 Hi you guys welcome back to another sew-along. I am Lindsay and this is my YouTube channel inside the hem if you are here From seam work welcome. We are doing another sew-along together this time It's for their Fallon woven jogger pants episode is what I call episode zero It's pretty much all the prep work and everything you need to do before we actually get into the sewing of the pattern So we are going to cover everything from fit to fabric choices I've got some inspiration from Pinterest and like ready to wear inspiration for us to look at So it should get you nice and inspired and get you all the information that you need to get ready to Pick your size Cut out your pattern make any alterations that you need to make and cutting out your fabric pieces If you need some help staying organized and staying motivated staying on track I have a free workbook that I do with all my sew-alongs And you can download it at the link in the description box. It's completely free It's just like a helpful little resource for you to follow along with while you participate in the sew-along So without further ado, let's get to checking out the Fallon pattern. All right, so let's get into it This is the seam work Fallon jogger pants sewing pattern Super cute, right? We get to the pattern flats. We can see some more of the design details So we've got an elastic waistband Slash pockets. We've got a cargo pocket that kind of wraps around just one leg And then these leg knee patches There's also elastic at the ankle as well in addition There are these back pockets that kind of like disappear into the side seam, which is unique and interesting And then on the inside you can see it's unlined But we have like a little bit of a waistband facing we have Same thing for the ankle like a casing for the ankle elastic and then you can see the finishing details on the pockets Two I love that they include the insides. Okay, so now we are getting into fit So before we do that, let me show you some other inspiration pictures that I found from our good friend Pinterest Okay, so all I did was type in woven cargo pants elastic outfit And this this is the results so you can see here even if you think that Jogger style pants are not your vibe I want you to take a look at some of the different types of Styles we have here how they're styling them how they're wearing them the shoes the shirts. They're pairing with them and see if maybe It is a little bit more your style like maybe you think oh, I can't pull off Cargo pants because you know my style is a little bit more glamorous Well, maybe we can find something a little bit, you know silky or you know satiny or maybe you think you know I can't pull off jogger pants because I don't like to wear Sneakers well, then we can find some that have like different types of flats or sandals that you can wear get what I'm going with this so Also, I want you to pay attention to fabrication as we look through this as well That'll help you pick your fabrics for your joggers. So you can see there's a lot of neutrals, right? I think that that kind of lends itself to the like where the inspiration for cargo pants even come from like the military and all that Hunting all that stuff So we've got a lot of all of green. We've got a lot of khaki and Then we'll see a lot of denim too And then there's you know, if you're a colorful girl make them colorful. You can see what those look like here Here's a blue pair. That's probably a like a chino. That's what I'm seeing a lot of so far All of these are like chino type fabrics So chino twill Here is an actual camo fabric But all of these are woven, okay, none of these have any stretch in them at all these here have a little bit more drape To them you can see that here. These are probably some kind of linen or maybe even just like a tightly woven cotton think like gosh like But a lawn batiste something like that We also have I do love that rust color. Here's one that's like a little bit more satiny. Yeah satin cargo joggers Right, so if you think you're like more of a dressy kind of girl Here's some satin ones and look they even dressed them down with sneakers. That's super cute a little outfit easy to pull off We have a lot of them just simply being paired with T-shirts tank tops something tucked in or like a crop top. You don't have to show your belly, but Just like a fitted tee is what we're mostly seeing here Some people are pairing it with another layer for fall with like a oversized button down a lightweight jacket of some kind She doubled up her t-shirts. That's really cute kind of throwback to the 90s that we're seeing a lot All right, and when as we talk about fit to remember how some of these are fitting We've got some looser fitting ones. We've got closer fitting ones. It really kind of runs the gamut Like these have hardly any ease in them at all. So do these have barely any ease? Although they are she in so there's a whole debate to be had there But these are really loose and kind of like balloony. So again, think about how you want yours to fit how you want yours to look Before we get into picking fabrics and things like that, but you're going to choose a woven fabric With You know A little bit of drape will be nice. That'll help give you kind of the Not if you don't want them to balloon out, right? If you don't want them to stand away from body intentionally, then you're going to want to have a little drape So what that means is something like tensile twill So twill weave is super tight, right structured, but the tensile the rayon makes it a little bit more drapey Something like this is like super drapey that might might even be like a Like a cotton like a loosely woven cotton think like gauze maybe Maybe I don't know And then like I said before your twills your chinos You can do corduroy. Like how cool that is the corduroy should have a like a letter weight Corduroy you definitely don't want something that's like You know that would make like a Super stiff jacket. You want it to have a little bit of drape even this corduroy. You can see it has some folds in the fabric um Denim's an option linen. That's what this is probably So yeah lots and lots of options And then you can also if you're if you find something that you super super love like let's say let me find one that's like from a store maybe Sophie and Hailey All right, so fee and Hailey. Here we go Description mineral wash cargo jogger features tensile washed fabrics. So, you know, we've got like a rayon Like a distressed rayon probably a twill So you can go in and and learn a little bit about the fabrics from the from the listing Okay, hopefully that helps you there now regarding fit both are drafted for a height of five eight So both of these are for five eight Okay And then here is your ease chart. So you don't need to do the Fast fit worksheet on this they do all the work for you You are going to look at the take your measurements from the measurement chart Your minute charts coming coming coming. Okay, so you're going to find your hip measurement Waste again, I'm we're not going to waste too much. We're going to look at the hip first and you're going to see like Mi a zero zero to 18 like I think my measurements came in at like 46 But I know I'm curvier Right than than this I have more of A difference between my waist and my hip and I know that a full seat adjustment usually does me well having more room in the bum So even though I can use either of the Categories I opted for the curvy category because I knew that I could make this smaller size and Well, actually I was in between sizes I can make the smaller size and get a little bit more room for my bum Which is where most of my hip measurement comes from anyways And because I was in between sizes to determine whether or not I should size down or size up I went back up here to the ease chart And could see there is four and three quarters in the misses Five and a quarter in the curvy five and a quarter in the hip is a lot So I know I can size down and I will be just fine Okay, so Then on top of all of that fit wise I also implemented the top down center out pants fitting method I just do like a quick and dirty version. You know me. I'm not spending a lot of time over fitting clothes especially Elastic waist loose fitting jogger pants, right? So try not to overthink it too much. Here's Where I got when I did my top down center out. I took this quick little video Um, so you can see how the pants are fitting ended up increasing the back rise by two whole inches And then increasing the front rise by I think five eighths three quarters And then I was able to remove some from the back And add some to the front now I know that seems counterintuitive for someone that has a full bum But that's just how this worked out for me. I again try not to overthink it I just do what the top down center out method teaches me And that's what I go with. Um, but you can also see here in this little video. I went ahead and like pinned on where the pockets are supposed to go and you can see that I mean, I'm five five. Okay. So I already knew these were going to be too long by three inches But that knee patch starts at the top of my knee. That's not it. It's not a shin guard It's a knee patch So I knew I needed to move that up And then if I'm moving that up then the cargo pocket needs to be moved up And if that's being moved up then the back pocket needs, you know what I mean? So because I added to the rise and I have a shorter end seam I had to do some Funky work with the length measurement once I got this circumference figured out Then I started playing around with length And I'll show you all of this in my pattern pieces and how I made the adjustments here in a second I wanted to make sure that like in these photos how The knee patch starts at her mid thigh. I wanted to make sure that mine did that Um, I also was considering too. How am I going to wear these? Am I a heel girly? Am I a sneaker girly? Am I a ballet flat? Like how am I going to wear them because that determines Where these end on your ankle? I love to have a little bit of ankle showing I think it's super super flattering and very feminine and I do have a feminine aspect to my style even though it's not overly Feminine anymore it used to be um, there is still an element of that And I think this is a little bit more feminine than say, you know, something that comes all the way down to the top of the foot I wanted mine to end at my ankle I also wanted my rise to be at my waist at my natural waist. That's the most flattering for me Um, so I factored that in when I did top down center out, right? So you're starting to consider this pattern Fitting the way you want it to fit not necessarily the way that They want it to fit And in conjunction with that in addition to that you're also making sure that some of these details are correct for you I mean the knee patch was way down here for me. So that wasn't going to cut it You know what I mean? So looking at these Um models wearing them looking at how it fits you whenever you do your little muslin mock-up for top down center out Um determine the fit Changes you're gonna make here's what they did for everyone in this photo So because it's size inclusive they have ryan Who I think is one of the husbands how cute is he? um, and they have his, um, measurements And how they altered it for him same thing with tambry same thing with sarah So if you feel like you are represented here somewhere you can look at these and see what they did. All right, so let me turn the camera um to show you my Alterations that I made and just kind of how my patterns ended up looking All right. So first things first we're going to take a look at the actual pants pattern And you can see when I did top down center out and adding two inches to the back rise This is the back pattern piece And when I did that I went ahead and moved up my pocket so that that was sitting Centered on my bum and this isn't hard and fast, right? I can change this after I can all my pattern pieces cut out and I start sewing it and I want to go to apply it to the to the um I apply the pocket to the pants. I can adjust that a little bit. This is just You know me trying to plan ahead a little bit Then this is where I removed a ton of length this um section here I just There is a Right here a length and shorten line, but I also think it's important to have a length and shorten line That's above the knee patch. I didn't put that in so I just made my own You just want to make sure that it's perpendicular to the grain line I think there was like a set of notches here or something and that's what I used for mine And then I just shortened it by those four inches and then coming down here. No adjustments were made below the knee patch That's the back pattern piece. Oh and when I shortened it I did have to fill in The end seam a little bit. So this is where the original line was when I shortened it I had this big gap right here. So I just filled that in on the end seam and a little bit on the out seam as well for the front Um, I added just a little bit. This is that five eighths. I think three-quarter or something like that to the front rise again based on top down center out and Then I Shortened it again by my four inches. You can see that here transferred the marking so that they came through the You know paper so I could see them better um Yeah, and then I these were just my marking my notes for where my ankle was landing where it needs to land all of that And I just cut out the straight 12 here for the front the back though It was a little too roomy and that's what you get into like diaper territory So I did end up taking A big chunk out of this here and just straightened it out a little bit So yours might come out a little bit more If you make the curvy one, maybe I could have gotten away with making the straight size. I don't know at this point I was like too far into the curvy to To go down that path But so I just used the top down center out method to determine this is how much I wanted to take it in and remember you're not taking it in to be Close fitting you still have to have a lot of room for your waistband For the elastic and to get it up over your hip, but my back Despite how big my butt is which is way down here my The small of my back is really narrow It's really quite narrow and a lot of my waist measurement comes from the front actually So this makes common sense to me and my body All right now once you get that taken care of you do want to Apply the adjustments that you made to the top of the pattern those get applied to your waistband pieces So for me, I had to remove from the back and add to the front and then On here. This is the Knee patch. So whenever you shorten the front Hold on When you shorten the front pattern piece This Doesn't fit where it's supposed to anymore, right? It ends up being The knee patch ends up being too narrow for the pants So you do have to redraft it you can see here the original lines and here's where I add it to fill in and now When you line up the number 12 with the number 12 here, it lines up perfectly So you just want to kind of redraft the knee patch if you shorten your inseam at all Okay, so that's that And then no changes to the cargo pocket because that's just kind of on the side And pocket lining stayed the same The pocket itself stayed the same which is One more Here's the pocket itself. Oh, that's not true. I did have to add to the top of the pocket to match The new rise that I have in the front and it does take a little bit of a curve for the because this is the This is like the closer to your belly button and this is your side seam. So as it's going up we're going from that five eighths Blending into the two inches that I added in the back, right? It's kind of taking that path Um, this doesn't have to be perfect either. This just has to be close so that when you're going to sew it You're not you're not missing this huge chunk From the top of your pocket not matching up to the top of your pants So that was that Everything else about that stayed the same Here's the back pocket that stayed the same What else do we have here? These are the adjustments to the waistband And the bottom of the cargo pocket This Wait one of them. Yes. Okay. Sorry. So the back pack because the back Ends into the side seam and I did take a whole bunch out of the side seam of the Back pants I did have to chop off a little bit of this too and then I just transferred the dots to make sure that they were You know five eighths in from the side seam just copying what they had done just kind of I guess instead of shortening it This way I narrowed it so you want to think about it even going like Doing like this number. It was basically kind of a version of this just a lot smaller. Does that make sense? Um, okay. So this all stayed the same. All right. So yeah, those are my pattern pieces. That's all my fabric cut out um You can see from the List of materials that you need you'll also in addition to cutting out your fabric We'll need to go ahead and grab Selling thread right a sewing needle braided elastic. I'm using this stuff. I'm 99% sure I got it from um Joanne, but I'm not sure it's soft. It's like smooth to the touch But it's it's still a little bit malleable. I don't like that stuff. It's like hard Um, so I like it to be a little bit more comfortable I do think also if you look at the Pinterest inspiration there were some that had like a A waistband. It was a little bit taller and had like smaller channels I think that's really cute too If you are someone that wants to like draw more attention to your waist Um, you can do that by adding like making the waistband a little bit taller and then adding Multiple channels of like quarter inch or three inch in elastic doing like two or three of those making it more of like a Like a true jogger like a you know, like more athletic That was a really cute detail. I saw on Pinterest as well um, okay, so you need elastic for the waistband and elastic for the ankle Again, consider your own ankles If you want one and a quarter inch elastic or if you want one inch elastic or no elastic You know what I mean? So consider all of that as well And then a safety pin or some kind of bod can to pull All that elastic through the casings when we're done. All right, there you go That is all the information you need before we get started sewing if you are feeling Overwhelmed in any way about picking your size about your fabric choice about anything before you cut out Your fabric and you're ready to sew um, you can book me for a one-on-one private 30 minute video zoom consultation Um, I have the link for that in the description box So I can help you figure anything out answer any questions that you might have before you get to the actual Sewing of the patterns if you need any help just let me know and book me for a consult But that is gonna do it for this video. We are gonna jump right into sewing in episode one So I'll see you there