 Hey, what's up, folks? Welcome back to another 3D Hangouts. My name is Noelle Ruiz. I'm a designer here at Adafruit. Dreaming every week is my brother Pedro. Good morning, everybody. I'm Pedro. I create a tech here at Adafruit, and every week we're here to share 3D-printed projects, featuring electronics from Adafruit. That's right. This is where we combine 3D printing and DIY electronics to make inspirational projects. Hello, everybody. Hangout in the chat rooms. We are going to get started in just a second, and we want to get started with shouting everybody out in the Discord chat room. Good morning. Good afternoon. Good evening. Good night. Everybody hanging out all over the world. We are at adiscord.gg slash Adafruit. We're on Twitch. We're on Facebook. We're on Facebook today. Yeah, I think so. It does connect into the software. It's fine. I got a green checkbox over here, so I'm going to say we're good. I'm going to shout out to folks on the Discord. We've got DeWester hanging out, Andy Calloway, DJ Devin, Mike P. Hello, everybody. Ross Zinn and Vince Fark. Welcome to the show. Good. What am I doing? Yeah, we're going to do the housekeeping here. So we'll start off with adafruit.com slash re and find out what are the deals this week? Ooh, we got some updates here. So for orders that are $99 or more, you're going to get a free Adafruit noodle. That's the 130 millimeter long one, the warm white color one. For orders that are $149 or more, we'll get the Adafruit KV2040. That's that keyboard driver for making keyboard projects. For orders that are $200 or more, you get the keyboard, the noodle, and free ground shipping from UPS in continental U.S. only. And then for orders that are $299 or more, you'll get the free ground shipping, the KV2040, the noodle, and the BBC Micro V2. I meant to say micro bit. But adafruit.com slash free has all the details for that. And we also have a coupon code this week. The coupon code is 3DPCB. You want to put it in all caps and that'll get you 10% off your total order on all physical goods in the Adafruit job. Very nice. Next up, we'll check out the jobs board at jobs.adafruit.com. If you're in the market for a gig or if you're looking for someone to help you with your projects, check it out. We have some current listings out there. And it's a free service. So folks want to check that out. You can post up your profile or look for some gigs. So check it out at jobs.adafruit.com. Ready? And navigate. About the newsletter before you check out adafruit.com slash newsletter for all the latest updates on what's happening, what new products are added to the shop. And that is pretty much the intro. For the show. Yeah. So we want to jump into this week's project. Yeah, let's go ahead and jump in. A couple of requests have come in and Lamar thought it'd be a good idea to make a learn guide covering a PCB. Yes, so this week we have a learn guide that walks you through creating, taking an Eagle PCB. Let's say you want to take one of Lady A to PCBs and turn it into a 3D model. You can do that with Fusion 360 using the built-in tools. So instead of walking through the learn guide, I actually wanted to do a real one. So that way I can show folks some of the things to look out for when you're using the Eagle software in Fusion 360. I'll preface it with saying there is a specific version of Eagle that I like to use and there is a free download. I verify that it works with the free version of Fusion 360 and the free version of Eagle. And Autodesk does a great job of archiving and letting folks download previous versions of Eagle. So the version that I like to use is 9.3 and this download link here will take you directly to the download and it's for both Windows and Mac. So that's nice to know. Let me redo my screen so I can share the whole thing because I'm going to be bouncing between two pieces of software. So we're going to get in a tunnel mode a little bit but I'll try to quickly exit out. And Pedro, just let me know if I'm showing the right things or not. Oh, I was going to jump in. Yeah, ready? Yeah. Okay. We'll do the switching. Okay. Yeah, so do last year I was asking why do we switch up the setup because Wirecast sucks and we want to try to use StreamYard so I can control some of the aspects of the show. Yeah, totally. It's working out so far. So let us know how you like it. So I'm going to start off with looking at a product learn guide. This is a fairly new product learn guide. This is the Adafruit PCA 9546. It's a four channel MUX or a multiplexer. And a lot of these products have the same kind of format and you'll look at the right side here, the left hand side, it has a downloads page. And in the downloads page, Lamar does a great job of sharing all of her PCB files on GitHub. So folks will know open source is very important to Adafruit and having data sheets is one thing but having the actual source file for the PCB is really important. And just about like 99.9% of all of the Adafruit boards are on GitHub as a free download. So the 1% that does not have on there, let her know she will get that up there because sometimes a little hectic. So she may forget to put it up there, but it will go up if it is. I was going to say, I was going to say, definitely send a note if you don't see one. Oh, also folks said, you know, like we stock other people's boards and sometimes they might not have a PCB file. That's not, yeah. That's the 1%, that's the 1% I'm talking about. So anyway, I'm going to click on the link here, EagleCAD PCB files. It'll take you directly to the GitHub page. And you can see here, we have two variants of this board. So we have the non-STEMA version and the STEMA version. So that's good to know. And there's all sorts of links here to take you back to the main site to purchase it. But what I like to do is I just like to go to this code page here and hit download zip. And that way I get all of the source files here. So this is what it looks like. I already went ahead and downloaded the files. So I'm going to try to do the STEMA QT version. So when I double click it, it takes me into that version of Eagle, it's 9.3. And you'll see here that it is kind of a, I don't want to say it's a mess, but like basically all of the layers are cool. And what I like to do is I like to go over here on the right-hand side. You'll see this tab here called manufacturing. If you click on that, you'll get a preview of what your board will look like when you manufacture it or when you turn it into a 3D model. And you'll notice that it's kind of a mess, in my opinion. Like there's just a bunch of values and stuff like that. And the reason why that's like that is because when we actually manufacture it, we are able to turn off specific layers. But if you want to turn this into a 3D model, it'll look like this. So one of the first things I like to do is go to the layer settings, turn off all of the layers because they are all on. So there's a little button here. This is on off layers, turns it off. And the layers that I want to focus on first are four of them. You got layer 25 through 28. I will show those and you'll see that these are all kind of, they're basically just little values and labels that are kind of tied to some of the components that are on the board. So a resistor pack, a capacitor, they're all kind of here. And when you add things, when you add components to your board, they kind of are just a byproduct of it. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to select them all with the marquee thing, go to the delete tool, right click, delete group. That way I can delete all of those values that I really don't want. So now when I go into the manufacturing tab, you see it's kind of cleaned up. And that's nice. But where are all the labels that I want, right? Like the pin labels. Because when we look at the photo, you see that there are supposed to be some bits here. Like you can see that there's some labels for the pins. So where are those? Those are actually going to be on layers. Because this is a new board, Lamar is using the penguin when the script that allows you to create, allows you to import custom fonts. Pedro, I'm hearing an echo. It's really hard for me to focus. Are you still on your headphones? Yes? No? Maybe. Okay, I'm good. All right, now I don't hear echo. Excellent. So these two layers here, they're labeled penguin, T-place and penguin, B-place. So this is the top layer and the bottom layer. And unfortunately, they're not on the layer that the manufacturing preview uses. So you kind of have to do a little bit of adjustments here. So thankfully, Phil B. Paint Your Dragon made it so that there is a backup layer. So what we need to do is we need to turn these layers on and use the layer change tool to put these on the right layer. And the right layer would be layer 21 for the top layer and layer 22 for the bottom layer. They're called T-place and B-place respectively for top place layer and bottom place layer. So I'm going to start with the top layer. Again, this is layer 172. So what I'll do is I'll take the group, select this. So now I have it all selected. And I want to move all of these text objects into the layer 21. So to do that, I'll go over here, it says change. And then I'll say layer. And I want to pick the layer that I want to put these elements on and that's layer 21, hit OK. Now I have the change tool on. So I'll right click and say change group. And now all of those have been added to the top layer. And if I go to my manufacturing tab, there are the pins where I want them to be, where they should be. I close and we'll do the bottom layer next. So I'll hide the T-place for now, go scroll down. And I can show the bottom layer from that penguin script. So I'll grab these, same thing, do a group selection. Then I'll do a change, change layer. And then I want the bottom layer, which is layer 22. And OK, right click and change group. And if I go to my manufacturing tab, right here where it says top side, I'm going to go to bottom side. Now I can see all the things on the bottom side. And you can see that everything looks pretty good. There's a little bit of overlapping between the logo, the Adafruit logo and this multiplexer text. But I think that's fine. I'm going to leave it as is, because I want to make this tutorial fairly simple. And you're wondering, like, hey, this is green. It's supposed to be black. So under the cogwheel is where you can change all of the colors for the solder mask. It's green. So let me make it black by clicking that right there. Or you can play with the kind of color wheel thing here. I'll hit OK. Let me make it black. Another thing I like to do is I like to change the copper color to a little bit more lighter. I don't like that mustard color. But that's up to you. You can choose what color you want. But I like kind of this lighter copper color. And that tends to blend in a little bit. You can see the traces are actually kind of poking through there. And that's sort of the beauty of the thing here. The ability to kind of see your silk screen and have it mixed in with the traces here. So it looks pretty good. And the top side is pretty good as well. That's pretty much all we need there. And if we reference the actual board, that's pretty much what you're going to get. Here's the back there. So now that our PCB is ready, we can click on the right here. There is a Fusion 360 tab. And just click on that. You have two options. You can link it to an existing 3D design, Fusion 360 design, or create a new one. I'm going to create a new one. So I'll hit Next. Next up, it's going to tell me, where do you want to save this thing? I have a dedicated folder. So I'll select that. You can verify here. This will create a new design called PCA9546, StemAQT, in the Fusion project folder. If your project is going to hit OK. Here you can add a description for your push. So I'm just going to say 3D push. Why not? And then this is a list of all the components that are in the PCB. It's not a lot here. And then we'll map the components next. So hit Push. Now, Eagle is going to convert this PCB into a 3D model. And it's going to take a couple of moments, maybe a minute, depending on your internet connection. But when it's done, you'll get a nice little pop-up window that says, hey, your board was successfully pushed. And if it wasn't, you can try again. But normally, 99.9% of the time, it just works, which is nice. So while this happens, I'll go ahead and go into Fusion. And I'll just show off some of the boards that I kind of have done this week. So this week, I got some new parts that were generated as a 3D model. So here we got the IoT BFF that's got a button and a Neopixel. And here we got some nice surface-mounted button and a surface-mounted Neopixel. You got your cast-related pads. And the back here just kind of gives you a little bit of labels there. And then we also have, from last year, or last month, rather, the 0.54-inch 14-segment LED display. This one has the StemAQ-T ports on it. And it's got those lovely alphanumeric displays on there. So that is newly added to our GitHub repo. And we also have the SHT45 humidity and temperature sensor. This is really nice. It's got the StemAQ-T ports and some pins and some mounting holes. Silk screen on the back gives you an idea of what's going on. It's got this nice cutout for the temperature sensor. We also have the, this was a part request. So a community member requested this part. And I went ahead and made it. This is the three to five-volt logic level booster. And it's a pretty straightforward PCB there with the StemAQ-T ports. And the last one, this is the Pi Cowbell. So this is that protoboard that we used in your recent project, Pedro. The Whipper Snapper Pico project. So it just has all the pins, a reset button, and that StemAQ-T port. And yeah, all the labels that you need. So let's check in with Eagle. Eagle is still chugging along there. I was hoping it didn't go faster, but hey, that's what you get for a lot of things. Every load day or something. Yeah, it could be heavy load day. It could be because I'm like streaming. But yeah. Oh, I thought it was their servers. It could be their servers. One thing I like to do also is go to health.auto-desk.com. And that just lets me know if they have any scheduled downtime or if all their services are running or not. And it's a bad sign went up. There it goes. I was going to say it doesn't even load. No, everything looks all good. There's Fusion 360. Everything's working as expected. So it just takes a minute because it's converting it. And it's done. Quick question on the font issue. What was the font issue? Why does this happen? Yeah, the font issue is it happens because LamarLady8 has started using a script called Penguin, which is written by Philip Bergas, Paint Your Dragon. And it basically lets you do custom fonts. It allows you to use custom fonts in your PCB designs. So Lamar is tired of the default font that Eagle has and wants to use it. So that's why I have to use the backup layer and put them in the right layer. That's why I went through that kind of little hack there. But if that didn't matter to you or if you created your own thing and you use the default font in Eagle, you wouldn't have to worry about that. This is just me taking one of Lamar's designs and tweaking it so that I can get those labels on the silk screen. So that's why, because she likes to use that new script that uses custom fonts. So unfortunately, it doesn't put it in the right layer. And there's tools that you can use to put those fonts, those labels in the right layer. So that's why. But having said that, our PCB has now been successfully pushed to Fusion 360. I'll hit OK. And then this window here just lets you know that it's up to date. So if you ever want to do another update, move a component, you can just push it to Fusion and it'll update. Or you can do updates in Fusion and push it back to Eagle if you want. But we're not going to worry about that now. I'm going to go into my Fusion app. And then in the right folder here, I should see stuff here. Let me hit refresh. There it is. The PCA 9546 STEM at QT board. When I open it, you're going to see that the PCB is 3D, but there are some blank objects here. And the blank objects are basically the components that will be in the PCB. So to map your components, we'll go down here at the bottom. There is the PCB object and go right click and edit. Now I'm in the edit PCB mode up here. I'm going to drop down the window here so I can see all of the components. And what I like to do is I like to kind of hide some of the objects that aren't really supposed to be components, but because of the way we have library elements, they show up as elements that would be 3D, but you can actually hide those. So for example, these solder jumpers here are objects that don't need to be 3D models. So I'm just going to hide those and also do that to the mounting holes. It's just when you're creating library parts, Fusion expects it to be a 3D model, but in this case, it's just an easy way to get this nice mounting hole. So that's why it shows up as a 3D model. So I'm just going to hide those. There's also some test points that show up that don't need to be models. So I'm going to hide those. There's another jumper there. And I think that's kind of... Oh, there's a logo here that shows up as a 3D model. It's just the logo. And I'll do that to the PCB reversion number as well. This is the Stemic UT logo. I'll hide that. And it's looking a lot better now. This right here, I tend to not map header pins. You can do that if you'd like, but I'm just going to hide it. And then I think we have one more fiducial, two fiducials here, which help in the manufacturing process to register the board when you're picking and placing. All right. Now, the next thing you want to do is like, well, where do you get these 3D models? Well, you can actually generate models within Fusion under... Let me make a new tab here. I think it's under this right here, under the File menu, New Electronics Library. You can click right here, this button called Create New Package. And right here, you have this thing called the Package Generator. So if you wanted to create a custom header or a custom chip, this is a really easy way to create custom chips and headers. And headers, you just click on the thing and then you have a little user interface here that helps you customize that element, that component. So in this case, it's a right angled male header pin. And you can tell it how many rows, how many columns, and you basically hit Add and it generates a 3D model of it. So let me hide that. And then you can export this out as a step file and then bring it into your PCB. In this case, I just wanted to show you that you have the ability to do that. But a lot of the times, I will just download a model from DigiKey or from the datasheet from the manufacturer's website. Of 90% of the time, chips are already modeled for you. So it's rare that I have to draw something by hand. So you can collect your own components from various places. GrabCAD is another website that you can go. But I already have my folder full of components that basically get reused over and over again. So a good example would be these capacitors here. So let me go ahead and map one of these capacitors. This is an 0603 size and that's kind of like the format or the size of the component 0603. So I'm going to right click on it and say Replace Component Body. I have my little folder here of my parts. I'll just search for that 0603 right here. Here you are. And they have to be a step file, which is great because a step file is pretty open, pretty standard solid modeling format. It's a step file. So hit Open. And depending on how that model is kind of oriented, you may want to adjust it with these manipulators. You can move it up and down. You can flip it if you need to. But in this case, it's already in the exact spot. And the goal here is to map your component, move your component as close to as possible to the footprint. So that one's pretty much where I need to go. So I'll hit OK. And then these are some other capacitors here. This is a different one. This is a different size. This is a 0805. I have one here and that's a capacitor. I'll hit OK. And let's do something more fun like a Stemma QT connector. So under right here, JST SH4. I'll hit Replace Body. And I kind of have my name. I actually downloaded this from the manufacturers, the JST company. And I've already gone ahead and made sure that it's the right one. It's already in the right spot. I'll hit OK. I think it's added there. Looks like I need to add... I think these are... Let me reference this real quick. These are pretty much the same. Normally what happens is like one is the same. But in this case, let's see if we can do it here. So JST SH4 Stemma. Hit OK. And there you go. For some reason that was like a unique one. But now you can see that when you do one and if it's reused, it basically places it in the rest of them that are duplicated. So hit OK. And I got a couple more components to do, but I don't want to go over time here. So I think I'll stop it there. This is a nice one, a TSSOP16. I think I got one of those. Yes, I do. Let's see if it comes in right. Here's a good example of having to move it adjusted a bit. I'll line up the little ground pin here. That's what this little circle is about. And you can just... As you can see on the silk screen, there's a circle there that helps me orient the chip in the right spot. And then instead of using the arrows, I can just grab this little square bit and just kind of manually place it. You'll always want to revolve around and make sure that the pin is actually touching the surface of the PCB. And that looks fine. So hit OK. And we can just keep doing that for all the parts that we want. Yeah, but that's kind of how... I think you have another layer by layer that shows you how to use your anchors to attach components to the footprint you want. Yeah, that would be if you were manually doing it. You don't really have that option here in the PCB workspace. So that's one of the caveats, is that you kind of have to do that. If I wanted to, I could open this step file and move it in place where I think it should be and then save it out again. And that way, when I bring it back in, it'll be in the right spot. I actually did that with systemic QTs. Yeah, because, you know, it's up to you whether you want to... A little work in blind, yeah. Right, it's sometimes just easier to do it this way. Yeah. So when you're done, though, you hit Finish PCB, you could always go back, right-click, edit the PCB and add those back in. But at this point, now you can start using it in your design. It's got all the things. And if you wanted to update the colors, you can go back into Eagle and, you know, play around with the colors here if you want to make it purple or something. Or if you actually want to move a component, you can do it in Eagle or Infusion. And just that's the whole thing, is that you can edit in one place, push it to the other and go back and forth. QTs! They're like chewing it up back there. But that's in a nutshell with the line guide covers. So let me find out where I am here. There we go. A little bit back. Awesome. Cool, cool. And let's see, any other comments or anything? I think... Let's see. Get the font one and then the coupon code. Yeah, the coupon code. That's funny. Yeah, 3D PCB. That's the coupon code. Cool. I might get some echo. I wanted to try pushing the speakers. Hello, hello. You hear any echo? Hey, what's up? Hello? No, I don't think I hear an echo. No. Is this one better? Yeah. Whatever works. I start hearing an echo though. Yeah, I have the monitor open. Right, just switch back over. All right, cool. And that is this week's awesome helpful tip for making your own PCB. Yeah, totally. Oh, and thanks to Yanni for posting up the link to the Learn Guide for using the Penguin script for getting custom fonts. Yeah, that's good to see folks. They look beautiful with that in there. And it's a good way to differentiate, too, when people try to copy the board. You've got to take an extra step and then go through the hoop to get it. Exactly. Yeah, let me add that screen in here. That is the Discord. Go ahead and jump into this week's... What are we prototyping? I think we... Yeah, I think we're going to jump right into Shop Talk. Yeah, the prototyping stuff I was doing did not work because I got to do something more complicated that I don't know how to do. Basically just updating the Octoprint cameras to work with the new updated one. It's using the Sony IMX 709 or something. Yeah, do you have it on? Put it out. You got to like get Bullseye on there and then... Yeah, so it's a software thing. Yeah, I got lost somewhere in the middle of it. I can't... The way I installed Octoprint, it's headless so there's no desktop. I don't know my Linux command so I get lost. So I'll try to figure that out for later time. And then the other thing... Guess it's the prototype, right? There's my other camera. Just showing the... Got another lens for the other newer Raspberry Pi camera that came out. It's using the M12 mount and I will test to see how well the lenses that are available for this will work out. What I really like is having the inclusion of the tripod mount. So a case that we designed, we don't have to add that on there but we are going to add it on to the smaller one just because the camera bump is bigger than the previous cameras were. So we'll definitely have to update that and figure out a better way to mount these guys with the tripod adapter pieces that we have in the store. So yeah, you can definitely see the camera bump on that. I'm a little bit bigger using the stable. I think it has HDR now and... Yeah, yeah, yeah. Still like 5 megapixels but the Sony sensor should be a lot better. That'd be really cool to have an additional side angle when we're doing the time lapses. But yeah, we'll be checking out the M12 mount. That's how those are. The lenses are pretty cheap for it too. I think it was like 20 bucks. That has your aperture and your focus control. I think it was like an f1.8 or 1.4 or something. So you're able to get some pretty good low lighting on it. So we'll check that out. And of course, we got all the cables in stock. We have like a really long one too. A couple of different sizes if you want to pick any of those up. I think we're out of stock on this one. So try out the M12. Cool. I think you have a workshop too. Yeah, I was going to add one note. Like normally when I start getting to make a case for these camera modules, I rarely have to draw a 3D model of these. Like the community does a great job. Yeah, so I would check GrabCAD if folks want to make a case for it, like see if there's already a model for it. Yeah, I hope you're pretty proactive on it. Yeah, I wouldn't be surprised if somebody already modeled one. All right, let me see here. I'm going to go to GrabCAD right now and see. One thing averse. Or on thing averse, yeah. I feel like the GrabCAD community, they're a bunch of very proactive 3D modelers. Let me see, Raspberry. Eye, camera. And yeah, it's kind of early days. So yeah, I think so. That's why we get a, I was trying to jump on this now. Yeah, you'll see there's, yeah, that's probably the old one. Here's the HQ one. It's a different model though, isn't it? Yeah. Because now there's two HQ or high-quality cameras. Right. Okay. Yeah, we'll get to that. Well, yeah, we'll get to that. If there's, I haven't even looked if there's documentation on like the mounting holes and the data sheet. Like I don't know yet. But hey. I'm supposed to have some helpers. But I'm sure of course. Oh yeah, of course. Yeah, there might be a data sheet. Okay. Are we ready for shop talk? Go ahead and jump into some cool mounting force projects. All right. Let me queue up my camera. Where is camera window? Should be quick time. Quick time. All right. Here is my shop talk. So I got my hands on some of these pegboards from Ikea. And these are called the Skaddish. That's like the kind of name for it, the Swedish name for the pegboards. And it's a very interesting pegboard system. And I was, I actually wasn't really surprised that I was happy to see that the 3D community, the 3D printing community has already done tons of custom brackets, hooks, hangers, you name it. There's so much. So I get to post one every single week on the 3D Hangouts blog every Thursday. There's at least one or two. It's so cool. Today, Garrett posted on the Adafruit blog about some folks that he saw on Instagram that were printing this very bracket here. This one right there that I'm using for my lovely foot pedal there. So I've started to mount some of my favorite projects onto it. So over the weekend, we got this set up. And it's been a lot of fun being able to just pick wherever and come up with the different layouts. So you can customize it to your heart's content, really. So I got my MIDI guitar there, noodle lamp, etch a sketch, the game console thing, and my little 16 by 16 square new pixel display. The Raspberry Pi boomie box over there and that Pi badge thermal camera. So it's really nice that it's a pegboard style because you can modify it and customize as you want. So I started designing a little bracket because I needed to create a custom fitted bracket. So this is a three-piece design and it prints with no supports. And the idea is that I can now make a custom bracket that will go in between two of these. And then I can add... Yeah, so now I can have an extra set. I can put one of these. These are kind of the standard hooks that you can purchase from Ikea. And the idea is now I have something I can put in the middle in between the two. So now I can hang something there. I don't have anything here to hang right now, but you get what I'm saying. Yeah, I really like shelves. It's a really good idea. Yeah, so here I have a little 3D printed shelf that and it's got those manning holes so that I can add it to those 3D printed hooks that I have designed. So again, this is one of the formats. Really interesting one I saw. I'm sure they probably have one on one of the STL Spites or they probably sell it themselves. It was like a lid that attaches to a jar so you can have all your tools or screws inside there. I'm trying to find... Yeah, I actually have some tabs here. Let me share my screen and share the product page for the Ikea Pack Board, the Scottish. So it's about $28.99 US dollars. Here are some photos of it. Yeah, they come in different colors. You can get it in black, white, or kind of this brown that's more traditional to the pegboard. Let me go back to the white one. You can just get an idea of all the different things that you can hang on these boards. So yeah, that looks really cool. There's so many... Look at that. It's on the door here and they have all these... These are already made, but if you want something custom, like something that has a very specific spacing, you can just design your own or go to something like printables. You can actually print out one. I like this one because it has a data sheet. It shows you exact... And it's metric, all right? So you get very precise millimeters. Yeah, no conferring. So you can see it's 5 by 15. The spacing between two across are 40 millimeters. And then the staggered ones are about 20 millimeters. It's perfect. I really like it. It gives you the radius here. Super excellent design here by Makina. Makina posted this one up. And you can just 3D print a little one if you want. And there's a model of it. And then you can just search for scaddish and you'll see all of the lovely thousands of parts. I think a fellow designer posted... Look, there's some Lego adapters, little trays. There's one that has here. It is the collection here. You can see a really good idea of all the different bits you can make for your tools. I like that paint bucket. Look at this one, yeah. The paint bucket? Yeah, I love the paint bucket. That's a good one. I got to print that one out. It's going to take a little bit, but... There's just an immense amount. Yeah, I'm looking for the jar one that looks like that. Where the top part, the lid... This is just for a regular pegboard, but I really like the idea of how they had that set up like that. Yeah, that's cool. Yeah, this is in the imaginary room on the cruise. That was super cool. Oh, really? Yeah, I should have taken more pictures of this. Like everything, like all the walls. Like every little nook had like a bunch of pegboards on it. Oh, I see what you mean. Put it on the side of like a bookcase or any other like where a wall comes out and around and put it on the side. Yeah, I also got one of these are from Ikea themselves. So this is like one of those kind of trays. And then the idea is you'd slide them in right here. And that's it. So you can always create your own adapters and stuff, but Ikea already sells some good ones too. Yeah, so that's kind of what I wanted to talk about. I haven't played with this one. I really wasn't aware of it, but I really like this version of a pegboard, mainly because it's metric. I love metric, not a big fan of inches and imperial units, but man, the Ikea pegboard is really, really nice. I really like it. And a lot of my designs are very metric. So it's a nice way to kind of get even grid layout. So yeah, if you haven't checked out Ikea's store, definitely check it out back in Florida. It's kind of a little bit far away. So if you do visit an Ikea, definitely plan to stay there the whole day. They have a really nice area. Their food is, I recommend their food. It's quite the experience. And yeah, the kids love it too. The kids like the, you know, the Baja shark and all those kind of plushy animals that they have. It's quite the experience. It's so nice. I think metric is the light side. Says Taith. Welcome to the dark side. Well, if you're a woodworker though, you kind of have to use both. So I'll use both when it comes. Yep, can't escape the imperial. When you're in an imperial land. Basically hang out with my Ikea. That's a good idea. That's funny. Yeah, that'd be fun. Yeah, so I'm liking this, the spec board and folks definitely share their stuff too. And we'll post it up on the blog. Scatis sounds like a supervillain says Andy Calloway. That's funny. I don't even know if I'm saying it right. Scatis or skedish. I'm not sure. You didn't ask me to be, I would have asked somebody there. Yeah. Where is Ikea? Norway, right? No, Dutch. Sweden. I thought it was Swedish. Sweden. I could be wrong, but I thought it was Swedish. Alaska Garrett, what, how he pronounces it. Oh, nice. Yeah. If there's an Ikea on the way to visit relatives, definitely check it out. Sounds like fetish. To us. Yeah, that's a very clean way to do that. I was looking at it and I thought, wow, I could actually get rid of all, you know, both these bookshelves and just have. Oh, yeah. Nowhere we bought like just a giant sheet. We like actually had, it was like Home Depot, just cut it for us. Yeah. To fit it in the car. Yeah. I'm sure there's pegboard. Brackets too, but I'm telling you, metric is just why I like it. Oh, yeah. And I don't know. So the thing about the way the holes are staggered. Well, what about construction of it? It's probably higher quality than what we're used to. What is the Formica, right? Is what they usually make the pegboard out of. So it's like this. I don't know, actually. I don't think it's plastic. I think it's like a MDF. It's a high density MDF, I think. Yeah. But yeah. That's a good point. What's the material made out of? That's the thing down there with the Western Seine. That's nice, but I have pegboard everywhere. Yeah. We got giant sheets of this type of garage. I see, yeah. I guess it works out if you haven't got any, if you haven't invested yet in pegboards and you're looking for a new mounting system, you have options. You can check them both out if you'd like. I'm sure there's converters that convert pegboard to Skettish. I think I posted it, yeah. Something that converts, yeah. That's fun. All right, cool. Let's go ahead and jump into this week's Community Makes. This week brought to you by the children because I freaking love this freaking horror genre. Yeah. So this is a huggy-wuggy. The horror genre, they're freaking addicted to anything. The bendy, what are the other ones? You know all of them. The huggy-wuggy, let's see the other ones. The name escapes you right now, but I know what you're talking about. All right, there's company of horror shows and games and the freaking kid, the freaking three-year-old loves that crap. It's like, what the heck dude? So they wanted a flexible huggy-wuggy. Gavin is always on Thingiverse or printables or whatever. And as soon as this came out, he's like, daddy, there's a flexible huggy-wuggy, please print it. I'm like, all right, I tried a couple times and it was not an easy print because of the way that the support's on the bottom. It's like a very organic all curves and of course all of the chain link. If you make it too small or be a little bit too delicate, especially for a bunch of kids that are like throwing this thing around. So take a couple of tries and I was like, okay, this is too long. I'm going to have to make this into a freaking time-lapse Tuesday now. So, there you go. I said, I'll huggy-wuggy. I'm sure that I'm not the only one with kids who love this crap. So a nice, awesome detailed model in the Thingiverse description. I think Ender Guy says that he actually jacked this from one of the in-game models. So it's pretty accurate to what you see in the video game. And I'm guessing that the chain link is like one of those generators since everybody seems to upload a bunch of the chain link stuff. And this is just using acrylic painting and wanted to show how, not super detailed, but how you can get the eyelashes on there. And yeah, regular, cheap, 80 cent acrylic works pretty good on regular plain PLA. And one of the challenges for this was removing all the support material. So kind of like a shop talk in one of the support and removal tools that we like to use is this, and it's like palette knife for painting. So very common in like art stores where you, I guess, grab the paint and like sort of, you know, mix all the colors together. And just quickly, one of the things that you have to use for the support materials here is the interface layer. It'll make it a lot more cleaner, more easier to clean out. And here I am just using the flush colors to sort of shape around all the curves. And then sort of like standing it down. I'm using the palette knife to get rid of the little parts where the interface and the supports all meet up. And you can sort of curve it into the shape that's for that organic shape that's on the back there. And then the same thing for all the linkages. You can go in there and sort of, you know, smooth it out around the curves. It'll conform to it if you sort of angle the flush cutter. And yeah, that's one of our favorite tools to remove all that. And that is, I guess, the, what you have to do is the interface layer for that. You have, you know, roof and interface. Usually I don't like to use those just because it takes up a little more time. But interface definitely required for this to speed up removing and the clean cleanliness of it, especially when you're, you know, having a three-year-old play with this, you don't want them getting cut up with any of the spare little splinter, PLA splinters that are all over in the chat room. Who said, yeah, Andy Kelly? Yes. Sort of like a little spatula for. And I think they're on Amazon, but last time I looked, they only sold them like in packs of like 12 or 20 or something like that. Oh, give them out to your, to your friends. Cool. I mean, I wanted to quickly look, I wanted to quickly look at Cura. That's what you used to slice it. And under supports, you kind of have to enable it. So under the little settings icon, you'll want to turn on. Oh, what is it? Support interface, extruder. Or is that it? Other windows nice going up there. Oh, right. I'd have to share the whole thing. Let's see here. I'm sure you could probably get those. Stachelos at Ikea. Oh yeah, for sure. All right. So I clicked on under the support section and you're slicing. Just click on that little icon there with the settings, and then you'll want to enable it. Oh, sorry. Is that Mr. here? Late. Oh man, there's a there is a ton of stuff. I just looked at your interface. Type it in. Yeah, just type in interface and enable interface support. There it is. That's what I want. And you probably want to change the density. Maybe the pattern, the resolution. Not the pattern, not the resolution. The density definitely. I drop that all the way down to like three or two percent, depending on how much support you need. But even at three or two is a good job of maintaining all the layers on top. And it's still... What did you say for the density? What was your density? Three. I wanted to say three. Oh yeah. I know that's like oh my god, all these default ones. It's like 20. Yeah, it's too much. That's too much. So people have like fusion problem or you know, the parts all melting together and and get like a clean, pretty print off of it. How about the interface thickness? Is that okay default, 0.8? Default, yeah. Okay. Checking my stuff too. Might be different on this computer but... Yeah, these are definitely great to recommend like your values that you use for that particular print. But yeah, mainly the density, 20... It was at 33, which is bonkers thickness. Yeah, that's way too much. It's 4% what I have on this one. Ah, okay. All right, well three is good if you're doing a huggy-wuggy. And then speaking of which... Support Z distance, it's 0.21. So just a little bit higher above what the main layer is. What other thing did I change? How about the actual support density? 20 seems a little excessive. Oh yeah, that's... What other density are we looking at? The density for the interface. Oh, the interface is at... I believe I left that default. Yeah, that's default. Oh, okay. So this one, 33 was the default. I could always click this button here. It's the actual support density that you want to change to 3%. Yeah, that could be like at the top. Yeah, support density, it's like the... What's that? Yeah, okay. Interesting. It's like the eighth option down. Yeah, that's 4%. Four. Yeah, you usually don't need that much density, except then even with the infill too, the infill for this was like 4% as well. Because it's like, I don't need the kids to have this heavy thing that they're constantly throwing around, you know? It'd be nice and light. Let's see. Yeah, something like 8% or 5%. No, four for this one. Oh, four. Okay. Yeah. Cool. All right. That's a good base point to start with. And yeah. Let me... Kissy Missy. Yeah. And then brought you this regular brush to get the detail in there. And then the other thing too, like if you mess up a little bit, you can kind of see... Actually, I'm going to switch over to this camera. While I like the acrylic for fixing or for painting, you can sort of scrape away. So I had some... I can't even see it down here. I had some linkage and just let it dry. Don't try to wipe it away. If it is further away, like if I paint it over here, you can sort of wipe it away. But I just let it dry and then use an X-Acto knife and just scrape it off. And the paint will come right off. So it's pretty forgiving painting with the acrylic on the PLA. It's like the matte finish too. So you can like, I guess put like a glossy coat over. And I believe this is like five coats of the yellow because of the way the paint is, or the PLA was. It's about five layers of that. So that's the only difficult part for that. All right. And that's the speech for the time lapse Tuesday. Yeah. Yeah. I'll bring up the... I just put a link to the Thinkiverse file. So folks can check that out. Yeah. Yeah. A couple of photos of it. And this was made... Posted up by Ender3RGuy. EnderGuy. And there's some comments there about it. I was asking about a primer. I did kind of prime the eyes. So I painted the whole eyeball white and then plopped the black on top of that. Probably doesn't make sense since, you know, black is such a dark color. But you can primer it. Okay. And Tate is saying if the cooling is strong enough, would the 30% or more interface be okay? I've had bad experiences with the interface layers. That's actually why I don't use them as much. Yeah. Yeah. Definitely. Oh yeah. Yeah. Okay. So if it's still fusing, what that is is the... What is it called? The distance, the Z distance. Up that up a little bit. So I'm usually at 0.21. You can, you know, bump it up to like 0.22 if you're still getting fusing between the interface layers. So that would be... Yeah, that would be right here. The support. You can show where that is. Yeah, the support Z distance. And then you can even more granular support top and the support bottom distance. Oh yeah. We'll change that out. I think I can't remember what the default is because I already changed it on all of our profiles. Again, the same thing with that. It's like way too low. What the defaults are. You know, a question that is a printing relatable kind of printing since we use it for the printing. Photosynthesizer on YouTube is asking. We're thinking about getting the MacBook Pro with the M2. Any problems running modeling or slicing apps? Nope. Everything has been updated. That's perfect. Even the, that one problem we were having with the circuit python boot not going, showing up on the desktop. That is all fixed. Works perfectly. Yeah. Even the... I've recently... Everything has been updated to Ventura. Yeah. Yeah. I got to get all the computers up on that. Looks like there's a new update that's coming out in a little bit. Yeah. Also afraid that the new space mouse wouldn't be supported in Ventura, but it is. It's good. So yeah. Although it's at this point. I know. It's over. Come on. There's enough... Oh yeah. In a couple of months. There's enough professionals. I can sort of yell at Apple and be like, yo, y'all need to get on this. Yes. Right now. Okay. This is not a joke. It's for work man. Cool. Cool. All right. It's a model again. All that works perfectly. It's... I'm using an M2 right now and it works very well. I'm quite happy with the battery life is excellent. And the camera is really good too. Cool. All right. Let's take a look at the community makes, the rest of them. We got a couple of them this week. First up, we got another audit, the owl. It's nice to see audit still getting printed. This was posted up by BrickRiu and posted up. This is fantastic. Look at the surface quality on the owl. It looks really good. It looks better than the one I printed. So that's always nice to see a community printing better prints than you. That's always good. And it's nice turquoise color. Very, very nice. All right. Next up we got the planter that looks like the Boo from the Super Mario Brothers thing. And this was printed in blue. It's a nice little planter or you can hold tools against as well. I didn't think about this, but this is pretty relevant to all of the current events happening. Super Mario World opened. The movie's coming out. Looks like we're going to see a ton of these being printed out. Totally. Yeah. So printed in all sorts of sizes and whatnot. Those has a little tail. That was a real nice touch there. I think you designed this one in Maya. Yeah. Very cool. All right. And next up we have one on Thingiverse. This is a positive buy. I need to bring it to Super Mario World when it opens. Yeah. Make a hat. Make a hat out of it. No. A popcorn bucket. That'd be brilliant popcorn, but bucket. Yeah. All right. The next one is the Cyberdeck plate for the Raspberry Pi 400. This was posted by 79 Steven and they did a little color swap. Yeah. You can swap out the color. And it's just a great little mounting plate for maybe your extra boards. It has like these slots here and size for the mounting holes for the Raspberry Pi. And they got the Adafruit Cyberdeck, which has that jaunty angled headers that allows you to kind of mount it to your Pi 400. And they printed some 3D printed screws and rivets for their thing. So it's kind of neat. They said it works great. Used it as a way to try their hand at the two-color printing via slicing. Got it in red and white to match the Pi factory look. Don't have any M25 hardware, so I drew up some little rivets and zero tight fit washers to secure it all together. Very nice. Excellent print. And again, that was from 79 Steven. And that's this week's community makes. So thank you everybody for posting up your mags. Always fun to see other folks printing stuff. Now, don't forget, folks, do you want to order something? 10% off your order with the coupon code 3DPCB. All right. It's my cue to head over onto slash new. Let's see if there's anything new. Oh, looks like the OB5640 coming soon. Cool. Got a nice comment here from Photosynthesizer. Awesome. Thanks for watching shows and printing several of your models for projects. Awesome. We appreciate that. Thank you so much for the comment. Excellent. And then the question about that. Bezo Wiggy is asking, how do we dry our filament? They're getting a lot of stringing on their Ender 3. So the room that we have the printers and the filament in, there's a dehumidifier in there. So it's just dehumidifying the entire room. Yeah. You could DIY your own solution. There's tons of projects out there. And also you can just get a food grade. I got Amazon. That doesn't make any sense. Doing it with the food grade. Because then you're dehumidifying it in this thing. You take it out into your humidified area. You're supposed to leave it in. You're supposed to leave it in the dehumidifier. And then there's like a little hole that allows the filament to come out. Ah, okay. Yeah. Now I'm thinking like of the people who like put it in the oven or whatever dehumidify it and melt it. Yeah, that's a good point. Yeah. You want to keep it in the container that has the dehumidifier in there. And then you can have a readout, you know, that's like telling you what the humidity is. There's several solutions out there, but yeah. And the plain devils I have to pick it to and sort of process. It's like, okay, now you need like a bunch of these to hold all these schools. So ideally you want to put it in and then it's like you're dehumidifying it again once you take it out of there. Yeah. That's what I think the whole, just do the whole room. Yeah. Do you know how I know the entire room? Yeah, if you have the space. Yeah. Yeah. Just one dedicated printing room. Your container is your room. And that room is the container, right? Wow. So you walk in there with a hazmat suit and you're like, all right, I'm going to print. But now I think it stops at like 40% humidity once it gets down to that, which hasn't been hard. It's been like 30% humidity with the cold weather. Hmm. Sure, sure. Cool. Well, check those out. Vince on the Discord is saying that Polybox recommends Polybox. Polybox, yeah. All right. We'll have to check that one out. I think for small spaces, a Polybox makes a lot of sense. Cool. Yeah, if you're just using one or just a couple of spools, yeah. Yeah. Devon's asking how big is your humidifier that you need in Florida? It is. I don't have one in here. I could pull up what I've ordered. It's fairly sized. Yeah, it's roughly Amazon-ly. Just have to remember to empty the water bin. It stops at auto stops. Oh, that's a nice feature. So it won't leak. Yeah. There's like a little lever that once it gets all the way. It's like the bathroom lever thing. Got you. Yeah. That's nice. Mechanical sensor. It's always better. I think I've been copying my thing. All right. I think that's it for the show. Float switch. Yeah. Yeah, that is it for the show. We're a little over time, but folks are fine with that. Tonight we have, don't forget that link. He's working on it. Tonight. Nice. Yeah. Less pork upgraded. 68 ounce to humidifier. Excellent. Thanks for posting that. Well, tonight we have show and tell hosted by John Park. So be sure to tune in to that one. And if you'd like to join in, you can hang out in the Discord chat room and JP will post the link so folks can join in if they want to share some of their projects. Unfortunately, there is no Ask an Engineer tonight. Plans are subject to change. There might be a special pre-recorded video. That's all we'll say because it's kind of a little secret there. But no Ask an Engineer as of right now, but show and tell is still on. And again, hosted by JP. JP's workshop is also tomorrow at the same time. You can go to Discord and do show times, which I will do now. Question mark, show times. Oh, rather show time. There we go. And it's also pinned. Yes, I always forget about the pin. But yeah, all the usual stuff. So check those out. We have a show next week, same time, Wednesdays at 11 a.m. Eastern time. We've got some blog posts coming out tomorrow for the 3D Thursday. Every single hour starting at 1 in the morning. Get your hourly fix of all the cool 3D printing stuff that you can actually download and print. Not like posting too much of the story stuff. It's like, okay, I want to make the 3D Hangouts blog post about a thing that you can 3D print. Not a story that is like cool. Another printed thing that everyone's done. Like adapters and useful things that you can immediately print and use. More pegboard parts, please. That's the feel-good story, the thing that you downloaded and printed. All fair, all fair. Not the startup that's going to do the exact same thing everyone's already done. All right. Well, since there's no Ask an Engineer, I guess we got the today's coupon code. We'll work throughout the whole day up until 12 a.m. Eastern time because we're on the East Coast here. But yeah, fill up your carts. And if you want to keep sniping on the 84.com slash new, you will see all the new products that might get added. You never know. It's always like a secret. But that's going to do it for this week's show. Thank you everybody for tuning in. We hope to see one show and tell tonight. I think I'll be on there. I want to show some of this stuff off. I'd like to hear what John Park thinks about the Scottish if he has delved into the metric pegboard system. That'd be cool. All right. All right, everybody. I think I was going to make a pegboard mounting for the Scottish. Yeah, I think I want to do some Lego stuff, too. There you go. I think we posted about one that was Lego. All right. See y'all next week or later tonight. Bye, everybody. Remember to make a great day. Bye.