 Powermatic Benchtop Mortiser 701, a quick review and how to use video. Hello, I'm Woodworkers Paul Croson here, a small workshop guy. Doing some feet for my samurai workbench that involves blind mortises in the feet. And for that, I'm using my Powermatic Benchtop Mortiser model number 701. So let's do a quick review of that machine and how it works. To get light on the subject, I highly recommend these electric magnetic sewing machine lights. For my half inch mortising bit, I move over one of the two spacer bars so that the bit will not go too far up into the collet. The bit and the mortising chisel are both very sharp, so you'll want to use a board or some gloves. While holding the bit up against the spacer bar, tighten your collet with your wrench. Next, you swing the spacer bar out of the way and then you push up the chisel itself and then tighten it with a provided thumb screw. When you're done with this process, the drill bit should be slightly below the chisel, maybe an eighth to a quarter of an inch. The Powermatic Benchtop Mortiser comes with a depth stop, so first I need to measure what the depth of my mortise needs to be and that's what I'm doing here. The Benchtop Mortiser comes with a hold down device that can be flipped over in either of two positions depending on the width of your workpiece. In this case, I need the bars to be up because I have a fairly fat workpiece. About my only complaint with this machine is that the design of the hold down piece is such that it gets hung up on the threads of the device that allows it to go up and down and so that's kind of bothersome. The machine has an adjustable fence with a nice dial handle to move it forward and backwards, so here I am positioning it so that I can check my depth stop. So depth stop set, I plunge it all the way down and then compare that with my line on the side. This is also a good time to get the mortising square bit aligned with your workpiece. Here I'm still trying to fine tune the depth stop to where I need it to be so I'm making some adjustments and then testing again. I have started my mortise here by using my router with a guide bushing and give me a little bit of depth. That gives me something I can register my power-o-matic mortising bit against when I now want to get the proper depth. If I could have gotten the full depth with my router, I would have done it that way, but I couldn't. With things in place, I locked down the fence with some locked down bars in the back and then I locked the workpiece with some dials in the front. Okay, it's go time. Time to turn on all the power and to do the first plunge. I go part way down and then bring it up to let it release the chips because this is a fresh hole. And then I'm going to plunge it down all the way to where my depth stop says I can't go any further. Having done that, I will then move the workpiece over and it can be moved because of the little roller slide bars in the front. You may or may not want to stop at this point and vacuum out the chips so you can see what you're doing. I do a few plunges without cleaning out the chips and then I finally come back in with a vacuum and clean everything out so I can see where I am. I do find that bench top mortises are not as accurate as routers can be for cutting mortises and so they are great for blind mortises, but I wouldn't want to use them for any kind of a through mortise. Actually you could use it to hog out the great majority of the device in a fairly square manner and then come back in with your chisel and bring it up to exactly whatever your desired lines are for your through mortise or through tenon. Keep a vacuum cleaner close by so that you can get the dust out of the way and see what you're doing. Next it's time to check and see if I'm getting the proper depth that I want so I have a little L square that I can stick in there. You commonly are going to have a lot of debris in the bottom so either take it out of everything and dump it over or loosen it up and then suck it out with a vacuum. Then you can get a more accurate depth measurement. Otherwise you're just measuring the distance down to your chips and sawdust. Well that's it. I love this machine. Small workshop guy signing off.