 On to the top or the top rail, I guess you would call it. The top is going to be the workbench top So this is the top of the saw horses. It's a Very very simple You're going to have four boards like this that are four and a quarter by 42 inches long You're not going to touch them at all. Those are going to go on the outside and Then you're going to have four boards that are going to have a profile cut in them merely a Rectangle out of one end of each of them. That's four and a quarter wide and two and two and a quarter deep and Then There's going to be a notch that's again a rectangle, but it's four and a quarter in from the end and Then four to quarter wide and two and a quarter deep. So really really simple. That's the eight or six boards, right? Four boards right here that I'm going to work on now Different ways to cut that profile out of there. I'm about ready to mark them up I've got my double square here set at four and a quarter since that's a common Item in this build used many times so you can you can use them to go across here, but When I don't have the boards In any kind of a clamp they tend to move on me when I do that So I put my lead right on the four and a quarter line. I move my square up here And there she is so I have to decide I think I'll make This side the One where I take out the rectangle right here and then this side. I will just Go in four and a quarter And then I'm going to end up going in four and a quarter a second time I thought I'd take a second and tell you about a little device you might want to add to your arsenal It's a little incra Measuring device this one three inches long. I've got another one six inches long They have a million little holes in them that are designed for five millimeter lead So I've got the click gear 1000 Mechanical pencils that are my basically the only pencil I normally use I've got a five millimeter and a nine millimeter The nine millimeter won't break at all when I'm marking stuff at all The five millimeter lead breaks very very easily But that's what's required to get into these little bitty holes So this is a good application where I want to pull a line across here. That's two and a quarter inches Across this entire board. So I'll get a little bit of lead exposed but not too much Find my two and a quarter Put that five millimeter into that little slot nothing else No thicker one will work a little problematic when you got my eyes like I've got and then drag that across the edge And you get a very precise mark Now when I've got four of them here, which one am I supposed to cut out? So while I'm just marked it so I don't get confused later Always mark what's going to be the waste area So this is going to be my waste area To further avoid any confusion. I always have an eraser in my work vest or my apron And I get rid of any extraneous lines kind of like you do and sketch them So here's my board marked up For this these are four of them like this on the inside I'm going to have a cut out here. That's four and a half inches in four and a half inches long And two and a quarter inches tall if you will And then on this other end I'm going to have one that's just four and a quarter inches in and two and a quarter inches tall And when those go on the inside of the other boards and these are cut out There's two of them on the inside two on the two regular boards on the outside That will form or build my board In this situation, I Definitely want my cutouts to line up with each other At least on each pair of these So a good idea when you want things to line up is to gang cut them meaning put them together Get them nice and secure And then cut them all at once If you've got the right devices for that And so I want to hold these together and Simple to do I put I wrap some Painters tape around that end And then I'm going to wrap move this off my workbench here And get it kind of nice and tightly held together Make sure I'm nice and flush on the ends. Nothing has moved on me and Get that kind of ganged up Now that can still move in there. You got to be a little bit careful So if I cut this on one device now This should all stay Nice together and my cuts will be consistent even if they're off Assuming I can get a 90 degrees here even if they're off. They're at least going to be consistent And that's uh often that's the key So that's a little tip for gang cutting I'm going to use my table saw to cut these Kind of like cutting a dado I've marked off On the ganged up set of these Two of these are going to go in the top of one of the saw horses And two of these are going to go on the top of the other one And these are the two internal pieces And so this rectangular area here When you put some boards on the outside of it is going to form the mortise for the leg And so I've marked it off here and I've marked it off here You'll see that when that all goes together with just your miter fence From um That came with your table saw I need a nice tall um Backer board here to hold my Work in front of so I can push it I don't want to use a cross cut sled Because I I don't normally run my well, this is not all going to be all that high So my blade is going to be two and three quarters inches high here If I put a cross cut sled down there and that's going to raise my work piece and so that'll um Anyway Your capacity of your table saw may not accommodate using a cross cut sled And so that's you know a miter gauge here with a nice strong I'm using a three-quarter inch baltic birch from this same project I have some left over as the backer board here I do need to be very sensitive and very careful to use the miter gauge the way you're supposed to use it And that's to hold your work piece and use this handle because that blade is going to go through this backer board Uh, and the backer board hopefully Will protect against some tear out So I had to stop there and mark off on this side I had this side marked off, but I couldn't slide it down and have all this Trump here. I wanted it to be this way. So I marked on this side so I could Turn it over Make sure I'm cutting my mortise same side as this All right I find it helpful when you're sliding stuff across your table to uh Use the paraffin wax makes everything slide easier Slide that Slide the bottom of my work piece and uh, finally Let me re-wax the bottom of the sacrificial fence on the miter gauge All right, everything's nice and slippery, but I didn't talk about earlier and uh, I realized most people or a lot of people wouldn't have both, but this is a flat tipped blade It's called a rip blade and it's used for You know when you need to rip hardwood But the advantage of it is it has a flat tip on it if you use your 80 teeth plywood Blade it's gonna you're gonna have to just do a little bit of extra trimming When you get done or if you use the combination saw stump combination blade You'll have to trim off a little fuzz at the bottom of your deal. I change this blade Just because it'll give me uh It'll give me a clean cut Now I set the height to match my line here Uh, this is a mortise. So I'm going to have a tenon go up into here, obviously And if if I undercut this then my tenon won't be able to close up the gap And it's going to be problematic to come in here And you know, she's a lot of bunch of stuff So if anything, I'd rather slightly over cut this that'll leave some room For the glue and a little spacing and that I can make sure I'm going to close up nicely You know, even if I don't reach the bottom with my tenon I have enough glue surface That everything will hold nicely anyway, but I think it's going to be just about perfect Uh All right, so always mark your waist area so you don't cut the wrong side of this line It'd be so easy to put this in here and cut the wrong side In a moment of Not thinking. All right, here we go again You want to have just the right amount of glue so everything does stay together You do want to have a lot of clamping Uh, you would like to get some squeeze out. Maybe I've got a little bit too much here Uh, but that's not the point. The point is How do you get rid of it? Do you now wipe this off? We could do nothing more than wipe it all over the workpiece and there's no way Unless you get everything really really wet that you're going to get that wiped off, uh, very well Uh, do you wait here and let it set up and then take it off with a putty knife or Shave it off with a plane Do you I don't know Do you use some other method like I did a recent live video where I was trying a method of using paraffin wax On all of the edges before I did the glue up and the squeeze out and the idea was that the paraffin wax Uh, the only problem with the paraffin wax method was It's too much. I almost have to clamp it up in order to Wax it because I don't want to get wax on the face I want the face to get glue on it so it pulls together Uh wiping it again I long since decided and found out particularly with plywood like I'm using here that that's the no go All it does is spread it and then I can't get it off other than cutting running it through the table saw or the thickness planer again so, uh One guy that I respect the heck out of who's got a lot of experience Made a comment on one of my videos and uh, I made note of it at the time and I actually have done it some since then and he said Once you use sawdust you'll never go back And that's next level carpentry matt jackson out of uh, I think south dakota somewhere Very very great channel by the way When he does a video, it's never a 10 minute video. It's usually a hour 50 minutes or an hour and the reason is because he's showing you Lots and lots of tips along the way. So if you want to learn Particularly if you're a contractor, he's got to be a superior contractor So, uh, make sure you binge watch his channel. All right, so as far as I'm concerned, I think he's right I just did another uh, glue up of one of these And uh, use the sawdust approach I haven't done the other side yet with clamps But I'm going to go ahead while I'm on this side and I've got out of my, uh Probably could use a coarser, uh, sawdust But out of my, uh, dust collection system, I just, the barrel, I just grabbed uh, and decided that I would keep a barrel of sawdust available At all times in the corner of my shop somewhere Just for this purpose So I'm going to give that a go I don't want to pick up a lot of splinters So I'm going to put on a pair of these, uh, cheap gloves and, uh When you, when you rub it Before you get it set up too much, you can almost feel it ball up underneath the sawdust Kind of like rolling up and and I think it's, uh I've had some really good result with this method and I believe I'm just going to start going with it And not try to use any other method in the future So Matt Jackson I, uh Maybe I'll stop and show the cleanup when I'm done But Matt, I just want to say thanks for the, uh advice. I'm sure a lot of Professionals have known this forever probably back to the beginning of woodworking back in the I don't know before Christ, so So Anyway, I'm going to stop here and maybe I'll show you the result when I'm done