 Welcome back, everybody. I am your friendly neighborhood CRT repairman, Steve. And today, I've got a special treat for you. We're going to go jump into the Wayback Machine and go back almost 30 years and work on a CRT today from 1992. That is a Sony PVM 1943 MD. Now, this is a monitor that I've worked on a couple of times before with some other things. I did some live shows. I will be tagging some videos that might be very important in this small little cut-through video. We're going to do talking specifically, again, about a Sony PVM 1943 MD. And let's just go ahead and start rolling this wonderful footage I've got here of this PVM. Now, again, this one's from 1992. It does represent the first actual box-style PVM. And that's this exterior with the buttons on the front and all that, especially for a medical monitor. So if you would have normally seen a monitor like this attached to something like a scope or some type of ultrasound machine in the early 1990s. So if you were born in 1993, you might have had your picture taken on one of these if your parents would have gotten ultrasound that year. But anyway, I want to show you some pictures before of this monitor and the condition that it's in currently. So I'm going to drop myself out of the picture here for just a second and kind of show you some before-action shots. So this was one of the major problems on this monitor. Let me back up just a second and show you what it is. First, we've got a pretty good issue here on this right-hand side with our geometry. And that's just a big black line down the side and a couple of wonky spots on that side. And then we've also got the clock down here on my display. Again, this is just running from a program. But the reason I'm showing is you can see an enormous amount of convergence in this corner where on my camera, you can literally see the red lines separated from the green and the blue there on the bottom. So that's all stuff we're going to need to repair, tighten up. I just did want to show, though, again, before a footage of this monitor. Because I often get asked, what does it look like prior to me recapping? And this is before I recapped the monitor or before I did really any work to the monitor. I just turned it right on and this is what it looked like. Again, it looked quite blurry because of the convergence. The convergence was a big issue on this one. There also was a bit of a screen blur where it was out of focus just slightly. And I don't feel, I feel like there were some capacitors that were probably failing and not giving us the best look on the sides for like pin cushion because those should be a little bit more uniform than what they look like right now on the screen. But anyway, here's just a quick look of what this thing looked like before. Now, if you want to see a video about me recapping this monitor, I will tag it right here. It was a live show where I took the monitor apart on the live show and then I actually went ahead and pulled all the boards. I showed you how I did that because this one had a lot of different boards and a lot of little proprietary connectors in it. And so it's very important to make sure you do all that, take your time, especially with something like this, lots of wires, lots of boards, and lots of old plastic that could crack and break if you didn't specifically unscrew everything or you could bend and even crack a circuit board which would cause all kinds of trouble. So anyway, I will tag those videos again up top and it is about an hour and a half of me tearing down this monitor live. And then I do also have a secondary video following up with that that shows the boards and I discuss how I made my individual cap kit for this monitor. And the last thing I did after I put all this together was I did apply some fresh dielectric grease which will limit the amount of sound that comes off of that flyback area back there. Just to make sure there's no dust or hair or lint or anything in that. And then you won't have any crackles or pops and make sure you get a good seal against the back of your tube. But the last thing I did was I did put this little red thing on the wrong side. Over here I needed to get a little further away from the mech of the CRT and everything. But all in all that probably took me about 20 minutes to put the thing back together even after this time lamps video shows it sped up. It was quite complex to put it back together. And that's just simply because there's so many daughter boards and a lot of these boards were actually consolidated on later models. So let's go ahead up and pull myself a picture out of the picture again. And we'll look at some tests here. So first I've got a little smaller monitor set up. This is a Sony PVM 8220. And the reason I did that was just I wanted to have a composite video test on this monitor. This monitor does do composite S video and RGB. But that way I could see, there is no service menu so I could see if something was gonna come up right when I turned it on. So it's always good to have something that you know is working. And so that's why I had the 8220 here because it's just a little PVM that does S video and composite. So it's a good idea to run the DVD player through it and then loop that through the Sony PVM 1943 MD. So again, this is a medical version of this monitor. It came out really well. I think the picture looks pretty good. This is again before I have made any real adjustments to it. This does match up with the 1944 Q or 2044 Q, 2043 Q. And then you may also have like a 13 or 14 inch version of this that looks or operates the same. And these kind of functions will be the same for either one of those monitors. Next, I wanna show you some RGB. We'll do some before and after screens here on how this will came out as far as the look of the screens before any kind of calibration adjustment. And so we're looking at just grids and other patterns to see what our screen looks like. Again, prior to me going in and making the geometry adjustments. Now I did also make a very big video about the geometry on this specific monitor. It's about 30 minutes. And it shows you how to get into the back of the CRT, which I'm going through right this second and shows you how to operate these potentiometers, which are in the back again of the monitor. And those are your controls that you have to use to be able to make any kind of screen adjustment for geometry that includes your underscan settings. They are on there too. So there's a listing right across here of what each one of these settings will actually adjust. There is a daughter board again in here too that's a V board that does have some adjustments where if you need to make like a quick color or screen brightness adjustment, you can do that by using those adjustments. But the main thing in here was to just get in there and start using those potentiometers. So again, I will tag that right here above if you wanna see exactly how to get in and calibrate a monitor like this because you're always gonna, even after recapping it, there's always gonna be some kind of need to make a little bit of an adjustment most of the time. And that's why it's always a good idea to replace any capacitors and do any hardware work before you actually get in and start working on it. Now, I wanted to go over something really quick here. This is, again, after, this is after the repairs have all been done. A grain play and a screen scratch. So I wanna show you what I did notice about this monitor. This is, again, after the fact, but I wanna show you up here next to Bald Bull's head. Right up here, I'm gonna circle it with my cursor. There's a scratch on the screen and it's like a hairline scratch. It really shows up well though on this picture. You'll see a second I'm gonna use with my finger and rub it. But that scratch is on this screen. So unfortunately, that's stuck in this layer of glass and it's not really removable. So as I promised right now, before I go and jump into this, just so you know, these are pictures of before I did the cap work and adjustment and then after I did the cap work and adjustment. So I'll show you, again, the same shots from before and after coming up right here and then we'll go through and talk about what some things I noticed. So again, this is that big long side that you saw earlier in the video and it's against that right hand side of the monitor when you look at the screen. And that was an offset and then again, we had the convergence issues. But this is after recapping calibrations. That screen is pushed all the way up to the side there and we have no black line and we also got a way tighter convergence down here on our bottom portion and corners of our screen. Again, this is before I did anything, any adjustments or any kind of capacitor replacement. A lot of convergence in this corner and then after. Now it's not perfect. You could still see some blooming on the edges where it blooms off to the right a little bit but it's gotta be 300 or 400 times better than what we started with. And I ran up smack against the wall here. I'll pause it just a second. I read smack up against the wall here where I had to stop the adjusting the calibrations because there was no better screen. You couldn't make it look any better than what it had. Same thing with the convergence rings and all that stuff. So I'll show you again if you wanna go back and look at the calibration video it is tagged but there will be some other things about convergence that I'll show you coming up. But there might be a point, especially on an older monitor that's almost 30 years old where you can't actually get it to adjust any better than what it like is on the screen. And that's kind of the point I got to with this screen. I want you to take a slight or a very close look over here to the right hand side of this screen. I'll show you some things that again I could not get fixed fully but this is a before and after shot of the grid now. And the grid is just pushed up to where I like to have it where the dots are almost halfway between the wall and the wall of the screen edge and your over scan area needs to be somewhere in between those lines. And I go through that more on the recapping and recalibration video but this is something that I had trouble with on this monitor. Even after recapping and adjustment I could still not get rid of this screen bow in the bottom right hand side of the monitor. I couldn't get rid of that little bow there no matter what I did. So sometimes you're just gonna have to live with a little bit of flaws in your screen like I said especially for a tube that's 30 years old. Let me show you this CRT Convergence tool today. It's this Klein optical lens. I've done a specific video on how amazing this tool is and I'll link to that video also so you can understand a little bit more on that and I'll also link to a Convergence video finally so you can understand how to make more adjustments for Convergence because I did do a complete and detailed Convergence video before. So you take this lens you put it up to a nice pattern of lines across the screen and on the screen now you can see how it splits those up into red, green and blue. The lenses do and you can easily tell which line is either too high or too low in comparison to the other two lines. And then there are dials on the side of here which allow you to show whether one color like example red on this right and then blue is controlled on the other side. I'm sorry the right is blue and the left is red when you'd spin these. And you could see whether one of your guns needs to go up a little bit or down a little bit and that's a good tool. You can also check to see how far you are within like a tolerance of being within Convergence and everything else. So that's gonna be everything on the before and after like geometry calibrations but I did still wanna show off a little bit of gameplay here just because my personal opinion on this monitor is still it looks fantastic. Even though it does have that little screen scratch there was also another slight repair that I did have to make on the back of it. And this is, I wanna show it side by side with a 14 inch so you can see what the difference is again on the size between a 14 inch and a 19 or I mean 13, 20, however you wanna say it but it's a technically 19 inch tube and then also a 14 inch tube. So that's pretty much the end of that restoration video and let me know if you guys have any questions or comments about this one. Now this video monitor will eventually be for sale. I mean I'm gonna adjust the pricing and base it upon a couple things. So there's obviously the screen scratch which is not gonna be fixable. It's gonna be there forever and so that's a ding against it. We've also got the slight bow in the one corner that I couldn't get fixed. So that's another slight ding against it. The last thing that happened was the back plastic on it actually got a tiny crack in it in the top hands corners. So I had to take the back plastic out and epoxy that plastic crack those cracks back together with some high quality epoxy that way they won't have any trouble that those cracks won't actually fall apart but they are still there. So those are all the negatives. What the positives are this one does have a 600 lines TV screen that supports RGB and you can convert that component over to RGB pretty easily with some devices that I've actually got like a Garo or some of the Behabar brothers devices can be used to convert our component into RGB just in case you only have a monitor like this that only does RGB. This doesn't do component. So that's a downside but again it's still a great monitor and has a lot of life left in it especially now with all the caps. So if you get one of these I definitely recommend give it a good service because I think they stopped making these somewhere in about 1993, maybe 1994. So all of them are definitely over 25 years old but that's pretty much everything that you need to know again about this one. Look for maybe a future video that'll be very short explaining kind of the details on the possible sale that would be going on for this one but I'm your host Steve. Thanks again for watching everybody. I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content.