 Hey guys, how's it going? Didn't hear me. Hey, yeah, you sound good. All right, great Thanks for coming in Mike you got your stuff set up there Alright, maybe he's just getting looks like it's connecting in ready. All right, so just just say no I just see Alex here right now, but we are I'm recording this So that you don't have any audio Mike you could try I was just using some headphones but Either way if you don't have audio, we'll try I'll try to still walk you through what we can today I have some stuff here, but again, I'm recording this so anybody comes in and Knows that it will be on recording and What we're gonna do today is Mike I had asked me and A couple weeks ago to help him try to get an adjustment. Hey Mike try to get an adjustment to his 1943 MD, I believe is the exact model and this is a model that I have done before and so when We get in here first off Just note that we are using live electricity electricity obviously so we want to we're gonna try to take our time just to get started so that We're not gonna really take any any high risks. So Mike we'll try to work through the chat to begin with if you can answer some questions as I go Yeah, no I can hear you now. Okay, great. Oh, excellent. So yeah, that's that's a good picture right there. So We're going to We're gonna work specifically mostly on geometry, right? Yeah. Yeah, okay And I know you do have the little spot right next to you fly back right there where the geometry buttons are Now You've done a really good job. I was yes. I was gonna mention that Sometimes when you get in here the cable management could be pretty off and you definitely want to make sure that the cables are Are Kind of out of the way because we're gonna stick a screwdriver and he used that to adjust these potentiometers right down here in this cluster so you've done a good job there where you've got the cables out of the way from like the fly back and then The the yoke and everything and into the neckboard. So you just like you've got it there. Make sure it's clear to begin with Now just to note that you do not have to power or you don't have to do this while it's powered on if you're not comfortable with that First Mike, do you have your screwdriver? Okay, I think that should be fine as long as there's no conductivity Between the handle and the edge of it. No, there's it's all plastic at the top. I have there was like a little Clip like a pen clip type thing which I've often covered in tape but looking at it It doesn't go through the plastic. Okay. Yeah, then that I mean, it's it's gonna be fine anyway, but what you know, it'll It shouldn't be a problem normally, but just to be safe. You always want to try to have at least a plastic handle Yeah, the handle is all plastic. Great. So that's just one thing to note here is to do that with the plastic handle and Like I said, you don't actually have to you can make adjustments on these and then go back and forth turn in the thing On and off if you you know, we're completely too nervous to do this while it's running. However, the way it's set up right now and with that screwdriver And as long as you just use one hand while you're in here and don't just you know, just don't ground it against anything. You'll be fine. Even if you did unintentionally grounded to get something more than you're probably fine. But you know, let's just just to be safe. And do my best not to I mean, you'll be I'm sure you'll be fine. So what we'll do is First off, I know that this the camera we have it at the back here. I didn't know if you wanted to try to describe maybe what your screen looks like with So yeah, I'll bring the the camera around which test would you like me to show first. Okay, so let's start with like the test for Yeah, the grid just the I usually go which which console are you using I'm using I'm actually using a pie but I'm using the Okay, or the Super Nintendo SNES. Okay, so I generally use the first grid pattern on there to start with there. There's two grid patterns on there. You know, yeah. Okay, great. Yeah. See if I I don't know if I can necessarily Okay, there we go. If we're looking. Yeah, that's a good picture. So if we're looking at the screen here, obviously you're you got a gap up top. Yep. And then is there a slight gap at the bottom to There is there's a slight gap out the bottom and you might not be able to see but right around the corners here it flares out at the bottom. Okay, so what we'll do is We need to decrease the horizontal size on it. First off, so that we can see the edges of this grid pattern on the screen, you know, fully Yep. And then what we're going to try to do in is we'll go from there. We'll center the picture and then we'll expand it after that. So we'll try to center it horizontally and vertically and then that should also help us see any curves at the corners. Okay. The camera back to the back. Yeah, go back to the back here and I've actually got funny enough the the This is this is a board that's from the graveyard here and it's it's the one that was destroyed in shipping. So it's it's got parts taken off it, but it has the same cluster of Potentiometers so I can help kind of guide you from this and also pictures. So when I post that at this video. I'll put pictures up on the screen so that people can see kind of What these are actually doing. So if I'm looking here. Mine when I'm looking at my board. It says that the very first potentiometer. That's the blue one by itself over there says it's horizontal size. Is that what it says. Yeah, it has it looks like it has a little arrow that points from each size right to it. Yes. Yes. So that's, we're going to need to adjust that one. And what I want you to do is you personally look at the front of the screen. Yep. And try to just spin that and make sure that you're just, you know, one way will make it larger. One way will make it smaller. So just make it small enough. To where it's you can see both edges. And then let me know when you're when you're at that point. So it looks like on the right side. This this test pattern doesn't doesn't have the end of the The grid, but I can see both it. Yeah, for some reason, it could just be because I'm using a wrong or something, but it I was able to size it so that I can see the edge on the left and I can see where it terminates on the right. Okay, we'll we'll check another screen in a second to but that's fine. So we got that we got both so we can see all edges on there. Right. Yep, here. I'll bring the camera. The only thing is I don't think the melting point camera on the side. Oh, that's fine. You can just hold it for a second. That okay, I see what you're saying the right at the other edge. Okay, go back go back to screen where it's the main choice screen. Sure. For a quick second. Okay, great. Yeah, I can see that edge there a little bit better to Try the STMP or the color bars, the one right above the STMP first that should have a great pattern on it too, I think this one above that one and then hit it again. Hit the a button. There we go. So yeah, it's, yeah, it's just cutting off the edge on there, which yeah I and hopefully that one of them will show up. I do see how it's It's kind of curving towards the inside. Is that on both sides or is it just mostly on the right side like the pin Where it looks like a pillow almost or a bow. Is it yeah, it I think I think I've got to move myself back a little bit just to see it. So yeah, it looks to me like it's Kind of both sides. Okay. Yeah, so if they're both curving in then we'll need to try and do a Pin amp adjustment, which is another one of those potentiometers. Okay. Okay. Yep. So Set us down here go back to Pull the grids up And just see which one shows you the most whether it's the top one that we were just on or if it's a second one. I think that one's going to be too big vertically, but Pull them up and see which one looks best for you so we'll try to adjust this pin amp real quick. I feel like it's the first one. Okay, that's probably what okay good. All right, so If Let me see on my board here again. It looks like the second Trying to determine now that's vertical size. Okay, so it goes horizontal size vertical size now a vertical size Is there and before let's let's Stick to what we're doing the vertical and horizontal. We're going to get it centered and then we'll do the pen adjustment is the pin amp the next one over from that one is the third one. Yeah. So that's the one we'll adjust there now. Vertical center. Let me check where that's at this vertical size. Vertical center is the other big blue one. Okay. Opposite of Horizontal size that we just adjusted. You see it's a very big odd one. Is it that one right there. That's vertical center. Yeah, this guy right here that guy right there. So what we're going to try to do and you can you don't have to turn my camera over there because that'll be tough. Yeah, just just slowly turn that to try to center center vertically only your picture and then when you feel like you've got it centered. Maybe then you could take it. We could take a quick shot of it from your camera. Okay, so it wasn't too far off at least from what I can tell. Okay, a little bit a little bit further ago I think. Okay. Okay, so to my eye, it doesn't look too far off here. Let's see. Because I'm not sure if you can see it from the camera view, but let me see if I can fix this. There we go. There appears to be about the same amount of gapping I guess no I was looking over here. Okay. The gap in here is a little bit smaller. So So what we'll do next is go back to the Sorry to keep making you switch here. No, no, that's fine. I just hope I don't make anybody say No, you're fine. So go back to the back area and down here in the potentiometer area again try the one that we're going to do what we're going to do is now you're going to expand the size a little bit on your verticals. Okay, so that we can. So what you do is whichever one you want to push one of those edges all the way till it touches and then we can kind of work that center and tweak that perfectly. Okay, so vertical size is the second one right there. Second one. Oh, yeah, yeah, blue. Yes, that one. Yep. And so try that out and then Okay, yeah, so I've got it the bottom left corner now is touching the edge. Okay, that is the only one that is touching so So the point where like the center of the line is either on the top or the bottom touching. Okay, like the center point of your vertical center like right at the center of your center or the bottom can do that. We've got the top touching right now bring you back around. Sure. That's excellent. Straighten it out. Okay, so that's good. Now this is very normal and what you know it always is it does tend to flare up a little bit at the bottom. But at the corners that's you know on this these older tubes, especially the 43s, that's not like out of spec or anything. Okay, yeah. So, but this is good. This this looks like your yoke is pretty close to right on level. So we don't have to worry about a screen tilt and changing that but what you could do now is that's actually probably good enough it looks like it's pretty center. I don't know, but you could go in and tweak the gap in between there to make sure it's perfect but that's that's where I'd start and then when we're done we'll expand it so that we're using that as our over scan area after we adjust the rest of it. Okay, that sounds great. I think we got just about everything on here. Let's take me around back to your backside of the monitor for a second and I'll direct you what we'll try next. Now, horizontal center on this monitor is a bit more difficult to get to. So I'm hoping that your horizontal center is pretty good. But if it's not, it's a little bit trickier because it's not in the same spot. I see. So look at your screen and let me know. I mean, is there when you're looking at it, we'll kind of need to do the same thing with the horizontal side. It's going to be more difficult. You might want to back out to a screen that's a solid color. Yeah. You can use one of the solid color screens on there, the red, green and blue color screens on the first menu or just probably the 240p test suite screen. Yeah, I'll use the 240p test suite screen. That seems to work. It is not centered. There is probably almost maybe, I don't know, a little round, maybe three-eighths of an inch or something on the right side, whereas the left side is almost perfectly squared out. Yeah, okay. Well, see, here's, so I'll show you where it is. Okay. Yeah. I don't know if you could see me. All right. So the area of the board that you're working on is this area. Yeah, yeah. So if we go towards almost the top middle where the heat sinks are, in the middle of that cluster, there's this big black potentiometer. See here. Usually that's in there. And it's on the right. It's on the same side. Okay. Wait, go back a little bit. Stop right there. Right here. No, just a little bit to the right where, or towards the, sorry, the other side. The other side. Stop right there. Okay. Yeah. And right next to those cluster of heat sinks where you see the connections for the two cables going in. One's from the yoke. That's the red, green, blue, yellow cable. You see that? Let's see here. Yeah. Connects to the board. Yeah, I see the. Oh, that black. Oh, yeah. Right there. Yeah, I do see it. Yep. That's, that's the horizontal, I don't know why it's all the way over there, but that's the horizontal center adjustment. So you literally have to stick your hand back in there. Okay. That's the worst one out of all these obviously, because it's stuck back there and really it just makes you nervous to do it. But yeah, it definitely does. But that's, that's the, that's the horizontal one. There's not. What should I be wary of accidentally touching as I stick my hand back there? Well, you know, you don't really want to touch any of these fly back cables. Okay. Yeah. Anything, any of those red or black cables, the other cables are insulated. There's nothing coming off of them. If there was a spark coming off of, you know, it'd be going crazy if there was a short or something. So it's, it's insulated. So it doesn't matter if you brush up against those cables. What you did, the problem that happens the most is you stick your arm in there and you're looking at the front of the screen. And your elbow could touch a piece of metal or somewhere else and you basically make a small ground and you get a little zap. Okay. Like, you know, if your elbow were to hit the back of the input board on the metal part, then you could make a short through your elbow and then your arm will be zapped kind of like with. I mean, it's not a huge amount of voltage, but it would be like a, it's a small shock. It's like a electrical fence. But that's what would happen worst is if you make a short in your arm by tapping it against something else. That's what I was saying. That's the hardest thing. But obviously if you get your arm back in there and just, you know, spin that a little bit, that's how you have to center it unfortunately on this thing. Okay. If you don't, you know, obviously if you're going to do it, just put the camera out in. Yeah, yeah, for sure. Don't worry about any of that. Just try to make sure you're as clear as possible. All right, let me, let me see. You've got enough room. Yeah, I'm going to have to probably move stuff around a little bit. Because, yeah, I mean, Thankfully, I have skinny fingers. So yeah, you just got to get back there and pinch it and spin it a little bit and do it, you know, ever so slightly and try to get it a little bit to the tour, you know, center. You see, that's a problem. I want to ask one quick question about the route I can go in. So if I were to go in this way, like those black cables look like they're no no. I don't want to go that way. What I want to go in this way. No, you'd see, you're going to try to reach around back to the area where you were working. Yep. You have to like skinning your arm. Yeah. Yep, yep, yep. Yeah, like that direction back in towards there. All right. I've got thin arms. So here we go. Yeah, so just take it slow and you'll be fine. Yeah, that is. Now, if you don't want to. There goes the camera. Yeah, don't worry here. See, I'm going to adjust this just a little bit. Just try to. I think, I mean, I think I can do it. I'm actually just more nervous. I've got like thin girl hands. So once you, yeah, well, it's, you know, that's what this all is about. It's pretty much just nervous. Once you do it, it gets more comfortable and you realize what's not really hurt yourself. Something was hot. Yeah, those heat sinks are hot. They will get hard. I just can't see what I'm going over here. Yeah. It's not it's kind of stuck. We might not. I mean, if you can get it, like I said, it's not the end of the world. What you can do, I got to move in a little bit. Here we go. Okay, I was going to say you can turn the monitor off, turn it a little bit. And then turn the monitor back on and check your results for that one. Yeah, I think I'm doing all right here. Okay, my handout and take a look at heat sink is hot, but other than that. Yeah, there's a bunch of heat sinks that definitely gets the temperature will get up down there. That's definitely like a hundred degrees. Oh yeah, I felt right. I think I over adjusted it just a touch but okay back and we'll be in business. That's that's kind of the hardest thing you're going to have to deal with today. It's like playing operation. Real life name of operation. I prepare my whole life for this. Yeah, I'm going to actually if there we go. I think that's good. Okay, well, yeah, it's good enough to look at it. Here, bring this back over. Okay, great. I forgot to do this. Turn on the overhead lights, a little bit more light. Well, yeah, I mean, it should that when I see the screen, it looks fine. I just can't see the edges too much, but yeah, they are, they're about the same size now. Okay, a little bit of dark on each side. Yep, just a little bit dark on each side. That's right. Okay, so now, let's go back and look at that, you know, geometry screen, the grid pattern really quickly. Yep, and pull that up and then let me look at the potentiometers again. Super annoying that that edge doesn't show up. Yeah, it's that's that's odd because on when I use a super to tell it's always there but like you say it must be something with the how the ROM showing or something. Yeah, that's one extra line of pixels or something. Okay, so we have the rest of the stuff we're worried about it's horizontal size which we already know where that is vertical size know that is the next one is the pen amp. And the pen amp is the is it will make it it gives it that Boeing bubble, or then you start to bend it, and it goes opposite where it becomes like an hourglass. Right. Yep. So there's a happy medium in there where you kind of have to just turn that. Let me, let's see if we get it. Can you go let's try the linearity pattern. I should tell you to changes. Let's try that. And if you press a on that it pulls up another grid. That's more lines on it. Yep. Let's see if so you know you want to try to get those lines on the edges straight as possible and the way you're going to do that is just turning that pen amp back and forth to know it looks straight now just remember it is probably, it's still going to be best to curve probably tiny bit towards the inside. And it honestly looks. I mean, it doesn't look bad to me. I don't know that. Yeah, it's much better, to be honest, but it looks like at least on the side here where I can see the edge. It looks pretty straight, like it looks consistent the gapping looks consistent from top to bottom to me, and it doesn't seem significantly different over here either. Okay, so I mean I don't see it. I don't see too much on there that would make me worry about it. Because again, if you expand it out, all of a sudden those corners will bend outwards instead. And so what you might want to do is just by is just kind of expand your edges just a tiny bit you know till I like to do it so that the, you know, back on that other screen that the dot pattern is almost your edge for everything. Okay, somewhere between the dots on the red and the outer red line. That's kind of like the middle over scan area that's a good place that so you won't end up with a lot of edges when you're actually playing the games. Yeah, I try to aim where I where I go from this point and expand the whole picture out and what I mean by expand is like tweak first the let's say horizontal size to make it larger. To where your edge, like you go past actually the red line you see the red line, the first red line goes slightly past that to where the edge is not to the dot, but you know, maybe a third of the way between the dot a third of the way in towards you have two thirds of a black spot between the dot and your edge, but you won't see the red. You won't see the red. I'll take a look and try to do that. Yeah, so first try that and we'll do that with the vertical and the horizontal size and then as it as you expand that it'll. It's better so yeah just go back to start so the horizontal again is the first blue one. Yep. On there. So about, you said about a third. Yeah to where there's a yeah so you won't see the red line anymore. So I'm seeing it like this. Yes, now as we're looking at this real quick press and go back to the main blue screen so that we could just see what it looks like. Okay, do you see any darkness on either side. Blue pretty much it's all blue. Okay, that's definitely right at the edge because if you did it any less I know on that pattern, it would be dark so you got it. That's pretty well tuned up right in there. Okay, and then we're going to do the same thing with with it vertically and yeah so you'll want to actually push that to where it's the same thing now obviously in the corners it's going to be more compact and closer. Sure. So you use the center of your screen at the top of the bottom to judge that. Okay, yep. We'll do one second. Yeah, and that vertical size one is the opposite potentiometer all the way on the other side that big. I think blue one this one right here. Yes, the one that we were just using. Yeah, or no, let me make sure wait, wait, wait, wait, sorry, I'm sorry, wait, that says vertical center. Oh yeah, one glad I didn't change. Okay, vertical size I'm sorry that's the one right next to the one you just adjusted the small blue one for the scary. Yes, the one right next to that is vertical size. So try the same procedure with that. And then let us know what it looks like afterwards. So this is what it looks like after I pushed it a little bit there. Yes, that's good. And I'll be honest with you that's that looks very good to me for again this one is much more difficult because it's it's you know rudimentary it's right it's got the obviously all potential there's no right for like you have you this one's not been recapped or anything right. No it hasn't I mean that looks really really good for one that's never been recapped you know that's yeah no this one. I don't know if it was used much. I got it from a guy who used to service arcade stuff. Okay, and he gave me to and this was the cleaner one of the two in terms of the image. And like the brightness on it is great like the tube seems to be pretty pretty strong still. Yeah, I have the brightness actually turned down just a touch right now. Those ones I know that they are really a pain to kind of dial in and they don't have as many bells and whistles but the tubes always look amazing on it's like the same line count as anything like M2 or L to any of the newer ones the picture can look almost the same the only thing is they have more controls you know modernized. Yep, and different things so these ones can still produce great pictures and that looks pretty good so what I would do now is just. Okay, so I just got to notice that we hit 40 minute time limit but we'll get a little bit extra time so if this, if this does kick us out of here. I'll go back and I'll post another meeting. Okay, everybody, if you hear me you know just note that I'll post a new meeting in Patreon, and then we'll just come back and we can, we can have a Q&A and stuff after that. So, this is looks good to me I would just check a couple of different screens you can go to the linearity screen. Yep, again with the loops and yeah I don't even see a need to make a linearity adjustment. Okay, that looks really circular so that's good. And it looks much better than it did. All right, let's check the go back one screen to the main menu on that test pattern. You just press B. No, I'm sorry go back, press back to the, there we go. Yep. All right, let's go down and check our scroll test after that. Yes, and do that and just speed it up a little bit. How do I do this? I think you press up on the controller, and then you press down and slow it down a little bit, stuff like that. I don't see any tearing or warping as it does that that's what you're supposed to look for here. It looks looks really, really smooth to me. Yeah, that's that's I mean I don't see any like abnormalities or you know warping or linearity that's what that's another way to check that linearity is this scroll test. You're supposed to see if there's like a bubble in your picture and there's definitely not. So that I mean that looks good. Do you do what do you think you have any other questions about it? I'm super happy with it. I think the only other question that I had with any of this stuff was when I was looking at the color test, it seemed that the gray was a bit green. Okay, but when I see like when I see an actual game or if I see this screen, everything looks fine. Yeah. Okay, go down to. There's a color test pattern. And where is it says it should say red, green and blue. There it is white, red and green blue screen, white and RGB screen. Click that. And then go to your red and cycle through. I think you press either a or you can see it's something up and controls of each one of them, like everything is at 255, 255. But you should be able to go where it should just show red and blue and green and black. Basically, I can't remember I think you just hit a button there you go. Okay, red, that red and then blue. I mean they look good. Okay, so. Yeah, I mean it looks good to me. I can show you on the back where you can make a color adjustment. It's the same. It's the same way. I mean I think that maybe you're probably better off just playing with that if you want to. Yeah, I think it's okay. But just just in case you do I'll go through it real quick and show you. So, yeah, it gets set up and I'll show everybody here on my little cut out. Now, there are some like, we are potentiometers but other than the ones we went through the majority of them you're not really going to want to use you know that anybody who comes and watch this. I mean, I like just the rest of these on here while you get ready. I mean, they go through things like the under. There's an under scan button so you can tweak the geometry of that. And if the screen was tilted or angled in a strange way there's a couple of changes you can make for that like a vertical angle, but that wasn't on yours thankfully so the when you're looking you don't have to pick the camera but when you're looking down from the top. Yeah, on your monitor. You see the V board that's on the other side. Yeah, kind of expanded up. It's got you know set two lines of potentiometers with it's got 11 potentiometers on the board total right like two sets of five and then one by itself. Yep. Okay, so the one that's by itself controls the sub brightness so if your monitor yours didn't look this way, but if your monitor was either to dim or overly bright, just in its normal mode. So you go in here and spin that and make an adjustment to your brightness setting, beyond what it does on the front. I see. And then if we looked at both of those things here it's kind of interesting because there's not a green adjustment on here. It's just red and blue. I see. And not only that but it's it's sectioned out here in a couple of ways. First it'll say 9300 degrees Kelvin room. I think that's what he is. So that's the color temperature like almost a color palette there's a little switch on the back of the monitor. Yeah, that says 9300 and 6500. Yep, those are two different color settings that are built into the monitor so adjusting the reds and blues you can do that. Each one of those has a, you know, a different effect. Like there's two for for each of those colors. Some monitors have all the colors so they'll have two for each color, including green. Unfortunately, I don't know why some of these early ones don't. But they just have red and blue. So this is only going to affect those color palettes individually, those color temperatures. So like you'd have it set on that one color temperature and adjust this set of four. And then you can move over and you can just that set of four. And then if you look next to that actually has two by itself that just say RGB. And so those are just the straight blue and red drives for RGB so while you're using an RGB, that's just going to increase or decrease the intensity of the blue and red color. Yeah, overall, as it's sitting and going into the two. So this monitor also has some adjustments for all the colors on the front of it. Yeah. And those two can be tweaked by hand you got to stick a small screwdriver there don't worry. There's no chance of getting any electricity or, you know, shorting anything that way. You can try those ones on the front for a quick adjustment. And those tend to be easier gain and bias right there in the front of the monitor just stick a potential or a screwdriver that fits in there and it'll adjust that. Okay, I think it looks good. Yeah, I do to like what I only noticed it on the great tests bars but when I'm looking at just a game or a screen, it looks pretty sharp and you know perfectly color fits me. Okay, great. Good with it. Awesome. Yeah. Um, well, did you have any other questions I can. No, I'm good. Get this set up here. Right. That's the office but no man, it's good. Thank you so much. Absolutely. I bet it worked out. Yeah. And I'm still alive. So that's a yeah you made it. I'm going to ask anybody to unmute if they want to they can if you want to type anything in the chat. I think we only got a couple people here thanks for hanging out Alex and Frank and that's couple of their stuff by and I'll repost this with again I'll try to put pictures over it of because I've actually got some pictures on the screen. And I don't know that zoom will always work out maybe we'll try something different because I'd like to be able to pull up some stuff just on my desktop. Just to help show. So, anyway, if anybody has any questions for free to ask if not, it's okay we can cut this one short and be done, but I'll just say thanks for the support and everything and maybe we can keep working on CRTs I got some crazy one. In the mail it's a, I don't even know let me check. Somebody actually sent it to me on eBay, the link and then asked me to restore it it's at old old fun tested almost let's see a Tandy computer CRT so that's like something from the really early 80s. So it'll be interesting but I do have one question for you. When you do like a full restoration like I've watched the videos and everything but how long does it normally take for you to, you know, pull it fully disassemble it, check all of the caps, you know redo all the caps and just add a curiosity. Well, it's, it varies I guess depending on the monitor see if what I worked on for the Commodore that was really easy, because the boards big easy, you know, I can like get all those caps out with that thing in like 20 minutes, and then it's not really that hard to take one like so that is more simple but when you get into the more complex stuff. It takes more time and the more modern the board is like that board you're working on it's, I mean it's got stuff all over the place but it's not as modern so a lot of the components aren't as tiny, and it's easier to work around so to recap in this is actually more simple than generally working on like M series. I have a lot of people that are fortunately like damaged their boards to where like they'll try to recap it. And it's they could be exactly why I want to ask you today. I mean, that's like, that's what I've got like two or three people that have been asking about that I did it earlier this year too and it made me so mad that I just put the thing away and I have it like it's in the back burner it's a it's a this OEV 203 it worked fine for a while, and then the power supply just started going wacky it had been re kept like a year ago. And the power supply started active wacky one day it started doing this on the screen, and I was like what the heck and so I couldn't figure it out and that's how I learned about the power supply test, I showed. In the last M series video, where you take the volt meter and check all that out I got on the phone with Pat save on Pat for like 30 minutes, and he was like oh let me tell you to check this. So you could check if the problems from the power supply or the board itself. So you can eliminate whether it's a power supply problem or the board on the main board. I'm not sure what happens whether when you turn it back on it sends a short down I feel like this one that I had did something like that where eventually I kept trying to mess with it and it send a vote bad voltage down and it blew probably a resistor somewhere. And I just haven't had the time to go back I mean you could thankfully check resistors in line. I did find a tool that actually checks capacitors in in series that's like high quality, but it's a used tool and it still sells for 300. It's just a little meter it's like and but it works like it's got it's well known in the arcade industry is like the top thing and I want to get one, but it's not. It's not something I bought yet. And that's kind of what I was waiting I have a couple of boards here that I'm just kind of waiting to see if that will help eliminate a lot of time testing. So basically, that's when you start getting into the more extreme troubleshooting where you have to figure out where the problem is on the main board that's been damaged on an individual line, you know. So what the power supply does is it sends the power to the main board. And so if your power supplies good. When you check it on 12 volt and five volt, then you know the power supplies good but it's in that power to the main board and in somewhere, you're having a short so most of the time. If you have a short on the five volt, the power will still come on to the two, but you'll just get no picture. You could feel you know the static on there. Other times, if the, if the higher voltages out then generally you don't get any voltage on the tube. And what can happen I mean there could be a short somewhere, unfortunately anywhere on the line if you look at like a schematic for the M series and you look at that board, it's all in the service manual. You know you'll look at a board and it'll tell you where all the five volt comes in and goes on that line and it tells you what components are attached to the line. The electrical line you have to go through and either replace them test them and see which ones failed to basically be able to troubleshoot it. Yeah, that's where I feel like I'm stuck right now is that I'm good enough at this stuff to follow directions but like after I did the recap I double checked everything. I was good, plugged everything in triple checked that, and then the monitor turned on for maybe 10 seconds, made kind of a awkward screeching noise, no popping or anything. Something like that. Yeah, and yeah and then I let it discharge for like 10 minutes. And then when I took a look at it they, the power just is not supplying any power anymore. So I ordered some more fuses but you know other than doing like simple multimeter tests like I'm not really sure what else to do. Yeah, well and that's what I'm like I know it's going it's probably going to be something that I mean obviously I've got one here and I don't want to have me, you know just be sitting here as a dead 203 and somebody else that you know they supposed to. That's why I couldn't take yours right away is because they're supposed to be sending me theirs first. And then whenever I can hopefully get if I get theirs fixed, then you'll be you know I'll tell you send yours and we'll do the same thing or I'll tell you how I obviously I'll tell everybody how it fixed it. If I get it done. But when I talked to Pat that's what he said he said it's just a. It's just a bear it's a time waster you got to really have kind of a certain level of tools which unfortunately like I said, I've not got that cap tester so I can't go in and quickly just check the caps in line I got to pull them out and test them to see if the caps are bad but not. You know, there's something going on in there where when we send the power back through somehow it's short and I'm not sure what's happening. Yeah, I talked to Pat to and he was saying that the m series have like notoriously faulty power power bricks, but also looking at the cap kit and that you sent me versus the service manual. I found four that are different. But I'm not sure whether the difference is an upgrade and intentional or is just a copy paste error because there's one you list in there that the 1504 which doesn't exist on the a board and the service manual and I can't find it on the board either. Yeah, now there are so there were different. Leases on those boards. Okay, there are tiny differences in buildouts and yeah, I believe that's one of them that I, there's some of them that I don't always and that's still, you know, somewhat of work in progress however the changes in the caps a couple of them are basically come from what I had been kind of told by Pat on what he recommended years ago for upgrades on some of them. A couple of them did have service bulletins that like Sony later came out with like the blanking circuit and those two caps, two of those were supposed to be changed in that different. So, the 1504 though yeah so there's again and then the same thing with the power supply there is actually some power supplies in the m series that have like three additional caps that are just not populated and some of them to so there are some where that's not populated. So you know that it's it's kind of stinky because Sony sent these manuals out and then they were really secretive about sending out the updates. I had, I didn't even know the updates existed till a couple, maybe a year after I got into really work at autumn and somebody reached out to me and told me, and they actually sent me a copy of the one about the blanking and how Sony had said that there was a problem with that one always. And to change the caps on there. And then, like I said, I'm not, I'm not 100% sure why that is the case that it is this the other last guy who's supposed to send his boards and I asked him to send in his old caps with him. So, I was going to go back and I was going to test all those caps make sure they were so in spec and then I've got I've had to go back sometimes and reinstall old caps I don't I don't know why it's weird on some of these monitors one of them. The other one for an example was a 20 L five I'd worked on, and I got a cap kit on for that one directly from Pat, and he actually had an upgrade and one of the caps on there. And when I put the upgrade in, it actually screwed the geometry at the top of the screen up like immensely to the point where it was just crazy it made a big tilt at the top of the screen. So I went back in and I just tested the old cap and went back and backed it down to what it originally had said. So, you know, I, I, it's, it could be anything there's, is it, is it like, what do you think would be most likely is it Did I install one backwards and I just can't see it or well they all should have a little marking you know on the board and they all should face the same directions on that one. One or the only two directions they shouldn't swap I've actually people put the caps in backwards before and had them work. I couldn't believe it. I did have one guy, but he put one of the caps in backwards and six months later he's like I have vertical screen collapse. And I said send me a picture of your board and he had one in backwards and it's swollen up like a balloon. Oh yeah, I mean they will they will explode or swell. Oh my goodness. And so he caught it in time and didn't damage it but I know that like that's easiest thing to check is that but it's definitely, you know, once you go back it's more frustrating because you know you didn't do that. Pat told me that there are traces maybe built into the board that we don't see that I'm wondering if might get damaged a little bit when extracting the caps, like maybe there's a trace somewhere on the board that you can't physically see on the top of the circuit board or it's so small it's microscopic the trace that ends up breaking. I'm hoping that's the case I don't know like again until I pull that I have to pull this caps out of it and then look at probably each one on there really close up and then and then hopefully find out because it's either that or what I'm thinking is maybe some kind of voltage surge happens and it's shorting out a resistor somewhere or something like that that's causing it to stop. Now, what Pat told me is that the caps in the M series are in the power supply are great he said the caps. He said he said the caps are amazing in that when they built it. He said the problem is the ICs are not good. So those ICs, there's like a half a dozen on that board. Different regulators and and really complex ones with like eight pins on them. Is there any physical damage when those fail. Sometimes the pop tops of will blow off like and it'll be black because it basically fries other times they'll fail and you have to pull them out of circuit and and take a volt meter and go down and see where voltage is passing through them and and just give like a QC check on what based on the on the data sheet and see if it's if it's still working. Another thing that can blow is the hot on the main board. Now you know which one that is the main transformer is that the one that has all the coils around it. Let me see. No, if you look at like the board. This one will have one so it's gone here. It's the it's on the big heat sink usually and it's the biggest one it's a three prong. Right next to the flyback in that area. And that is that's a main part that can short out and blow out and so but the problem is is if you don't fix your problem and you install a new one. Your I've had the what the OEV that I worked on it was terrible because I replaced it and I replaced this part in the screen came on for like five minutes I thought it fixed and then after five minutes just running it just went and it blew the the new hot out again. So I did find a place to get replacements of those actually somehow locally within an hour of me that sells old ones because I did have to buy them from like China for like way more money because they would just they're just out of production, but hopefully I can nail this. It stinks because it's it's just something that there's not a direct answer to really. Yes, at least I don't have the direct. Yes, I mean it seems like at least the best solution for me would be just to hang tight. Well yeah. For now, for now, because that's what I'm having to do even kind of till. But it's something that like, at least with the one I had I spent goodness I spent probably five hours working on it and just didn't work out. So Mike that's another example sometimes I work on stuff and I can't it's like a bottomless pit I can never get it fixed just keep throwing hours into it. Some stuff, it can be really really quick. I actually had somebody bring back a monitor that was in Ikegami and and I should have made a video on it because it was a cool little troubleshoot. But basically his picture just went out. And those things are terrible for heaven. Cold solder joints show up. And that's what this one did but I was able to just use a voltmeter and like within five minutes figure out where the short was. And it's just basically checking voltages to make sure the voltage is going where it's supposed to not that you actually know how much voltage is needed you just need to make sure there's actually current running to a spot. And if it's not running to the spot that it's supposed to, then that kind of knows it down but it's, it could be a real, you know, sometimes it's that sometimes you get that fix it. It doesn't work. The, I had this is a terrible story, but the guy who had got the, if you guys have seen the video I did last year at the end of the year on the big Mitsubishi really old one that had all that corrosive damage on the power supply. I remember that he he lived in South Carolina he brought that over here and dropped it off months before this I fixed it came and got it and the road was so bumpy between here and there. He got it home and it developed a short because I like test it and had it running for two hours solid like before he picked it up. Yeah, he got it home and he could it just, it would stay on it and turn right off and I was like man it's so that was the most depressing was to see that because you just like man I was hoping that I try to you know but you still even stuff like that you can't really help. Sometimes you don't know that you know if you you're buying these monitors are finding them you don't know if somebody else I've seen, or somebody else has tried to repair something and made mistakes, or done bad repair work that's really eating up their boards later. But you know in a general. The ones that I like to recap are the ones that are from the 90s. The ones that really need it, at least for now, eventually they'll all need it but some of them can still generally go pretty good. The ones that were made after the year 2000 ish, and like the, I got a 2030 in the shop. Those always tend to need the deflection board recapping at least make a book good. I feel fortunate I have a 20 L five right next to this one right now, and you know that was good. I ended up buying it from a guy and he was like, you know I can't be sure of the hours but the picture is nice and bright and sharp and it's. I can turn it down, and it's just perfectly sharp and it's like that one is. That's the one that when I really want to play something and see it look best that's that's the one I go to. Yeah, that's a good one that it's 20 oh fives. It's really great because if I got a D. I've got a D 20. I don't have a 20 oh five anymore I actually the last one, another patron bought it. The beginning of November, and but I do still have the D 20 and it. It's cool, but it has like the same, you know, tube and does the same things. And it's got a lot more hardware but it's literally way bigger. The size and weight like it's a good four or five inches longer I feel like. So it's really deep whereas the 20 oh five, they actually compacted that and like by 14 oh five is that's my favorite little go to monitor if I want to like do something real quick or test something. Because it's just so easy to move around even. Yeah. Yeah, I'd like to pick up a 14 at some point but yeah, now they're just when you see them and what they cost. Yeah, I'll trade you Mike. Yeah, those ones are all over the place. Yeah. But anybody else. I mean, Alex, do you have anything else. I mean I'll definitely will keep, you know, posted on this and keep working on as we go. It's definitely something that obviously I've been working on. Yeah, for sure. I think quickly. I was just I was looking for some next steps I was trying to be as meticulous and quadruple check everything as much as I could before asking questions but I think like where I'm stuck on is like, do I install the old caps and then try to replace the fuses and the power and try to bring the power back online. I mean you could definitely try that if you wanted to and see or you can also take your meter and I believe that you should be able to test resistors. And if you want to go and look in the manual and try to find certain resistors just to check and see if any of them have blown along those paths. That's what I've tried. And again, that's that's a pain because man there are so you talk about hard trying to find the resistors. Because there's like it's like find this one resistor and it'll be somewhere on that board and that's a tiny little piece. But I had like on the d20. I had a resistor short and the tube just went out like the picture just went out and it was just because of one little resistor that kept shorting. It's amazing this stuff works at all. Okay, and oh that's why it draw I can't believe that you know some people. That's what the scariest thing to me is is like dropping almost 10 grand on some of those big monitors when there really is no guarantee that the last any any time unfortunately. Yeah, that's that's the hard part. It's like that's what I try to as like you can do as much as you want but you never can tell the best thing to do on the 2005 is just make sure that there's no dust built up because those do have short problems actually where the dust builds up and it'll get a short on the Cory, you know at the last one I did on there was like Cory from my life and gave me I actually talked to try and his shorted out over the last couple of months. So he's like I need to get this to you because his unfortunately shorted out. So, yeah. I could probably open my open and check for dust. That's the biggest problem it builds up and it can't get out of there. Yeah. So, hey Jay thanks for joining. All right. Yeah, good. How are you today. Yeah, really good. Thank you. Okay. That's cool. Yeah, we were actually sorry just we had finished up the repair, just kind of talking through some stuff. And I didn't know if you had any questions or anything we're just kind of opening up before we get out of here was. Oh man. Yeah, sorry. No, just, you know, you've got any questions. Have any questions. I'm sure there is but nothing that spring. Yeah, no pressure. Just, I don't know if I think we had asked everybody else I think with nobody else. I don't know anybody else had anything. I have a question. Okay, great. I have a consumer FB 310 that I got over the weekend. And can I like switch my camera. I don't know if you can see how it's wobbling. Now it's slowly like slowly getting larger and smaller. Yeah, like, yeah. Okay. Yeah, I mean, the ripple like that. That's, I would think though, possibly be a filter cap on the power supply area to check one of the smaller ones because those are high frequency they tend to burn out more. And generally, that's where you'd see kind of a consistent ripple like that. So that would be, do you have, do you, I mean, are you capable or do you do any kind of repair work or anything. I've only done like just modding RGB bonding consoles and stuff. Though I haven't really done like high voltage stuff. Yeah, I mean, I don't know if it's something that you really care a bunch about and want to restore. I mean, it, you know, it would be something that you probably need to get in. And most likely recap, like, at least the power section of the board and anything too that's really close to like a heat sink and the, the flyback transformer, because there's a lot of current and high frequency going through there. And those are the ones that tend to wear out the quickest. A lot of the other areas on the board where you don't have the same levels of heat, then you won't have those caps can last, you know, forever. If they, because a lot of these areas, they won't even get up to, you know, much hotter than room temperature, which is not going to put stress on the capacitors. But definitely on your circuit board, whatever kind of board you're looking at, anything that has these bigger heat sinks, and there's not actually a flyback on this board, but there would be caps around that. And sometimes to on these boards, there will be spots next to the heat sinks, same kind of thing where your voltage is going in and out, that's a high voltage going to the yoke, or the actual neck board, if there's any caps around that. That's another place where, especially smaller caps can dry out. And then fail. And so, most likely it's one of those. You know, if you wanted to try to like troubleshoot it a little bit, you could check your voltage on wherever a couple spots, you know, pick some spots where the voltage you can try to read if it's five volts and 12 volts and make sure this is steady. And you know, even if I think you, if you got it near where the safe it's a high voltage, it's probably the 12 volt, but you could measure and see if your voltage drops a lot from 12 volts. And that means that there's going to be a cap somewhere in that line that needs to be replaced. That's kind of, that's kind of where I would go from there. It's probably best to do a full recap though, right? I mean, if you want, yeah, it depends. Yeah, if you want it to make it, give it its best chance, because the tube still looks good if there's no screen burn. And the times that the tube can go bad, I feel like it's when you get a faster, that's most of the time when a tube, I'd be worried more about a tube having a short. If it was a quicker jitter all over the whole screen, like really fast. Right. So that's that that can be a tube where the tube is just kind of worn out. If it gets that or the flyback. But it doesn't make any funny noises or anything when it's turned on. Not really, like, if sometimes if I have a full like white grid up, I'll have all here like a little bit of wine, like coil wine. Yeah, that's kind of normal. But yeah, like, no, it's other than that, I think it's okay. Okay, I mean, I do have, I do have geometry, like some weird geometry issues. Yeah. That is like exacerbated by the wobbling. I definitely try to recap it if you want it, if you want it to like use it for a long time, because you don't want to use it like that, where it's going to do that. And I'm sure that over time, it'll just probably get worse the more hours you put on it. I think that one too is more well documented than others. Yeah, there's a good possibility that you could easily find a service manual for that. And there might even be a lot of times I still Google stuff on there and find, you know, Reddit threads or something. Yeah, I found someone that made like a full like list of capacitors for the TV. That's good. Yeah, that's, that's waste. That's a way step ahead. Most of the time. So yeah, I just go ahead and try that recap. And what I was going to say about the noise. If the, you know, if there's weird whining and it dips and dups, that's, you know, the flyback you can hear sometimes you can hear, not everybody can but the high frequency pitch it makes out. But if there's a problem with the flyback, you can generally hear it make like a weird dip sound, where it's just not putting out the consistent high level because that's supposed to put out a really quick current that drops and intensity and then goes back up to high voltage and drops and does that over and over and over again. And if that wears out that then you get a gap in between that drop. And then it makes a funnier noise. So but if you're if you don't hear like a funny drop in noise norm when it's just normally running, then the flybacks probably still okay. I mean, I've not really run into too many situations where the flybacks bad. That's a relief. Yeah, I mean, most of the time I've not not on these I know in arcades, you know those have so many hours on them though. Arcade machines, they generally do have to some people will replace them but you never really want to replace one unless you definitely have to now if you guys do. It has happened. And I don't even have the five X but save up Pat usually does and he sells them for I think like 50 or 70 bucks or something so it's nice to at least you know if you need one. Sometimes he hasn't still going at it at like mid 80s. It's amazing. Occasionally, I dropped in a few emails usually I answered my own questions just sending him an email and detailing the, you know, really going into details into troubleshooting and then half an hour later I saw the issue. Like to my own email say oh thanks just writing to you help me solve the problem. Something in the fridge, like you have to ask where it is and then all of a sudden it appears. Yeah, he. I try to take it easy on him. So I whenever I email him I just like this last resource will be like, do you have this part, or if I ever do anything long I always just send him hey, can you just give me a call at your convenience. And then I end up being on the phone and like 3045 minutes and he's like I gotta go I gotta get out of here. And so I feel kind of bad because I'm just anytime I get to talk to him I'm just trying to, you know, any trick that he knows. I'm like you got to tell me before you know he won't be doing it anymore and then nobody. You know, the thing that, and I don't know if a lot of you guys know this but I talked to him for a long time and he, before he worked for Sony, he worked for B and K testers, which makes the tube testers that I've actually got one I've been restoring it the problem is I don't have any adapters for it, because there's this one will work on. There's few models that will work on pvms and pvm tubes as a tester, and even as a recharger. So if you have a bad tube that doesn't have burn in it, and it doesn't have a specific color completely out, you can potentially recharge it. And he does work sometimes the short still but anyway, he worked for the company that designed and he was a lead engineer like design and sell those and service them. He went all over the world like giving presentations on this machine that was used to rejuvenate all the tubes, and then he was approached to go work for Sony and, and he was in the lead of their, you know, the cutting edge which would have been Hollywood in the 90s and 2000s when they were using CRTs. And he was just servicing them to every production studio or production business in California. But he personally do you know I talked to found out that he like his dad was, I think his dad was some kind of engineer electrical engineer. So, Pat was apparently working on circuit boards to use like 10, and his dad shop so yeah I mean that's like 70 years of, and he knows like everything he's got every tool he's like, you know, so it's, that's why it's like always to me it's like, I'm just getting a chance to speak to him a little bit is just, I'm sure it drives him crazy because he could probably sit on the phone all day with guys like us to just call to talk about stuff, but then the other day be exhausted just talking to us, but Well Steve I think you've kind of turned into that person for all of us here. Yeah, you're definitely on your way going. Yeah, I had a question if you didn't mind Steve. And so I've got these two monitors I messaged you the other day. Yes, I said I got. Yeah, and I've gotten somewhere here. Much to my wife should grin but I found somebody funny enough today he's going to work on them so if anyone is in the UK, send you a link to anyone who else. Yeah, be great yeah make up make either a post or send me a message, and I'll make a post about it. If you find them and you want to get. I can send you you know the capitalists and stuff that I've got. Thank you through email and then he can use them, or any of that amazing. And the one I remember you saying the one that was like and locked in into mode right. Yeah, it's got a what the tally light and none of the buttons work. Yeah, yeah, that's right the the left hand side to the 16 by nine the overstand those buttons work but the buttons to the right and the speaker doesn't work. The other knobs at the chroma phase control and volume. Yeah, it's a bit of a weird one. I am I took the side off that I was going to ask you, Steve, I think it's been reworked. I don't know if you can see that very well. It's actually standard from Sunday. So don't worry, right actually did put those jumpers in a lot of those. That's not that's not been that's that's common. So, let's get to that. Yeah, don't worry about that that's common what I would say is that maybe there's a disconnection. There's two cables at the very front of your board that connect the input board to the there's two, you know, cable connections like 1015 pin. One of those could be dislodged a little bit and just not connected, or there could be a cold solder join along that connection cable. Or I have had where something's wrong on the board and I imagine it's either because there's not much on that board like the actual button board. But I've gone in and I've been in a situation one time where it was similar buttons, some of the buttons weren't working. I had the extra board from a salvaged model, and I just went and swap the boards. And so something happened on the board where it was either there's only really a couple of resistors on there. And then the buttons so my guess is it, I never actually fixed I think I just threw in the parts been and forgot about it. But I'm guessing that there was either a resistor or cold solder joint somewhere on that board that would have broken that current. Because again there's not much on that board that. But that's like the easiest first thing would be just to see if that cables dislodged at all maybe you're lucky, and it is okay you plug it back in and it will work. But that's, that's where I start with that one that one sounds like it would probably have the potential to be a really good one if you just get it to work that button board to work. Yeah, so what one is older than the other one and I took the back off both and finally left the one that looks newer seems to have more issues whereas the one that's been reworked. It has less issues and it sounds silly that just to give you some context it was pretty really really really dusty and that's the point where it sounded like a bit of a fireworks factory. Yeah, well pretty messed up in there. I was just gonna say if they're both the same monitor and dependent on whether one is, you know if both of them aren't completely fixable. You could use the, you know you could have your tech use the boards to make you one really awesome. And that's, that's usually that happens a lot where I'll have somebody bring in. I mean the guy, I've got stacks of them here still that that's one of the things that's got a tube short problem and a bunch of them. But, you know, like he brought sometimes we bring in a couple of the same monitor that are in like really rough shape and then we try to I try to get you know one good one out of two bad ones. So, I know for sure that you probably could do that because I guarantee the button board, if the but if it's not the cable connection, more than likely it's something on that button board, and then that. So, you know worst case scenario you could take it out of the other one that that probably has a good button board put it in this one and be fine. But you know either way, and if the other ones if they're both savable though, you can, you know have to and then, you know, have more than just one and parts. Well, my wife seems to be thinking but I'm keeping one so we'll see how. Yeah, we'll see. You can just tell her that one was just for parts and make sure it's working. Oh yeah, absolutely. Thank you. Yeah, absolutely. I don't know anybody else have anything else here. I don't know how I can surprise zoom I guess it's it's the first time they just let it roll on forever, because I know we're well over 45 minutes. All right, I don't see anything else anybody last chance. I just want to thank you so much. Thank you. Yeah, thanks again for coming in everybody I will try to make this more of a frequent thing for sure at least once a month. If you do have anything that like you know, want to try like Mike did today. And you want to have your topic be it let me know and I'll definitely schedule you and we can work on it together and just do whatever we can okay. Yeah, thank you so much. Yeah, thanks guys. Yes. Thanks to you guys. Bye.