 Hey guys, welcome to Rotorite. I'm Gruz FPV and today I'm going to show you how I PID tune the Rotorite drones. Here at Rotorite we actually sell pre-built drones that we tune here in-house. Some people actually want to get into the tune process themselves so what I'm going to do today is walk you through my process on how I set up the Rotorite drones. So if you've watched any of our build videos we typically show you how to configure everything in Betaflight but we usually skip past fine tuning things like PIDs and filters because it's pretty complicated. But in this video that's exactly what I'm going to dig into. We're going to assume that you've already got your drone completely set up, all of your UARTs are set correctly, your motor directions are correct, and your switches are assigned. Today I'm actually going to dive into the ESC settings, some filter settings, and PID tuning using black buttons. Since we just moved to the new Betaflight 4.3 I'm having to start fresh on all of our builds so that they're on the latest and greatest stuff. The first things we're going to want to do is we're going to want to go into the ESC settings and configure those because there's a few tweaks we can make to kind of dial in our ESC settings. And to do that you're going to need the Beal Helly 32 configurator. One thing I've noticed is you can kind of run into some issues if you have both Betaflight and Beal Helly 32 open at the same time. If you've got your USB plugged in, you've got your battery plugged in ready to go, I'm going to go ahead and close out Betaflight and only have Beal Helly 32 open. I'm going to plug in my battery because we need power to the ESC in order for this to connect and I'm just going to read the setup here. All right, see it says that we have found multiple ESC configuration changing these ESC settings. I'm only going to be changing three and what I'm using today are Chris Rosser's recommended settings. There'll be a link in the description below if you want to get more in depth with how he changes these settings and the reasons behind. So the first thing I'm going to be changing is the ramp up power. You ideally want the ramp up power to be as high as it can be so that you can access the full mechanical power of your motor. Stock settings on ramp up power should be fine but in Chris Rosser's video he found that pretty much anything over 30% added no benefit to the flight performance and the higher you go with your ramp up power, the higher chances you run of desyncs and you know issues with motor heat things like that. So on all of the builds that I have here at Rotor Riot I just set it to 30% and move on. The next thing we're going to change is going to be the motor timing. Faster spinning motors like these 5 inch 2306 2450 kV motors they benefit from a higher motor timing. 23 degrees it's the standard for most 5 inch builds usually slower spinning motors on the other hand. 7 inch props 10 inch props those typically benefit from a lower motor timing so somewhere around 16 16 degrees somewhere there. But for this 5 inch build we're just going to set it at 23 degrees and move on to the PWM frequency. It's set at 24 kilohertz on both the low and high frequency. The lower that number is the more braking power and torque you're going to have with your motors but you let in more electrical noise by lowering your PWM frequency. The higher the number is it will smooth that out but you lose prop wash performance. The low frequency the builds that we have here I found that leaving that at 24 kilohertz uh is kind of the sweet spot. It doesn't allow for too much noise to come through the motors but you still have plenty of torque for prop wash performance. PWM frequency high um since we have the rpm filter enabled on beta flight we're going to take this slider and move it all the way up to by rpm and what that does is basically measures the rpm of your motor and sets the frequency based on that. So now that you've got everything set up all you're going to need to do is hit right setup here at the bottom and now we are done with BLHeli 32. We can disconnect you'll hear the motors beep letting you know that everything is disconnected just like that we can remove the battery. So now that we've set up everything in BLHeli we're going to jump over to beta flight. So we're plugged into the USB first thing we're going to jump into is the presets tab. Now with beta flight 4.3 the presets have just made it so easy. So we're going to be using a filter preset for the BMI 270 gyro that this quad uses the MPU 6000 gyro that we all you know know and love they just can't get anymore. So everyone has moved over to this BMI 270 so pretty much for the foreseeable future all flight controllers are going to be using this as far as I know or at least the ones that we carry at rotor riot will have this gyro on this gyro compared to the MPU 6000 is a little bit different because the low pass filter that is built into the gyro I believe is at a higher frequency. So there's some settings that this preset has that just kind of makes everything simple for you. So all I'm going to do I'm going to type in BMI 270. If you look here we've got dust kings BMI 270 filter settings there's also an option over here for dual BMI 270 this flight controller that we're using the T motor F7 HD only has a single gyro we're going to select that and you see here that we have some options you've got a BMI 270 gyro with clean build and I'm not using the RPM filters we've got the build with RPM filters at D shot 300 and then at D shot 600 we've set up this quad with D shot 300 so we're going to be using the second option here same thing you just pick that throws up a warning preset changes PID loop rate to 3.2k I think by default this flight controller will not go any higher than 3.2k so we don't have anything to worry about but uh yeah this is just warning you hey don't don't try to take it any higher than what we have it set at come down hit save and reboot and now we have the correct PID filters if you wanted to get more in depth with actually tuning the filters I highly recommend checking out UAV text videos and Chris Rosser's videos but with Betaflight 4.3 and the presets that I've got here I really hardly have to mess with the filters tab and I end up spending a lot more time dialing in my PID gains the you know the relationship between P and D and P and I and getting the gains as high as I possibly can without having any you know issues there's this YouTube channel called PID Toolbox and he's designed a software that makes the PID tuning process very simple and you can pretty much do it anywhere I'm actually going to be tuning this quad today with some very simple line of sight test hovers indoors right here in the in the studio upstairs there's links in the description uh to PID Toolbox's YouTube channel and uh how to set up this software before we do anything in that software we need to make some adjustments to the PID settings so what we're going to do is we're going to go back to the PID profile settings and you're going to want to enable expert mode up here at the top and once you've enabled expert mode you'll see here that it's unlocked all of these new sliders right off the rip what I'm going to do is I'm going to remove our feed forward gains because you don't want the messing with the relationship between your D and P gain I'm also going to remove all of the dynamic dampening bring that down to zero so I'm only worrying about the you know stock static D gain and then I'm also going to remove all of the eye gains typically on a standard five inch build the relationship between D and P at one is probably going to be fine but I'm actually going to bring it all the way down to six when we start because what we're going to do is we're going to be doing just quick little flights with our drone we're just going to go up for 10 15 seconds move it around so that you can gather some information uh in the black box log and we can bring it over to this PID toolbox software so now that I've made those adjustments to the sliders I'm going to come down on them I'm going to hit save dynamic idle my understanding is what it does helps your craft at you know low rpm like smooth forward flight things like that helps bobbles and it will dynamically change your idle based on the rpm of your motors things like that to give you the best possible performance the way that you're going to want to set that up is kind of based on the pitch of your props and the size and there's kind of an equation that you use so for this craft we're going to be using a very low pitch prop it's the j37 which is a 4.9 inch not exactly what sure what the pitch is but it's very low it's like a three-point something very low pitch prop in the equation that you would use to figure out your dynamic idle is you would take the number 100 and divide that by the size of your prop so this is a five inch prop 100 divided by five gives us the number 20 so that's what you would set the dynamic aisle to if you're using a more aggressive pitch prop you would maybe do 150 divided by the size of your prop typically that range is going to be anywhere from 20 to 40 on your dynamic idle the lower your dynamic idle is the more inverted hang time you'll get but you run the risk of more low throttle instability with the higher you run the dynamic idle you'll have less inverted hang time but a more stable and locked in quad at low throttle i kind of like dynamic idle set a little bit higher than 20 so i usually run 25 with this tuning process i've noticed that it is probably best to do everything outdoors just because you add the external forces you've got wind blowing you've got you know the humidity in the air things like that really depends on your personal environment though because let's say you live in a busy city it might just be more convenient to hey in your living room or basement wherever do this tuning method and actually the name of this tuning method is called the basement tuning method so pretty much anywhere you are you could get your quad tuned and what i'm doing here today too is not the the method that's going to dial it into the absolute you know the tightest possible tune ever this is just going to get you in a really good spot to get a nice smooth flying quad that isn't going to have crazy prop wash or jitters things like that or at least i'm not uh going to want to tune our customers quads to the absolute t because there are a lot of variables i don't know where in the world this is getting sent it could be somewhere um really high altitude that affects tune things like that so i like to tune my quad so that if i were to crash mess up some props i could easily fly back to me without burning up a motor or frying an ec things like that but you'll still get a lot better performance than the stock settings that beta flight gives you after i've saved those settings we're gonna want to change our rate settings since i'm only doing line of sight test you do not want to have crazy 1000 degree rates so what i do using the actual rates here is i go all the way down to 250 degrees per second roll pitch and yaw and another thing that i do is i make them linear and to do that you just take the center sensitivity and you crank it up until you see this line here um on the rates preview straighten out and i believe that is also 250 and then i don't add any additional expo so very straight linear rates maxed out at 250 degrees and the reason i'm doing that is uh since we are flying this line of sight i i'm going to be doing a lot of crazy stick movements back and forth and if i'm at 1000 degrees per second i yeah there's no way i'm going to be able to control this thing so slow it down a little bit that way i can yank the sticks around no problem and i know that i can still control the quad last thing we're going to need to set up are the black box settings only thing you're going to need to adjust or just make sure is a flight controller we have here does have an onboard flash so we're going to be using the internal sd card that is on this flight controller if you had uh an external sd card you could select that up here in the drop down the only other thing i change is the logging rate the higher this number is the more data you're able to collect in your black box log if you go too high it could tax the processor on your flight controller and cost some issues so the recommended setting to use for your logging rate should be at one half and that's 1600 hertz with this flight controller you have those settings selected you can hit save and reboot another thing too i'm going to go back down to the black box here and just confirm that my settings are saved i've done a couple test flights on this quad so i have some black box information saved here i want to wipe out all of that stuff so what i'm going to do is erase the flash on this uh flight controller after it erases everything will be set up another nice feature at least in this version of beta flight everything's automatic so as long as you have your black box configured as soon as you arm the drone it's going to record the black box information all right so we've finished up erasing all of the information on there so we've we're blank we've got plenty of free space and we can do our first test flight we're going to be doing multiple quick little line of sight flights we're going to be taking the craft up and we're just going to be doing you know very strong stick inputs it's going to be looking like this as we do our test hover we're going to record that 15 second flight and after each one of those we're going to go back into beta flight and we're going to move certain sliders one at a time and you know increments of two or three and we're going to take each one of those logs and we're going to compare all of them in the pid toolbox one thing that i do recommend when doing this only arm the drone once per plugin of the battery because every time you plug in the battery it resets the flight controller which allows you to start a completely new log every time you arm the drone get it up in the air and what we're going to do we have these slow rates we're just going to pitch and roll in all directions for about 10 15 seconds and you want them to be pretty strong movements but yeah just like that you can now land the drone now we're going to go back to beta flight and this process is actually going to be so much easier if you're on analog or using the fat shark dominator system because you have canvas mode and you can actually use your goggles to go in and move the sliders quickly and you don't have to unplug the battery it just makes life easier but we're first starting off by trying to find the best relationship or the best p to d gain ratios all we're doing is we're starting with our d gains pretty low compared to p and we're just each one of these flights that we're do we're going to raise this slider at this the dampening slider we're going to raise it in increments of two so we just did our first flight with the dampening slider at point six now we're going to slide it up to point eight hit save and do another quick 15 second flight you're keeping p locked and you're just slowly in each one of these logs you're changing the d gain by doing this you'll be able to see what a low p to d ratio looks like versus a higher p to d ratio and you'll see each step along the way by looking at all of those at once you can pick the best one that best suture quad i'm not locking in any settings yet until i look at these logs that i'm creating boom we go from point eight we're going to slide it up in another increment of two now we're at one all right now that we are moving into the higher values on this d gain slider i'm starting to notice kind of this trilling sound in the motors i don't know if you're able to hear it on the audio here it's kind of this trilling high pitched sound that you get from the motors as d gain starts to go too high with our test here i'm actually going to push it too high just so you can hear what that trilling sounds like we are up to slider 1.4 now i'm pretty sure based off a previous test is way too much dampening for this quad yeah i'm getting kind of i'm starting to hear it basically is uh what i'm noticing usually when you hear things that aren't smooth it's time to back them down a little bit so just getting our test a little 15 second flight and back down right there when i landed two i got a little bump and it sounded like motors ramped up real quick which is another sign that d gain is too high because it acted like it wanted to do this fly away thing just me without disarming bumping it off the ground it spun the motors up real high and it kind of acted like it wanted to take off so i think we've we've reached a point with d game where it's probably over dampened so it's not worth going back in and doing another flight and sliding that slider up so now i'm going to plug into beta flight and pull those black box logs to do that you're going to go down to the black box uh tab at the bottom and you're going to activate mass storage device mode kind of basically turns your flight controller into a usb drive that you can see here that you've got your five logs that we just took so you've downloaded the most recent version of pit toolbox and uh you've opened up the folder on your computer somewhere you're just going to want to open up the pit toolbox folder here open up the main folder inside there and then you can see that you have your pid toolbox application now to access the black box logs that you just recorded you're going to need to get those logs into this main folder here that also has the application so select all five of those logs that i just took slide those over here all the files are in the the main folder of your pit toolbox software now you can open up the pit toolbox log viewer first thing you're going to need to do is select those log files that you've just moved to that main folder so we've got one two three four five open those up ah this is a good example of what i was talking about earlier making sure to unplug your battery every time you arm the quad and record a log because right here on this log you can see that there are two separate recordings um this happened because i armed the quad disarmed and then rearm the quad uh so you can see here the duration of the first one is only point eight of a second and the second option here was the full 28 second flight that i did so uh when you see this air or when you see this message pop up you're just going to select the longer of the two flights so now cool those have loaded in and you got these squiggly lines um showing up on the screen here and what this is showing you is the gyro information in the set point information and these lines up and down are the stick inputs that uh if you've made so one cool thing um with this pid toolbox basement tuning method is i believe his name brian white the person that came up with this software found that you don't necessarily have to make crazy big stick inputs like you don't have to do full 360 degree flips and rolls to get good information out of your black box logs so just these simple little you know twitches back and forth is able to pull all of this great information first thing we need to do is trim up each one of these logs and to do that you're going to select the trim tool basically the reason we're doing this is you only want the actual flight data in this log so the takeoff and the landing you don't want any of that information here so we're just going to trim that off you'll go through and select each one of these files one at a time uh look here some of my flights are a little longer than the others but doesn't really matter because all the information's the same now once you've trimmed up all of the black box logs you're going to want to go into the step response tool you're going to want to select all five of the uh logs that you've uh poured it over and you're going to run those well we've got some crazy squiggly lines popping up here on the screen another thing um that is recommended you do because the information kind of gets uh confusing here is just add the y correction and that will kind of straighten up everything on this line what i need to do is reset this and only have one log showing basically what you have here in this step response tool you have this graph and it shows you the relationship between your set point and your gyro what you want is your set point which is the command that you're giving the drone to match and line up with your gyro perfectly the gyro is what um is trying to follow your set point is trying to follow the uh stick command that you're assigning you want those two to line up in line as possible if you look here the one on this graph is your set point and the line the swiggly line here is your gyro so you've got that information for roll pitch and yaw we are only doing this for pitch and roll we're not really worrying about yaw because don't really use much yaw in in our flying so i let the sliders do the yaw tuning for me i let it kind of come along for the ride so i'm really only focusing on pitch and roll with this process we've got the line in the middle this one and what we're looking to do is we're trying to get it so that the gyro line goes straight up to the one here as quickly as possible without overshooting like you see here we've got these five separate logs here and if i wanted to i can run all five of them at the same time currently right now i have our first log which had our p-gain set at 45 and our d-gains down very low the slider was down at 0.6 and looking at the graph here you can see that there isn't enough d-gain because the line is going past one which is our set point going past it's overshooting past set point and it's uh kind of bouncing back here um it does eventually reach that point but it's not clean it's going past and then eventually making it to it so what do we do to fix that typically you add more d-gain to dampen out that overshoot so on our second log i'm going to add to this you can see now that the line has come down a little bit and i've moved up from 17 on the d-gain to 23 on the d-gain it's getting a little bit better but it could use a little bit more so i'm going to run log 3 where i've bumped the d-gain up to 30 and it's starting to look pretty good here we're getting really close to set point actually i can go back reset and just show you log 3 that's getting pretty close probably could use a little bit more d-gain um to you know really uh even it out right here but we're looking pretty good number three which is one on the slider we're 45 and 30 45 for p 30 on the d-gain it's it's probably looking as best as it's going to be but let's go and look at the other logs you can start to see over dampening so here on log four you can see at least on pitch it's it's having a harder time getting up to set points over dampened and then same thing on number five yeah let's see what's looking number five yes it's definitely over dampened it's not actually making it to set point um it's definitely not overshooting and you can see here with that extra d-gain all the way up at 42 it's uh it's over damp it's kind of pushing so basically what you want to see is you want this line right here to make it to set point without overshoot and without this line right here three is probably the sweet spot i can tweak the sliders around a little bit to get rid of this little bit of overshoot see if i want to get really particular and really you know anal about this i will go back into beta flight here you can play around with the pitch dampening and tracking like maybe you need just a hair more d-gain on pitch to you know make it so that these uh step response sliders are dialed in you know a little bit more things like that you can kind of go down a rabbit hole by doing that you'll be taking out another log going over here tweaking one setting back again this right here looks pretty good an interesting thing to point out is that after all of those tests it turns out that the default setting of one on the d-gain slider is actually best for this build but still good that we went through this process to figure it out now that we figured out the best relationship between our p-gains and d-gains we can start messing with the master slider what i like to do is first start off a little bit lower with the master slider you're just going to crank this up in increments of two in the step response tool that we were using just earlier if you start to notice a lot of ice oscillations in those lines there like very big swooping oscillations usually that means your gains are too high so that's why i like to just start off a little bit lower than normal and i'm just i want to see all the data that i can so i'm going to start at point eight i'm going to crank it up to point two one point two one point four and uh the noises i was talking about before when i'm listening to the flights it really comes out when you're moving the master slider so yeah we'll start it off in point eight and we're going to go back again and we're going to record three or four more flights and i guess it's worth mentioning that doing this test flight right here um isn't the easiest thing in the world it really does make more sense to do this outside but you you can do it inside a few absolutely have to i'm definitely hearing the the trilling oscillation sound is that kind of sound that's yeah gains are way too high now this would probably be flyable but uh i'm pretty sure right now just from that if i feel these motors yeah they're they're actually fine but i can feel some heat so we've maxed out on one point eight on the slider so we're going to do the same thing we did for the p2d balance we're going to do the same thing here where we take those logs and we put them in the pid toolbox folder i did not format that so we're just going to want to move the new logs that we just recorded into that main folder so we've got everything from five down six seven eight nine ten and eleven we're going to bring those over here after they've moved over you can go back into the pid toolbox tool since we're using our new logs you can just reset this here and select the new logs that we're going to be using using everything down from six to eleven just going to select those and open same thing again where i armed twice on one of my logs so i'm selecting the one for two sec or 22 seconds hit okay and we're going to trim them up again so back to that step response tool we're going to select these five here and we're going to run this with the y correction on okay things are looking a little odd here each one of the colors represents a different log each one of these logs we had different master multiplier settings so if you look here at the darkest value uh 35 was what we had set for the p-gain 23 is what we had set for the d-gain and we're just moving that slider up uh on each one of these logs so you can see the values increasing everything looks kind of similar here it's all you know smashed together so if i just want to open up one of those logs one at a time this is when i had the master multiplier all the way down at 0.8 uh these are not aggressive enough games so i'm getting this overshoot right here can open up the next one which is the master multiplier at one same thing they're still not aggressive enough i'm getting some like overshoot over here at 1.2 this one's looking a lot better so i'm thinking that we're our gains are starting to get in the right spot we're getting right up to uh our set point and we've got a pretty smooth line across the board here but as we keep raising that slider up we'll start to see these oscillations so you can see here p-gain the just the gains are getting too high so you're getting these little wobbles and oscillations and that's that trilling sound i was telling you about earlier on the next flight log and yeah you're just getting these oscillations letting you know that gains are way too high so based out of all three of these the one that looked best to me is going to be uh log 8 which we had our p set to 53 and our d-gain set to 35 on roll 56 and 40 on pitch so yeah everything's coming straight up to set point just the way i want or as cleanly as possible with this quick tune this position on the master slider is going to be the best for our tune i believe that was master slider 1.2 we're getting close to being finished we've got two more sets of flights to do next thing we're going to do is we're going to bring in our eye gain and same thing we're going to do some quick little tests and we're trying to find the best eye to p-balance for this slider we're going to be moving it up in increments of three if you only go up in smaller increments it's kind of hard to see the differences on that step response tool so point three is usually where i go starting on the slider and i'm going to move it up in increments of three so point three point six point nine uh one point two probably the highest i'm going to go is one point two because usually when um you start getting higher on the eye gains it's going to force some overshoot so usually on most of our five inch builds i end up around point six somewhere there but we're going to do that same test again so you can uh visually see what's happening before we actually go into our flights let's look at our black box log and actually yes you can see here that we've used up quite a bit of space so it's it's a good in this process to to go back and actually uh erase that information so that you have a clean slate to work of all of these quick flights they're going to fill up your uh internal storage on the flight controller pretty quick and nothing is more frustrating than thinking that you're taking a black box log when nothing's actually recording because you're maxed out on space now we're formatted and we're ready to do our p to i balance test all right so we can see here everything kind of looks the same i'm noticing some stuff here that the more i gain i add the higher it's supposed to overshoot the last bit of i gain that i added didn't overshoot that much i can't say sometimes things just don't show up exactly how you expect them to show up if you're having issues getting good information you might have to go back and rerecord some stuff or rerecord your logs yeah so for whatever reason this is not giving me the data that i expected as i raise i gain i typically what i expect to see is for this line to overshoot past the set point line at one there and i'm kind of getting some odd information so yeah what i'd like to do here is just record maybe a few more extra logs this battery i've been using the whole time is like pretty dead at this point so that very well could have affected the results that i just got so i'm going to grab a fresh battery now that i've noticed that that brings up a good point that uh while you're doing this uh each one of your sets of tests you want the battery voltage to probably be close to the same for each one of your tests if uh i had some charge i don't know 3.8 3.9 volts per cell when i started and then if uh by the time i get to my last test my cell voltage is down to 3.4 it's not going to give me great information took the slider all the way down from 0.3 up to 1.3 so we hope we should have some pretty good information here this information is a little bit better it looks like you can see here as i as the eye gains get higher you start to see more and more overshoot it looks like here probably between or let's see probably between red and the darker maroon are going to be our two options those look like they come straight up to set point so let's reset we're going to compare between these two number one that's where their eye gains all the way down at 28 number two looks a little bit cleaner so i'm going to run number two that to me between the two looks like the cleanest option so i believe that's when we had our eye gain slider down at 0.6 like i said you can really fine tune and tweak these take hundreds of logs and just you know look at your step response tool over and over and over again but you just want to kind of get it as close as possible without driving yourself insane so to me this is a pretty good baseline i can review one step up just to see compared to this but yeah i'm definitely getting too much overshoot here so based on these results p at 53 for roll i at 57 and our d at 35 should be pretty good let's just look at one more time for a sanity check cross the board that looks pretty good we're going to go back to this uh pids here and we're going to move that drift wobble eye gain slider down to 0.6 the final slider set that we have to worry about is going to be the feed forward gains best way to look at this uh the feed forward slider is still going to be in the pit toolbox but you're not going to be using the step response tool anymore you're just going to be looking at the gyro versus set point data here on the main screen and what you're going to want to do kind of zoom in using the zoom feature if you look you can see that there is a red line here which is your set point that's what you're commanding the quad to do and then you've got gyro which is what the quad is actually doing if you see that there is this little gap here between the two and that's phase delay and what feed forward is going to do by increasing that is uh decrease the phase delay and it's going to bring these two lines a lot closer together so the best way to to test this and figure it out at least from the simple pit toolbox tuning method is to just slowly take some logs same as we've been doing and increase the stick response slider uh after each flight on average between 0.5 and 1 seem to be a really good sweet spot so i uh usually start off around 0.5 and just take logs where i step it up in increments of uh one cool now this time around uh you don't have to worry about trimming anything up because we're not going to be using the step response tool we're just going to be looking at the traces here let's zoom in on a roll here this is with a feed forward set at 0.5 you can still you can see that there's some latency between uh set point and gyro move on to the next log i just visually look at the lines here and i just look for them to get closer and closer together so as i look at each one of these logs and i zoom in you'll start to see that the traces will almost line up on each other so we're at 0.8 this is 0.9 yeah they're definitely getting closer especially here in the start they're almost like right on top of each other number nine number 10 this is probably close to where we're going to want to be yeah they're like basically on top of each other here but if we look at the very last log where i crank the feed forward slider all the way up to like 1.6 or 1.5 you'll probably start to see some overshoot here yes you can see now that gyro especially up here on some of these traces is a shooting pass set point it's overshooting you don't want overshoot so that's a little overkill on feed forward but it's a field thing so you can kind of play around but uh main thing i'm trying to explain and show you here is that as you bring uh your feed forward gains higher it will reduce the latency between set point and gyro so for me uh i think the sweet spot is probably going to be yeah i think number nine is going to be the sweet spot and that is when i had the slider set to 0.9 wait nine so bring that back down we'll hit save and now it's time to go out and do a test flight an actual an actual test flight main reason we're going out to do this test flight is to verify that everything is working smoothly but also we're going to be uh messing with our anti-gravity gain i've already bumped this up to a number that uh i'm pretty sure works best on all of our quads but i'm going to set it to 3.5 for right now which is the stock setting anti-gravity it has to do with eye gain but the best way to explain it is when you're flying and you're doing fast throttle movements when anti-gravity is not set correctly you'll notice that the nose of the drone as you're adjusting throttle no pitch no roll input anything like that but as you're adjusting throttle you'll notice the nose bobble up and down like that as you bring up anti-gravity gain it'll fix that issue to where you pump throttle and everything is locked its nose isn't bobbling UAV tech calls them throttles yes but it's just like with anything um there's like a sweet spot as you're cranking up the anti-gravity gain you'll notice uh once you've gone too far that the throttles kind of come back and actually as you do these fast throttle movements you'll get weird jitters and uh just just weird things will start happening so there is a sweet spot for the anti-gravity the test flights we're going to be doing are three main things we're we're going to be doing smooth forward flight we just want to see that the craft moves forward and you know smooth straight lines prop wash performance so typically what I do is I fly really fast in a straight line do a 180 degree turn uh forward in the opposite direction to make sure there's no you know crazy prop wash there and then the last thing is the anti-gravity where I'm going to take the throttle I'm just going to chop it up and down I'm going to see how the nose reacts and I'm going to be listening for any like grinding or ticking sounds things like that but right now everything sounds completely smooth another thing I'll do is I'll lift up lift up the nose lift up the sides and I'll also listen listen for that ticking and grinding sound um everything sounds clean right now but if you do get that that could be a sign that your d-gain is too high or your filters could be a little out of whack but uh everything's sounding good here so I'm going to go ahead and take off and first things first smooth forward flight let me get turned around I'm going to take my hand off the pitch and roll stick and just see what we've got so far everything looks great yeah nice and smooth next uh prop wash performance oh basically a little bit right there but basically no prop wash at all that's full throttle the opposite direction too so yeah it's great last thing I'm going to check for the throttles oh yeah nose is all over the place so we're definitely going to need to raise up the anti-gravity oh yeah okay let's bring it back in and crank up the anti-gravity gain at stock it's at 3.5 which I think works really well for race quads but these heavier freestyle quads you typically need a little bit more more gain you can jump this number up quite a bit too I think the most anti-gravity gain I've ever had on a five inch build was up to maybe 10 bigger seven or ten inch crafts I've seen it like 12-15 even you can kind of play around a lot like you can move it up to 10 move it down you know big big jumps on the movements I'm just going to go ahead and set it to six because from previous test bump ended up to six was probably the best so right away I can tell the difference there's still some throttle in there but it's nowhere near as bad as it was when it was on 3.5 so I think what I'm actually going to do is just raise it up a little bit more to seven I think that will do it for us so I'm going to go ahead and bring it back in crank this up to seven hit save oh yeah huge improvement I mean there is still a little bit there but I don't think that's a problem at all so then finally I just stress test everything I'm not a very good spank pilot but yeah let's do some very aggressive maneuvers and what I'm looking for is to make sure nothing crazy happens because when you go out flying you want to make sure that your quad can handle pretty much anything you put it through so yeah just a lot of quick moves back and forth another thing to check to is your motor temperature I forgot to mention that earlier but if you see any motor heat things like that you may need to go back to the drawing board as far as changing some of your settings but we've had zero motor heat with this build so far can't get too crazy because this is a customer's quad but I am stress testing it pretty well and I think this is a pretty very well tuned quad so wrap up I think using this tuning method here is probably one of the easiest ways to get into the tuning process if if you're curious there are things that you can dig a whole lot deeper into if you want to get more into the filter side of things adding in some of the sliders that we didn't use for example the dynamic dampening slider Chris Rosser PID toolbox UAV tech on YouTube have some really awesome videos if you want to really dig into it but yeah using these steps here keeps everything pretty simple and you can go from a stock to a really good flying quad in about an hour this drone we tuned today we actually have available as a DIY kit on the rotor I had store but if you don't want to mess with building it or tuning it I'll actually do that for you because we sell this as a built option where it comes to you out of the box ready to fly this is actually going to a customer I don't have his name but this afternoon as soon as we finish here I'm going to take this tune and all the settings that we've saved and I'm actually going to use that for skyliners moving forward on 4.3 tunes these are the steps that I take and it will get your quad to fly good it may not fly perfect but it's going to fly way better than stock settings and you're not going to have hot motors yeah you may get a little bit of prop wash here it's not going to fly exactly like alex van overs rig but if you crash this quad and let's say you chop off the tip of one of your props it's going to fly back to you this quad it can take a beating and still rip with smooth flight well thanks for watching guys I'm grus fpv and uh hope to see you in the next one