Mountaineers: Crevasse Rescue Using a Z-Pulley System (3-Person Team)





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Published on Apr 7, 2011

Demonstration of a climber extrication from a crevasse using a 3:1 z-pulley system (3-person rope team). Shot by http://instagram.com/lukeallenhumphrey.

-"What about 6:1, 9:1 + 2-person rope teams? What if the middle person falls in". Good topics, out of scope for this particular video.
-"End climbers lack extra coils". Reason: Assumption here is that two rope teams climb together and second rope team would aid in the rescue. Without a second team and as a general best practice, however, end climbers should make extra rope available on their ends.
-"Anchors aren't equalized". More: Yes the second anchor is only serving as a backup if the first anchor fails. Putting in the initial quick anchor here allows weight to be taken off the self-arresting climber (assumption here is that a guarded, vertically placed axe is more secure than a single person in self arrest). Because the second anchor here is a solid deadman and the first is just a quick anchor (vertical ice axe) ideally you'd want to tie a load releasing hitch for the first anchor, then release load onto the second, more solid deadman anchor. Or the third person should setup an equalized system while the second person holds the fall via self-arrest. Both are more time consuming, but more secure (trade-offs need to be made based on the situation).
-"There are some loading issues". Because of the lack of anchor equalization, tri or x-loading is unlikely (see 7:47 for how loading plays out). That said the third person setting up an equalized system could allow one to avoid this and clip directly into a power point on the anchors.
-"Carabiner on carabiner is bad". Outstanding topic - have yet to hear a convincing argument on why metal on metal is bad here.
-"Climbers should haul with waist/body vs. hands". Agree this is more efficient if you can't get enough pull/friction using hands.
-"Wire gates vs. lockers - why?" I think the idea here is that lockers can freeze in certain conditions. A locker when locked is going to be more secure than single wire gate biner, however.
-"This takes place in a parking lot - I think roping up in this setting is overkill". Agree to disagree.
-What else? Keep the comments coming.

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