 Kind of a schedule I'm going to try to keep to so keep and just let you know kind of what I'm going to be going through and how this video is going to break down and work and today we're actually going over the Sony KV13M10 and what we're going to do is we're going to look at how to RGB modify this set. So what I've got for you is I've actually got the set here that I've modified with this RGB will go through that and then I'll get into that a little bit more but just want to get a quick confirmation. So if anybody's in the stream wants to leave a message, let me know. They can hear me verbally or my audio is fine. I'd appreciate it just so we can make sure that things are going good. All right. So I do think I have some confirmation. Things are good. So I hate it. Good to see you again. Belmont and everybody else in the chat and so just a note that I do have an upcoming live show. So if you have not been able to catch one because of the timing, we're actually doing another one on the 31st, which is tomorrow. And let's see if we can get anything saying a bit rates coming back a bit but we'll have to just says everything's fine on my end. So hopefully it'll catch up and the stream will catch up a bit. But that's okay. If it doesn't, I'm sorry to hear all that. So hopefully that stuff will straighten out on the buffering and I just freezing every couple of seconds. All right. So maybe just like hit refresh on there and hopefully it'll come back. But if it doesn't, then we'll see how the actual playback comes and hopefully it'll clear up itself as we go here and the video won't be too bad. Anyway, there's another live show coming tomorrow night where I have a special guest, our friend eight bit Esquire will be back and we'll be discussing the Neo Geo AES and I've also got some new AA V gear that I'll be unboxing there on the show with him. And so once that'll be tomorrow night and 9pm Eastern time is about the start time of that stream. It'll be here on the channel retro tech. So if you want to come hang out for that one, if you're catching this one on a playback and you want to come to that live show, look for that alert to come out tomorrow evening. Again, 331 and 9pm Eastern time. Some of the AV gear I have coming in is a bunch of these analog video generators and then a waveform monitor and this analog video. So I'm really excited to get that out. I've been researching more on this thing. It looks really cool. So again, that's tomorrow night. But again, for today's show, we're going to look at this Sony KVM 10 and it's a 13 inch model. So I'm going to switch over here to a different camera view. I'll be switching through some different camera views, but this is the actual CRT itself and again, it's a 13 inch diagonal screen right here and it's a color TV and what I'll do is before we even look at that, we're going to look over at some specifications on this specific model. Again, the KV 13 M10 and so this one is an American TV and it's according to the air American TV standard. So it's an NTSC set does accept antenna channels and the analog form from VHF UHF and CATV and there's ranges there that are pretty normal and it has an antenna input in the back and then there's a Trinitron picture tube, obviously now the power requirements are 120 volts 60 Hertz and then there is a Canadian version, but we're specifically talking about the M10 from the American US version. The only other thing on here that's really of any input is there's one video input on the set that's in the back and it has a mono audio input with that and there's a one watt speaker inside here. So nothing great for sound and it uses 75 watts when it's in use four watts in standby mode and that's pretty much it. There's a 20 inch version of this. So if you run across one of these and it's a 20 inch one this whole guide will work for that. There's some other things on here that will work for that. Now, before I get into the guide, I actually want to show you the set that I have modified here and we're going to let it power on for a second. I'll switch over to the main camera and the sets coming on. You can see right there video and so right now the video or the CRT is just in its standard mode. So when I bought this CRT this is how it would have come is just it would just have video and then it has basically RF you know or 75 ohm antenna analog video input back there. Hey Tony, thanks for the super chat and appreciate that. So we we're going to I'm going to first show you just how this thing works a little bit as it sits like what the inputs are and what it looks like because again it just has a single input on the back for composite video and then that antenna input now those inputs still do work. This set again is one that I followed a modification guide which will go through after we look at this set in action because I wanted to show it to you first and let you see what it looks like a modified but the great thing about this Sony modification on this set is that it doesn't interfere with anything. It doesn't actually cause any of the other inputs to stop working so there's really not much of a downside to modification on this particular set and there's quite a long list of these Sonys that you can do from this era that are great modification you know great candidates for an RGB modification and so the reason I chose this M 10 right why did I choose this one now this one is there's a couple reasons first I was able to get this one pretty cheap I did buy it and it came with this remote control which is the standard remote control for it and I paid $75 for it and it was in a store in Texas when I was down there last May I bought it the store had this one and a couple other CRTs I bought this one in a prison CRT which I haven't covered too much yet but I will in the future $75 for it so you should be able to find something similar to this for like 75 bucks that's pretty cheap I know that some people can find it for less than that maybe you can find one for free or maybe you end up having to pay a little bit more than that it's okay as long as it's working and it's good and you get to see it you know I'm comfortable with paying 75 to 100 bucks for something like this so that's one of the reasons the other reason is that it actually has a chip that can be modified believe it or not there are other 13 inch CRTs that are trenchons that look a lot like this only they're in like white shells or other different shells and those ones actually can't be modified for RGB they have different chips different buildouts different video chips that won't let you piggyback off of that to inject RGB through the OSD and the mod that we're actually doing on this set where this set has a good video chip that you can do all this with so that was one of the other reasons it was a compatible mod the other thing is is there's a lot of documentation on this one there's a great guide that we're going to go through here that's on Andy King's website which is the CRT database and it's wonderful so that's another big plus and something I recommend to anybody who's trying to do this don't try to figure everything out on your own if there's already a guide for CRT or if you want to RGB mod a CRT on your own try to find something that there is a guide out there for and some documentation on and some good pictures so that you can follow that guide and be able to do this on your own and hopefully if you come across one of these m-series then you can use this video along with the guide that I'm going to show you to help you get this CRT modded now as I said right now it's in its standard video mode and what I'm going to do is I'm going to turn on a video signal into it and we're going to see it on the screen okay so there's our warm-up screen this is the N64 EverDrive cartridge which is going through and it's actually just going through the composite video input on the on the back of the set and I'll show you the back of the set later on because I'll also show you the input that I added for RGB but right now you can see that it is in that mode for video and composite video and then if I just hit start and load a game on here it should load up revenge so I hope that it doesn't go and get too pixelated or too like crazy on the screen as far as flashing just give it a second and it'll probably update fine once it gets past something maybe I'll back the set up a little bit but hopefully it'll focus in there so this is just to demonstrate that you can use it in composite video mode even after you do this modification because that's what it's in it's just in regular composite video mode and and now I'm going to switch it over pretty quickly to RF because I can change this from RF to composite video while it's in the normal TV mode and I've actually got a composite I'm sorry I've got the RF adapter for the N64 right down here so I'm going to go ahead and switch that and then we will turn it over to channel and hopefully well unfortunately my RF just doesn't seem to be working it was working in my testing let me see if I can get it to go okay there we go so just as you can see this is the RF signal on this set and it's going to go past a little flashy things real quickly here you'll see all that again I'm sorry but once it goes past then it goes into the normal screen we'll try to skip past from that so it goes to normal load up screen you can see where we do have some RF interference it even shows up here the snow effect on our tube and we have a lower resolution picture but you can see right here that this modified set it still works in that RF mode so you can use it for the standard things that it does the only thing you do is you also get the clarity and benefit of RGB which I'm going to switch to next I just wanted to again show you that these things are possible so when I switch it into RGB mode the first thing I need to do is turn it back into that video input and the reason on there being is that video input is the way you're going to connect your sync line it's coming in through the same composite video line that the video is using that's where you're sending your sync you're just setting in a separate signal for your RGB colors and we'll go through that modification in a second but first I want to show you how this one works in functions we have it over here in our video mode now there's a switch here that's installed that comes with this mod kit it's right under this flap on this particular CRT model and all I do is I come in here and I flip that switch over and it will still say the video up top it will still say that and then I can click on another console which this is a Sega Genesis and it has an RGB modification done to it it's got the triple bypass and it's coming in straight from that output on there through a SCART cable into just the back where I have a SCART input installed in the back of this CRT so that's all how that works and if I load up this this should be yes the 240p test suite and we'll get this loaded up we'll pull up a test bar here that's not going to be too hard to see kind of get it toned down a little bit and hopefully I'm sure the dog is back back there mess with something I just noticed him on camera anyway we're so here's just the RGB in this now you will see you know that this screen does not look perfect and the thing about this M10 series it is very basic it doesn't even have a great set of menu options they're actually better ones I've highlighted a better monitor before CRT sorry this is a television but I highlighted another 13KV and it was a KV13 TR28 and if you want to go back and watch that video I'll have that you can just search my channel and find that one but that that monitor has a couple more options in the menus to adjust the settings this one's very limited on what you can just for geometry and we'll look at that after we kind of look through the modification in a second so I just want to show you this first though this one has been kind of adjusted and it works fantastic it has a really sharp nice picture especially compared to just composite video and RF I mean composite video on this set is a lot clearer than the RF and then when you step up to RGB you're really starting to see scan lines and definition on this set that you normally wouldn't see with the original hardware so this is again just a demo of how this works now as you can see on the screen if I need to adjust this set I can still do it with the remote and using the service menu which is something that you couldn't do if you did the prior mods that I've shown off on my channel and those are RGB mods from like three or four maybe in five years ago that I did on other sets and those did not involve the MUX mod which is actually a much better mod because you can then see what you are actually adjusting on the screen before you couldn't actually look at the OSD while you had it in RGB mode now you're able to do that and there's not really again any downside to this modification all right so now we'll take a quick second to jump over here back to the other screen and I'm going to get into some other documentation here that I have available and the first one is what I had briefly mentioned a second ago and that is the CRT database from Andy King and this is a place where excuse me this is a place where there's a lot of great information on CRTs as far as RGB mods and other documentation as far as repairs and different things that Andy's done on his side of CRT repairs so I highly recommend checking the side out and using it as a great source of resource or resource or tool for you to find any kind of documentation because for example he has the manuals hyperlinked here if you want a user manual or the service manual which we saw the end of the user manual a second ago and we were looking at the specifications for this CRT so that's a great thing and there are notes on this particular set and again we're looking at the RGB modification which will be noted down here we're going to go through that in a little bit more detail here and just so you know this is a very similar to the again the set that I covered prior on my last video and that will be linked in the show description after the replay is uploaded of live stream here and so this one's pretty much similar to that I don't think the modification is going to be any different between two sets and it just again like I told you has fewer features and fewer adjustable options and so the processed here is again tying into we have a nice picture of our chassis here this is the chip that we're kind of breaking into and getting our modification going from and into to get RGB that's the chip right here that my cursors hovering over and we're going to just go through this guide that was written up by six tanks slash Matt Ross thank you very much Matt for putting together this guide for everybody it's like the previous BA1 models BA2 chassis Trinitrons have a secondary set of RGB input pins on the jungle chip these can be used to add RGB capability without affecting the OSD the TV pictured is a guide for the 13M10 it should also apply to the 20 inch BA2 Trinitrons the M10 and the S10 so if you have a KV-2010 or a KV-20S10 M10 you can definitely do this modification to that set on these sets the jungle chip I see 301 is located on the A board near the tuner most of the work will be done on the section under there under the underside of the board so if I go screen stream down here a little bit more these are or this is the bottom side of the board where would be doing our modification or where I did do my modification now this is the first thing on the other side of that chip that we need to locate and that is pins 16 17 and 18 because that controls red green and blue inputs okay and you can see on this they're all actually connected on a loop so if you were to take a multimeter and put it in a continuity mode these are all connected on a ground loop on this particular pinpoint and then that ground loop is sent through this 10 k ohm resistor and that's where it's connected to the ground so all these are looped together and then it's fed in and it goes 10 k ohm resistor to ground okay so to do this modification we're going to insert our RGB signals we have to separate the three pins by cutting these traces between them on the PCB then the 10 k ohm resistor must be removed so it's quite simple when you're actually in there doing this to remove this resistor right you just get it and heat it up and get it out of the way the only tricky part is you need to get in here with a knife and carefully cut the traces between these three points so that they are not on a loop any longer they need to not be on a loop so you cut through the trace with an exacto knife and then use a multimeter and make sure that there is no longer a loop between the three of these colors and again the last thing you or first or last thing you do is remove that little resistor and this is what that plan looks like on the diagram from the actual service notes and the service manual okay then each RGB line must have a 75 ohm terminating resistor to ground and a 0.1 uf inline capacitor before connecting to the chassis blanking should be connected to a 5 volt supply via a 1000 ohm resistor and a spd t switch sync ideally in the form of composite video or luma should be connected to the rear video input left and right audio are mixing using a 1000 ohm resistor and routed to the rear audio jack so that's the exact terms this is a wiring diagram if you are using a SCART connector and it explains and those terms how this goes in and which pins on the SCART connector to connect to and you'll get to see a real life how all this works in a second when we tear down the CRT that we've already looked at here so again that's just how this works you're wiring in this SCART input but you could also decide that it will be better for you to use RCA jacks that's fine you can wire those RCA AV inputs or if you wanted to do a B and C input and put that in the back you could do that instead of this SCART input but you would still need to have the RGB signals go into that receptacle or input that you decide to use you need to have it going in there with that 0.1 microfarad capacitor in line and then you need to have 75 ohms resistor going from the that same line to ground so that needs to be done to make this all works properly so again here's a great diagram for you I know we're kind of getting into this and it might sound a little bit technical and difficult for everybody but we'll just try I should promise when I'd open this up at show to you it'll make a little bit more sense and as we go along you'll be able to hopefully connect the dots on here so this is a nice diagram that Matt put together where he found some great points on here that you can use on the back of this chip for ground and then see so you've got your cut traces that you cut the yellow stuff that you've cut and removed and you got your pins ready well then you can go and you need to have your blue input come to this point your green input to this point and you're ready to put to this point and then here are three ground points you can choose from that work well for that now also in this setup you do need blanking and you need five volt which here are three more five volts and then here's another plate with four ground connectors so there's all kinds of grounds you could use to connect this and again other five volts you can use to get the five volt power so you don't have to actually look around on the service notes up here from the actual service manual Matt's been kind enough to put that guide together right there so you can see that there so audio and sync signals right so here we've got our G&B we've got that figured out we've got blanking figured out we've got five volt figured out and we've got our grounds that we need for those lines well over here is where we're going to get our sync this is our video and this is literally just a connection point connected to this AV input right here which our RCA input right here which is your standard composite video input okay that's what we're piggybacking on to use to use this to get our sync in that's where we use that here some ground points this is our audio point so we'll mix together our audio like he said and we will attach one line here and then our audio ground here so that goes to our other audio input here that we're using the same audio input and the same video input we're using that video in audio one into our modification all right if we go down here follow along a little bit more we can see what we've got if I look up here and just refresh my memory we've got blanking coming in over here from the brown cable this red one's going over here looks like it's to a five volt point yes sorry about that so we got blanking and five volts right here then we've got red green and blue and then a ground and what's the orange one up there it's possibly a second ground yep a ground and a ground and then over here are the audio and sync connections so you've got audio ground and then composite video sync right here so that's how he wired it up and then on the other side he's got a quick connection point here for the connect to connect to that and then connect to the SCART input which is going to mold onto the back shell so this is a nice hole on the circuit board and then use a little glue to hold it and the thousand ohm resistor is attached down here to one leg of this switch which you've seen now on my set is right here on the front down here this switch this this is the switch that switched it from RGB to regular mode and that's how it works so that's the switch that is on your screen now and you can see that resistor on that leg which is the red line which is the five volt line and then the other line is the blanking line and it does not have the resistor on it but it's fed to the center portion of the switch and that's how you wire up that switch and then here's what the SCART input would look like if you wired it up and I know this is probably the most insane and probably confusing part to most people when they see is this but you just have to follow the directions on and learn how to read this and it tells you exactly what to do so you end up here but for the most part if we look at this picture closely we can see like the blue here in the green and then the red is probably right here I think and or maybe the reds the yellow actually cable on this pin out but you can see that little component right there that is the one point one micro farad capacitor that you put so you take your line you strip your cable that comes from say your green and your blue and your red and you tack in that or ten up the end of that wire and you attach that capacitor and then you can attach that capacitor to the input that is for example blue or green on the SCART input or whatever input you're using and then you take and you tie a 75 ohm resistor from that same point and tie that to the ground and this is all in a ground loop together so all these grounds are put together on a SCART input if you just have a single line you're going to have a ground to each if you have a you know your own inputs that you used if you're not using SCART so yeah there's a there's a good picture of that and then if you look down here this is how they were talking about having resistors on each audio so you're tying your audio in together into a single line where your left and right audio will come together because this set it only has a mono speaker so there's you don't want to lose the two channel audio but you want to have that fed in to the system so you have both those sounds on your set now here is an example of the positioning for a SCART input you could see right here next to the label is the alternative SCART location unfortunately pretty much have to cut a hole in this plastic to put a SCART input in I put one right here in the same spot that they did but I did not use bolts to put mine in I use a smaller formatting one and then I epoxy did into place and we'll look at that closer in a second and then here's some results of how clear the tube looks and everything and this is a before picture before the modification and then there's there's some after sets shots of the set and so that's the whole you know how this CRT works how this modification works so once you get all these parts together and you can do this modification according to this guide now that's another plus is this modification the actual parts for this are pretty much very cheap okay so you're going to have to buy a SCART input or whatever type of input you want to input your video signal from your consoles to this television you're going to need that and then you're going to need some wiring and you'll have to be pretty familiar with how to solder and how to build things but you know the components are just those small capacitors small resistors are common parts and all very cheap you can definitely get this done for less than you know if you're doing on your own less than fifteen or twenty dollars even if you're having to buy these from multiple places where you have to pay shipping but you could go to Mauser and get everything probably besides the SCART input from there you just have to go somewhere else to get the SCART input I'm not really sure about that one okay so do we have we can take a second here and see if there's if there's any kind of questions I'll just take a second to catch my breath I've gone through and I see that the chat spend just kind of a joint things and talking about some of the stuff that is important there and definitely want to be safe when you're doing this modification the good thing is you don't have to have the CRT turned on when you're doing this modification you do this with it all turned off and you'll want to discharge the set because this one is a consumer set so you definitely want to be careful and proceed with any kind of caution if you're going to do this if you don't know what you're doing and then maybe refer this job to somebody who does work on this stuff and knows a little bit more about how to work on these machines but see the next thing we're going to get ready to do is I'm going to switch over to an overhead camera and we're going to start to take this set and disassemble it that way I can look at the modification that I've done and we'll try to get some pictures of it and I'll show you as best I can how it looks in comparison to the notes we just went through on the CRT database and maybe this would help you know if you're really interested in trying these kind of modifications this will help you so again we do need to make sure we're going to be safe so I do have some tools here and I need to get some things kind of moved around for a second just so we can get a chance to actually move the CRT up on the workbench here because that's what we're about to do and what I'm going to do first is turn the power off on it and we'll return it to the standard video mode on there now there is an audio jack on here down here in the front of this set so if you wanted to go maybe even beyond something and not not actually put the RGB you know modification in the back through a SCART if you really create if you may be able to even do this with like a TRSS or some kind of input jack on there that you could then output you know a another cable adapter where you could have three cables going in one for red green and blue and then have that go into the chip and then you would just remove that old connection that had an audio input and that's another great idea and hey delusional good to see you and so the the that's another idea to go along with this set modification now when when I take this apart you're going to realize if you've seen anything that I've done so far before or if you've seen work from what I've worked on before you're gonna notice there's a lot less hardware inside of this set than there is inside of the normal PVM so basically the next step here is just going to be for me to kind of take this thing apart now before that I will take a chance to show you what the input board looks like on the back of this so it's a little dark there and hopefully it'll come back into view we'll get a better view of this when it's you know put back together or when I get it up here on the bench but if you look at it from there you can just tell I have a SCART cable up top and then down below I've got my audio and my video coming in from for composite and then above that right here is the RF so the good thing is like I say you can get a set like this if it's modified look how many inputs you could have you could have a RGB switch going into that RGB input and it would be just as good as anything on the sides of like a PVM as far as like getting you RGB on the CRT in 240p or 480i and the only thing you're missing out on is S video which is kind of tragic but still at the same time it's better there's plenty of S video options out there and if you find a set that's higher end than this M10 it could have S video and then you have S video on board which I did on a 27 inch CRT a few years ago so again that's what the input board we're about to look at that closer but I just wanted to show you that alright so we move the move that set let's change over to a different more appropriate camera angle there we go okay so just a quick look at this remote again you can get into a service menu it's very limited I'll pull that up later and show off a bit of that but we can get a good clear look at our input board back here so you'll be able to see how this looks a little bit better if I just lean this make sure I don't have anything on the glass and you get a good clean look at what the RGB swing that around and look at it like this way maybe let's see if we can get it's up there there we go so the first off that is our SCART input and this metal or me sorry metal this plastic is very very soft so it does not take a lot to get that spot cut out the problem is is this the the plastic is so soft on the shell a lot of times it will splinter and I'm not going to say that this is like the prettiest modification I've ever done I'll be honest with you it is absolutely one that I've I was doing more as an experiment to see how it would go because it'd been so long so I made one of these and I've never done one that was able to use the OSD so that's the SCART input and how it looks on our finished set if I try to lean this a little bit farther forward you'll just be able to see the normal inputs on here right down there our audio and video and our antenna input so that's what we're looking at now the way to get this set taken apart is pretty simple you've got a screw that needs to come out right here and then there's one on the opposite side there and then if we look up top we have another one here that's got to come out and there's nothing else I think it's just those four so we will go ahead now and I will remove these screws and well if I can get the right size screwdriver in there and hopefully try and actually use the camera because I can't see it directly so we've got one screw in each corner and there is probably no there's not a screw back here towards the input board so it should just be these four corner screws that one looks like it's good and gone out and well slide this around and we'll take out the other screws and there's that input board but I'll get these other screws on each side out and then we will take a look inside the CRT and we will be able to look into it and it's that is the good thing about these CRTs is there's not genuinely I mean it's the smaller ones especially once you get into larger ones they do have a lot more screws you need to be careful because you don't want to actually damage something by by forgetting to remove a screw you know pulling the shell off thinking you've got all the screws and then one of them still remains you can you can really damage something that way but the service manual will generally tell you how many screws are in there and how to remove the shell safely so that's another good reason to check out the website like the CRT database or any of the wikis that will have you know like the CRT wiki that will have information linked to how to get these things apart and that way you don't have to worry about breaking anything if they're about any trouble looks like we got that one loose try to lift this guy up and back there we go and the screws are falling out let's make sure that we get them all out shake a little bit put them in a bag here and let's see if you can see me here see I'm a switch the camera around this for a second so that you don't have to look at just the top we'll get it resituated with something a little bit more fashionable here in a second but this way you'll be able to see as I pull this backwards kind of what that all looks like and there's the four screws and so if we look here on our screen a little bit to the center here this is the mono audio speaker I was telling you about not that great but at least it's got something just slide this back a little bit because again I don't have that connection I'm not able to actually rip my my start input it's it's it's on like a cable where it's not actually unattached from the chassis right I didn't have a disconnect here in the shop again this was like a more of a prototype for me than an actual device I was trying to either you know offer for sale or something more of just a personal curiosity so let's see how this looks now if we look down overhead camera we can definitely see my messy mod here if you look here first check this out let's try this spot look at that yeah so I do always clean stuff look this is a good a good example of what I meant when I said I was just doing this is like a project so I had this leftover from another RGB modification kit that I never used and a lot of this stuff is just random parts I had left over you could see that's why each one of these capacitors looks different you got a big yellow one a big green one and a very small normal one so it's definitely definitely like a prototype so there's your inputs you know that's what that thing looks like when it's coming from that board here's that wire everything's wired into the SCARD input just like we saw in the documentation there from the website so that's that's what that looks like red green and blue and then I've actually got my stuff covered a little bit more with some shrink wrap tubing but that then goes around here to the bottom side of the chassis and you know we just saw this CRT turned on and so we're live right so let's see how this discharge will look right let's see let's have some fun so I'm going to go ahead and get my discharge tool ready and it's probably not going to have any anything happen when I do it but you're right delusional we should just go ahead and do it just because we're on live here today and we don't want to be the ones to actually have something happen so I don't actually have anything great to connect to on this chassis you know usually you have something good to connect to for a ground point there is some metal shielding on the tube inside of here but honestly none of this is that great I don't really like it so I'm going to actually connect it to like my earth ground which is wired up for my repair bench here so I'll be able to just connect that you know via this connection I know it sounds crazy but this goes into a strong earth ground and when I actually do have some repairs to do on a circuit board I don't damage the circuit board and causes short or something I'm always grounded so this is actually goes into a rod into the ground side attached to the house where the main ground goes so we'll connect to the main ground if we can get our little alligator clip to do that and put that a little bit give it something to connect to okay so we'll go ahead now and discharge this now again I don't anticipate anything to happen here but you never know you never know so we're going to go slip under this I want to make sure it's on screen here so let me change our view a little bit and hopefully yes yes that's better let me come back just a little bit come back in screen just a little bit and then we're going to slip this under this and I'm going to try to well I don't know if I can actually show it to you but do you see oh it's going to be difficult for for me to show you without I'm sure everybody's scared on the stream right now so do you see the metal bit it's really hard it's like a quarter inch under my thumb I'm sure you can see it now that's when I'm going to tap and we'll see if there's any jolt and that's where the electricity stored so no nothing no jolts thank you very much so that doesn't happen very often where you actually get a zap but just like that it's always better to be safe than sorry and you want to remember that even if something even if something does have electricity or you've already discharged it properly there's always a chance like a tube could re-energize so after go back and discharge that cap again anode cap like that and do the same thing with your tube at the anode point you can always come in here and do this make sure there's no current stored up in that tube come back later and do that if you wanted and that's it now it's safe to pull the chassis a little bit out and go ahead and do that take a quick look at take a quick look at this circuit board now again I don't know for how good this is going to look goodness gracious I'm kind of nervous to show my mud work here that's again on a mostly experimental phase just kidding so I'm going to slip this chassis up a little bit hopefully I won't catch the cable on anything and then I'm going to try to hand my camera around a little bit let's see how far I can get this out without actually doing any harm do no harm so I think that probably right there might be the best thing I can do and again I don't want to accidentally hit something and knock it out so these are the lines that are going from my scar input like I showed you in the diagram earlier I connected points over here for a ground and then the audio and then our sync so that's the sync audio and ground and down here is the modification point where I had to add the RGB the ground points five volts five volts and blanking right there and that's pretty much all there's to it that's what this one looks like let's see if I can problem is is my if I move this too much I move the blanking switch I don't really want to pull that out but that's down in there and I just had to drill a hole in the front under that sheaf to get that in there but that's I want to make sure you get a good picture that's what the modification would look like and then I just actually have a little tape up here where I was holding all that together kind of to make sure didn't shift or get pinched as I was putting it back together and that's really all there is to it this mod is completely reversible because I did go back and actually reverse this and make sure that it was reversible and all you have to do is just fix the tracing that you that you severed and then put the 10k ohm resistor back in place and you can put this CRT completely back to its stock mode if you really wanted to and you decided the mod was not for you even though I don't think that's an issue with this one as again this set has you're not losing any capabilities in here and that's that's really important so you don't actually lose any of your ability to display stuff you're actually adding an input so all around when but the problem with this set is something that we talked about at the very beginning of the stream and that is that you just don't have a lot of options don't have a lot of options when it comes to like adjustment on this thing I have a little bit of difficulty you got to pinch see this anode cap you got to pinch these two pinchers together gonna pinch those two points they got a kind of like squeeze together a little bit squeeze them together sorry I'm trying to get it on the camera and once you squeeze them together then they go inside the anode cap and like they slip actually in the anode cap so it's best to like push down against one side of the cap and then once it's secure you can tell because it won't easily be pulled out right won't easily be pulled out all right so the set itself is all put back together just so you can see some of the internal hardware again this is the chip that we've been tapping into right here we saw in the pictures earlier it's right here where my finger is and this is our tuner other stuff that's important let's see there's the power cord that comes in right here this is our tube on this model and I wouldn't say that it's like Sony's best tube but it's a good tube especially if you get one that you know is a good good shape if you do need to make other adjustments those are available internally but not a whole lot as I said before you can add conversion strips you can adjust convergence rings if you're extremely daring enough but most of the time I would leave it as it sits for those kind of adjustments there is some adjustments on the neck board over here that you can do let's pull our neck board off and I'll show you what those are we just pull this neck board back a little bit hopefully don't have to disconnect everything and what that is is focus and g2 voltage so if you think your screen is a little blurry then you actually have to come down here and turn this if you think you have a blurry screen that's the focus potentiometer now good thing is you don't have to use that side you could stick an EST screwdriver that's small in here and do it from the backside so it's much safer to do that but you could do that and then the screen voltage is actually your g2 voltage and that is something that you know if your tube is dying and you may need to increase that if it gets turned down by something you may need to increase it but most of the time you don't want to increase it too high because then it will you know actually burn your tube brighter and more voltage goes into it than intended and that'll shorten its life span so well that's not the right let's go back here yeah this is the set right so that's that's what it looks like inside we'll put it back together now and we're going to check out some of the features of it in that service menu because I'm interested to show you that and I'm interested to do a future episode about the TR 28 to see what kind of better features we'll have for that model as opposed to what we're dealing with on something like this because again this is a great set and it's a fun project but it is so limited on what it can actually do for adjustment that it's all it's it's a bit underwhelming for that portion of the CRT so there we go all back together seem to have everything good let's check the underside make sure nothing's pinched everything looks good this is with the bottom of the monitor looks like or the CRT so you can this is a lot like a breathe area right so it needs this area to circulate air and get these components cooled down on the underside there so thankfully these Sony sets if they're they're good they're exceptional to learn on and you know you should do all this completely responsibly because again you are dealing with a high voltage machine however these these sets are plentiful they do produce a amazing image and you can see how just a less than $20 worth of parts can turn them into an arcade level I mean PVM level like if you did this on this CRT or like one of the ones with better features and there's no reason to be obsessed with the PVM unless that you're absolutely sure that's what you want because PVMs require a lot of service work and so just like anything that's higher end there's a higher cost associated with the maintenance and don't even get me started on the broadcast level stuff like the PVMs I really don't think people understand just how much how finicky a lot of those machines are think about it with great power comes a great pain in the neck and that can't be truer than with a Sony BVM and some of them they are unbelievable machines but they are filled with hardware and constantly required servicing even when they were new and so now we're at the point where they're over 20 and 30 years old and so that's what we're stuck with is usually those require a lot of service work and so unless you're really prepared to get into that end of the swimming pool with the CRT it's just as fun to try to get these going to you know so I'm going to move this back to the bench over here we can turn it back on and hopefully I didn't forget to do anything because if I did the stream might get extra entertaining here in a second so you know maybe we'll leave this up here for a minute just because I want to see how it looks on this camera that we're on as opposed to the other one so we're going to go and we'll do straight RGB here so I've got Sega Genesis here Mega Drive Model 2 and an Insurrection Industries SCART cable make sure I give myself enough cord here so I don't just rip my console and drop it on the ground and there's the SCART input and then I just need to plug in electricity and we'll test this out and hopefully everything will be fine so thanks again everybody who's on the stream with me and if you enjoyed this and you sat through to this point please do me a favor and drop a like on the video as I said earlier I'm hoping that this will have some replay value to people as far as like if you're actually trying to do this modification I hope that they'll be able to find it but you never know I mean sometimes when you do things in the live stream format after it goes live it's very hard for it to stay from just like disappearing into nothing so we're going to power it on here sounds normal and I'll belt mine I'll hook you up with some stickers I've got to get actually another order of stickers so we can see that our CRTs work in normal mode of course I don't think our refresh rate my refresh rate might not cooperate it might not so we are to be no I don't think so remember we turned it off there we go back at it okay so need to get my controller and see what we can do yeah I think it's going to do a slow scroll on the screen it's really really hard for it to pick up a CRT live I'm not you know we talked to John Lennon on the podcast about doing this properly and I'm probably doing it the worst way possible exactly the opposite of what he says so we'll go here to our test patterns and that way we can really take a look at some of the issues that hopefully I'll be able to point out to you pretty much right away on screen yeah we're gonna have a slow scroll on this one and so we'll try to move it back over to the other screen because I think it was doing better when it was over here on this bench so let's just power it down and move it over real quick that way nothing happens so we'll just pick it up and put it on over you know I generally don't sell the other arson hang on so YouTube obviously provides a merch shop which is some you know you can see it generally speaking down right below the video here where it has like the channel information and things like that but I sometimes get some special stickers made and most of time I don't really offer those for sale that's just a gift when I have those I give them out about once or twice a year on patreon to any patreon member that was just on there I give them some stickers and those are awesome they have some really cool sticker designs but honestly it's been a while since I've actually ordered any so I need to make sure I get some new shipment in and when I do I hey Bob what's up buddy and I will make sure to let everybody know on a patreon message that hey the stickers are ready come get your free stickers that's generally how I do it alright so hopefully our screen will cooperate and we can kind of get a good look at our downfall on this CRT now the problem is is I can't get like a little bit of this screen bow away no matter what I do because again this is going to have very light lighter than usual adjustment ability and to just go further into that I'm going to show you a quick thing about it and that's right over here again on the let me go down here we're in the manual and it's get the sized up correctly and I'll show you how to exactly service your set so this is our remote that we've been talking about with this CRT and this is the way to use the remote to actually get into a service menu and yes when people ask a lot of these you do have to have a remote sometimes you don't well let's just see what this one says this is the only way it says use of remote commander can be performed circuit adjustments about this model so that's a weird sentence right so this is going to talk about a lot of adjustments that you can do to this set if you need to through the service menu menu a lot of this stuff is stuff you know you're not going to need to mess with on a larger level but on a smaller level you can do things like we're going to with the geometry so service mode procedure method of setting the service adjustment mode and needs to be in standby mode which is powered off plugged in but just powered off okay so we'll do that in a second then on our remote control we're going to do a procedure of hitting display then the number five then volume up and then power and it needs to all be done within a second so it needs to go back to back to back to back and once if that's done correctly the set will power on and we'll see this adjustment mode screen right here right here on the screen if we've done it correctly okay the CRT displays the item being adjusted press one or four on the remote to select the item so we can go press up one down or four to select the item and then three and six to change the data now we this is the most important thing guys if you if you do actually get into it and do this stuff you have to remember to do this last setting procedure or you'll just right when you turn the set off or unplug it it'll go back to the set it was before so you've get in here and you have to have to make your adjustments you have to press muting and then enter to write it into the memory so there's actually a memory in this set and you need to press muting and then enter and it will say service and then it'll say write over here like it does on the screen and then you got to press eight then enter on the remote to commander to initialize we might not want to do that part that might be going back to the factory original setting if we want to do the so we'll try this and make sure but I believe you just have to do the enter and write it to the system and then that's all you need to do now look here's this is the great thing you don't even have to know what your set is but you can sit or you I'm sorry you don't have to know what adjustment right off the bat and you don't have to go in there blind once you get into the service menu because here right on the next page it tells you what every selectable item is and if we just look here you're going to tell right away that we don't have a whole lot if we get in here for our especially our settings for geometry okay our vertical frequency and a horizontal frequency that's not something we're going to tend to need to mess with unfortunately it's not going to help us anyway so and that's not something that we want to adjust without specific tools for a specific adjustment you know you don't need to do that you can skip one through three here's the data range that it can go through here's what the average setting is so if you feel like your sets messed up in something this is like the factory reset okay this is the factory reset so without doing the factory reset you can get in here and compare what your set has turned on because some of these things could turn it to a different mode altogether and I'm about to do a future video I'm not I mean I've been thinking about it for a while about factory resets and how a lot of times they are messed up you don't want to do them and that's a different video don't worry about it thank you everybody and I appreciate anybody's been I see some people have been asking about how I've been feeling I feel great thank you for joining us today I really appreciate it anyway we can see on here that our most important stuff we're going to have vertical position it's going to be labeled on the screen as VPOS that's our vertical center that's an important one that we can use to adjust vertical center V size for vertical size we do have a linearity and a vertical correction which is another type of a linearity setting but look at the ranges on here ok please notice these ranges this is not a huge range you've got vertical center and vertical size those have a pretty good size range but when you get to the vertical linearity settings you only have 15 different settings pretty much or 16 if you include zero and then vertical compensation I'm actually not quite sure what that is but we'll see what it does it might not it could very well not do anything there is an asterisk down there set up value ok so that's the set up value is a 2 normally on this vertical compensation interesting so anyway there's a horizontal center but there's not even a horizontal size adjustment on this set and hey look if just like everybody in the chat saying right now if you this is invaluable data you can usually find in the service manual for your set you can get in there and about halfway through that manual it will give you this kind of information where it tells you how to enter the service mode if there's one available if your TV is older and doesn't have a service menu at all then it doesn't have a service mode more likely and all the adjustment has to be done internally by physical means so thankfully we have this setting or these settings that we can change but as you can see we're not going to be able to change our horizontal size so we're always stuck with a certain horizontal size and another thing is we're always going to be stuck with almost a vertical size if we think about that and we look at this properly because if we look at this properly and we want to have a good linearity on our screen or I'm sorry not linearity a good aspect ratio then this red box needs to have the same length here as it does here okay so if we're limited and we can only have it a certain length here this way then to match that length we have to match it vertically and so we're really only limited to kind of one good setting on this CRT based on the fact that we're stuck with that horizontal size and now look you ever see one of oops sorry you ever see one of these things everybody this is like to measure your measurements right if you go into a tailor or you go into a hobby shop you can get one of these soft measuring tapes and the reason these are nice is because they're flexible and you're not going to scratch up your tube when you go over here and make the adjustment or not even adjustment but if you just do check size on here so let's see here because to me this looks like this screen is a bit off it looks like it's not wide enough like the height is too long so let's take our measurement I'm looking at about seven at the most seven and a quarter there on the vertical side and then our horizontal size my goodness was I wrong look at this yeah look horizontally actually we're right at almost seven and a quarter so that's a lot of times where you have to be able to check this stuff as opposed to just jump it into it and supposing that you're you know the eye can be deceiving so let's go ahead now and we'll go back we'll turn the set off it's in the set is in our mode where we can do the adjustment and we can get into the adjustment mode right if we do this next part we're going to do what it says here we're going to hit display five volume and then power so I'll switch back to the main camera and we'll do that now on the remote I'll hit let me find all these buttons display five volume up and then power display five volume up power oops I missed the power button so let's wait a second display five volume up power alright sets coming on if I did it correctly we should see that service look at there perfect right so again we're in RGB mode so you can see everything how this mod with the way it's designed and using that muck switch where it's sending that voltage it's great because now we can we're not interrupting this OSD so we're actually able to use this OSD in RGB mode like we have now whereas if you did it the old fashioned way without that you'd have to adjust it and you'd only see that menu in normal mode wouldn't actually see that in the next actually you wouldn't see that service menu at all in RGB mode so that's one of the benefits of course to doing this style of RGB mode now we're going to use our remote control correctly remember we're going to need to use one and four to select an item one and four let's see okay so we're on AFC and then if we go up where there's our vertical positioning let's go back to the monoscope pattern vertical positioning right let's see let this camera get a second there to catch up and everything so vertical positioning right now we're at 24 our max is 31 I believe if we looked at our if I looked at the chart vertical position the max is 31 it's vertical position aka vertical center now to go up and down on this we're going to use three and six three and six one and four three and six so there's three so like if we go all the way up there's 31 okay that's not a good one but we're going to try to get that balance right in the middle right so you want to make sure that everything is centered that way and at the end of the day you're going to deal with the imperfections you're stuck with so there we go that's our first one we can try that's how it looks you can sit here and tweak that and then you can go to the next setting which is vertical size V size and we're at 32 on this one this one has a large the largest one of the largest ranges and that'll go up to 63 so you can really expand that size 32 right now I mean look at how much you could really walk that out who man you can get the worst aspect ratio of your dreams on this thing so let's not do that let's let's help Keith Randy sleep at night and get it down here to a regular range now if I if I look at the thing that's crazy to me it says the average data for vertical size the average data on here is 16 so that's what it's telling you if you went back and did like a factory reset on this you'd be stuck with 16 let's look what 16 looks like on the set I mean that's what you're saying it's like if you if you do 16 look how terrible that looks it's an example of the factory data really just not being good sometimes so there we have our vertical size and a lot again a long range that we can adjust on that but it doesn't get really that exciting after that let's see what else we can do we've got a vertical we're starting with an 8 which is right in the center because we can only go 0 to 15 so we're just over center let's go all the way up okay and then down this is extremely difficult to judge I want you to see as I sweep through this up and down what do you notice is changing I mean obviously the top and bottom are sweeping up and down on the screen that's one thing but what's actually changing on the screen well I'll just keep doing it you just keep looking it's not anything really much in the center of the screen it's these cubes up here or these squares right in this area those are expanding and contracting this size area of the screen is that's what it's working with and your goal here is again to try to make small squares as centered or I mean sorry as equal in size on each side so you can take your again measuring device and you can easily measure each access of this square and if it's in you know you're maybe with a set like this obviously it's going to be very difficult I don't think you can get them all perfect but you can get them within a general tolerance that the set is allowed and the best that it can basically do you're not going to make this thing you could recap it do whatever you want you're not going to make this thing look like a pvm or bvm as far as like geometry and controls you're never going to get to look like that because it's not able to so you can use these settings though and this tool guide to try to make some adjustments and get it to it's best spot and then deal with that and then enjoy it really that's all you really want to do on that so this again we're looking at the vertical linearity on here so I'm sorry for that little rant but this is also a time when I like to look at one of the older patterns on this and that is just the physical linearity pattern look at this real quickly hopefully the the sizes on this will you know this will look a little bit better on the screen there we go give it a second to catch up and again what I'm looking for is trying to keep these circles to look as round as possible including this large inner circle it needs to look as round as possible and these need to look round we don't want them looking like pairs or ovals and I'll show you you can see that a little bit better as I increase that linearity look at there see the top half of the screen looks incredibly well it actually looks a little squished like a squished ball right squish and that's the top end of that and then the bottom ends reverse you're squishing down here squish and then up here you've got you know an oblong shape and funny enough how that ends up being the best setting you're you're stuck with is an eight or something right in the middle because again there's just not a lot of flexibility on this particular model now we'll go on and go back to but that's just another thing you can use you can also measure the distance inside the here if you press that it brings up this crazy grid pattern over top of it and that's just one of those patterns I still like to use it's I think it's kind of been dropped off some versions to make space for the monoscope and other test patterns sorry about that went back too far so there we are back at the monoscope pattern then we will go through the next setting which is our vertical correction and it's called VSC so let's see what we've got there VSC zero, VSCO okay VSCO let's see what this one does we're starting at a four this one again is only from zero to fifteen at least it says in the manual so again it's almost the same effect right you see that not quite the same but the goal there is to help you balance out now this one actually does seem to have better controls over the center see how that's actually expanding more in the center it's not just the outside so that one you might be able to use a little bit better on this set I'm not completely convinced the unfortunate thing you'll notice and that is going to be the heart breaker for all this I don't remember what my original setting was but I can come back and figure that out later but anyway the problem that we are hit with now is that's it we only get with this set four, five, six, seven we only get six total geometry settings in the service menu that's one of the least you're going to find out there and that's one of the huge downsides to this particular set kind of talked about it this whole stream this one you can see only six adjustments the rest of the adjustments if we go up from there look at it you're starting to get into color now so you could go in here and use some color grading equipment and color grade this CRT and make it look better as far as colors are concerned because you've got then green amp you've got blue amp you've got green cutoff, blue cutoff, chromatrap sub contrast sub hue, all sub brightness so if your set does need some more brightness in increasing or anything like that then yes you can get in here and adjust all that but that's really all you're going to want to do is you're going to want to mess with this other stuff except for possibly sub contrast number 15 and sub brightness number 18 those two settings could be useful if you need to do a brightness gauge and I can show you a real quick way to look at that if we go out to another menu and you can look at some of these like color bars here and you're trying to oh that's going to look bad on the screen we'll finally catch it now those color bars are too much color on the screen but you can try to use a sharpness pattern you can try to use a sharpness pattern and you know just there's other patterns and I've done other things before I don't want to really screw everybody up but you can go in and adjust your sub contrast your sub brightness to levels using other tools in this test suite so I can't show you that on screen with the current settings on the live stream so unfortunately we won't we won't really do that but the last thing we will do is we will get out of this we'll get back out of this and we'll go and we're going to save our settings because I want to make sure I don't know if that was going to screw up this time you can still see some lines but anyway we'll make we'll do this we'll make sure we save our settings so we're going to do the procedure to save the settings it says once you're done press muting in the enter to write into memory muting is at the top muting right into memory muting press enter and that should be it muting enter it goes red and then it goes away again that means it's now in the memory so that's all you need to do now we can power it off and power it back on and it will go into regular mode and all our settings that we just changed are made and that is literally how you would go through and calibrate this one and finally like I said you're only going to get those um few adjustments there the worst is no pin amp controls so again you cannot fix like pin amp problems if you end up with one it's got just a standard setting and there's somewhere that uses I don't know it might still use the capacitors so if you have a pin amp problem your best option on this particular set would be to attack it with capacitors so that folks is a complete rundown on kind of what I had ready for this particular set what I can do is show you maybe something that would look a little bit cooler on the screen maybe we'll let it find a good I want to find a good thing that will run you know a good background but I don't also want it to be too too much it's got to be something that doesn't have a lot of bright flashing white in it so we'll let this load up and see if it looks any better we might push the CRT back a little bit give a little bit more space to try to focus on I'm not really sure that that will help any this is all new I've got new cameras and everything I'm trying here and so hopefully it will it'll look pretty good but as long as you're not too concerned with how that edge looks can make your set look good really good by RGB modern it I mean you're not going to again you're not going to perfect everything that's wrong on this screen but you know you will get a great image out of that after that modification is done so have an idea of what that hopefully gives you a little bit of a more helpful idea as to what this set does like what it looks like at the end I know CRTs are probably they're difficult to try to modify but film so you're not going to be able to see obviously the greatness that this displays in Perps but it does have very sharp image now and it just looks really really good and it's going to be the best way to get the best image out of this particular set the other thing you could do that I recommend with this kind of a set is even before you do what I did on this modification it's never going to hurt to go in and recap it but maybe you're not ready for that because that's a lot of work can be very difficult because you're removing components then whereas the modification you saw today you're not really doing I don't think you have to have the same level of equipment that you would need a soldering iron as opposed to like recapping it you need by a desoldering tool I wouldn't want to try it with that one but that's a CRT folks and that's the modification it's a full walkthrough on it I can't think of anything else that you might you know want from my notes but I'm open now if anybody has any questions over this or you know wants to talk about anything that I went through if you were here through the stream I'll be open to answer any questions you may have I think it's an amazing an amazing CRT it's very light it's easy to travel with it's cool to show off to people because again it looks super sharp it's like an arcade monitor at this point and it's really a great thing to do with one of these old CRTs that otherwise you know I don't know if you give it a lot of love or attention you know it's just again it's pretty much the base most base model that most basic model that Sony ever made yeah thanks a bunch guys I really appreciate you all staying here with me today again I'll hang out for a little bit longer what we can do is just you know if you have any questions feel free to drop them otherwise I'll just chat for a little bit longer because I want and if you came into the stream now this will all be re-uploaded on the channel soon and so will the live chat I've noticed it takes about a day for that to come back up so be patient there if you're looking for the live chat it will show back up about a day later after the stream is done but I do not normally thank you Belmont I do not normally offer this as a service in my shop and the only reason I want to tell you that is because this is very it can be a pain in the neck you don't realize how finicky these things can be on the consumer level I feel like this is an amazing project for people to aspire to but as of like right now it's not something that I normally offer like and sell or I might help somebody out occasionally but it's not something where I'm like yeah my goal is to RGB modify a lot of sets hopefully in the future I'll be in the position where maybe I could do that for people more often but just as it sits right now my time has to be spent doing other things and I've got too many other things going on where there's still a lot of PVM and higher in CRTs that just need to be serviced normally so that takes up a lot of my time alright let's get to some good questions Steve have you had to replace any flybacks for the D series oh man no I have not and that are you sure your flyback's gone that's the only thing the problem with that D series and I tell it to a lot of people you've got boards I have a dozen boards in there that you have to service and make sure they're going well and working well and then you've got the tube you've got to make sure the tube's got still some life left on it and so then you have the flyback right how do you know exactly it's really hard to tell when a flyback's gone out unless it's exploded like the one I've seen on the arcade and or there are you can look up some good videos I've never really had the thing happen like this but there are video effects that will show on the screen if the flyback's dying and it's more like a weird thing where it's not putting enough energy out consistently so it just keeps going and like going down in power and the screen would like lose power and pulsate slowly that can be an issue with the flyback so if you do have one though it shouldn't really be that difficult of a job for the manual part of it but I would definitely recommend getting into the D-Series whichever one it is the actual D-Series I would get into the D-Series service manual like we did today and make sure that there's not a process that you need to go through because surely there is for the flyback just to make sure it's not you know you don't want to send the flyback in there and have it pumping way too much voltage in just because it's sent to you that way so that's something I'll be mindful of someone else has a KV Mag excuse me whoo sorry guys Magnitar83 hello there I have a Sony KV14 T1D that's a horizontal line that can only be seen with the certain color backgrounds on the game through RGB do you know what that could be you're most likely looking at some kind of a component failure there it's either something and if it's color related you might want to check the neck board out see if make sure the solder is nice and good on there and maybe recap the neck board in the deflection area of your CRT and generally speaking that's the best you can do to clear up 75% of the problems you may have with your BVM I'm sorry your CRT in general generally they can be taken care of with a cap kit to the neck board and then the deflection area and the power area someone else a retired night owl recently picked up a KV9 there are yeah there's a different guy that's that's another thing you always have to like I said earlier you always have to check online and see if there's an actual great guide for your specific CRT what's available who's done it before if you don't find anything on a CRT that you've looking at and you're not technically minded I would skip it I would go and try to find one like this where there's a lot of good guides already on there something on where there's already a guide like there is to this one on the CRT database there's probably 50 other CRTs on there and maybe another 40 online documented other places that have had this kind of modification done to them so I would kind of recommend going down that route of trying to find one that is already good documented but that might be one of them spray food random you got a KV HS420 worked for two days and the picture turned into purple squares and tiny little colorful pixels you know it just depends if it's worth to repair it's going to be a pain that you know the more complex the monitor the more difficult the repair is and that could be a tube issue if you're losing color like that or very possibly a neck board again or even the input board where the color that usually you try to figure out what color is going out and then you're like okay if I'm missing green this is something I'm going to go through more with the waveform generator and the waveform monitor videos that I'm going to be doing when I get that equipment unboxed which I will be doing tomorrow night at 9 p.m. Easter standard time with my buddy 8-bit Esquire so make sure you're going to be tuning in for that if you want to get an early look at that but that will show you a bit on the color side because if you see like magenta that means a certain color is missing and cyan means another color is missing on your screen if you look more that means like you're missing you know yellow red so there's a lot of cool little tricks to color with that waveform generating and monitor that I think everybody's going to enjoy but then again is it something that you really love could you find another one in the meantime I don't know if it's something that you really want to try to work on there's no problem with trying to learn on it Sleek Goose had asked if there are any ways to prolong a CRT and just how to take care of it in general and there's always yeah you can take care of your CRT just like anything hey James welcome to the show if you keep it in an area you try to keep the dust out of it just like any electronic device you don't want to really try to get dust in there or pet hair so don't let your cats hang out on top of it or something don't leave an animal cage on top of it I don't know some people do some weird stuff with CRTs occasionally but I would just keep it clear there's vent holes on them try to keep that clear it's always good even if you're not capable of doing like repairs and servicing it's always going to be beneficial if you can open up the CRT shell and make sure there's not a lot of dust try to clean it up a little bit in there safely put it back together and once it's clean you know that's really that's really the biggest part about it is keeping it clean and keeping the temperature down in it keep it in a low humidity environment there are other recommendations for it but the main part is that I'd use it always use it with a surge protector there are some other general tips that you want to avoid like you don't want to mess with I had another Patreon member who was using a PVM and he was trying to use arcade hardware with it and I would always recommend using some type of stable super gun I've seen a lot of PVMs get the sink line destroyed by voltage shooting out of an arcade board so there's just some general tips though James are PVMs less bright than consumer sets relatively dim compared you know they do they should be by default I don't know I mean generally speaking I feel like default settings on consumer CRTs they tend to be high higher than what I like on PVMs or even any CRT I generally have to go in and tune down the contrast and brightness on most sets so I do feel like the consumer level since it's something that you normally had to get in they wanted to have that picture nice and bright so it more or less probably was a little bit brighter because you didn't want to open you didn't want to have to argue with a customer and saying the screen was not bright enough most of these consumer sets would have been an environment where a lot of backlight was being used so a brighter screen would make sense oh yeah once you get into some of them when you get into start getting into cleaning that is sometimes you'll open a set the worst can be if it was a smoker you know they those can almost be impossible to get every everything everything out of it as far as the smell is going ok meet bun asked a good question where can you get this guide or this information so you can go back and try to find some videos that I've done about CRT calibration is like a general speaking kind of thing or walk calibrate other CRTs that are like today where we just walk through what we did on this calibration but as far as like the documentation let's see what we're asking here uh guides yeah test pattern the test patterns are free gift from our team yo and the 240p test suite team and the developers over there where all you have to do is Google 240p test suite and it'll take you to the straight to the Junker HQ website and I mean this is the best program we're going to get for the price it's free you've got to go check it out I love the work that anybody puts in it's a community based thing a lot of people work really hard just like on uh mister and things a lot of people who work hard on getting these test patterns ported over to other systems I mean it's on the 32x genesis now um there's core or there's you know for each kind of console that are the major consoles there's a test suite for it and uh it's really one of the few things that our team works on that's just awesome he's a ton of tools over at the website not just that um a lot of other things that are very cool um on there so that's I'd recommend going to Junker HQ google the internet search 240p test suite and check it out I link it in a lot of my calibration videos anytime I use it I try to link it on there yeah there's not really community wide work to uh as far as I'm aware of to get um the question was is what about for plastics if you have a broken plastic the best thing right now is if you can piece together the plastic and I've done that a few times um you do that a few times so I'm reading some other things on here uh anyway yeah sorry I lost my I lost my train of thought because I started to read a broken plastics yeah I was starting to read another question there so broken plastics you can use uh different abs different cements and you try to piece that together and almost bondow it in a way and then you can even paint the shell if you're really dedicated but the best way it seems is to shape that plastic with some bondow material after you piece and glue that back together uh a lot of times adding little Lego pieces on the backsides helps and reinforce that I've used procedures that involve um actual epoxy and then others that involve super glue and baking soda and even in like uh other plastic specific adhesives uh you can look those up online there's tons of different things to use there but as far as there's a few things like a few uh bezels for pvms that are that are more likely to become something 720 test speed 720p for your hd wega that'll be fun ah which consoles do I recommend my favorite console to use is going to be the super nintendo each the problem is largely speaking each one of these uh crts has or I'm sorry each one of these consoles has some kind of a drawback where possibly some of the signal isn't coming in like it's might say it's some doing something but it's it's an analog video signal there could be something a little bit incorrect in it so you're adjusting to something that is incorrect uh but I usually find that comparing between the sega genesis one and the super nintendo one those are the two I use generally to adjust sets and then I compare them with each other and that's kind of what I use is those two there's two of my favorite and um the ones I'm most comfortable with now I understand it like there's better ones now the we one is an exceptional version of one I'm waiting for the dreamcast one to come out uh on a physical media that I've ordered from a company they're supposed to be sending it soon I don't know it was a pre-order I did a few months ago I'm like six months ago so I'm waiting for that one but I want to try that um so if you've got if you're using a we in your crt right now uh set up and you can get the rom over onto that that might be the best one is the we otherwise super nintendo and sega genesis are good but they have more really good no problem alright guys so it's 143 and now we've been going for about an hour and 40 minutes on the stream I really appreciate everybody who came in today thank you for the super chats and any of the questions I will see everybody tomorrow night on the next stream otherwise if you're coming in now and you're you're catching the end of the stream feel free to either go back and scroll back all the way the beginning or wait a couple minutes for to automatically re upload to the channel and hey everybody thanks again have a great rest of your day and I will see you uh with a friend here tomorrow night at