 and so along. Episode zero, episode one are already live on the channel. Hopefully you've seen those already. If you've missed it, I will have in the description box links to both of those where you can learn everything up until the steps that we're going to go over today, which are the casing, the skirt, and the pocket. So sizing, alterations, fabric cutting tips, and bodice and sleeves are what we've covered so far. So without further ado, we have a lot to cover today. I'm going to go ahead and take you over to my cutting table where we're going to talk about the casing. And then I got a lot of really great tips and tricks for pockets, and then we'll get our skirt sewn up as well. So let's get to it. All right. So our very first step in today's kind of set of lessons is to deal with this casing. So this is your casing pattern piece. You can see you just caught one from the fabric, no interfacing, and then there is this long edge that has no dots or notches. That's what we are going to be focusing our attention on first. I have my fabric right side up. So I need to turn it to the wrong side. And then the long unnotched edge is actually this one here that's facing up. So they want us to turn that under by three eighths of an inch. And guess how we are going to do that? Do you know by now, we are going to take that three eighths of an inch, I'm just flipping this around because it makes more sense to me to have it on the bottom. We're going to double it. That's three quarters of an inch. And we are going to draw in a line at the three quarter inch mark all the way down the length of our casing. That way, when we fold up our raw edge to meet with this chalked line, that will be our perfect three eighths turned up kind of little hem that they want us to do. So when you have your casing pressed, this is what it should look like. And now we are going to be able to attach this to our bodice and look how cool this little system is that they are showing us. So I'm just going to open out my bodice completely. And I'm going to lay it flat so that I have as much of my waist seam exposed as possible. Now we are going to take our casing. We are going to lay it wrong sides together. So this is the inside of my bodice. This is the inside of my casing and those two things get matched up together. Now it's just a matter of matching up all of our raw edges and our notches and dots and everything else that they have provided for us to help make sure that this is even. All right. And once you have all of your notches and dots matching, you can come in here and fill this in a little bit if you want. So the next few steps are all going to be to create the sort of channels for our elastic. So what they want us to do is to sew a straight line. Well, first of all, you're going to baste this. So baste this down. And then I'm going to use that to make sure that this casing is nice and flat and come over here and stitch this side down. So you're going to have basting here, stitching here, securing the casing completely. Then you're going to come in and you are going to stitch along the dashed stitching line. So the best way for me to do that, and I'll show you more at the machine, is to go ahead and put a little notch into the casing and then I'll be able to measure from one edge or the other so that I have an even stitching line all the way across. So let's head to the machine and I'll show you how to get all of this stitched down perfectly. Okay, so our first step is going to be pinging up our stitch length to the largest one there is, mine's 5.0. And then we are going to run that raw edge through the machine at our 5 eighths inch seam allowance. All right, so that is basted together. We're going to ping back down to our regular stitch length. Okay, so now putting the garment back through the machine again at a regular stitch length, what we're going for here is to make sure that the placket is nice and flat. We have the basting stitches as an anchor and we just want to smooth this out and get it into our machine. And we're going to stitch very, very close to the folded edge that we have here. And just go nice and slow and just make sure that the casing is laying fat flat and that nothing is bubbling up or shifting too, too much. Okay, so now we have our casing attached. So you can see here we have like a little hole. But since we have two rows of elastic going into this casing, we need to sew another row of stitches in the middle so that it provides two channels for our two elastics. And as I showed you before, I made a little marking, goodness, I made a little marking where the stitching line begins on the casing piece. So you can see that here, see that little notch there. So I know that that is where my stitching line for the other elastic should be. If you forget to cut this, it's also half the distance between your basting stitches and the folded edge of your casing. So I'm going to put this in my machine, dropping my needle right where that notch is. And I can see that my basting stitches are lining up with the one inch mark. And my raw edge is lining up with the four centimeter mark. So I am just going to follow that four centimeter mark all the way down, making sure that it stays in line all the way down. And as I'm coming down to the other end, I'm noticing that my needle is still in line with that little notch that I put into the casing. So we have two one inch channels. Obviously if you don't like this method and you want, I just don't like to draw on my fabric if I can help it. So this was a way for me to not have to chalk onto my fabric and then worry about if it's going to come out, if it's going to be visible, all of that kind of stuff. So we have our beautiful casing and now it's time to work on our skirt. So I have done just a teeny bit of prep work. And that is just to finish off the kind of like bottom half of the pocket. So you're going to want to surge or however you're finishing your raw edges, you're going to want to do that along this bottom edge, stopping somewhere before your notch. I know it looks a little bit funny now, but I promise this will all make sense later. So go ahead and do that. And then our next step is to apply these pockets to our garments. So if you cut out self fabric and aligning fabric like I did, then there's a right way and a wrong way to apply like which pocket goes where. So this is my back pattern piece. The back pattern piece is what gets the self fabric. So you were going to lay these down, right sides together, matching up your waistband raw edge and the circles and dots and notches and all that stuff that we put into the side seam. Same thing for the other side of the back pocket piece. It is the raw edge, notches, dots, all of that stuff lined up here. And then you're going to stitch this on at a three eighths inch seam allowance, then take it to your serger or however you're finishing your garment and go ahead and surge off this entire raw edge as well. All right, so that's the step for the back. Then as you can imagine, the same exact thing happens for the front, except the front gets the lining fabric. Now it's also pretty important to identify which is the center front and which is your side seams. That'll make it a little bit easier for you, but obviously you still have those notches and dots in the in the cut edge as well. So this one goes here and this one goes here. And again, we're stitching at three eighths inch seam allowance and then we're finishing off the raw edges. Front skirt pieces, there's two of them, and your one back piece that is cut on the fold. We're still over here at the machine. I'm going to talk you through step 10, which is under stitching. Now this is not something I normally see in pattern pocket construction. So I'm a little bit excited, but also kind of like, is this really necessary? But we're going to do it anyways, because that's what the instructions say to do. So I like to do my under stitching with the right side spacing up. Basically you have your seam allowances and your pocket is turned over top of the seam allowances. So it's pocket piece, then your seam allowances are under it right here, meaning the seam allowances are not turned underneath the skirt, which would look like that. Instead, they're turned underneath the pocket, which would look like this. And we are going to stitch right along that seam line right between the teal and the navy. When you're done, it looks like this, right? And then on the back side, you have basically your seam allowances stitched to the pocket that is under stitching. Okay, so the next step is to attach the front and the back together. So I'm going to show you one side and then you guys can just kind of rinse and repeat for the other side. All right, so what we want to do is line up. I've got my back skirt face up, my front skirt face down. So we're matching up the side seams, which is what we just sewed, right? So I've got those serger stitches right on top of each other here. And then we need to come down and it's a little bit hard to see now because we've serged and we've under stitched. If you need to keep your pocket piece handy and you can identify where the big circle is and you just want to put a pin in that because that is where we're going to be stopping our stitching along the top portion of this. We're going to do the same thing at the bottom. We're going to align the side seams. And then we are going to mark where that that dot is just so we know where to start our stitching down here. So when we get to our machine, we're going to start sewing at the waist seam and we are going to stitch down to that big dot. But we are not stitching like what is your seam allowance, right? It's very confusing. So because we already stitched the pocket to the skirt at a three eighths inch seam allowance, that is what this row, like the most inside edge of my serger stitching, that is the three eighths inch mark. So we need to come one quarter inch outside of that. And that would have given us our five eighths inch seam allowance. So you take the three eighths plus one quarter that equals five eighths. So this little portion here is going to get one quarter inch outside the serger stitches. Then we're going to do the same thing down here where we are going to start at the hem of the skirt. Again sewing at that quarter inch from the edge of those serger stitches. And we are going to sew all the way up to the other big circle where I pinned this here. We're going to back stitch at both big circles just to make sure that they are nice and secure and never come undone. So we're going to do that for the left side and the right side of the skirt. And then while we are over there at the sewing machine, I'll talk you through this too. We're also going to sew five eighths of an inch all the way around our pocket bag. Then we are going to finish off the seam allowance of our pocket bag. Again, I'm using a serger, which is why we needed to go ahead and serge this little corner here. Because if we hadn't done that, getting your serger into this little area is just very well, virtually impossible. So because we've kind of like pre-searched, we can just start our serging here, pick up where we left off and then carry it on through and serge off the edge here. So this will be kind of loose. But from here around, it will be serged together. It creates less bulk this way, less kind of like, I don't know, floppy weird stuff. But I like to try and get as much of it together as possible. So bag. So again, we are starting. Now this is all going to be five eighths of an inch. So we don't have to do any fancy weird calculations for this. Just make sure your raw edges are nice and close. And you need to start your needle at that seam that we just sewed at the side seam. Drop your needle there, come in, backstitch, and then come around your pocket. Okay, the last step for this pocket is to secure the pocket to the front of the skirt. Because we don't want, I mean, obviously we've got to, you know, attach all this to our, our bodice. And so we want to go ahead and just base this end to make sure it's going to stay in the right place and, you know, not bunch up or have any weird issues when we go to attach that bodice. So turn your pocket piece toward the skirt, toward the front of the skirt. Incidentally, the lining piece will be what is against the front of the skirt. So lining to the wrong side of the skirt. Just drop this in here, ping up to a basting stitch, and just baste all this together. Okay, and that's that. You can go give this a really good press now, clip all your threads, your serger threads, and all of that. But I will do that and then show you the final result, which is honestly just so beautiful over at the cutting table. Okay, and at your, I'm sure you guys can see this at your ironing board, you're going to press open the seam allowances from the hem up to the pocket. And then because the pocket is attached here, it does produce this kind of weird thing. The instructions will have you like snip into this. I just hate that because now you have like a raw edge of fabric that isn't finished. And over time, like what's going to happen to that? Yeah, you could put some phrase stop on it. But I don't know, in my opinion, I would just rather avoid cutting into the fabric if I can. So I just kind of do this weird like catty corner fold. And then press up the rest of your pocket, press all this flat, I meant to trim this. And then from the right side, you can see our pocket is perfectly concealed inside our garment. And when you peek in, all you see is the fashion fabric, you don't see the lining fabric at all. Because we sewed the pockets on at three eighths of an inch, and then the regular seam allowance at five eighths of an inch, you can see you have this little kind of buffer, which is why I kind of feel like the under stitching is a little bit unnecessary. But listen, I am all for like just being extra precautious, I guess. So really, really beautiful side seam love it. Now we all need to go do the other side of our skirt. Okay, moving right along, right? We've got a bodice. And now we've got a skirt. And tomorrow we're going to be talking about that front button placket. So be sure to catch me here tomorrow, where we will go over the next few steps in new look 6651. See you all tomorrow. Bye.