 Hello everyone, I'm Steve and welcome to today's Retro Tech. We're going to do another installment, just going to be a quicker, shorter one for this certain installment on our PVM that we're doing our capacitor replacement on. Last video you might have seen where we had taken the whole PVM apart, talked about the job that was upcoming. We documented all our capacitors and the reason I'm doing this video today is I want to just kind of do a kind of shorter in between where I talk about the tools I'll be using in this next part of the job. I'm going to again go through the steps a little bit more clearly and then the capacitors did arrive from the Mouser, the company that I ordered the capacitors from. They all came in the mail today, so I figured it would be a good chance to just take a quick look at them and you can see what it looks like. To have that many capacitors, you're going to have to replace them. I'm talking about almost 130 in total that are going to be replaced on this monitor. So let's just go ahead and take a quick look. Let's take a look down here at the monitor broken down again. You can see right, metal scraps someone wrote on our monitor case here. So I'll clean this up a little bit more, get those stickers down there off. But the real thing I'm wanting to do is I'm going to show you in the other video that these rivets, you can just basically pull them apart and slip a screwdriver. I'll show you how to do that, but I'm going to take and break this down into two pieces on the monitor shell. I'm going to break it in two pieces. And then I'm going to actually repaint this. So I did need some help. I wonder what you guys thought of maybe a good color would be on this. I was thinking about priming it and then making it maybe a gray to match the inside of the bezel on the monitor. I'll show you that in a second or maybe a black. I wasn't really sure which one looked better. So if you have an opinion on it, please let me know in the comments. Because as long as it's in the next couple of days before we get started on it, but you will see that again. Let's move over here a little bit more. These are the boards where you're going to be recapping these two, you know, our neck board and then our main board here. And now I've had a lot of people asking me and talking about, you know, why would you recap the whole board? It's not necessary or what do you think about recapping the whole board? And look, there's really, it's not really any right or wrong way about it. You know, you don't have to replace them all. I'm doing that in this because I don't want to have to worry about any other maintenance in the future. And I'm kind of doing to prevent anything from going bad and maybe causing some damage to the board. It could just be something that is not even in use very much, but the capacitor goes bad and leaks out on the board and causes some kind of problem. So this monitor itself is actually well over 20 years old. It's from 1996. While it's all disassembled, I'm going to go ahead and do it. Now, if this was a 2030 or one of those older models that is very large that has like four times this many capacitors, there's probably no way. I had rebuilt it all unless I really had to, and it was worth it. Basically putting about $1,000 worth of time into it. So anyway, let's go down here. Here's the monitor. And this was kind of the gray I was going to try to match on in here in the bezel and then the number color and the Olympus branding and the buttons. I was going to try to get that kind of a gray on the shell. So it have a cooler look than the cream it does now. So those, that's our monitor again. Let's go over here and we'll start looking at the tools that we're going to be using for this. And just have to bear with me on the camera. But we can start off here with the soldering iron. So this is a HACCO and it is the FX888D. I've had this for about three years almost, maybe two and a half. Really solid unit, never gives me any trouble. I have got a couple of extra spare tips for it that are pretty easily available. But other than that, everything on it just works really well. Temperature control is nice and just a solid one for a good price. I can't really remember how much this was, but it was really affordable and a lot cheaper than the desoldering gun behind it, which is in this very nice carrying case right here. I'll try to pick it up without dropping it. I'll be using a lot and this is an amazing piece or tool that will help you hear that click. It just turns the soldering going on and it sucks in their solder in this chamber that I can easily remove. And it does an amazing job for quickly and safely removing capacitors and other components. And so those are going to be the two main things while I'm replacing the capacitors. I will have some other tools. Let's go ahead and take a look kind of down here. So I've got just some needle nose pliers in case I need to grab onto a capacitor and pull out of a tight space. My multiple tool, little screwdriver, you never know when you need that. Here's my little nips for anything trimming up components. And then I will use a lot of this flux while I resolder back in and it's a no clean flux. And I use it a lot because it's very helpful. It helps distribute your solder without causing any troubles of this is a solder I usually use most of the time. Now I don't just stick this big portion on the end into the soldering spot. I'll just put a little bit of a dab of this. I'll touch it to my soldering tip like this. As it's hot I'll touch it like this and get some fresh solder on the tip here and then I usually just quickly go over and push that against there. I'll add a top at the top of the tip up here a little bit extra if I need to and then go in and dab it on the spot. That way I don't use too much solder. I can control how much I really need to get on there. You can use a smaller applicator that's fine too or a smaller gauge. That's not a big deal. This is rosin core again so that helps with your connection makes it a little bit easier. So that's just a quick rundown of the tools. And the last thing I've got here is the box of parts. That's right our capacitors came in the mail today. This is how it was looked. It looked like it was just a 30 packs of capacitors, 30 different types. And this is how you get when you get them. I mean you just get them all sent. Which one's bagged individually is 30 bags. So what I'll do is I'll lay all these out and put them in a row. Here's my data sheets too. It gives you nice data sheets saying all the statistics on every single part we order lots of that information. And the mouse here again does a great job. You'll notice most of my caps are either going to be black, or I use these other brands. I'll show you they're red. So they stand out when you change them. They're high quality too and a newer brand that I've just decided to give a chance to and they work really well on my past projects. So I've been using them a little bit more. But this is what you get. And so the next step is just going to be we're going to jump right into the job. I'm going to be set up to start desoldering and soldering back capacitors into the board down there with the monitor. And that's going to be it. We're going to get ahead and get going on the job. You'll see the, you'll see me, I'll replace a few capacitors and you know talk about that and then we'll repaint that shell and we'll put it back together in the next video. Thanks again for watching today. And I'm glad you stuck around for this quick update and have a great day.