 Welcome back guys. I've got another video for you I'm gonna show you one of the boxes that I built so I could test my train equipment What it is is basically a resistive circuit that trains cells, which I believe is pretty expensive I built this thing for probably less than 20 bucks I'm gonna show you what I did how I built it and kind of give you guys some ideas on what you could do to build your Own I'm not necessarily gonna list every little part number or anything like that You'll have to do a little research But the plan on how I laid it out and stuff usually is enough for most people out there to get things put together and get Started on it. So let's take a look and see what I got. This is my first box I built Originally when I did it I decided I was going to use a three-position switch Essentially, it's a single-pole double throw switch where I would make my center a off position And then up was going to be a closed position Then going all the way down was going to be the resistive circuit for whatever mode that you wanted to be in I also added a three amp resettable breaker so that if anything would go wrong It would be protected now The only thing I didn't like about the way ended up doing it and just like anything you start learning real quick What your mistakes are once you start using it? I like my jumper short so that I'm not getting it caught on things But what I end up doing was we went through here as you can imagine the red one is my R or my common wire and Then I labeled each one of them with a paint marker now. I don't use this box anymore I ended up developing a new one Now the one that I use now is this one here This is a lot larger than what the other one is I added a magnet on the back So what I'll do is I'll just stick it on the side of the unit that way don't lose it And then I'll go ahead and set it for what mode I need This is kind of generic I went ahead and just set it so that Whatever position I need or whatever mode I need I can flip it to it and be done on the side here You can see enthalpy enthalpy is a resistor circuit that allows you to unplug the enthalpy control outside If you have that some economizers are going to be using just a standard temperature control to put it into Yes or no situation open or closed But if you have a little bit nicer one where you have enthalpy control This is going to allow you to test it on the warm days when you're not going to normally need the economizer This center conductor here is your common all these around the outside are going to be where you hook your resistors to it This switch I think I picked up on either Amazon or eBay. Let's go ahead and tear this thing apart and take a look inside and see what we did Okay, as you can see nothing special on this. It's just a magnet that allowed me to Stick it on the side of the unit so I don't have to mess with it and on the inside There's not a whole lot to this thing as you can see I added some dielectric grease to it to keep it from having any Issues made it a lot easier to turn and then I went through and picked the resistors that I needed for The circuit depending on what it was All of them basically are going to be tied together just like you see here I had a couple of them that I needed a higher resistor So what I end up doing is put a couple of them in series But as you can see we ended up putting some strain relief here on the Coil here that way if you pull on it, it's not going to pull through the box nothing real fancy guys, but and then we just took This was a meter lead that I had left over that wasn't any good anymore These are the Mueller gator clips which are one of the better brands out there And then we actually soldered into the light position there So you've got a real good connection that you're not going to be able to pull apart and you can pick up these gators here You can get the Mueller online on eBay or you can go to your local Lowe's Minards Home Depot, whatever and pick up some of these GB's There's the UPC symbol on it so you can look that up But you know these are about a dollar I think or maybe two dollars max and these are what I use for my jumpers So what I'll do is I'll buy two of them I'll make a jumper that uses the same color on each side as you can see down here This is the larger resistor I put some heat shrink tubing on it and just did some twists and soldered it together and then the same thing here I brought these all together and I was able to solder them all here and then That's the way it terminated but as you can see this box is a lot larger than what it needed to be It'd been nice if I could have found one that was as wide This way and the other way and I could have only made it about that big But I didn't see any I didn't look super hard But I did look around a little bit but as you can see these boxes are project boxes You can pick them up online now. Let's go ahead and take a look at this other one and we'll go ahead and get those resistances This is the Resistances for the most common ones out there if you're g y w's condomizer reheat I built this thing obviously a couple years ago But those are your resistances right there. You can always pause it look at it a screenshot from the factory You can see it on any train unit. I'm not We're not a train dealer, so I don't work on a bunch of them But the one I do this makes the testing procedure so much easier generally with this circuit here you will Just need to tap it one time and You can remove it from the circuit and then you'll be able to Let the unit run but you can leave it in the circuit But it's not necessary to keep it in there as you can see on this one here I basically drilled a hole in the side of it put a rubber grommet on it put a wire Tie there so couldn't be pulled the one direction and then ran it on through into the breaker out of the breaker came through and hit the center conductor of all those Single pull double throw switches when I flipped it down, which kicks the bottom plate forward That's going to put you from common to the wire which is going to be a dry contact And then when you'd flip it the other way it's going to take it from our down to the resistor and then out on the Oh Just like with anything Power goes to the shortest path of resistance. So with that resistor being on there would have absolutely no effect on it at all Obviously, I had to add a couple resistors there for the economizer circuit Which I think is what that one is and then you got to be really careful when you're soldering little switches like this Which was one of the other reasons why I didn't like that Have a Haco soldering station here with this thing here. This is about a hundred or more dollars I you don't have to have something like that, but you can sit there and set it for whatever temperature you want So if you're going to be doing some fancy soldering This is definitely a nice one to do it. It's temperature regulated But you don't have to have nothing quite that nice one of the important things as always is making sure that your tip is Tend and it's clean and Using some really good solder which I use some really thin stuff, which is really nice This one here is made by Loctite the diameter on its point five millimeter This is some really good stuff. It's got the flux built into it But I still like to use my flux pin What I'll do when I'm going to do some soldering so I can get on and off of it as quickly as possible Not only do I have the heat turned down around 650 ish area, but I will pretend my wires And then a same thing with my connections and I'll go ahead and flux them ahead of time Because with this little micro switches as you can see I made the mistake and I burnt these two up This was before I got the nice Haco there. I just using a 30 watt pencil soldering gun which you know I use I usually keep one of those on my truck for emergency repairs and things like that What I'll do is I'll tend those and then I'll go ahead and just Reheat it once I get it to it and that just seems to make a real fast connection really simple But as you can see there's not a whole lot to these things and I believe these sell for $200 I've got nickels and dimes in the resistors the switches here were pretty expensive I think these might have been somewhere around $2 a piece I don't remember but I know this one here definitely wasn't and this is the way I would definitely go because it gives you 12 positions and It's just more flexible because you're only going to do one thing at a time anyhow when you're talking the resistive switches This here with it with it being the way it is generally when you'd move it you'd pull it off of the Terminals, so I really don't like this one near as much but I was playing on salvaging it and Using it for like my geothermal testing water furnace stuff like that. All right guys I want to thank you for stopping by and taking the time to watch the video Hope you enjoyed it if you did please like share and subscribe Check the links out down below and while you're down there Make sure you leave a comment of any ideas you have for my next video I would like to maybe do all top seas on equipment that has failed so we can figure out why it failed Along with other tips tricks tools reviews helpful hints on getting a job what to do what to look for How to be successful in the field and things that just make you a better technician and until next time We'll catch you on the next one All right, we're gonna go ahead and go through the resistances that are on this box here The enthalpy comes in at 1200 ohms There's gonna be a little bit of variance on the resistance because of the accuracy of the resistor is going to vary possibly anywhere from 1 to 20% depending on what kind of resistor it is Emergency heat is going to come in at 47,000 ohms Dehum, dehumidification or defrost depending on whether you're working on what type of unit is coming in at 33,000 W4 is coming in at 27,000 ohms W3 is at 22,000 ohms W2 comes in it comes in at 15,000 ohms W1 comes in at 10,000 ohms Y3 comes in at 8,000 Y2 comes in at 6,800 Y1 comes in at 4,600 ohms The economizer comes in at 3,300 and a G signal or just fan only comes in at 2200 The economizer what it'll do is it'll just force it open now. You can always go ahead and cycle it from the test Terminals short them together and if you leave it on there I believe it'll just cycle one to the next to the next to the next Train is not our primary brand that we work on. I just have you know Basic knowledge of them and how to make them run and how to adjust them Nowhere near the familiarity of what I do towards say a Lennox or a carrier. There you go That's the resistance of the box that I have