 What's up guys, I'm let's fly RC and today we are going to build my new frame the outlaw each country has their own rules about Drones, but almost every country has this threshold of 250 grams under which certain rules don't apply to the drone You can basically get away with a lot more with a lightweight drone So of course that means you could just fly micro drones, but here at rotor riot We like to fly five inch freestyle drones So I wanted to design a frame that was light enough to fly under the radar But still give you that five inch freestyle experience now This frame can be set up in multiple different ways using different batteries different prop configurations and Even carry an action camera in certain configurations and still be under 250 grams first though Unfortunately, we don't have any extra parts laying around so we're gonna have to pull this guy apart and put it back together So your outlaw frame is gonna come with a three millimeter bottom plate a two millimeter top plate screws for the stack and Standoffs and a couple of screws to mount the standoffs You'll also need four motors and we have two different KV variants depending on whether you want to go with a 4s battery or a 6s battery We're gonna have the 1700 KV motor for the 6s or the 3000 KV motor for the 4s We are using the seal racing toothpick flight controller ESC all-in-one combo for this build to save as much weight as possible You're in an XT30 lead with just the right length of wire everything in this build makes a huge difference in weight Down to the props down to the amount of wire length and down to the amount of solder you put on Every single gram counts in this build because I put it as close to 250 grams as possible Any little thing that you do on this build might put it over 250 grams You might have to take something off down to the amount of tape that you put on the arms to hold the wires down So we're gonna go over everything and try to do the best we can to keep it as close to 250 grams as possible This frame uses the shark bite digital HD system so that we can have a nice Beautiful HD video signal on a very very lightweight frame one of the greatest things about the shark bite system is that it's insanely lightweight So this is actually a shark bite that I've already Mounted an axi antenna on and put it through the 3d printed mount You want to lose you want to use a little bit of goop right here on the connection That's why I haven't taken it off because I don't want to have to redo that glue The little goop right here keeps this from popping off when you're flying around and crashing into stuff the shark bite system also comes with a run cam camera and I've already mounted up the 3d printed mounts in a in that configuration You're gonna want to do that as well ahead of time I have multiple different 3d print mounts for different action cameras as well I'll have one for the insta 360 go one for the insta 360 go to and for the SMO camera from beta FPV So depending on which battery configuration you go with I have three different battery options that I Tried with this system. I've run the 450 milliamp hour 4s battery by tattoo And this 450 milliamp battery by tattoo is perfect for an action camera It allows you just enough power to have a nice three or four minute flight with an action camera like we would in a regular FPV flight of our typical five inch drones the 650 works with some configurations that are a little bit too heavy For example, if you built it just a little bit too heavy You can use a 650 milliamp hour battery instead of the 850 that I used for the non Action camera build and that'll make up a couple of grams if you need it The shark bite system comes with a capacitor and you can either use this capacitor or not depending on whether you need to save a Grammar to it's a good idea to use a capacitor I totally recommend using the capacitor because shark bite recommends it for voltage spikes And it'll keep you from accidentally damaging your VTX if you get a really hard voltage spike We're gonna be using the RxSR receiver from FR sky in this build You can also use a spectrum receiver as long as it fits into the same size and weight Configuration in order to use crossfire You'll probably have to use their lighter weight antenna on this build because the immortal T is gonna be a little bit too heavy for this build on this bill We're gonna be using the 3000 kV variant of the T motor 2004 motor and that's going to give us the right kV for a 4s setup So there's two different prop configurations I used in this build There's the Gemfan 5130 tri-blade and the Gemfan 5126 Bi-blade prop the bi-blade props actually weigh about a gram less than the Tri-blades so if you need to save a couple grams you can sometimes go with a bi-blade Some people like the flight characteristics of a bi-blade better Some people like the flight characteristics with tri-blade better these things were Insanely fast and if you need to tame it down a little bit maybe going down to a bi-blade It'll give you more of that regular five inch feel so the tools you need for this build are the 1.5 millimeter hex driver pair of wire cutters some solder soldering iron maybe some tweezers a little bit of heat shrink some zip ties and a Few miscellaneous screws that should come with the kit all right to begin this build We're going to go ahead and install the gummies into this frame because it's a unibody frame I wanted to make sure we didn't get any bad vibrations into the flight controller So I went ahead and designed it with holes in the frame that are perfectly designed to allow these gummies to go through And that will help to isolate the flight controller a little bit more from the frame vibrations Getting these little guys in is a little bit of a challenge, but it's not that bad Just kind of push them through the hole be careful not to tear them I just kind of use the 1.5 millimeter driver to push it through from the back side and that helps just be careful Not to tear it when you're doing it be very gentle so you don't tear the gummy on the way through Okay, so after you have your gummies installed you can start to install the stack screws These are M2 stack screws that are metal and you just kind of slide them through the gummy Just like that so the receiver is actually going to be going underneath the flight controller So we're going to want to put that on next this little rectangular section right here is Where the receiver is going to be mounted and so this will be the front of the frame and this will be the back of the frame So we're going to take a little tiny piece of double-sided tape The smallest piece of double-sided tape that'll actually hold it down to save weight And we're going to mount this rxsr receiver right here So the wires will go underneath the bottom of the flight controller. Let's take a little tiny piece of tape There we go, we'll just stick this guy down right about there Pull these wires forward here because they're going to go under the bottom of the flight control board All right now that we've got our receiver mounted we can put our flight control board in place We're going to place it with the usb port facing backwards It's really really tight You're going to have to have a really thin usb port if you're going to try to squeeze that in after the fact If you're using the xsr receiver from frsky We're going to be using these three pads here that are soldered for our power ground and signal lead All right, so this goes channel one five volt ground So we'll go ahead and hook our yellow lead over here and then we're going to have five volts in the middle and ground over there So you want to go ahead and tend the wires and tend the pads get a nice shiny solder joint when you're done All right, so i'm just inspecting my solder joints to make sure that nothing's touching All these electronics are very small So you want to make sure that you don't have any solder bridges jumping any of these little tiny components together Or the thing won't work when you're finished So now that that's done i'm just going to go ahead and tuck these wires up under the flight control board So that nothing is sticking out and it's nice and clean There we go. So the next step in this build is to go ahead and install the motors Let's go ahead and put one motor on each arm using the provided screws that come with the motors So the shorter screws that come with the motor should be a five millimeter m2 screw Just in case production changes over time Trying to let you know what these are And the m6 screw is what you're going to be using for the prop When you're screwing these in make sure that these screws don't come too far through the motor and touch the windings The front of the motor is more vulnerable than the back of the motor because of these wires that are coming out here They do pass right over the screw holes And if you're not careful you can damage these wires here these screws here should be the perfect length to where I don't have to worry about it And I can tell on the back here because I don't see the screw Popping through the back of the motor here, which means that the screw is not going to make contact with any of the wires So what you want to do is go ahead and just get these screws in kind of loose Once you have all four screws in then you can torque them down But don't go too crazy when the screws are loose the motors able to be moved around a little bit It'll keep you from accidentally cross threading these screws since they're so small It's really easy to cross thread them and it's really easy to over tighten them Just go ahead and tighten them down snug and repeat that process for the other three motors All right So the next step in this process is we want to go ahead and cut these motor wires to length These motors on this particular build are already cut to length because I just took it apart But when you're building this you're going to need to cut these motor wires yourself And I'm probably going to trim a little bit of fat off of this build as well in the process because These are just a little bit too long and I can trim a little bit of fat off of there a little bit of weight Before I do that I'm going to go ahead and put some electrical tape on the wires to keep them from moving around and keep everything clean You can either go crazy on the electrical tape like I did in our episode So that we didn't end up chopping the wires up with the props or you can be very very minimalist and Save as much weight as possible like I'm going to do here so I'm actually laying the tape out on the table and I'm going to end up slicing the tape into smaller pieces so that I can conserve as much weight as possible I'm going to cut six total strips so that I have two left over for the antenna right here on the receiver We're going to put two extra pieces of tape right here in here for the antenna We're going to wait until later to do that. All right So the next thing you want to do is just line your motor wires up Leaving a tiny bit of slack on each one these right here. These ones right here are pretty much the perfect length Some of the other ones that I cut are just a little bit long And I'm going to trim a little bit of fat off of those guys as I'm putting it back together here You want to cut your wires to length? This wire is going to be about Four millimeters longer than this wire this wire is going to be about four millimeters longer than that wire Once you get your wires cut and trimmed we'll go ahead and tin them up and solder them onto the flight control board ESC Combo everything board. It's going to kind of push these wires down In place make it look clean and we'll move on to the next ones. So repeat this process for the other three motors Trimming off as much fat as possible But make sure you leave a little bit of slack just in case you have to go back and do some repairs in the future Make sure to clean your solder tip as often as possible keeps your solder Looking pretty and shiny and fresh If you have any problems like this where the solder pops up and creates a little peak Just go ahead and desolder it and retain both surfaces with fresh solder And you'll get a much better result. Look at that. That's beautiful Now this particular flight control board ended up in the water in our episode of The outlaw. So if there's anything that looks a little bit out of place here It's probably not seal racing's fault. So keep that in mind I'm not sure if that's glue holding that capacitor down right there or if that's Corrosion for being in the water pretty much everything was still working after this thing dried Out. So that's a pretty good testimony to this setup. I'm not going to push these motor wires over into this corner yet Because I still need to solder up my power and ground over here. So we're just going to kind of leave these guys Set aside like that in the meantime So at this stage now, I think we're ready to go ahead and wire up our power and ground wires Now I've cut these to about an inch and a half length. I've got my positive lead Just a little bit longer about four millimeters longer than my negative lead So that way when I do mount it up and I wrap it through The strap it ends up being in the right orientation. Whenever you solder these onto the xt 30 connector Round means ground. That's a little rhyme that I remember to help me remember which one goes on which side So the square lead is where your positive wire goes and the round side is where your negative lead goes You should probably use some heat shrink too, but to save weight You know, I didn't do it. It's it's fine You got to look really closely because it's really small and hard to see Tiny negative right there. That's almost microscopic. You got to have these really cool glasses to see it But that's where the negative goes on the right and the positive goes on my left So we're going to go ahead and put our positive and negative leads on the board here In this orientation here since this is going to have multiple connections I'm going to go ahead and put it just a little bit more solder on the top to create like a ball That's going to help me to put the capacitor And any other parts that might need to have positive and negative connected to them I think I'm going to have three positives and three negatives on this particular board So I'm just going to create a little bit of extra solder On the top So it'll give me something to attach to later. So now that I've got the power leads in place. I'm going to go ahead and slide these remaining Motor wires over so that everything looks clean and tight and tidy and pretty and beautiful All right, so this capacitor just barely fits in the frame So if you're going to put this on you have to be mindful of the fact that it could hit the prop If you're not careful how you're installing the capacitor. Like I said, this is a step that I recommend I've only had a problem with these vtx's shorting out on much bigger builds uh like Full-sized five inch quads, but Because I've had a couple of them go bad because we didn't put this capacitor on I'm going to go ahead and put the capacitor on this build just in case so that way I'm being ultra protective of it So I'm going to slide this capacitor Up under the wires so that they're very very close to their mounting point Because I need this to be as close to the arm as possible The white stripe over here is the negative side of the capacitor You need to make sure that's on the right side when you're putting it on So now I'm going to use my tools here to get everything in place And just solder that guy on and then I'll work on the positive section in a minute All right Now I'm going to bend this capacitor a little bit without breaking it get that positively where I want it to be Be mindful of the gummy so that you don't end up restricting your Ability to put another gummy on top of that gummy because we're going to end up putting another gummy on top of that one And make sure you're not bridging anything else together at the same time There we go. That was fun. All right, so I'm going to double check all my connections and make sure that everything Is tight and clean and nothing is bridging out and I'm going to push this capacitor down As far as I can get it to go without breaking off the wires these wires are fragile So you got to be a little bit careful with them and I just kind of route the power lead this direction And I might even put a zip tie or a piece of tape on this to hold it down in place once the bill is complete So that way it doesn't end up coming up and getting hit by the prop So the next step we're going to go ahead and put some zip ties on the arms to allow us to get these wires from the receiver Mounted in place so that they don't get chopped up by the props I'm going to go ahead and put them up through this hole here actually I'm going to go down through the hole because I want the zip tie to exit on the bottom and We're going to go ahead and also secure the wires in place at the same time while we're doing this If you put the zip tie on in this orientation And you cinch it down Just right it'll actually come out underneath the frame rather than on top of the frame Kind of point it down a little bit towards the ground It'll help to keep it out of the props and then we're going to run this wire up under These other wires and we're going to heat shrink it to that zip tie You can use the other zip tie to push it under if you need to and that'll help you get it underneath the wires This is actually a method that I've seen joshua barbell do many many times and I've been doing it for a long time as well And it's been my favorite method of keeping the receiver wires from getting chopped up by the props So I'll just go ahead and put that there cut the zip tie to the right length It's a little bit longer than your receiver wire and slide a piece of heat shrink over and Heat shrink it down and repeat that process on the other side All right. And so with our last two pieces of tape here We're going to go ahead and wrap them around the receiver wires here just to keep those out of the way And keep them out of the props Careful of that to go over your holes there or you won't have any way to mount your standoffs in the future Okay, so the next step we're going to go ahead and wire up the vtx or the shark bite digital fpv system Then the shark bite digital fpv system has four wires that need to be connected So we're going to need a ground power tx and rx Okay, so we're going to use these four pads for our Wires on our flight controller. We're going to have ground tx 6 rx 6 and positive We're going to connect to those four points with our four wires And then we'll connect them up to the shark bite system afterwards So I want to go ahead and solder these up with the wires facing inward And the hardest one to reach is going to be the tx pads So we're going to go ahead and wire up the green wire to the tx pad first So I'll get you some nice short pieces of wire here about that length And we'll go ahead and tin it up and attach it to the flight control board We're going to go ahead and put our blue onto the rx pad There we go and our ground on the ground pad Pause is a little bit more tricky because you have to try to get it on top of that ball that we created earlier There we go Now we've got our four wires on the flight control board. We're going to go and solder them on to the vtx We're going to tin these four pads right here. We've got ground voltage rx and tx We're going to put this in order from black red green and blue because blacks are ground Reds are voltage green is our rx and blue is our tx This one's real fun because right next to that connector be careful on this last one So you don't melt that connector not that we're using it for anything, but it doesn't always smell so good Here we go This is going to be positioned on the frame with the camera connector facing forward and the antenna facing backwards But before we put this down, we're going to need to put some gummies in between To space it up from the flight control board We're also going to want to put our camera cable on and our antenna wire Because if you put the camera cable on here, you can actually slide a zip tie up through the frame here And grab on to the camera cable so that it never comes disconnected from the vtx So if you put this on there and squeeze it down with your thumb just kind of get it lined up As best as you can these connectors are very very Sensitive but you get it you can get it lined up just right and you'll hear it click in place When you have it right just don't push down too hard and break the connections You'll feel it if you get it right and then once you have that in place You can put a little tiny zip tie up through these holes if you want to lock it down in place I'm not going to put them on this particular bill just to save some weight But if you wanted to you can run a zip tie right up through that hole there Bring it down here and cinch it in place and it'll keep this from moving out of place We didn't have this camera connector come off. So I'm not too worried about it But in some situations you might do a little more crashing It might be a good idea to go ahead and have that zip tie in place For now, I'm going to go ahead and put the spacer gummies in between the flight controller And the vtx There we go So one set of gummies should be perfect To keep all the parts from touching the flight control board because what you want What you want to try to avoid is having anything touching from the vtx to the flight control board that might cause any vibrations One set of gummies is the perfect distance to give me about two millimeters between the plastic connector back here and The usb port All right, so the next step I'm going to go ahead and put these four nylon nuts in place to hold our vtx and keep it from moving around And then after that we'll go ahead and put our standoffs on go ahead and use my 1.5 millimeter hex to go ahead and tighten these down Don't go too crazy. They don't need to be super tight But just tighten up to where they're not going to come loose If you tighten them too tight, you'll be pulling the two boards too close together and then they'll end up touching Like we're trying to avoid just about like that Now we're going to go ahead and put our four standoffs in place With the four screws provided with the frame We've got four holes in the frame to mount our standoffs one two three four All right. Now once we have a rear standoffs in place We should be able to just slide our antenna 3d print right over top of the back standoffs And they're locked in place. Make sure to secure your ufl connector with a little bit of shugu or I don't know if I'd recommend hot glue hot glue might damage the electronics on the board But shugu works really good for this it locks it in place Some people use liquid electrical tape if you can't find shugu But I prefer the shugu just because it's a little bit more solid when it's dry Keeps that connector from popping off when you're flying around because you don't want to damage your vtx by not having an antenna connected to it All right, and since we're on this step. We might as well go ahead and put our camera in place Now your 3d prints are not going to be molded into this shape yet They're just going to be flat pieces of tpu You're going to have to kind of pinch them and bend them into this shape And then once you have them bent like that and your camera at Appropriate angle you can just slide them over top of the standoffs just like this Slide the camera down And it'll just kind of pop into place But before you push it too far down make sure you have your camera connector onto the back of the camera Just like this And snap it in place Now I also recommend putting some of this shugu on the back of the camera as well because the one major problem That we've had with these is that these camera cables do come off really easily So if you put a little bit more of that shugu on top of the camera Uh, you'll keep that camera cable from popping off and crashes and just slide it down like that and it fits beautifully Like a glove So the smo camera comes with this cable And if you want to be able to start and stop recording with a switch on your transmitter you can actually wire this up to power ground and a UART connector with this yellow lead and then whenever you flip a switch on your transmitter It'll actually start recording by the flip of a switch. It's really cool I soldered this up to one of the pads and the flight controller there That we're not going to use it in this build just because we're trying to give you a quick rundown on how to do the build Uh, but if you want to go ahead and wire that up you can hook up positive and negative This yellow wire is going to go on the board right here And this white connector right here will just plug right into the side of the camera and Give you power for the camera and the ability to control the start and stop of the recording If we're done with this build, you're just a couple grams off and you want to run an action camera The insta 360 go is just a few grams lighter than the smo camera Maybe you can make up a couple grams there by using a different action camera so the last part of this build is to put on the top plate And this top plate is different than what the final revision is going to be The final top plate should have two holes in the top right here And that's going to allow you to put a zip tie through the top plate To mount on the 3d printed mounts that I have created for different action camera setups I will have a 3d printed mount for the smo camera I'll also have one for the insta 360 go the old and new insta 360 go We'll have both insta 360 mounts available in the rotor right store if you want to pick those up We'll put these four screws in the top plate, and I'm just putting these screws in loosely I'll tighten them when I'm done. It helps me to line everything up properly Sometimes we need to torque one down. It doesn't want to line up to the rest of them I'll put a final torque on all four of these Don't go crazy. You don't have to make it too tight And the last little bit is to put on a little tiny battery pad and a battery strap And like I said before down to the battery strap every gram matters in this build Put a little tiny piece of battery pad down to hold our battery keep it from sliding around And our very lightweight battery strap We got to install our props and this build's ready to go So you can choose from two different kinds of props as I was saying before You can use either the bi-blade props Or the tri-blade props Depending on what your desires are for this machine And whether you want it to go crazy or whether you want it to fly a long range You can do a lot of different things with this quad and have a great time And so these four props weigh Approximately 13 grams all together as a whole And the bi-blade props only weigh 10 grams So you can save yourself an extra two grams if you need them just by running bi-blades over tri-blades So these props have adapters you have to put these adapters in first if you're going to use The m2 screws to mount them and they're kind of a pan the butt to deal with Each motor needs two screws per prop. These are six millimeter m2s I just kind of put the screw in there and turn the motor around until I find the hole and it makes it easy We're going to go ahead and put the battery on so we can get the weight All right, so with no action camera and a medium-sized battery. We are at 227 We have plenty of grams to spare with a medium-sized battery with a larger battery It'll be right at 250 grams maybe a couple grams over or a couple grams under depending on how you build it I've built them a bunch of different times and sometimes i'm one or two grams over sometimes i'm one or two grams under Like I said, it's depending on how how you build it and how stringent you are with wire length and the amount of solder you're using The heaviness of your battery strap all those things come into play when you're talking about how much weight this thing is But anyway with a 650 milliamp hour 4 s you should get a six minute flight time on this quad With an 850 milliamp battery. We were getting seven and eight minute flight times And with a 450 milliamp hour battery with a action camera attached We were still getting three to four minute flight times out of this quad So it's really good really efficient and you can have a lot of fun with it I hope you guys really enjoy this build. Thank you for watching and we'll see you guys next time