 to get it recovered and chop that headmaster out. Well, look at those prices. I'm gonna go ahead and write them down now where I've got something to look at when I get done. Eight. If I can get this thing recovered, just gonna reuse the refrigerant and a sense of waste and we've got a new tank here. Last trip, I was curious about our time, so we're 907-ish area. So that seems to be working okay. That's one way to do it. Just chop it off and do it right at the nectar there. Gonna go ahead and clean this thing up. I'm gonna unbrace what I can unbrace, like this one right here. Should just have to do that one right there. So we'll go ahead and unbrace this one, we'll unbrace that one, pull it out, and then we'll just make a nipple for that one right there. Hey, there's a little bitty strainer right there. I got a nitrogen purge going through it right now, so like I said, right here's a little strainer. Oh my, geez, oh, crime me. Holy crap, look at that. Look at that crap. That, oh my gosh, that is freaking ridiculous. That black stuff is all over it. That, my friends, is what happens when you do not use nitrogen. Poor valve, like you see that crap flaking off? You can't even see through that thing. This thing has been brazed on so many times with no nitrogen. It's just packed full of crap. Goes to show you, nitrogen's kind of important. I don't like doing it either, but it's paying the butt, but if you want the job done right, it's what you gotta do. I'm telling you though, what makes the job so much easier is if you got one of these regulators, just set it for purge and she does her thing. I wouldn't say it's necessarily defective valve, but here's the thing, even though that was plugged up, I'm not taking a chance putting it back in there. So could we have taken apart and possibly cleaned it? Yeah, but not all of them necessarily have that screen, and then you've taken the whole refrigerant charge out, putting it back in, well, a lot of time wasted. So I still stand by changing the valve and being done with it. I'm gonna purge through here and see if I'm getting more crap out of it. Let it build up some pressure. Look at that crap came out of the receiver even. The new one did not come with a strainer, unfortunately, got your receiver, your condenser, and your discharge, DCNR. If you use the blow through the condenser right now, nothing will come out, but you can go right through your receiver or your discharge and it'll just go on through. So naturally, when this thing has no pressure on it, it's holding back the condenser and let's a certain amount go through, you can actually hear it. So it looks quite a bit of gas through there. LAC4215, made in the United States. I love it when things are made here. Be nice, more masks were made here, huh? So receiver just here, so it's gonna point down. Discharges right there and there's the other. So we can fit that right on there like that. This we can bring back in here like this. And then this piece right here will just make a stub real quick. Keep all my copper on one of those little husky strap things. So I got half inch, quarter inch, and three eighths. So to make it simple, I just brought the whole roll up and it's like chopping a big chunk off. Three eighths, this little drill can run it. Nice and simple. I love that swedge tool from Hillmore, but my God, I'm not paying 380 bucks for this stupid thing. So four fingers, that's my measuring system. Well, about three fingers. So right there at three fingers. Maybe, deeper that real quick. The burrs ain't bad, you can kinda do that. Yeah, smooth out the edges. And they're like that. Thet up there like that, shove it together. You'll be able to run nitrogen through these fittings right here, no problem. This one here is gonna be the one you really aren't gonna be able to. So you just gotta do your best with it. Gonna go ahead and get this one done first. I like my hot block, but that stuff's kind of messy sometimes. We're gonna mess this thing up a little bit. Make sure you slide her in all the way. There we go, like that. Into the joint, there we go. Got that cool firm moment. I like my braze joints to look like a solder joint when you're done. Just slowly cool it down. I don't wanna like rapidly cool it cause you will weaken your joint and you're hardening the metal, but same time, you gotta balance it. 250 degrees is the max they want. Sometimes strips of paper towel sometimes works pretty nice too. Which is always kind of surprising if you think about it. I would have never thought of that. I made a photo of the guy that was doing it and I started trying it and actually it's not too bad. But I do one thing I don't like is you get that thing too close to this joint and you take forever to heat that thing up and then you're on it forever, which then ends up transferring the heat through to the valve and that's not a good thing. Take our primary priest first. Okay, battery went dead. So we went ahead and stopped at that one there and I'm gonna go ahead and reposition my rag again. But just gonna make sure everything stays cool. I like to do one piece at a time. I'm not gonna say I'm the Breezing Authority, but I do feel as though I do a good job. Some people might think my frame's too big, but even in the book there from Sporlin says get on, get off. Don't be on there with a tiny teeny little flame rinsing back in school days. They're like, yeah, you need a little pencil tip, you know, like your TIG welding or something. And you're on that thing forever. Next thing you know, you blow a hole through it. I like more of a softer flame, technically oxidizing. You're supposed to have a neutral flame. But like I said, I'm not the Authority on it, but I know what works and don't look too bad for an amateur. Go ahead and get that last one down there. Like I said, nitrogen's flowing right on through. It's coming right out over here. I just barely feel it coming out through the receiver there. Hunk of towel here. It's freaking in the way. This is where it's just too thick. Total pain in the hind end. Total pain in the hind end. I'll tell you what, we're gonna go ahead and use hot block. I just don't like the way this stuff breaks apart. I don't know if I'm not doing something right or what. It really reminds me of the paper towels that shop towels. It'd be kind of funny if this stuff ain't nothing more than some shop towels that's been grinded up and then added some flame retardancy to it. We get on and get off pretty quick. We should be all right. Some people probably think this is so over engineered here and they're making too big of a deal about it. A little bit of time you spend here could prevent you having a callback later. Put that capillary action, pull it up in there. Trying to put most of my heat on the actual valve there to make sure it all pulls up in there. I can hold my hand there. Kinda. So just cool it down down here at the bottom. I'm not on the joint itself. I know. This ain't what you're supposed to do. All my crevices look to be full. No melting on the sticker. So we know that we didn't overheat the valve by the sticker. Now that doesn't necessarily mean that you torched it or destroyed it internally, but you definitely can tell. And while that's pulling the vacuum, pop this apart and take a look inside. You can see that that's really dark. Nothing in there, but you can see the blackness on the inside of that. There's your sealed cap ring, piston seal. That's what floats back and forth. You can see that crap. Then you've got an actual, so that actually is pretty free. Yeah, it probably could have been cleaned up, but like I said, you waste too much time. You know, you probably could have taken it apart, popped the head off, cleaned some of this crap out, but the amount of time to pull the vac on it and then start all over again, if it didn't work, you may have just cost them two hours, you know. And then, you know, that's more than the cost of the valve. Just cut that off. There's another one of them, little bad boys in there. So we had one coming through the discharge and the receiver both. So they had a strainer basically on both of them, but unfortunately they didn't send me new strainers and I'm not gonna reuse these dirty things. All right, for giggles, I'm gonna go ahead and do it off the suction side of the tank and just flip it upside down. I've already bled my hose there. Like I said, I'm gonna go ahead and just add a base charge here, we're gonna get a full site glass and then we're gonna kind of see what it takes to fill it up solid and then add the extra for it. Calculated in. This is a pretty short line set. We're basically going right from here over the edge and right down to over the edge of the roof. So we're not talking a whole bunch and it should kick on at the pointy something. Both fans are running, which is good. Basically completely. Superheat says it's 80 degrees, which DXV looks like it's been changed once before or it's restricted. But my head pressure is not very high. So I'm gonna say we're gonna go down here and open it up a touch and see what we get. All right, I can hear it. It does not feel, it does not sound like it's feeding properly at all. It actually has, I can't really tell from here. Actually has a strainer there. I'm gonna pump this thing down and check that strainer real quick. My hand pumped it down three seater. TXV is 404, so we have the right TXV in here. At least we got it open. I went ahead and ignored it, but I shouldn't have. We're cold coming out of the condenser. 100% bypassing and going straight into the receiver. Receiver's hot, very hot. Pepture coming out of the valve there. One box of dog on close to town. I'm going to parallel that on there and go down there and see if we can get this superheat set up. It's been a pain in my butt. Never seen one hold this much. Very unusual. I think right now at about two pounds and a half. I mean, granted, just a weird small one. I would have never thought it would have held this much. Here's where connected. I got the superheat to 21 box right now, 13 degrees. So we're getting close. This is right after the TXV, five degrees, 12 degrees after it. So we're checking the temperature after the TXV versus the outgoing side. This is a little trick. Learned off all Jim Panetto. This tends to be quicker than the traditional superheat method or at least gives me, they're closer. So right now, 12 minus five should be about seven. That's about the ballpark we need. So you got a seven degree Delta T across to your evaporator going in, going out on the refrigeration side. Suction's a lot better. Didn't look up my high side. Superheat's 21. I'm going to say we're going to get closer to that once we get close to the box. Like I said, box in here is a 12. You really want to adjust it when you're about to zero. So we'll tweak it a little bit as we get closer. So, March news, that's the one I really like. Those guys seem to really have the best best articles out there that I've seen. So you've got mostly liquid, some liquid vapor flashing. That's where I was checking at. And here you should have a hundred percent vapor. So, this little deal here, I mean, it's literally in the bone startup manuals for instances like this where somebody didn't put a pressure cap for the suction line. Should have left it where it was at. The compressor superheat overrides the evaporator superheat. So, take it back, and they respond back in a second. These doggone TXVs, they take forever to respond. And there's my Tester Pro I'm using for the box. Like I said, just feel if these brooms don't do real good, super extreme cold or extreme heat. All right, our superheat out here keeps swinging a little bit too. And out of the additional 1.3 pounds. Kind of have to be careful since it's cold outside. I don't want to calculate it as if it's a nice warm day. So, this thing holds 13.5 pounds. I just felled it off the receiver. Watching her pressures here. And she shuts off. And you figure too, headmaster probably is doing a little trickery there. So, we'll go ahead and check to see what our level is in this puppy. Probably should have done this earlier. So, I heated this up a little bit. And all of a sudden, right, boom, I start feeling the temperature. So, we're somewhere in this ballpark right here. That's about 80%. So, yeah, so we're well over half. I'm gonna say we are good to go. It's time to wrap this one up. Basically, get that head pressure up there, block off the coil, whatever you gotta do so that you're leading, feeding liquid all the way through there. Once you get her happy, pump her down, make sure she holds. This one here has a solenoid valve down below. So, it's got extra room for the refrigerant thanks to the 3-8 swan. All right, I wanted to go into a couple things I mentioned in the video because I'm sure I might have some questions on it or someone may be disagreeing with me. So, here's heat crafts refrigeration startup installation manual. The unit I was working on was not a heat craft, but pretty much they all are going to follow about the same principles and guidelines because they're all gonna have either Copeland or Tecumseh or something like that. So, one of the things I wanted to go over first was the alternative super heat method. And the time that you'd use this would be when you basically are missing your suction port and you don't have any way to put your gauge there at it at the, where the sensing bulb is to calculate it out. So, going down here to an alternative super heat method and like I said, this is right here in the book from heat craft. This was part number 2501201. Granted it was back in 2007, but this has not changed even as of today. So, alternative super heat method. The most accurate method of measuring super heat is found by following the previous procedure, which is your traditional suction line temperature minus your suction line saturation temperature. However, that method may not always be practical. An alternative method which will yield fairly accurate results is the temperature temperature method. Measure the temperature of the suction line at this point, the bulb is clamped, outlet. Measure the temperature of one of the distributor tubes close to the evaporator coil inlet. Subtract the inlet temperature from the outlet temperature. The difference is super heat. So, this method will provide fairly accurate results. So, I wanted to point that out because I know when I watched some of Jim's videos, people ripped him a new butt one side down the other and basically made it sound like he was an idiot. But he even said in there that one of the manufacturers back in the day said that it was okay. I've tried this method and generally it will be almost identical to the regular super heat method that we use. This time here it wasn't. One of the reasons why I kind of liked it was because it seems to react a lot quicker than the TXV does. TXV is gonna swing up and down and it just seems like it gets you there quicker. And then once the TXV is done playing, it's games are going up and down, it usually ends up working out okay. And then kind of going back to here, this is a review for most everyone out there. It's been in the field for 120 years, but the minimum compressor super heat is 20 degrees. And to kind of further that one there, Copeland mandate some minimum of 20 degrees at the compressor and they recommend between 20 and 30 degrees. If adjustments to the suction super heat need to be made, the expansion valve at the evaporator should be adjusted. So they were basically just pointing out that you need to worry about your super heat at your compressor, giving yourself some leeway for when it's moderate temperatures outside so that you don't have slugging of the compressor or should not your oil from the compressor. And you recommended super heat here with a 10 degree delta T. They want somewhere between six and 10. If you have a 15 degree delta T type coil, you could go 12 degrees to 15 degrees super heat. So just wanted to point a couple of those things out there. Far as the charging too for the condenser, they basically wanted you to have a liquid line temperature of 105 degrees. If not, they want you to block off the coil. These are all things that basically I'd forgot to say something about. You got to remember guys, like right now I'm at home, now I have time to do it. I don't have any type of script worked out. We're doing these calls basically as they come in and I'm just talking as I'm working and sometimes my mind is not focused on what I'm saying. So that's a lot of times reason why there's some pauses and things like that in between it. And yes, I do talk quickly and that's just how I am all the time depending on what I'm going into. But you'd be surprised. The information they give you in this startup manual here has got everything from how to lay out your location of your evaporator. Basically, they've got your obvious things in here far as watching out for when you got coupling there, when you got your bulb getting mounted there, where they want the bulb set up. I mean, this stuff is review, but hey, new guys, you're the reason why I'm doing these videos. Plus, you know, for me going back through and relearning things is never a bad idea. A lot of information is in here and you'd be surprised a lot of times if you don't read them. I don't read them either. So I was really surprised when you go through here and you kind of get looking at it, things like your low pressure cut in here. You know, for my area, we're somewhere around the negative 10 to no more than negative 20. You're cut in for 404s right around 20. I usually do about 23 to 20 area. So I mean, they've got that information in here. Here's your different head pressure controls, dual valve, single valve, and ambient fan cycle far as checking your pressures on the discharge side instead of actually checking it where I was checking it at, which was on the receiver. But my other valve port was taken by the dual pressure control that I had there. The recommendations far as your fan cycle, they want to keep a 90 degree. So when your fan gets down to about 90 degree saturation temperature, that's when you want it to shut off. Anyhow guys, I just wanted to point those things out real quickly so that I could kind of just back up what I was trying to tell you guys. And other than that, until next time guys, we'll catch you on the next one.