 Alright guys, so we're going to start off by taking a center parting. What I want to do is I want to split the head in half because I'm going to work on each half of the head, but I wanted to work from the occipital bone over. So that's just the easiest way. Most men's cuts you're going to create are going to start with a balanced structure. So sectioning in a balanced way works the best. So we're going to start off by taking a vertical section straight out from the head. Now elevation is the key to this haircut being in a form of what men are going to like. What I wanted to do is create layering, not too much graduation. So in the back, the occipital bone kind of bends down towards the nape. So what I'm doing is I'm elevating up higher than that to create that kind of at least 90 degree if not a little bit higher angle in the haircut. Everything's coming over to the previous section, so traveling guide across the back of the head and we're just working our way all the way over to the corner. So everything's just going to keep coming straight back creating that more balanced shape in the back of the head. Now you'll notice that I shift the way I hold my scissor towards the bottom section. That's just so I don't have to twist my wrist too much. That's just a technique that you'll see some people using just for a comfort thing more than anything. So working my way down. Now what I've done is obviously created a lot of length on the bottom. We're going to go through and cut that later using a different technique. So when I'm doing hair cutting I'm not always going straight for what I want the length to be. I'm working with the layers first, getting the layers where I want them and then I'll deal with the length later throughout the cut. So I'm keeping my body position the same. Now when I'm going through I'm scooping the hair. So I'm doing more of a backhand comb technique. What that's going to do is keep the consistency of how I've been combing the hair throughout the entire cut. We've talked about this multiple times every vlog on always combing towards your guideline. So my guideline is coming from the center or from the left. So I'm combing the hair towards the left to meet the guideline. Anytime you move your guide or you comb your guide towards the new hair you're shifting your guide from where it lives and you're going to throw off your entire haircut. So scooping that hair, bringing it to the guide and then just working that palm to palm technique the same exact way that I did on the opposite side. This is building our structure. This is really setting the layers in the back of the head. This is the most important part of the cut because if this is too bulky or too built up, too graduated, it's not going to look like a men's cut, it's going to look like a women's cut and that's not what we want. Or it could get moldy if we leave it too long. So really getting those layers right. Now a lot of you are probably asking well how do I get the layers right? How do I pick the length of the layers? I think it's just based on your guests. So just figure out where you think the layers are going to be comfortable and then give them maybe a month's worth of growth so they can come back in and get it cleaned up. Now we want to round off the back. I don't want to square it. The reason I want to round it is because I'm going to connect it to the back portion. So we started off, I used my DB20 scissor. Now I'm using my Chopstick Pro from Donald Scott. This is another I think $35 to $39 tool on free salon education. I love this tool for women's cutting and men's cutting. But this is where if I want to get in tighter to the head. So we use the carving comb and we're working with layering and texturizing with this. This is more for a precision type feel if you want to get really close to your section. More like a feather razor. So I'm combing and I'm working the angle across creating that horizontal line. And then I just shift into the corner and round that corner off. Which kind of gives it a nice hug to the hairline. So now I comb the hair in the direction I want to part it. That's another key thing that I like to do. I like to get the hair flowing and then go for my parting. Just keeps you from getting tangled up in the hair. And then I'm working diagonal back. So I want to start off, I'm going to find my connection point. Now this doesn't have to be exact. It's how long do you want the front of the hair to be. I want him to be able to tuck this hair back. So I'm going to go a little bit longer with it. And my strokes with the razor are nice and heavy because that's going to give me a lot more texture in the haircut. So you'll notice that a nice heavy stroke through there. It's going to give me a very point-cutted feel, point-cutted if that's a word. I'm going to go through there and just do those heavy strokes, create that texture. Guy's hair is all about texture at this length because it's not only going to give them a cool look, but it's also going to take out a lot of the bulk, which is what we want to accomplish. Now if they have finer hair, you might want to create some more solid lines in there because they're already going to have that separation and definition in the haircut. So just working the round of the head, diagonal back sectionings, following the round of the head. And the elevation is nice and high. Want to create layers. I do not want to create too much graduation. Once you get to the top part, like around this point right here, there's a little bit of graduation happening, but because of the heaviness of the strokes on the razor, you're really breaking down that graduation. You can see how the flow just works. I love this technique. Like I said in the beginning, this is a great haircut for guys that are trying to grow their hair out. You could wear this haircut until it's about down to your shoulders. So you would do the same exact technique, just keep working it a little bit longer each time. So flowing into the back, this is absolutely at graduation at this point because the crown of the head is our top point. So coming straight out off the crown would be 90 degrees. So we're at almost zero, but again, heavy strokes of the razor helps counteract the heavy density that might happen in the haircut. Same thing on the other side, working that diagonal back section, connecting it to the back portion that we cut at the beginning, heavy strokes of the razor, keeping that razor blade at 45 degrees. I've seen a lot of people in classes that keep the razor at 90 degrees to the hair, which is scraping the cuticle, and that ruins the hair. You want to keep that blade at 45 degrees. It should feel like you're barely cutting anything when you're cutting with the razor as you go over the hair. That's how you know you're doing it correct. So keep working diagonal back, heavy strokes, like I said, creating that texture, taking out that density that's the beauty of working with the razor. I love working in the middle part with the razor. The beginning I was building that structure, so you could do it with the razor as well, but I like building stronger structures for my base with harder lines and then going through and softening the lines over top of the haircut. I think a lot of people get caught up with the fact that, alright, I started it with the scissors, so now I've got to finish it with the scissors. You don't have to do that. You have many tools to do the job, and there's different ways of going about different things. So the razor is going to create a completely different look than the scissors, and they go well together. So now we're going to work through the top, taking horizontal sections across the top. The first one, we're going to work as our guide. Our guide is coming from the back to connect the front and back. Then I'm going to work that horizontal section, over-direct it to the previous until I get to the middle of the head. Then I'm going to over-direct everything all the way back to the middle of the head to create extra length in the front, so you can see that there. The reason I want to create that extra length in the front is because he's going to toss it back, and I don't want this haircut to look like it's following the round of the head. I want that kind of heaviness to flop over the top. I think that's what gives this haircut kind of a cool look. So over-directing everything back using a lot of point cutting. This is back with my DB20 scissor again. This is my favorite all-around wet hair, dry hair scissor. It's a 5.7 inch DB20 from Mizetani that we have on Freestyle On Education. Now this is the Mizetani Solid. This is my 7 inch scissor that I love for scissor over comb. The reason I like a longer scissor for scissor over comb is just the amount of hair that you can cut at the same time as you're working. And also the solid scissor, this is a brand new scissor, this is the titanium version. The cool thing about it is that because it has the titanium plating, it's even stronger and it just flows through that hair so fast. So even though it's a 7 inch scissor which would normally get weak towards the tip, it's not weak whatsoever. So really dig that scissor for scissor over comb. Now when you get the titanium plating, just so you guys know, if you order it on our site, it's a $50 upgrade and it takes a little bit longer to get the scissor if we don't have it in stock. But it's worth it. Now we're going to go through with the tip of the Chopstick Pro and just work the edge. This is great for women's cutting and men's cutting just to soften and create more texture around the edges of the haircut. Now I'm going to go through blow drying, just with my hands. Not a lot of drying. Now a big mistake that guys make is they put product in their wet hair. Now the products that are normally made for guys are water soluble so they rinse out easy. So if you put them in wet hair, it dilutes the product too much and then they just end up looking greasy. This so you get it about 90%, 80% dry and then put in, we're using the Rusell Blue Pomade which is just a really thick, firmer hold pomade. But it still gives a lot of movement to the hair and a lot of shine. So I dig this product for this cut. If I had the right hair, I would definitely wear this cut. I love the length in the back. I love the top just kind of kicked over. So I hope you guys like this cut. Definitely check out freesaloneducation.com.