 Besides having a salinity the same, you need to be watching your temperature. You don't want any temperature shock. Also, pH may be a concern. Luckily, the seawater that we make is really well buffered, and pH shouldn't be a problem, but you need to go ahead and have a pH meter and just make sure that pH is not a problem. Okay. Okay. During the acclimation process, you're going to use two different types of feed. Back in the earlier days, we used to worry about culturing algae and diatoms and actually culturing brine shrimp, but since then, the two feed companies, Rangan and Ziggler, have developed very fine feeds, very finely ground feeds that can replace the brine shrimp. This first feed you're going to feed, the particle size is actually smaller than 600 microns. It's called PL Ready Reserve, and it's actually a powder, it's a very fine powder. The second, you'll use the first feed for about the first three days. The second feed is between 600 and 850 microns, and it's more granulated, still pretty small, and you'll use that after day three until you get them into the pond. When you get them into the pond, you'll use a third type of feed, which is a little bit coarser. Now this feed is very expensive. These are 20-pound bags, and you'll spend more than $40 a bag, not including freight. So you want to have a really good scale that can measure intensive a pound when you're feeding your PLs. You don't only waste this feed. So you go ahead and invest in a good scale, it'll pay for itself and its feed savings. Okay, this is a six acre pond, and there are seven paddle aerators running in here continuously. This farm also has a backup 10 horsepower aerator and one, two, three, four PTO aerators driven by tractors. So you can see this particular pond is well supplied with an aeration. You should plan on aerating a pond at a minimum of four horsepower per surface acre. Another rule of thumb, the use is if you use one third horsepower per acre foot during a daytime, that will keep stratification to a minimum. In other words, if you run one third of a horsepower per acre foot all day long, your oxygen level from top to bottom should be fairly constant. This pond also has an automatic monitoring system. If you can see out in the middle of the pond, there's a buoy, and that buoy has a dissolved oxygen probe and a temperature gauge, and it's continually monitoring the oxygen level at about a foot depth. Ideally, you want to have some kind of a monitoring system on the bottom of the pond. But in this situation, the oxygen is monitored continually and if the oxygen drops below, say, four parts per million, this 10 horsepower paddle wheel will click on. This is Mike Stewart. He works on the Compton Fish Farm, the Falkland Springs Farm. And Mr. Brian Compton is the owner, and Mike's been here, what, three, four years? Five years. Five years. And they have three shrimp ponds, three shrimp ponds, and they're very good producers. Last year, I believe they had an average yield of 7,000 pounds per acre, which is probably the leading grower in the ship industry in terms of pounds per acre. And you can see on their shrimp farm, they like the air rate, and I am a firm believer that air ration increases your yield. Mike, explain to them how the air raiders are set up. Well, Vernon, which is from Belize, he likes continuous water movement around the outer perimeter of the pond. And that's the reason we've got... These solder sets these up in the form that they're in, the solder keeps the water continuously moving around the whole perimeter of the pond, and these little air raiders here, they run 24 hours a day once they get up to a certain stage of growth, and like I said, the larger one is run off of the Roy system. Okay. I see you have a lot of PTO... Well, this pond died off yesterday, honestly, and that's the reason we've got a lot of PTOs in there just trying to keep it up, but it shows to be greening back up. I believe the bloom is coming back. What's the main difference between air rating a shrimp pond and a catfish pond? Well, Vernon always says the shrimp stays close to the bottom of the water, so the bottom of the pond, so there's less oxygen down low, so he thinks movement to the water that helps keep the oxygen from bottom to top pretty much the same, try to keep it the same. Right. Shrimp. Fish ponds, they just wear it right to them, so got those on Roy's, and they just cut off and on as the Roy's tells them. Is it true that shrimp need to be aerated in all sections of the pond? They don't like to train to come to the aerator, whereas a catfish would train to come to the aerator? What we can tell is that the whole pond needs aerations. Okay, and a shrimp pond. Yeah, and the shrimp pond needs the whole pond needs aerations. As much as possible. Right. As much as you can stand. We would agree that the oxygen on the bottom is more critical than the oxygen on the top. Well, I've never seen shrimp up one time, and we had real low oxygen content, and they came up to the top. Other than that, you don't never see them unless you throw a cast net and catch them. We're back on the Green Prairie Aquifarms with David Tucker Cottington, and he's going to show us how to throw a cast net. And the reason why we use cast nets on a shrimp farm is the farmers have to sample their shrimp about once a week to determine how fast they're growing, and that will determine how much feed they need to throw in the ponds in the weeks to come. And I'm going to let David here show you how to use a cast net. All right, there's a number of different ways you can cast net. I know one way. I've tried a couple of them, and this one is the only one I can do half ways decently well. There's, like I say, you can learn them different ways, different places. I use a five-foot radius cast net, because it's just about proper height when I take this thing out and stand it on the ground here, it's just about eye sight in front of me here. See, I can get it and grab it easily. You can get a six-footer that would be having to make me go up like that. This is a three-eighths-inch mesh. You can go a half-inch. I like a three-eighths because I can get the shrimp in the cast net earlier. They'll escape a lot through a half-inch, they'll probably escape through half the year, you'll probably get scaperage through it, so I'd say go for at least a three-eighths-inch. And a five- or six-foot radius length. All right, I just got to wrap this rope up here. That thing is down there. I'm just going to wrap it up here, just roll it up. You don't have to do it in any particular way just so that that rope will uncoil easily when you throw it. I just grab it by the neck here, by the throat. I grab it down about this point here, fold it over, grab it with my right hand. So I got that net ready to go. And then what I like to do, I just grab anywhere down that rope, put it in my teeth, and then I take about three wraps just about like that, keep it on my arm, and I'm ready to go.