 our Butterick 6386. So let's head to the cutting table where I can talk you through the first step. All right, let's finish off these sleeves. I'm gonna demonstrate one of them and then you guys go ahead and finish the second one on your own. So the first suggestion they have is actually really good any time you're doing a casing, whether it's a waistband or otherwise, but it's to take your seam allowances and to baste them along the raw edge or surged edge so that when we have our casing made and we go to insert our elastic, our elastic is not getting stuck into our seam allowances. So there will be four basting stitches going all the way around. All right, so to make the casing, what they want you to do is turn up your seam allowance of your sleeve along the fold line and on our sleeve pattern, which I don't have nearby, but the fold line is one inch from the raw edge. So they would like for you to fold this up, press it and then after that's done, then turn it in under a quarter of an inch. But as you probably know by now, we're not gonna do that. Just with this fabric, I mean, maybe if we were working with like a twill or something, it would be better, but this fabric is already kind of hard enough to work with. So we're gonna bust out our wash away wonder tape again. We're gonna cut two pieces of this, one for the front and one for the back and that's just gonna help us set in that quarter inch seam allowance. So cut two of them, lay it right on the raw edge of your sleeve opening like so, one for the front, one for the back or vice versa. I don't really know if this is the front or the back to be honest, it doesn't really matter. Okay, like so. And then we are gonna, at the ironing board, we are going to press this down, peel away the backing and then use this as our guide for turning under. Isn't that pretty? Okay, and then if the fold line on the pattern piece is at one inch, we know that they want our finished hem to start there, which means our raw edge will match up to the two inch mark. However, because we are already gonna have this turned under a quarter of an inch, it's actually only going to be one and three quarter inches. You're following that sort of logic and math. Similar to the hem that we did. You know, just calculating where the raw edge ends up getting lined up and then using that to mark. Because if you just mark on the fold line, you can't ever see that fold line, like once you turn it under. So I never do it that way. So we will fold under like this and then we will fold under again like this and that will give us our one inch fold situation. All right, so once you have your sleeve pressed, this is what she ends up looking like where the inside has that beautiful little quarter inch turn. It was super easy to do with the washaway tape. Go ahead and sew this very close to the folded edge, leaving an opening where we can insert our elastic in the next. So anytime I'm working on a sleeve, I do like to remove, I don't know whatever that thing is called, so that I can just slip my sleeve right over the edge. And then I'm gonna be sewing from the inside so that I can make sure that I'm staying very, very close to this folded edge. All right, so there you have it. I have my sleeve completely sewn and I have a little itty-bitty hole. Now I'm a little bit aggressive when it comes to leaving holes open for elastic. You might wanna leave yours open a little bit more than this. So now we need to get like a safety pin. All right, so we got our safety pin. We are going to place that into our elastic on one of the ends and then use this safety pin as a guide to feed our elastic through the casing that we just made. So it just goes into the little hole that we made. See, you don't need a super big hole. That's why I make them so small. And then just, you know, pushing that safety pin through the seam allowances because we basted the seam allowances closed though. It's a very easy process to get through that little section and just, you know, keep going all the way around till you get to the other opening, making sure that you don't lose the other end somewhere along the way. All right, so now the instructions will have you stitch these closed like this and then press them open. I prefer to do it like this where they overlap each other. To me, it seems a little less bulky and also a stronger seam so that, you know, whenever you pull on this elastic and stretch it all out, it doesn't, you know, ever come undone. So I just pin it like that and then I'll put it through my machine on a zigzag foot and then get our elastic into our casing. Again, trying to make sure we're not twisting it anywhere along the way. That will just be really uncomfortable in the end. So just get it all, get all the little gathers as even as you can through here and then we can remove all of these basting stitches with a seam ripper and then you're gonna need to stitch this guy closed. You can do that by machine or by hand. It's totally up to you. All right, you guys, let's make a hood. What do you say? All right, the first step for the hood is to stay stitch the neck edge of the jacket. Now, this also means it's a very exciting time because we are going to open up those stitches that are holding our zipper closed. This is like a very, very satisfying process. I don't know what it is about it, but I will take my seam ripper, I will place the red ball underneath the seam, working that in and then you're able to just no pun intended, but zip up through your jacket, little bit at a time and reveal your zipper teeth in there. It's so exciting. It's so exciting getting to this part. Okay, so now we've got a revealed and operable zipper should come apart at the bottom because it's a separating zipper. Okay, so that's the zipper. It's fully open, feel free to try it on, be able to spin, see what you think. But regarding the hood, so they want us to stay stitch the neck edge and I'm gonna open up my jacket just like they have the illustration if you're following along like this. So they have the jacket facing up, the zipper open like so and stay stitching as we went over in, what was that, the first video, is a seam line through one layer of the fabric at the seam allowance all the way around from between zipper stitching. Yeah, so you're gonna start here and you're gonna stay stitch all around this neck edge until you get to the other side. All right, and then while we're over there, let's go ahead and move on to the actual hood construction. There is a center back seam to our hood. My hood is already right sides together from when I cut it out. So we are gonna take this over to the machine and we are gonna stitch from this edge all the way around the top of our hood till we get to the front again. So go ahead and sew this seam. Do not finish the raw edges unless you want your serger stitches to show. You know, whenever you have your hood down, the inside of your hood will show. Even when you have your hood up where your face comes out here, the serger stitches will show. So they are instructing us in the next steps that I will show you how to finish this off. So this seam is not exposed at all. It's kind of like a mock French seam. So I'll show you that in the next steps. But for now, head to your machine, stitch this and your stitches, stay stitching on your neck opening. Okay, so once you've got your hood sewn, you're gonna press your seam allowances open. And the way that I do this, whenever I've got a really big curve like this, is instead of coming in here and pressing them flat like this, I will lay it just like it went through the machine and I will pull one of the seam allowances back. Pretend this is my iron and I will iron this one side back like that and it serves the exact same purpose as ironing them open and flat. So I've done that and now they want us to trim back. One of the seam allowances to a quarter of an inch and then press the other seam allowance over that, like so. So we're gonna pretend that I'm gonna go ahead and have done all of this, like the whole seam, but I'm just gonna show you one. So we're trimming this one back, right? And again, you're gonna do this whole seam this way. This is like this and now you want to press this over the edge that you just cut. Press it really good just like that. Then while you're over there, after this is pressed closed, like so, they want us to turn this under a quarter of an inch and press it again. So our seam is gonna end up looking like this. Feel free to add some of that washaway tape to this seam allowance. If you feel like that would help you get this turned under really well, go ahead and use that because otherwise I think you're gonna burn a lot of fingertips. Definitely a bit of a tedious process, but take your time with it and you can get it done. They're gonna be around this curve. There are gonna be certain parts that are just gonna like fold over each other in funny ways. Try not to be too much of a perfectionist about it, but I do feel like this is gonna save your fingertips and your sanity. So once you have that, then you want to sew from the right side, making sure you have your needle on where the seam allowance is and then sew a quarter of an inch from the raw edge all the way down the top of your hood. Okay, so now we are going to make our buttonholes in the corners of our hood. The exact same way that we did it for the hem. All right, so now we are gonna address this opening. It might look like we're hemming it, but we are not hemming it. We're hemming it at a later step in order to enclose the upper neck portion of our jacket. So all we need to do right now is turn this under a quarter of an inch. You can try and press that if your fabric is pressing really well, you can use the Wonder Tape if that is helping you out. I am going to go to the machine and just kind of baste this down and then pull out those stitches later, but I wanna make sure that I'm getting a really accurate quarter inch. So I am going to mark at a half an inch all the way along my hood opening because when you turn under a quarter of an inch, the raw edges match up to the half inch mark. All right, so now we are gonna go through the process of attaching this hood to the jacket. So now we are gonna take our jacket and all its glory and we're gonna lay it right sides up like so. We're gonna lay the hood right side down and we are going to pin the raw edges together at these different marking points. So we have the center back and we have the center of the hood. So those get lined up together. Then there is a marking about, I don't know, halfway. That is where the arm seam goes. So this gets a pin. And then we also have a marking closer to the zipper. And it's important to note that your hood is going to be longer than your neckline. Okay, so you've got those three points and then pin in between those and then repeat for the other side. We are gonna take this to the machine and we are going to be basting it together. But similarly to how we did on the front, we can clip the neck edge to our stay stitching so that there is a little bit more ease in the seam allowance to allow these two things to come together a little bit better. So same exact process as what we did for the front. You're gonna clip two, but not through the seam allowance on the jacket, not the hood. So now, whenever we stretch this guy out, you can tell, it's laying a lot flatter. So when we get to our machine, these are gonna spread apart, allowing our seam line to come together seamlessly, okay? So we are gonna stitch from the zipper teeth, from the edge of our jacket. And remember, we clipped all of those zipper teeth. So now we have plenty of clearance and we're gonna start our stitching off of that and then come all the way around and stitch off the seam line as well. Okay, so once we have our hood basted on, we can check and see if there's any bumps or puckers or anything like that. And it looks like I got mine in good. I'm also checking to make sure that the seam allowances are flat like I want them to be. And everything looks pretty good except for this one little tainty, tainty little error here. But okay, so the next step is to take our hood and we have a right side of our jacket and a right side of our hood. So we've got them right sides together and you've got this little overhang where the hood extends beyond the center front, beyond the zipper. So you're gonna take your hood and fold it back onto the zipper tape like this. And you're actually, it's kind of hard to explain but you're gonna fold it over along the zipper and then just ever so slightly, just give it a quick little, oh, like it rolls over, just ever so slightly. Like the teeth are still facing this way. They're not facing any other way. But you'll just feel it with your fingers. Everything just kind of like shifts over a little bit and that's gonna ensure that we get a nice, tight, clean line going up the center front of our jacket into our hood. So pin this in place and do the same thing for the other side. And then we're gonna go back to our machine and we're gonna stitch at a regular stitch length from this end all the way over top of the basting stitches we just made, all the way over to the other end which will be folded over as well. So that's the next step. All right, so now that we have that taken care of, we're actually going to cut away some of this seam allowance. So you're gonna be, and I'm gonna use this as like a little pointer, you're gonna be trimming this back to about a quarter of an inch and then kind of angling out from here up into this area. So here, I'll just show you with the actual scissors. So we're trimming all this back. Again, you're not cutting through any teeth or anything else other than fabric because we trimmed away so many of those teeth in the earlier step. So I'll trim back the other side and I'll grab, go ahead and get all of these like loose threads so that we are ready to go for the next step which is gonna be finishing our neck edge. In order to first finish this, we need to trim back the seam allowances from the jacket and all the jacket seam allowances are the ones that are clipped, the ones that are closest to the jacket and we're gonna leave the hood seam allowances completely whole. We're doing it like this one. Remember when we made the hood, that's the same exact kind of seam that we're about to make now. So let's trim back the jacket seam allowances. Okay, cool. And so now we're gonna go over to the pressing station, my ironing board, and we're gonna turn the hood facing over the, I'm sorry, the hood seam allowance over the jacket seam allowance which has now been trimmed and then now all of that is gonna get turned a third time so that we are gonna go to the machine and end up basting this down and then topstitching it after that. So we'll have completely enclosed the hood which I think will be really, really beautiful. So I'm gonna go to the ironing board. This takes time, it's a little bit tedious, try and save your fingers when you can and then I'll pin all of this in place and show you the process of basting it next. All right, I actually found that ironing process to not be that difficult. So hopefully you guys found the same thing. Okay, so we're gonna be basting from the inside so that we know for sure that we are catching the seam allowances in this stitch and then when we go to topstitch, we'll topstitch from the right side along the basting stitches so that again, we know we're catching. So I just have everything folded like it's supposed to be and I'm gonna place my needle right on the edge of that fold and sew all along this edge. All right, and while we are here at the machine, I'm gonna go ahead and talk you through this next step as well. After we sewed the center front of the hood over the zipper teeth, when you go to pull that out, now you have a complete center front with your hood but you can see that this is not finished on the inside. So we need to turn the hood to the inside so that everything forms one solid smooth line and stitch this down. So we're finishing the hem of the hood. Now the hem of the hood is one inch deep. So we are gonna take our marking tool and measure this hem. The pattern fold line is one inch in but obviously we don't want to force that if our sewing wasn't super accurate and we don't have a one inch hem anymore, we just wanna honor whatever the new hem is. So mine is coming in at 7 eighths of an inch. 7 eighths times two is actually one and three quarters. So this is where I'm going to mark just like I've done for all my other hems. This is where I'm going to mark and then when I go to fold this over the folded turned under edge will match up with that marking there and that'll be my hood hem. The last step in today's video is to just stitch down this hood hem. Remember mine is 7 eighths of an inch away from the raw edge or from the folded edge. So I'm just gonna shimmy this little guy over to just inside the 7 eighths mark. You can kind of feel the hem inside too. So you know where to go from there. Regular stitch length and stitch all around the front of the hem, I mean, front of the hood. All right, and there is our finished hood. Isn't she beautiful? If you have any questions about the steps I illustrated in today's video please leave them in the comment section below. If you have a photo that you would like to submit with your question, do that over on Instagram. I am at inside the hem. You can DM me and I will be able to better assist you that way. But that's gonna do it for me today y'all. I will see you all tomorrow.