 Hey everybody and welcome back today on RetroTech. We're going to be walking through a lot more recapping of the Sony BVM D24 E1WU again very high-end Sony CRT professional monitor This particular one came from a television studio, which I discussed briefly before but it was part of a load of three of them today's monitor has over 68,000 Total hours on the chassis and the whole monitor itself And I can tell from inspection that it has the original capacitors inside all the boards now prior to this We've recap the PA board and today we're going to specifically look at the other Cluster of boards on the back on the right-hand side of the screen over here that is our group of Kind of power supply boards and the first one we're going to work on is the G board Which is the the power supply board for this monitor the main one the PA board we recap prior did Does do some power functions, but this is the main power board and the good thing about servicing these boards is They do not have to be You know you don't have to discharge the monitor actually even take it apart really to get the cards out and service them so you there's no real reason you should have to discharge this BVM if You wanted to get a card service The good thing about that is is you could always buy a replacement card if something happened to your power board or If you had a malfunction on one of the other boards you could buy a replacement slip in your New replacement board and slip out your other board and just either get rid of it send it back to Sony Or you could try to repair it now today again. I'm running through and recap in this one. It's going to start with Just removing all the old electrolytic capacitors just so you know this one was from like the 1999 area 2000 ish early 2000s is the manufacturer date on this monitor so the main reason I wanted to pull these specific capacitors out of these boards is I really wanted to see How this monitor breaks down over time and This is a good time to do it because they were talking about a 20-year window here on these caps and we'll want to take them all out and then Not just replace them with new caps But I also want to actually take all the caps from these boards and I'm going to run some tests on them I don't actually have You know me running the test. I've got a new meter here that is this little meter and I may do some testing videos with It in the future but what it will do is it will test the Capacitance value, you know in micro farance for these capacitors So what I did was I removed all the capacitors for example first off from this G power supply board and then I kept them and Then I hooked them all up to my little meter here and I tested every capacitor to see what the capacitor health was 20 years and 68,000 hours later and I did that again for every single capacitor on this meter. It's a very nice meter I'll talk about it again in the future, but First off on the G board surprisingly, you know none Not a single one of the capacitors on this G board was out of tolerance So the tolerance on these is 20 percent for example if you have a 1000 micro faran capacitor 20 percent tolerance allows you to go 20 percent up or down above that 1000 micro faran number So you could go up as high as 1200, but generally Speaking most capacitors aren't going to go over spec a lot of times more often than not They're going to fall and start to degrade and go lower on that Spectrum so you're most likely going to be seeing the 200 down on for example a 1000 micro faran Capacitor you could have it go down to 800 now that's still technically right at the edge of spec but that's an example and then if you go any beyond 20 percent then you are out of spec and That's what I was really trying to find out here Is it for any of these caps were out of spec or whatnot and the G board surprisingly even with 68,000 hours? Did not have Really any issues with the capacitors least not the electrolytics and this one only has electrolytics through holes and So there's not a huge or really any benefit To just going in and replacing these capacitors if they have that much life left on them because honestly Sony When they bought these capacitors originally they had them You know they were able to get some of the best capacitors in the world and they're they're obviously high quality And so holding up and they still could have You know if the if the heat doesn't get up high enough in the capacitors and the seals don't break down You could run them another 10 years and another 30 plus thousand hours most likely without any trouble So again, even though I recapped this entire board This specific G board and there weren't any capacitors wrong It was a study worth doing but it's quite interesting I thought that again There's not a lot of loss as far as Capacitance on these capacitors and sometimes what you'll run into now the trouble I will have is it's very difficult to find the perfect capacitor Sony had the perfect capacitors in These originally think about it. They were able to get them. Well now unfortunately due to supply chain Breakdowns over the last six months We are having a lot more trouble getting the perfect capacitor replacement now at least as an in stock Kind of deal where sometimes you have to get on long waiting list just to get the right capacitor Okay, so if you don't have to recap it It's generally not the best idea to just go in and recap the G board because a lot of those capacitors are still good The second board I worked on it's just second in line right next to that is the buff board Now the buff board also Is it's not got really anything to do with the power? so much to say as it's If there is in the sub menu and I'll show it to you later on them We're more going through the menus on the menu breakdown video of the monitor that The buff board will control some different things on there for functionality It appears to be like you know your cursors and a lot of The things that are like your monitor settings. I believe that's what it is I'm not a hundred percent sure we'll make sure that it's the case when we go through the manual and the settings themselves, but Some settings controlled nothing major as far as something like Geometry though, that's not got anything to do with the buff board and There it is with all the capacitors out and all these new capacitors in and this one had Two types of capacitors on it one was all 16 The whole 100 micro faran and then just one 1000 micro faran capacitor But again the same thing was with this buff board There was not a single capacitor bad on it and that one didn't surprise me so much because there's not a lot of high heat components on the buff board itself the buff board is not Gonna be subject to a lot of heat the only heat it really gets is it's gets a heat from both the Deflection board and then the power supply unit because it sits right in the middle of them So it does get the heat from those two boards and that's pretty much the only heat exposure, but it's very well shielded You saw me take that shielding off at the beginning, but just to Make sure that There was nothing wrong with the capacitors on the buff board again just like the other board I recapped it I tested all the capacitors with the meter and every one of these was well within tolerance Outside of the one larger capacitor that you do see over here. That's the 6.3 volt 1000 micro faran capacitor it dropped from 1000 down to 813 so that is still within tolerance technically and most likely you would definitely not see any Performance issues with something like that on such as minor board and capacitor But it is showing you that there is some wear out That would be more of a time wear out most likely as Compared to other elements of more heat and high ripple currents breaking it down So there's that shielding I discussed with you as it put back on the outside of the board. It's on each side finally The third board in line here, and you'll notice that I'm taking these boards out one at a time I'm not actually taking one out and putting it back in I'll put them all back in at the end I'll show you that This is the third board in sequence. It's the deflection board or the eboard Please note that there is this one bunch of cables There are two connectors over here that you saw me undo one is the main connector And then there is a ground cable connection Again lots of capacitors in this one it had quite a few electrolytics and this would did have a lot of heat sinks on it and So this one I figured might have an opportunity to Actually have some capacitor breakdown to the point where we may have actually needed to replace some of the capacitors in it, but That and that was the case for this board there were a few capacitors that were bad I'll go through them again because or not again in this video per se but what I'm gonna do is I'll have some Information coming soon about the full cap kits that's gonna be what I call the shotgun cap kit Which is just a minor cap kits of these Capacitors that are failing or tending to fail from my study as opposed to all the 95 percent other of the capacitors That are not so there's one of being five capacitors that were failing on this From my memory's sake. I remember they were 470 micro faran capacitors and they were dropping well over 100 below 470 down into the like 330 320 range which means they were falling straight out of spec and then eventually they may fail Probably would have taken a lot more time But again those two capacitors were that four capacitors were like that and then it was another 6.3 volt 1000 micro farans that got down to below 800 so the funny thing is is when I tracked where those Capacitors are located. They're located right next to heat sinks. They're all in line with each other So it really makes a lot more sense when you see that they're all Together gonna be you know affected and then it makes sense why they're kind of wearing out especially next to the heat source so that's Helpful information to know that there which capacitors are actually failing and again It just makes sense why they're failing they're next to the hot points and it's over time It's well outside of the stated Lifespan of the capacitor because you're talking about something with almost 70,000 hours of usage and They don't rate them that high normally they only rate them You know based on 105 degrees Celsius or 85 degrees Celsius But the problem a lot of people can get into is if you just go and change every capacitor like I did you could actually get capacitors that You still get them within spec and they'll work fine and they'll work perfectly for You know they could go five ten fifteen thousand hours, but they won't last generally as long as those ones that Sony specifically had designed for this and they had bought originally especially when they had parts availability and a big company like Sony would have had first claim to any High-tech components they could have gone in and purchased any that they wanted and had priority over other parts Neaters, I guess what you could say, but what I mean by some of the needs the parts like someone just doing second-hand repair like me for example and So Sony would have had direct claim to the first stocks available And I'm not even saying that there would have been a problem with components or getting components back then because I don't know but That's the situation we're in today where it may actually be better off on a high-end monitor like the D 32 the D 24 and the D 20 we're still in with this Lifespan of these boards really being with intolerance still most of the part So if I pause it really quickly, I want to show you these capacitors. I was mentioning These two right here where my cursor is that's two of them and I don't think I'll be able to show you the other side of it but There's a heat sink up here and on the other side of that those The capacitors hiding behind it were the others that were going bad on that board so the other ones were good all the other ones I've still got them here and That's the old capacitors, but Let's go ahead now and reassemble our DVM and make sure that everything works fine Another thing to note on this eboard is this thing gets extremely hot when it's running I don't worry that is normal, but you need to be aware of that That particular board will be good. I mean that heatsink gets really really hot back there So just slide it in Connects the cable and then turn the Phillips head screw on the top of the bottom Those screws do not come all the way out They just go in enough to tighten and this one this buffboard along with the other input video core cards and the ISO or ISR board all screw in like manually by hand or you can use a flat-head screwdriver on them if they get stuck the power board is very easy to slide into at the end if you go in that sequence and you put the Deflection board in first and then the buff board and then the G board if you put it back in in that sequence You'll definitely have the easiest time of getting them all back in there of it Everything worked out perfectly. I mean the monitor works great and again, the best part of all this is just being able to find out which capacitors are failing and kind of the rate they are failing at and Hopefully get it figured out so that in the future We could just avoid really being wasteful and change the capacitors that we don't need to change because they'll still have 50,000 hours with the life on them and then what and then the we need to change the important ones because those ones will wear out faster and You could literally have a situation Specifically with these boards. We're on that eboard and on the PA board You have caps that are degrading at five times the rate of 90% of the caps so the bad five or six caps on those two boards degrade way faster than 90% of the caps they don't degrade and they will last over a hundred thousand hours. Miss likely that's it for today folks Have a good one. I'll see you next time