only a few rods away but I took my time walking slowly in order that the water should not slop over the tops of my boots and we finally reached the beach and the house safely end of chapter 25 chapter 26 of a woman who went to Alaska by May Kellogg Sullivan this LibriVox recording is in the public domain this recording by Karen Cummins chapter 26 goodbye to Golovin Bay on the morning of the 26th of June I awoke to find that the ice had drifted out to sea in the night eight days after Molly and I had taken our 12 miles trip across the bay in return then came hard rain and wind that for several days blew the ice back into the bay first to one side and then to the other so that the steamers waiting to come in could not do so for fear of the drifting flows by the 30th of June schooners were coming into the bay with passengers and freight and the coast steamers Elmore and Dora had begun to make regular trips to and from gnome with them came males from the outside with newspapers and tidings of friends in the states then our fingers trembled at opening our letters until we found that all our dear ones were well and we heartily thank the lord there were other white women in camp by this time and many strangers at the hotel among others officials and those in authority since the stone-throwing episode the marshal had been doing duty as watchmen sleeping during the day and guarding the house nights the heavy iron bracelets in his inner coat pocket weighing scarcely more than the loaded revolver in his belt our little sick girl being obliged now to keep her bed continually with no more playing in the sand and sunshine although her cough had left her was still the same sweet patient child she had been through all her illness and my whole time was given to her before one of the sunny south windows of the living room we placed her cot each morning and here she received her numerous friends both eskimo and white and their names were legion they came from the east west north and south all sorry to know of her illness and bringing presents with them sometimes it was a little live bird or squirrel a delicious salmon trout or wild fowl for her supper sometimes it was candy nuts or fresh fruit from gnome and with everything she was well pleased and joyous friends soon came in from the outside bringing city dolls dressed in ribbons and laces there were tiny dishes chairs tables a hundred things dear to a little girl's heart and all pleased her immensely but all were laid quickly aside for a basket of wild flowers or mosses for a fish bird animal or baby showing plainly her taste for the things of nature and preference to art her love for her birthplace with its hills streams and ocean is a sincere one and young as she is and having seen the great city by the golden gate with many of its wonders she is happiest in chenic here lives her dear old grandmother her cousins and aunts not to mention the little calico capped baby belonging to apoc for which she has a whole heart full of love and the sight of which is better to her than medicine during the month of july we eagerly watched the incoming steamers and welcomed all newcomers who landed in chenic many were simply passing through on their way up fish river to the mines and praise of the land of the ofer gold was sung on all sides a few remained for the summer here men built boats and rode away to kachowik and new clerk carrying supplies for hunting or prospecting the captain's vegetable garden in the sand was growing rapidly and was watched with eager eyes by everyone we ate lettuce and radishes picked fresh from the garden beds where they had been sown by the captain's own hands and we found eggy tuck and molly to be quite famous cooks nothing so delicious as their salads for the french cook said long ago gone the hotel management being changed and molly had a nice little kitchen of her own and with fresh salmon trout wildfowl fresh meats and vegetables we made up for many months of winter dieting all this time i longed to get away i was going each day to the hilltop to watch for the steamers which would bring the letters for which i waited affairs connected with my gold claims were with much anxiety and trouble arranged as well as possible and when i boarded the steamer i would carry with me at least three deeds to as many claims with a fair prospect of others but i could not decide to remain another winner i was determined to go to st michael up the yukanda Dawson and outside and laid my plans accordingly letters from my father and brother and Dawson had been received and my heart ached when i thought of leaving the little sick girl and charlie the latter now grown willful but still so bright and pretty i wanted to take both with me but no i could not the little girl's work was not ended here is a wonderful mission and she is surely about to fulfill it born as she was in a rough mining camp at the foot of the baron hills she was given the eskimo name of yukuk meaning a little hill and she like an oasis in a desert place is left here to cheer love and help others many times i have seen evidence of the sweet and gentle influences going out from the life of little yukkuk as she lies upon her cot of pain a tall brown miner enters the living room goes to the little bed by the window speaks softly and bending over the tiny girl kisses her then her big black eyes glance brightly into blue ones looking down from above full red lips part in a cordial smile while the one solitary dimple in the smooth round cheek pricks its way still deeper and small arms go up around his neck when the man turns his face wears a soft and tender expression as though he were looking at some beautiful sight far away and perhaps he is god grant that the sweet memory of that little child's kiss may be so lasting that all their lives he and others may be purer and better men when august came i sailed away the dora had entered the bay in the morning and found my trunk packed and waiting it was then only the work of a little time to make ready to leave to my good missionary friends i had already said goodbye and the captain and molly were kindly regretful with tears in my eyes but with real pain in my heart i bade jenny goodbye and stepped into the little boat which was to carry me to the dora farewell then to chinic the home of the north wind and blizzard farewell to the ice fields of gloven so tardy and leaving in summer and to kachowic and chinic whose clear rushing water so cheered us in springtime farewell to the moss-covered hills and paths thickly bordered with blossoms farewell to my white-faced friends and to the dark-skinned ones baokwa end of chapter 26 chapter 27 of a woman who went to Alaska by May Kellogg Sullivan this LibriVox recording is in the public domain this recording by Karen Cummins chapter 27 going outside do i sleep do i dream do i wonder in doubt are things what they seem or are visions about i was now actually on my way home it was not a dream for here i was on board the snug little ocean steamer dora belonging to the alaska commercial company and i was on my way to st michael and Dawson for ocean travel our steamer was a perfect one in all its appointments being staunch and reliable with accommodating officers after taking a last look at chinic i went to my state room only one stop was made before we reached st michael that being at port den bay a new mining camp where for some hours freight was unloaded in about 22 hours from the time we left chinic we were in st michael harbour climbing down upon a covered barge which took us ashore it was nearly two years since i had first landed at this dock then in a snowstorm now in the rain then with my brother now alone not at all like gnome is this quiet little hamlet of st michael by the sea neither saloons nor disorderly places are allowed upon the island what was formerly a canteen for soldiers was now a small but tidy restaurant where i ate a good dinner of beef steak with an appetite allowable in alaska upon the streets and about the barracks were many boys in blue while the hotel parlors swarmed at dinner time with officers and their wives and daughters all richly and fashionably attired at the parlor piano two ladies performed a duet while the silken skirts of others rustled in an aristocratic manner over the thick carpet and gentlemen in dress suits and gold laced uniforms gracefully posed and chatted for my own part a little homesick feeling had to be resolutely put down as i pulled on my old raincoat and with umbrella and handbag trudged out in the darkness and rain to look for my baggage i had already secured my transportation at the steamship office where at the hands of the kindly manager of the alaska commercial companies affairs in this country i had received the most courteous treatment i could desire with little delay i found my trunk and went on board the uconn steamer tc power some months before a consolidation of the three largest transportation companies in alaska had been affected including the alaska commercial company and i was now traveling with the latter under the name of the northern commercial company but i felt a security like that of being in charge of an old and trustworthy friend and was quite content i had a long journey before me we should reach dawson in 14 days unless we met with delays but a fast rising wind warned us that we might encounter something of the sort where we were and we did for two days and nights our steamer lay under the lee of the island not daring to venture out in the teeth of the gale which buffeted us straining creaking swaying first one way and then the other we lay waiting for the storm to abate no river steamer with stern wheel and of shallow draft could safely weather the rough sea for 60 miles to the uconn's mouth and we tried to be patient early on the morning of the third day we started and for 12 hours we plowed our way through the waters with bow now deep in the trough of the sea now lifted high in midair to be met the next moment by an uprising roller which with a boom and a jar sent a quiver through the whole vessel when at last the uconn was reached another obstacle appeared and we stuck fast on a sandbar soon two other steamers lay alongside waiting as did we for a high tide to float us by night we lay in a dead calm indians and canoes came with fish and curios to sell and we watched the lights of the other steamers when the high tide came we floated off the bar but the scene was one of dull monotony and it was not until the day following that we came into the hill country and i was permitted to again see the deer trees i loved so well not one of which i had seen since leaving california at anvic there came on board a little missionary teacher bound for philadelphia who had spent seven years with the natives in this episcopal mission without a vacation and her stories were interesting in the extreme our days were uneventful a broken stern wheel enforced rest upon stand bars frequent stops at wood yards with a few moments run upon shore in which to gather autumn leaves and get a sniff of the woods this was our life upon the yukon steamer for many days after a while the nights grew too dark for safe progress and the boat was tied up until daylight russian mission to nana rampart fort yukon and the flats were passed and the days wore tediously on we were literally worming our way upstream with low water and dark nights to contend with but a second summer was upon us with warm bright sunshine and the hills were brilliantly colored one morning we approached the towering roquette rock so named by lieutenant frederick schwatka in his explorations down the yukon years before and connected with which is an indian legend of some interest this immense rock so the story runs once formed a part of the western shore of the yukon and was one of a pair of towering cliffs of about the same size and with similar characteristics here the two huge cliffs lived for many geological periods in wedded bliss as man and wife until finally family dissensions invaded the rocky household and ended by the stony hearted husband kicking his wrangling wife into the distant plain and changing the course of the great river so that it flowed between them to emphasize the perpetual divorce the cliff in the rock are still known as the old man and the old woman the latter standing in isolation upon a low flat island with the muddy yukon flowing on both sides at this time of the year the days in alaska grow perceptibly shorter and we were not surprised to find dusky twilight at five in the afternoon and to notice the eerie loneliness of the dark sweet synod woods a few hours later when the steamer laid tied to the river's bank one night after dinner a number of passengers sat idly about in the saloon of our steamer many had grown tired of cards or had lost their money and finding themselves pitted against more lucky players had called a halt and looked for other occupation miners lounged about chatting of the gold mines their summer's work and experiences big curly and his little black eyed wife listened attentively for a time the old miner was a born storyteller and knew a good yarn when he heard it the boat was tied up for the night and all was quiet around us it was the time and place for a story at last big curly hitched his chair out farther from the wall and placed his feet comfortably upon the rungs then shifting his tobacco from one cheek to the other he asked if anyone present had heard the story of nelson and the ghost no one had heard it and after some coaxing this is the tale he told the ghost of 40 mile alaska has long smiled over old indian legends but yukon men are still puzzling over the nocturnal rambles of the ghost of a murdered man in the 40 mile district following the excitement of the discovery of bonanza bar and the sensational riches of franklin gulch came the murder of an old frenchman named lasal tenana indians committed the crime in 1886 they crossed the mountains to 40 mile and killed lasal in his cabinet the mouth of obrayan creek with axes and bludgeons the old frenchman's head was crushed beyond recognition three months later the snow lay thick upon the ground upon the branches of trees that persistently hung each added layer clinging tenaciously because there was no breath of wind to send it to the ground occasionally a dead twig waited too heavily by the increasing fall of snow broke suddenly and dropped noiselessly into a bed of feathery flakes thus joining its sleeping companions the leaves it was in january that two men might have been seen following their dog teams down a frozen stream emptying into 40 mile river they wish to reach the mouth of the creek before they halted for the night they had heard of a cabin in which they planned to spend the night although it was a deserted one and they were almost at the desired point the men were swedes they were strong and hearty fellows and although frost covered their clothing and hung in icicles about their faces they ran contentedly behind the dog teams in the semi-darkness as only the snowlight remained hello called out swanson finally to his companion is that the place do you think pointing to the dim shape of a log cabin a little ahead yes it is but we'll find out i'm nearly starved and must stop soon anyway said nelson decidedly it's no use for us to travel further tonight so i think was the reply as the dogs halted before the door and the men entered the cabin here they found a good-sized room containing one window there was evidently a room on the other side but with no connecting door the two cabins having been built together to save laying one wall this is good enough for me and much warmer than a tent we'll stay here till morning and take the dogs inside said kind-hearted nelson already unhitching the dogs from a sled swanson did the same the next moment their small store was carried into the cabin wood was collected and a cheery fire soon roared up the chimney after the men had eaten their supper and the dogs had been fed pipes were brought out and stretching themselves upon their first sleeping bags before the fire the miners smoked and chatted while resting their weary limbs suddenly in the midnight stillness they heard a strange noise in the other part of the cabin someone was moaning and crying for help there was no mistaking the sound and both men were wide awake and intently listening it was the cry of someone in distress the sounds grew more blood curdling nelson unable to restrain himself longer ran outside to investigate going to the window he looked inside the sight he beheld congealed his blood and fastened him to the spot as in a trance this was the image of a man surrounded by a cloud of white mis-like phosphorescent light a deep scar standing out like a bleeding gash down the side of the head then the forgotten story of the murdered lasal came to his mind and for several minutes he was chained to the spot by the terror of the spectacle the apparition was half lying upon the floor with arm uplifted as if warding off a blow from some deadly instrument finally in the desperation of his terror nelson called his partner to come to his assistance upon the approach of his companion he summoned enough courage to step to the door at the other end of the cabin and try to open it it was held fast by some superhuman agency which allowed the door to be only partly opened swanson at the site of the ghostly visitor was not so badly overcome as his friend and having an inquisitive turn of mind wished to find if the apparition really existed he called out demanding to be told who was there but no answer came still the mysterious unearthly noises came through the cabin door no sowing of the wind could make such sounds had a tempest been blowing but a deathly stillness prevailed and no breath of air stirred then it was that swanson gathered all that was left of his fast disappearing courage and said in the name of the father son and holy spirit are you a demon man or ghost suddenly the door opened and in the uncertain misty light the apparition raised its hands to the stars as if in prayer then it grew dark and the ghostly visitor vanished as if the earth had engulfed it forever while turning this tail over in mind later i came to the conclusion which seems a reasonable one that some fortunate minor had in all probability hidden an amount of golden treasure in or about the cabin on the creek and wishing to keep others away had circulated the ghost story with good effect when eagle city was reached i telegraphed my brother to meet me at the steamer's dock in Dawson and my message was sent by one of uncle sam's boys in blue in charge of the office the town had grown considerably in the two years since i visited it and now boasted new government buildings officers quarters and a presbyterian church besides new stores and shops after cut a he and 40 mile came Dawson and we steamed up to the city's dock in the morning fog and were met by the usual multitude of people i having been 17 days out from galovan bay there among others waited my brother and his little son and my joy at meeting them was great landing it was only a walk of a few minutes to my kind old father and my brother's wife was not far away i was now practically at home for home is where our dear ones are and surroundings are matters of small moment three happy weeks followed i went everywhere and noted well the improvements in the camp since i last saw it it was now a cleaner town every way with better order good roads and bridges new government buildings post office and fine large school house new frame churches replaced the old log ones in most cases there was the governor's new palatial residence which would never be graced by the presence of its mistress as she and her babe had gone down to death a few weeks before in the island or disaster in lin canal and there was the same steady stream of gold from the wondrous clondike creeks which i was now determined to visit one bright warm day taking the hand of the small boy of the family my sister and i started for bonanza creek we were bound for the house of a friend who had invited us and we would remain overnight as the distance was five miles my kodak and three big red apples weighed little in our hands and we turned toward the clondike river in high spirits for a mile the road was bordered with log cabins on the hillside with the famous little river flowing on the other we crossed the fine ogle v bridge and soon found ourselves upon bonanza creek the stream which with the eldorado had given to the world perhaps the major part of golden clondike treasure up to this date following the trail by a shortcut we crossed shaky foot bridges rested upon logs along the trail and picked our way over boggy spots until our limbs were weary everywhere there were evidences of the industry of the miners but the claims and cabins looked deserted only in a few instances were men at work near the mouth of the creek many people were going to and from Dawson and bicycles and wagons were numerous when we reached our destination we had walked five miles in the hot sunshine and were hungry and warm but a warm welcome from Mr and Mrs M as well as a good dinner awaited us after resting a while we were shown around the premises three log cabins were being built in a row upon the hillside the one finished being already occupied by the M family tunnels were being made in the mountain by Mr M as well as other claim owners nearby and across the gulch mining operations were in full blast on the M claim preparations were being made for winter work and it was expected that a valuable dump would be taken out before spring for 300 feet one tunnel entered the mountain back of the cabins and we were invited to go into it putting on our warmest wraps with candles in hand we followed our guide the proprietor for some distance it was like walking in a refrigerator for the walls and floor of the tunnel were solidly frozen and sparkled with ice whether the bright specks we saw were always frost we did not inquire etiquette forbidding too much curiosity but from the satisfied nods and smiles we understood that it was a good claim though only recently purchased by Mr M a handful of pudgy gold nuggets being shown us which fairly made our eyes water because they did not belong to us here we lodged all night enjoying a graphophone entertainment in the evening the next morning my Kodak was brought out and before leaving for home i had several views to carry with me our walk back to Dawson was much easier than the one out to the claim from this on we made ready to leave Dawson for Seattle and were soon upon our way again i was forced to say goodbye to my father and brother though they would follow us a month later and together my sister and i stood with the little boy on the deck of the steamer waving our goodbyes we now traveled in luxury we occupied a large and elegant state room ate first-class meals and had nothing to do but enjoy ourselves to change from steamer to steam cars at Whitehorse which was now a good mining town was the work of an hour's time while a day's ride to Bennett and over to the White Pass to Skagway was a real pleasure we found the quiet little port of Skagway swarming with people rushing for the steamers and as if to give us variety we had considerable difficulty in finding our trunks in the customs house and in getting upon the steamer in the darkness of the late evening but at last it was all successfully accomplished and we took our last look at Skagway eleven days after leaving Dawson we reached our journey's end and landed in Seattle our homecoming being a source of delight to our dear waiting ones as well as to ourselves our safe arrival being another positive proof of the mercy and goodness of God end of a woman who went to Alaska by May Kellogg Sullivan this recording by Karen Cummins I invite you to visit my website at Karen Cummins.com