 All right, so I just finished working on my quick start by Thermal Technologies. This is an expensive little hard start kit for testing little compressors. You can actually do a full size compressor. The problem with this one here was the switch was defective. It starts out with off, which is what we got right there. You can see, then you've got run and then start, which puts the capacitor in the circuit. You let it off, it continues to run, shut it off. So you've got a 30 amp fuse in here. The way this thing's wired up, if you have a male plug here on the end, comes down, obviously the cord comes into here. One leg goes to the fuse, which is right here, which I just had to put a new end on it because I had to replace the switch. The switch is what was defective. The switch they had in there had gotten burnt up. You can see the pitting down there on the contact points. And the way this switch is, it's a little different. You can usually find on, off, on, off, but generally cannot find off on momentary. So it's a lot harder to get. I was able to find the replacement one, one that was actually rated for 250 volts, 10 amps at that and 15 amps on 120 volt. And what you've got here is you've got leads on the end, just like my Annie does. And they're all different colors, obviously. It's the same thing. And the way you wire this thing up is pretty simplistic. These are kind of outrageous if you can even find them. They're very, very expensive for what you're getting. They're like $150, $160 for this stupid thing. There's the catalog number. You can see the black is run, red is start, green is capacitor, yellow is capacitor. Well, you've got red and green coming in, just wire nutted. This is so primitive. I thought this was somebody had done some work on it because I bought this used. Basically what I did is I, like I said, I went through, I resoldered this, had to drill it out a little bit so that we can get the wires through there and just went ahead and did her up. I've got a Haco soldering iron there, which, you know, don't need nothing quite that expensive. And then I double checked my continuity and which way the switches was working there with the meter. And then just a little bit of solder there. But this is the little start cord that I'm gonna start using. This allows you to use any capacitor you want. Annie hasn't built right in there. This one doesn't. You can either use it without the start capacitor or with one. Like I said, it had a different type of connector on the end. I had to trim it up when I ended up cutting the cord to get that in there because it was originally soldered in there like that. And I figured it'd just be easier to chop it off and then just redo it. Well, when I did that, I ended up having to re-strip this, which then made it too long for this. So it is grounded to the chassis. We got to finish screwing that down here real quick. So we've got it there. As you can tell, I went ahead and used a insulated crimp connector. I took the plastic off the end of it. It was a blue one. You can see the blue there. I had a yellow, but that was too big. It wouldn't fit into that pattern there. And then just in case they didn't hold, I went ahead and put some solder on the end there. Yeah, that's about it guys. It really ain't nothing to this thing. The way this is though, you've got obviously off is off. Then you have on, which is connecting to the black here that looks like it's blue. And then when you go to momentary, it goes to the yellow while this one here stays on. So off these two on momentary here. Off, run, start. Simple as that. All right, so we're gonna go ahead and test this thing out here. I've got it turned off right now. I've got it clamped on the white, which in reality, it's really their neutral, but they're calling it their common. We're gonna go ahead and hook it up to the capacitor, which we've got here. So we've got the two terminals there. We used the resistance check to make sure which one was our common start and run. Start is usually your higher resistance. And that is red with this particular device. You gotta check your own device to make sure it's accurate. And then the run is the black, which you would think red would be run, but that ain't how they did it. And I would think black is common, but hey, whatever. So we've got it hooked up here to the amp meter. We're gonna flip it all the way to. It kicked on, unhooked it, and she's pulling seven amps. So today we were back to replace this start relay and capacitor, which we found bad the other day. And it looks like my device works. I'm not getting shocked and it's running. So kill it. Now I'm kind of curious, because the one that we've seen out there, there's one out there that doesn't have a capacitor in the circuit, which all you're doing is putting it in series with your start. So what you could do is just wire these two together and we could see if it'll start, but we'll have to give it a moment here to equalize back out before we do it. It may start generally when the start relay goes bad or the capacitor goes bad, it's an open circuit. So it's putting nothing to the start. So all we're doing is space shift when we're putting a capacitor in there anyhow to get that ball rolling. And so let's go ahead and discharge this capacitor, which are not supposed to short it. Supposed to actually use a resistor. Obviously don't touch any of the live terminals because you'll get the crap shocked out of you because it will damage the capacitor. These are different than a run capacitor. Start capacitors are supposed to be discharged with a resistor. All right, so we've got this isolated here. These are live potentially. We've got everything back off. We're gonna try to start it here without a capacitor. See what happens. It did start. It's pulling crazy high amperage. So not a good idea. We went ahead and killed it, but yeah, it's just easier to have one that actually puts the start capacitor in the circuit. There's no magic to it. I didn't wait super long for this compressor to equalize. I mean, maybe 45 seconds to a minute. Yeah, you should wait four or five minutes, but we don't have that kind of time for demonstrations. So if I was to hook up that capacitor again, it would probably kick right on no problem, which is the whole reason why you have a capacitor. We got it back in the circuit, kicked right on, amperage dropped back down to seven, we're good to go. Everything's working. All right guys, that's gonna wrap it up. Thanks for tuning in. If you would please hit the like button on your way out. Consider subscribing. And until next time, we'll catch you on the next one. So that's the end of this demonstration. We will catch you guys on the next one. All right guys, if you enjoyed this demonstration, thanks for watching. All right guys, thanks for watching. Don't forget to subscribe, give it a big like and let's catch you on the next one. All right guys, thanks for, all right guys, that's gonna wrap this one up. Thanks for tuning in. All right guys, that's gonna wrap it up. Thanks for tuning in. If you would please hit the like button on your way out. Consider subscribing. And until next time, we'll catch you on the next one. So to make things look a little nicer, I ended up just putting in some split loom to make it a little easier to keep track of these wires. What we've done is we went ahead and plugged it into the wall. We've got it turned off right now. We're plugged in there to the outlet. So when you come over to it right now, everything is dead. So when you turned it on, your black is your hot, everything else is dead. When you push the button here, that sends power to the capacitor which loops in and out over to your red, which brings it over here to the red. There you go. And then the white, technically you're neutral. Think of it as gonna be 230 volt. It could be 120 volt, whichever one you want. Either way, you're switching one leg. You're putting constant power to your common. You're putting constant power to the other leg to your run. And your start leg is getting your momentary switch, which is going through the capacitor and breaking once it comes up to speed, which is purely you giving it the start. So, simple as that, guys. That switch is really hard to find. I had to do a lot of research to find it. That's not a normal switch, like I said, but for the most part, this is pretty simple. Like I said, these are really ridiculously priced. You can buy these Mueller plugs here on eBay. I believe you might even be able to find them in Amazon. This is really nothing more than a handy box, but it was custom-built, obviously, by them. So it was even cheaper yet with a 30 amp fuse in there. So, I mean, you are protected. And it is pretty neat and handy. I think it's gonna be kind of easier and smaller than what the Annie was. But like I said, it's just a short start cord and allows you to put a capacitor. If you don't need a capacitor, you can tie them together. If you do need the capacitor, you put one leg on each side of the capacitor and you're good to go. If you guys enjoyed the video and you wanna see more like it, give it a thumbs up. Don't forget to subscribe. Check us out on Facebook and Instagram. And until next time, guys, we will catch you on the next one.