 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTech Tools. Quality tools, essential support. Alright, so we're back today to replace an evaporator on the train that fell off the tracks. We've got an evaporator that's leaking, I tried to repair it, wasn't able to do it. There was multiple different spots that it was leaking in, so we're going to change it. So let's go ahead and get started. First thing we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and get started recovering circuit 1 here. Recovered, circuit 2 is empty. Got a poundage road inside there because the stickers have completely faded away. And then we've got our top already loosened up. We're going to pop this top up, rotate it so we can get to the evaporator coil right in here. One of the first things I'm going to need to do here is get this tank prepped for the recovery. This circuit here has five and a half pounds in it, so we're going to try to reuse that. And then we're going to get all new for the one that is void right now. So we're going to go ahead and get this thing pulled down, which we've got it going down there. That way it's ready to go. Then we'll get our recovery machine hooked up and we'll start recovering. So we've got the top off of it, we're able to get in the coil. I had one leak right here that I was able to find, but that ended up being on the other circuit, not the one that I actually needed it on. At that point, I decided it was no longer worth trying to fix it after destroying that much of it, which if you look at it, I didn't even go all the way in there, but I was able to patch that one particular area. So we just lifted this up, rotated it. We do need to get some spray glue on this insulation here that's falling down. So a little spray bomb from New Calgon, prepped. I've got some of these screws out of there. This is all convenient. Let me get this lifted up. Clears that up there. Again, it's ready so that we can get in here. We're going to reuse the TXVs. Myself personally, I would like to have seen them all replaced, but got the economizer just about completely unhooked. And we do have a new sensor for that also that we're going to be replacing. The mixed air temperature sensor. Here is no good. Just gently remove that. Got the machine blood out. Let's go ahead and get her hooked up to the tank. The tank's already about 590-ish area. I'm happy with that. We're not going for great grand and glorious here. Should have grabbed my other gauges there. The 557s, they actually read directly to the scale, but I can do it with my phone. So got that ready to go. Let's go ahead and start recovering. So we're pulling off liquid. See that doing quite a bit there too. It's kind of cool today, so it shouldn't need an ice bath hopefully. And it's only 5 pounds into a 50-pound cylinder. So our coils right here. Shipped with mighty care. As you can see, the box is in wonderful shape. You can see how they packed it. Way oversized box. And it doesn't appear that there's anything there that it actually hit. So definitely not impressed. But it's not as horrible as what it could be. That looks like it's the right one. So let's see if we can straighten that up a little bit. There we go. So we've got one that has different heads here. Robinair. I think I got this in my video description down in the bottom. All my tools I use is down there in the bottom of the... If you click on that, it'll take you to Amazon links. If it's something I can get on TrueTech Tools, you can get it at TrueTech Tools. I'll have links for that. Use promo code survival on TrueTech Tools. You get 8% off and help support the channel. Do what you like, but that's where the stuff's at. Like I said, we didn't get the full 5.5 pounds. Which, like I said, it's also leaking. So I would have liked to have caught it before it went into a negative. But we'll bleed off the top of it once we get done. It's settled for a little bit. I'm going to take this cross member here for the filters and pull that out and use the old one. Because the way they packaged this thing, it got smashed in there. I mean, you'd think that these were only a couple hundred bucks. But in reality, I don't know the exact price, but it was probably a couple thousand. Easy. Very easily. So let's go ahead and get straightening some more fins out. There we go. I just got done rechecking the history. I had recharged this circuit that was leaking originally. So I just went ahead and finished recovering the last bit of that refrigerant. Haven't measured it yet, but we're going to go ahead and get this thing removed here now. You've got to be careful when you're done doing this because it could have a little bit of flashback, it could be oil, and that sucks in line. Hopefully we got that much room on this other one. I could always cut it right here, too. So we got those all disconnected and made sure that when it pulls out like that, it usually stays thin enough there that it'll slide right into the next one, no problem. And really, you don't see a whole lot of carbon buildup in there. So we're good. Unbrazing, I usually don't get much carbon in there. See the same thing there. But we're going to go ahead and work on trying to get this thing loosened up that way we can yank it out of there. I don't really usually have a bunch of good things to say about the train, but they actually did have their screws out here where I needed them at, and I was able to get it loose. So look at those cookies. Ain't nothing but milk now. Looks like we can yank straight up on this thing. Let's go ahead and see if we can get it out of there. Maybe just do this without a helper. There we go. Look at that. Cookies and milk. Yes, sir. Be careful these wires down here. I definitely got some stuff going on with that. I took this apart here, probably shouldn't have. Well, that's something to do with. Just drag it on the rest of the way out. There's a metal rail down there I'm able to coast across. If you look at this here, this is lower than the back one. When you look at the original one, the back one is higher. And the back one is circuit one. We can follow this line right here, and I purge nitrogen through it. This is one. Then I covered the hole, made sure it came out of this one. So I know this is circuit one, that's circuit one. That's circuit two. That's the only one left. It's got to be circuit two. What I ended up doing is switch it then to circuit two, pushing through the suction, which we'll use while we're bracing. And I was able to verify that it's coming out on that one there. Now that we've got that already set up, we'll know for sure this one here, we're going to have to cut it, lower it, swedge it, and then put it back together. I don't know what the heck they were thinking. Who knows. I did count the coil loops and stuff, so it is pretty much the same coil. So hopefully, there are no mistakes here, but it's kind of hard to see how they could have made a mistake here. I don't know if they were trying to get better distribution or what they're doing, but I don't know. So we do have the nitrogen going through. I was able to shove that in all the way into the pocket. Tinker up a little bit. Heat up that piece going in first. That way it travels inside of the fitting. And then we'll pull the Daniflow into the pocket. Just a little bit here. That way it's ready to go. I need a little more in that I could use, but unfortunately it doesn't fit my torch right, so I have flashback. Definitely got to make sure this piece is back in there. Otherwise, it will fall on you. Where the hell did my drill go? Stay! Come on! We're wagging that way, buddy. There you go. How are we dealing with that drill? What I did is went ahead and bent that pipe out a little bit so we can get lower and get in there and get this cut so that I get the correct height that the factory should calculate it out. And then we'll swedge that and burn it in, then we'll shove it back together. Maybe just like like it should have been. Okay, got that marked. Think a little easier to cut it and then we'll form it back in. There we go. There we go. Looks a little nicer now. Now, since this is upside down, I'm just going to run my pliers in there to kind of slightly bend it back out, slash demerit. I really don't want chunks to fall down in there. And that tends to work pretty good. Needle nose, whatever. See that thing screw it in there and go at it. Shouldn't have to rotate it multiple times with this size. That's a nice thick wall piece of copper there. It didn't didn't screw up and split. Swedge kit there definitely comes in handy. I got a quarter inch which you can buy that and it goes way up big. You guys have seen that a million times but most of the work is all you need. There we go. That should fit up just perfect when it's all sudden done. Get the TXV back a little bit. Get that foam out of there. Should be able to burn it right in. Let's make sure we switch our nitrogen over to the other side too. So let's go ahead and get this one here first then we'll put it together. I like mine just a little oxidizing. It's a little softer. Less likely to punch through. It's not how they tell you to do it. They want you to go to the neutral flame usually. That's not how I do it. So we inspected the joint. Everything looks good on that. We're going to put that partially back together. There we go. And I got to be careful of my cord here. Whoops a daisy. These videos kill batteries. And so we got that one burned in. Same there and there. We'll let this vent continue to cool down then we'll wipe off the carbon. This crap would be inside the pipe if you weren't using nitrogen and then it's going to get caught in the TXV. Got it a little cleaned up now. I always like to pull deep into the pocket all the way around. You should be able to see that breeze come all the way on the inside all the way down to the bottom of the pocket. Obviously if you just do it on the outside it's going to crack but some people like to ring it which is kind of what I did here. A little bumpy on that one there. I should heat it up a little more but you try to go perfect on and then you're melting out your plastics. They're all here in the way and I don't want to do that. And then we've got foam over here so it's perfectly strong but sometimes it just comes down to the way you want it to look. Brazing skills is definitely something that they don't teach in school so it's something you're going to have to learn. They'll show you the basics how to set up your torch but like I said the way they showed me to set it up with a neutral flame I've yet to see that work right. I like a little bit oxidizing because it's softer flame because I had so many problems with brazing in the beginning years the first year what have you. That's why I bring it up. So like any of these videos everything I do here is because of things I had problems with and I just share what I've done to overcome those problems. Now we're ready to start with the filter dryers. Trane loves to do goofy stuff. So we've got 3 8's up here and then you've got 5 16's or something stupid order. I don't know it's a weird size so as you can see right there they end up going to a 163. We ordered the OEM dryers so now I've got to see if I can get one of these to fit back in there. They extended that 3 8's up there so what I might do is just drop the dryer down closer to it but I don't know why they went to something goofy like that. Normally you're not supposed to sweat these out but guess what? Probably going to have to sweat it out. I don't have anything extra to mess with here as far as extra room so let's see if we can get that to pull apart theoretically there shouldn't be any moisture around it anyway. Should be able to run her this way. We've got our depressor tools because we have those Cormax tools on there so that'll allow us to bleed out through the suction side, keep her all clean and nice and tight against everything. The thing I look at it as is if you're purging nitrogen through there you're not if I'm able to hold on to this thing like I am right now I didn't heat that desiccant up enough to release any moisture that that desiccant's inside there so spin it in between there. It's not that hot so let's make sure we get her dryer back in the right direction. There we go give that a second and then we'll get that back into place here. This thing does not like to be in the sun at all. She shuts down so I'll take the case off which really sucks another reason why I gotta get away from the phone. We're gonna go ahead and get that one out there. I'm gonna let this continue to cool down and get that one yanked out of there. It's the same thing as what I did there but you can see we got her changed a little bit of a mark here. Oh good it wipes off so it don't look like there we go. Looks a lot better now. So we got her in there. That one worked out great now. If they would have only done that with the other one it would have been perfect. Love to beat the guys head in with a rock that put this freaking junk ass die in there just by a good leak detector. You don't have to use this crap. This stuff is never instantaneous. You have to come back later. You have to have usually fairly dark. Die is such an idiotic thing. I've only had one and as before I had some of the detectors I got now that I had to actually do that on and it's just ridiculous. You get a good detector you don't need that. The stratus picked all these leaks up like it was nothing and the H10 would have been fine back in the day. So we got the one cut loose this year. I'm going to see about maybe swedging that and doing it the original quarter inch whatever it is 516 or what I don't know it's a weird size we don't use. So we're going to go old school because that is 516 so check the box and the only thing we got for that I believe is one of my ones here. So yeah, that's my first one and I had this one back in probably about 96 area probably 95 I don't remember exactly but yeah this thing still this day working good nothing wrong with it just isn't as quick as some of the other ones. But yeah we'll get our right size on there and we'll get her done up. So we kind of revert that by using the needle nose pliers again I didn't want the crap falling down in there and we'll get this thing bound it up go at it. Alright so I went ahead and just bent it so that it would be easier to braise so horizontal is going to be a lot easier that oil in there tells me that it was trapping oil probably because of the increase in the riser you're going from the 516 to 380 it's not a huge amount but generally it's not what you do when you're trying to get proper oil return in the liquid form it should just blast it on through but still I don't know it's just for what reason there's oil in there in that line when I blew through it to purge it it blew green gook all over the place so what I did is I just bent it up slightly it's not going to be permanent I'm going to put the weight of that on the other line there because when this gets hot it's going to soften and it's going to want to sag so that's the reason why I'm doing it like I'm doing it that oil wants to catch on fire which is awesome it'll burn off there in a second there it pulled right into that pocket perfect give that a second to cool and then we'll move her down to the bottom alright so on this here I think what I'm going to do is I'm just going to since that's all one solid piece I'm going to take her up to 3 8 that way I can stick the 3 8's in there and then just extend it up and it should do that do that without splitting it as long as we rotated a couple times there we go no splitting that'll allow us to run the 3 8's on down there the way they did that 3 8's they I don't know it was a corn ball so like I said a lot of times I get away with just rounding the burrs back out I mean you're all going to stretch the copper anyway in there and that way we can make it flow down one thing crappy about these hillmore type benders like this you can split it real easily right there if you don't rotate it so that's only down side spin swedge didn't do that this one kind of does so you can see where it's right there that didn't rotate it enough so cut her off again just a hassle you wouldn't think you'd be splitting 3 8's unless you want to warm it up a little bit if you warm it up a little bit you can even do quarter no problem any of it you just warm it up a little bit it does great we'll show you here just put a little heat there on the side of it and then we'll stretch it don't even have to get a cherry red or not like that you can see the color change a little bit there you go now let's go in there and hit it shouldn't have a problem at all when you go around no backing up or nothing perfect no bends or no splits no nothing so now we can match that up which we fit right into and fit down into the one that we just made look at that look at them chocolate chip cookies yeah not not real friendly here you're going to burn up stuff you ain't careful they're barely holding it steady and getting things in there they were not thinking a damn bit when they did this cut all the way around looks like we pulled all the way down into it covered up that little piece where it burned it a little bit and looks like we got at least a quarter of an inch or at least a three sixteenths of an inch into the pocket on all edge corners if not better we already did that checker well we're going to pull vacuum and I'm going to go run another call at another location so I went ahead and back that out we're going to do a pressure test on it real quick spray all our fittings we'll do that to each one of these circuits not seeing anything on any of those so there's that there's that now when I get covered up I ain't worried about it just to you there it looks really good alright so I had to run another call and went ahead and put both hoses on both systems I've got the valve core depressor on there got my high sides closed I'm going to put my micro engage on there see where I'm at but what I'll do is I'll end up leave my hoses right up to it and then start pumping the refrigerant in that way I didn't have all the extra fittings and stuff to leak you can get away with that so anyhow that's where we're at so we're ready to get started here here are all my gauges here which they are totally out of whack 11 inches and 7 inches as you can see there's green dye in there you can see it in my gauges I'm not going to run that crap through my nice 557s kind of weird liquids blue boys thought of that as being the non-liquid side so what we're going to do is we'll go ahead and bleed up to the very end of the fitting and then we'll reattach it right on to the liquid there and that way we've got all the air out and then when I get it up to here literally we'll bleed it I ain't going to let the straighter depressor hit it alright so we're bled up to there and I got any air out of there let's go ahead and get this thing zeroed out and then we'll start dumping it in we've got everything hooked up we've got the top on I had a whirly bird around me so we've got some things done made sure that we're hooking on to the actual liquid side even though the gas even though the discharge side sometimes just as easy even though in theory your subcooling wouldn't be accurate but you could have a little drop through the coil they really don't want me on the inside because they did the floors over in the gymnasium area so we're going to jump it out here the fan is direct drive blower so there's no belts or anything like that the filters are clean I just changed those two months ago we're going to go ahead and get it running and see how it goes now we did reuse the refrigerant and I hate doing that it was decided that we should try to reuse it so I reused it when I had to flip it upside down to get the last bit of liquid out of it brown stuff comes out which is probably dirty oil from my recovery from long ago which I've never been a fan of reusing refrigerant if you want to play you got to pay that's my theory you're going to put that much money into a coil you should put a brand new refrigerant in it that's just the way I feel about it but so we've got it marked we got it the new coil marked on the inside there let's go ahead and kick it on and see what it does well it's five o'clock so that extra extra calls putting me behind now still waiting for second stage to kick on I have a bad well it did kick on finally it had a heck of a delay must be built into it so it's not running though is it the new gauges there they've got it they're looking decent are we on 410a on that nope it's r290 still so let's switch that over to 410a so we're running a 95 degree condenser and an 86 degree so that don't make sense okay so we're running a 102 degree condenser and a 46 degree evaporator 40 40 degree super heat if everything's accurate there which who knows still not seeing that other compressor run I don't know what's going on with that that's kind of disturbing so they're both working that's cold that's cold so one of these gauges aren't aren't working right something's wrong here we got some gauges closed what's going on here so it took my hoses off normally never stick them on the ground like that and it shows that pressure there's nothing in there oh yeah okay so now they're closed nothing so let's see if we can zero this thing out I don't know what in the world's going on with this this is this is screwy I don't know if they gave up the ghost or what yep a little bit of battery gets lost or loose and then it really loses itself this is why I didn't like these old ones okay now we're a little lower that's better go zero I trust you now oh blanked out there you go we've got it door off obviously head pressure can be high so we're running 415 and 440 135 135 so it's working at least reading now which is nice see what we got going on here now it does with the door on looking better now we're running 103 and 102 on the head pressure and 45 and 45 on the suction so they look pretty good there subcoilings running 9 on the 1 18 on the other super heat 16 on the 1 41 on the other and that probe I think I've got going bad it's constantly cutting out and losing connection yeah it's reading 86 degrees I don't seem accurate see if we can get that corrected it seems like they might be backwards they tend to do that sometimes that's the blue see it that's screwed up see it lost contact again that's the lower one that's the one that should be reading like that but it's not subcoilings looks to be right subcoilings not bad here 19 there it kind of scares me if it's going to start swinging yank the batteries out of it put it back in now we've got 11 subcoilings 22 super heat 16 super heat 19 degrees subcoilings so we're pretty much running about the same on both of them other than subcoilings being a little higher on one over the other I'm not horribly concerned about that super heat 16 and 22 I mean that's I'm happy with that we're not flooding back we're not super high tells me that the coil is feeding like it should see what we got going on in here see if we can yeah we're sweating good yep starting to sweat on both of them good good yep nothing's going to vibrate into each other make sure that's good I got that new sensor back there for the economizer let's take a look at the economizer see if it's blinking any funky codes hopefully it's not that was one of the other problems it had got some blanks there being constant blinking is probably okay I got to look at it here so we removed a little bit of refrigerant out of the one that had the high subcoilings now we're averaging right around the 9 area on subcoilings which is exactly what we got over here super heats running still 21-22 17 here so we're looking really good pressures are pretty darn close 325-330 129-133 so it was just a slight bit overcharged from what I could see there which I had to switch the bottles around and you can lose your placement I'm not really happy about it still moving but 410A has always been really goofball like that but it's been holding pretty steady now it's not climbing and dropping like it usually would which is usually a sign that I've always seen in the past overcharged it just basically with a micro channel coil that it's got that those just have no extra room for anything in it but like I said we got everything back together got this little rubber thing up here to help make it seal between the coil and the top in there but we're holding pretty steady now I mean it's swinging a little bit but that's why I don't like reusing the refrigerant alright so I took a better look at the controller there I misread it blank versus the other type of continuous blank either way the blanking's definition ended up being that it wasn't able to economize at this particular time if you guys enjoyed the video and you want to see more like it give it a thumbs up check me out on Instagram until next time guys have a great weekend until next time have a great week and until next time have a great week later