 In part one of this program, we went through the procedures for loading and securing a loader on the tilt bed trailer. Now in part two, we'll discuss the basics of towing, maneuvering the truck and trailer. Then we'll cover unloading, getting the loader off the trailer safely. And finally, we'll look at loading materials on the trailer. First, towing. The length of the trailer and the weight and height of the load makes towing a lot different than normal driving. Maneuvering the trailer calls for extra care and skill in braking, turning and backing. Let's look at braking first. That white box under the dash is the trailer brake. It applies whenever you depress the brakes on the truck. But in slippery conditions, you can apply the trailer brake manually for even more control. Before you leave the yard, fasten your seat belt. Then pull ahead slowly and test the trailer brake. If the brake is working correctly, it should bring both the truck and trailer to a smooth stop. When you're towing, keep in mind that the weight of the trailer and load increases the amount of time and distance you need to stop. Downshift when possible. Let the truck's engine help control your speed. And begin applying the brakes well in advance of an intersection or turn. Of course, the best way to ensure a smooth safe stop is to tow at a safe speed. A speed consistent with the road, traffic and weather conditions. Hitting the brakes in the middle of a sharp curve can cause the trailer to skid or jackknife. So slow down before you enter the curve. Then speed up gradually after you pass the midpoint of the curve. After a few miles of traveling, you should stop the truck and check the load. Get out of the cab and double check the chains and binders. A tight chain in the yard can become a loose chain after a few miles of bouncing around. Now turning. We've set up some traffic cones to simulate a right turn. Notice how the truck brushes the corner cone, but the trailer rolls right over it. The thing to remember here is the trailer will take a shorter path around turns. Here's another demonstration. The truck makes the turn, but the trailer doesn't. It took a shorter path. To avoid running over curbs and signs when you make a right turn, try going a little farther into the intersection before you start your turn. And try to stay in your lane as you go through the turn. But if you're towing a long trailer or operating on a narrow road, you can't always avoid crossing the center line. So if you have to, do it on the road you're turning onto, not the road you're turning from. That way, at least you're facing potential danger. And remember the trailer when you make left turns, too. If your turn is too sharp, the trailer could hit someone waiting at the intersection. Remember, the trailer takes a shorter path. So again, pull farther into the intersection before you start your turn. That way the trailer will clear any vehicle in the opposing lane. The trailer also takes a shorter path on curbs. For curves to the right, stay close to the center line. That'll keep the trailer on the road and off the shoulder. And for curves to the left, stay close to the edge of the pavement. That keeps the trailer from crossing the center line into oncoming traffic. Now backing the trailer. Backing up is probably the most difficult towing maneuver. In fact, avoid it whenever you can. And never get into a situation in which you have to back into traffic. Pull it. Turn that thing around and enter traffic correctly. That's better. When you're backing the trailer, use both of your rear view mirrors. And if possible, get someone to spot for you. Follow their directions as you back up. Backing up in a straight line isn't too difficult if you know what's behind you and where you want to end up. But backing and turning at the same time is another story. Because it swivels on the hitch, the trailer turns in the opposite direction of your truck. You turn right, the trailer goes left. And vice versa. You have to steer the truck in the opposite direction you want the trailer to go. Believe me, it takes practice. But if you go slow, use your mirrors and a spotter, you'll get there eventually. Now, we've talked about how the weight and length of the trailer can affect your driving. But you also have to remember another dimension. Height. Always consider your overhead clearance before you drive in areas with low clearance or overhanging tree limbs and power lines. Now let's take a look at unloading the tilt bed trailer. Follow the same precautions as in loading. Park on leveled ground, set the parking brake and block the wheels. Loosen and remove the tie-down chains and binders. You can stow the chains in a compartment under the trailer bed. Unlock the platform lock so the trailer will tilt down as you drive off. If you've taped down the rain cap on the exhaust stack, remove the tape before you start the loader. And remove the pivot lock so you'll be able to steer the loader when you drive off the trailer. After you start the loader, raise the boom and tilt the bucket back so you'll clear the ground as you drive off. After you get the loader off the trailer, walk up the trailer bed to lower it. And reset the platform lock. And that's it for unloading. But trailers don't sit around empty for very long. As soon as you get it unloaded, you'll be loading it again with something else. Guard rail. When you put a load of guard rail on the trailer, overlap the sections to hold them tight. Put blocks on the top layer so you can get more downward pressure when you tighten the chains. Use at least two chains, about a quarter of the way in from each end. And put the binders on the driver's side so you can see them easily in your mirrors when you're driving. And of course, always double check the chains and binders. If the load extends four feet or more from the end of the trailer, put a flag on the rail that sticks out the farthest. And it has to be a red flag, not an orange one. That's the law. Now let's take a look at loading the trailer with pipe. You should block the side of the first pipe to keep it from rolling. Then continue loading the first layer. Try to keep the load centered on the trailer as best you can. That'll make controlling the trailer easier when you tow it. Drape a chain loosely around the first layer and fasten it. That'll keep the first layer in place when you're loading and unloading the upper layers. When you get all of the pipe onto the trailer, tie it down. Two chains, binders on the driver's side, and everything nice and tight. Actually, when you get right down to it, there's really not much difference between tying down a few lengths of pipe and tying down a 10-ton piece of equipment. You just want to make sure it's going to stay on the trailer.