 Bonjour et bienvenue, this is La Modeliste and welcome back again to my channel. Today's tutorial is special because friends of mine got married and I challenged myself to make a honeymoon dress for the bride as my wedding gift. And they will also celebrate their sixth year anniversary and I want to give her something special and something that she will remember on their honeymoon. So get your materials ready and let's dive into the pattern making process of my friend's dress. To start off, I will trace my friend's bodice on my pattern weaver. And as you can see, I did not trace the back guard as it is not necessary for this design. Next, I used my compass to draw in the bus radius. To locate the bus radius, check out the chart I've prepared in the description box. Next, I will relocate the shoulder bus start to the side seam, an inch below from the bus line. Next, I'm going to apply the empire contour for the front bodice. By the way, if you're new to my channel, I have a separate tutorial for the empire waist contour and make it sure to check it out. Next, from the underarm side seam, I'm going to mark in 4.7 inch or 1.27 centimeters. From the waist at side seam, I'm going to mark in 6.7 inch or 2 centimeters to decrease the waist measurement and connect both marks with a straight line while the side seam dart is closed. And cut off this excess from the pattern. Next, from the under bust, draw a horizontal line towards the side seam like so. From center front, mark in 1.7 inch or 0.3 centimeter. From this mark, square in a line blending towards the waist. And this will be the new center front. Next, from the bust line, mark in 6.8 of an inch or 2 centimeters touching the new center front. And again, from the under bust, draw in your desired under bust design towards the mark at center front. Next, from new center front at bust line, mark in 4.8 of an inch or 1.27 centimeters. And from the bust line at side seam, mark in 1 inch or 2.54 centimeters. And from the previous dart at bust radius, mark up 4.8 of an inch or 1.27 centimeters. And connect these three marks, creating a triangular shape for the neckline. Next, I'm going to draw in my neckline design freehand. When drawing the design freehand, it is best to practice it first on a different paper, and once you've achieved your desired design, apply it on the final draft. Next, I'm going to apply Contour's guideline number 1 and number 3 for the neckline. After applying the contours for the neckline, I will redraw and blend in the lines. So if you're not familiar with contouring principles, I have a separate tutorial so better check it out on my channel. Now that I have completed my drafts for the front bodice, it is time to cut each pieces separately. Next, I'm going to combine the two lower panels together. After that, I'm going to mark in the important notches to guide me for sewing. Next, I'm going to grab the back bodice to draft the back pattern. I will place the front pattern number 3 exactly on the side seam at bustline, and mark for the back pattern reference. Next, from the side seam, I will mark in 4-4-8 inches until the bustline, and from the mark at side seam, I will square in across a horizontal line. And this is the back pattern. Next, I will divide the back pattern in three sections vertically, like so. And from these marks, I will square in the slash lines. And I will slash the lines carefully. Next, get a piece of paper and place in the back pattern. Spread the pattern equally according to your liking and tape it in place. And by the way, I've used 4-8 of an inch of sewing allowance all around for the back pattern. So these are all the pattern pieces with sewing allowances. For pattern number 1, I've used 2-8 of an inch all around. And for patterns number 2 and number 3, I've used 2-8 of an inch and 4-8 of an inch all around. For pattern number 4, I've marked up 6-8 of an inch from the waist for the loop placement. So the waist of my friend is 26 inches, but for the circle skirt, I wanted it to have gathers on the waist since at the hem, I will put a second tier. So instead of calculating the circle skirt from her original waist, I will multiply her waist by 2 and that is equals to 52 inches. And I will use the doubled waist measurement to calculate her half circle skirt. So this is the half circle skirt pattern from my calculations. Next, I'm going to fold it in half and cut it on the center making 2 pieces. One piece for the back and one piece for the front. So at the waist, it will be gathered, it is unfold at the center back, also unfold at the center front and there are side seams where we will connect both skirts together. For the front skirt, while putting in the sewing allowances, I've decided to put inseam pockets for utility purposes. To learn more about inseam pockets, I have a separate tutorial and make sure to check it out on my channel. For the back skirt, I will mark down 1 inch or 2.54 centimeters from the waist. This is for the elastic or garter casing. And duplicate the casing on a new paper plus the sewing allowance from the back skirt. Anyway guys, I hope this pattern making tutorial give you enough tips on how to create your own honeymoon dress patterns and make it sure to stay tuned for the sewing part of this tutorial where I will demonstrate on how to put all of the pieces together. And if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to comment down below and I will reply as soon as possible. And if you're not subscribed yet to my youtube channel La Modeles, make sure to hit that subscribe button and if you like this video, give it a huge thumbs up. And I will see you guys again on the part 2 of the honeymoon dress tutorial.