 History is being made at the Shri Harmandar Sahib in Amritsar in northern India. This ancient shrine is more widely known as the Golden Temple, the spiritual centre of Sikhism, the world's fifth largest religion. Midnight at the Shri Harmandar Sahib, a transformation is taking place. This is the inner sanctum of Sikhism's world leader. For 400 years this chamber has witnessed a daily ritual of renewal that provides the spiritual centrepiece for the lives of almost 30 million people. Yet very few have ever witnessed the full ritual. This is the first time it has been filmed. After a dry cleaning called Sukkiseva, a select group of Sikhs begins streaming in. Only baptized or Amritsari Sikhs are allowed in this precinct. They will perform the Snanseva. They wash every inch of the sanctum with milk and water to purify it. Then at 3 a.m. the cleaning rituals complete, the stage is reset for the arrival of the Guru, Sikhism's spiritual leader. The Guru's minister, Grantiman Singh, heads to the official chambers in the nearby Akaltakth building to rouse the Guru. This is the Daily Prakash or Awakening Ceremony which marks the Guru's first entry into the day. But the Guru is no typical religious leader. Monotheistic Sikh belief centres on the concept of Waheguru, also known as Akalpuruk, a supreme being that's timeless, formless, omniscient and omnipresent. The supreme being's messenger on earth, a position handed down to Sikhism's founding in 1499 when Guru Nanakthiv first began sharing his teachings of history's great religious thought on which Sikhism is built. In 1742 the 10th Guru, Gobind Singh, changed tradition forever. In his final act, Guru Gobind Singh declared that, unlike any other world religion, Sikhism's 11th Guru and highest spiritual authority would not be a human. Instead, the 11th Guru would be a holy book, the Sri Guru Granth Sahib. Every day since, it is the holy book that has announced the Hukumnama, the order of the day to be followed by Sikhs across the world. Read aloud by the Granthi, the order reaches out beyond the temple's walls and travels across the globe. I understand the Guru's voice, what is the order of the day today, but it's not just the day, it's the order of life. Ever since, Sri Harmandar Sahib, the Golden Temple, has provided a spiritual focus for followers of Sikhism around the world. There's something coming from the sky and it's for everyone. There's nothing like Hindu, Muslim or Sikh. It's universal. But inside the Golden Temple, everything and everyone revolves around the holy book, the Sri Guru Granth Sahib. Its words percolate through the complex throughout the day, through the voices of Granthis. As millions make the pilgrimage to Amritsar's Golden Temple, behind the scenes, ancient and modern come together to keep the faith alive. Bender Singh Benarasi comes from an ancient lineage of traditional ragis, whose musical ancestry goes back 300 years. His ancestors sang Gurbani Kirtan, Divine Hymns, in the court of the 10th Guru, Gobind Singh. He sees no contradiction in using the latest technology to sustain the ancient traditions. It's almost as if Sikhism anticipated today's communication technology. The holy scripture is composed entirely to music. Played almost around the clock here, the hymns of Gurbani Kirtan are intended to indulge both soul and senses. The effect induces a physical reaction, leading to a deep spiritual experience. The Sri Haramandara Sahib in Northern India must confront a hard, practical reality that comes with the broad appeal of the welcoming Sikh faith. On any given day, between 80,000 and 200,000 visitors descend to the temple for holy communion. Langar or Free Kitchen is a concept started in the 1500s by the founder of Sikhism, Guru Nanak Dev. He dismantles social barriers by insisting everyone eat, cook and serve food together, irrespective of caste, creed, gender or religion. Today, Langar provides a striking example of the power of seva. Then as the day began, so it ends. It is 10pm. Inside the sanctum it is the holy hour of Sukhasan. The Guru Granth Sahib conveys its final message of the day. And it's time for the Guru to return to its chamber in the Akal Takth. Devotees collect along the Guru's route. On special occasions, spraying rose water and perfume is a mark of respect for the Guru. The holy text is installed in its chambers by the Granthi. But as one day draws to a close, another approaches. The Guru is eternal. And soon the Golden Temple must be ready for another day in the Guru's eternal journey. And so the ritual of renewal begins all over once more.