 Well, my daughter's fourth birthday is coming up and we're going to have an astronaut themed party. And I wanted to build her a command center for her spaceship. My original idea was to use a larger tube TV that I have and build a wall unit in the corner of her room. Take a lot of work and a lot of space out of her room and I don't know how long she would actually use it for. Then I thought, oh, maybe I'll make something smaller that hooks to the TV. And I thought maybe about having a Raspberry Pi or a chip computer in there. And then I thought, you know what, she likes playing games. So how about I just make her a arcade controller, spray paint it like a silver metal color, create a astronaut game for her to play, but then it's also usable as a game controller for any game. So I have these game controllers that I've done videos on before that I haven't used all of them yet. A little joystick and a bunch of buttons. I'm just going to make a small arcade controller. And my plan is to have the joystick and a couple of buttons. I have red ones and blue ones in various sizes that light up one press. So I thought I might do some red and some blue. And I also thought that I would also not only have the game controller board in there for the generic game controller or USB to the game, but also maybe I'll put an ESP chip in here with a Matrix LED display that I can send different messages to and have tech scroll across the top of the screen here to make it more of a command center. So that's what we're working on today. So this is the basic layout I'm thinking of doing. Game controller over here. You know, a start and a select button up here. And then A, B, A, B, or at least four buttons over here with the little LED Matrix display over here. It might be cool to have the second one over here or maybe two in a row so the text can scroll. I'm not sure yet, but I'll leave room in both those spots for that. So now I just need to mark out where I want to drill the holes. Also, I'm going to cut these corners off at a 45 degree angle. And of course at the very end, bevel all the edges with a sander. Drilled one inch hole, which is how wide these are, but it's nice. I could probably force it in there, but I don't want to damage the button. The next size up drill I have for drilling the holes is one and a quarter inch, which would work. But then the button might be a little loose, although the screw on connectors might make it tight. I don't want to make the hole too big. So what I'm going to do now is I'm going to just get a routing tool and see if I can route out some of that. Because I would like these to fit really snug and not be loose at all. So let's give that a try. In the last clip, I think I might have said routing tool, which I have a routing tool, but I meant Dremel tool. So let's go ahead and put this little sander on there and just see if we can sand away just enough to let the button slide in there. And then we'll decide what to do from there. And there we go. So I'm going to continue drilling one inch holes and then just sand them out with the Dremel tool afterwards to make them fit. Because that fits perfectly in there. But in the last year I picked it up because I have all these tools. And although you can do this with a handsaw, it's very easy to get the angled cuts. I can go like that. It locks in at 45 degrees. All I should have to do is draw a line measured in from each side to make sure that the cuts are the same. But that should give me a clean 45. But if you don't have one of these, just measuring out and using a handsaw should be good enough. So I think three inches should be good. I'm just going to double check my measurements here. I've already drawn the marks, but three inches there. Three inches on the other side. And I made the marks on the flip side since I'll have to flip it over to make the cut on the opposite side. Yep, seems good. Safety goggles on. Here we go. Line this up. Should be good. Here we go. Be good if I plug the saw in. Ah, electricity helps. Things like this, you know, electric saws. There we go. We got our joystick, start, stop, or sorry, select, start. And some buttons for some gameplay. And our nice little 45 degree angles down here. This will be sanded down. Again, I have a metallic silver spray paint can I got for three bucks. And the only other thing I need to do, you know, besides mountain electronics, I need to decide what I'm going to do with that LED matrix, you know, is make an enclosure in the back, which is going to be a couple little walls. Might even be able to get away with making it square. That would be simple. And I'll probably put hinges on it to make it easy to access it in case there's any issues. So here's the back of the board. And, you know, I have my controller board here. The game pad emulator. So this is going to be powered through USB to whatever computer I hook it to. I could put it right there in the middle. But we have to remember that the joystick is going to go here, which is going to be our largest component. I still need to, because I can't remember which way is up and down and which way is left and right, because that would make a difference whether I mount it this way or this way. And it is rectangular. Hopefully it's this way because I just now realized that this might not get in the way of one of our buttonholes here. That's not good. And I thought I measured everything out. And this is my last piece of nice scrap wood. So hopefully we can pray it goes this way. Obviously for the games I designed, and I guess most games you can program the controllers either way, but it'd be nice to have the default set properly. If it went that way, I could put this board here. The buttons don't take up much space. Our biggest component is going to be this, depth-wise. The joystick is probably about an inch and a half deep. So I'll probably make my enclosure two inches just to give myself extra room. But run wires to here. And then I also, as I said, hope to put up in this corner here that's LED matrix powered by an ESP8266 development board, which I can hopefully power off of this. This has some 5-volt outputs. The ESP826 development board takes the USB in, so I should be able to splice an old USB wire, plug it directly in there. If not, if I need to go some other route, some ESP chips are powered off of 3.3 volt. I do have a step-down converter I haven't used yet, and I should be able to down it. So I'm hoping to power all this through USB to this board and then power the ESP and the display off of that. I don't see why that wouldn't work. I just haven't tested it yet, and that is why I haven't cut the hole for the display yet. But the ESP is pretty small, should be able to mount there. Again, our biggest thing is this, and I just hope that... Wait a second. Okay, so it's longer in one direction. So I have to remember, hopefully, if this is up and down, this is up and that's down. We're going to be over our hole here. That's why I didn't notice it. I thought I'd check that out. See, you never know. It looks like it's centered, but it's not, I guess. Okay. Well, it is all of a sudden getting ready to pour here. It is Florida, and it does rain a lot. And actually, hopefully, cool things out. So my SD card is about full on my camera here, so I think that means that I'm done for today. We will continue this project next week. Thank you for watching. Please visit my website, filmsbychrist.com. That's Chris with a K. There should be a link in the description. And there you can search for the videos from both my channels. Be sure to subscribe so you see the rest of this project, as well as all my other projects. I've got lots of videos for you to search through. I hope that if you enjoyed it, you might think about becoming a supporter over at patreon.com. patreon.com.com.org. There's a link to that in the description as well. And if you can't support that way, I ask if you like my videos to like them, share them, subscribe to them, and comment below. I thank you for watching and I hope that you have a great day. Yeah.