 Hey everybody, welcome back today to Retro Tech. I have a special CRT that Practically should be in a museum at this point. I mean if I think about it this one is from 1984 Which is one year younger than I am so this might be one of the oldest CRTs I work on this year and today, of course, I'm talking about the Commodore 1702 CRT monitor. Now this was one of the earliest progressions into S-video and higher quality video and especially for analog and especially for it being the early 80s Now if you've watched me before you've seen me work on a 1701 Commodore monitor that belonged to my friend try from my life in gaming and This time we're gonna go even further and fully service this unit and get into some of the hardware It's see why maybe this was a little bit more special than others And also I want you to notice if you have seen a 1701 before this one looks identical to the 1701 on the outside However, the internal hardware has been updated and it is different from that 1701 and I found that to be quite interesting So again today, we'll be fully servicing it getting into the calibrations to cleaning it up make it look just wonderful And so thanks for joining me and without any more introduction. Let's go ahead now and get into the repair for the Commodore 1702 video monitor featuring Commodore video To get things started today, we're going to disassemble the CRT I recommend that you first remove the small front plate covering the buttons on the front And then you can remove the screws that are behind there Now you should only need a phillips head screwdriver for this procedure But you want to make sure that you get every screw on the back and on the front You might accidentally miss one next to the input board on the back So make sure you remove those and the shell should simply slip right off Now the reason you want to remove the front screws is so that you'll easily Be able to remove your boards and chassis when you're ready to remove those on the first inspection of things internally We'll see a layer of dust on all the components and I've mentioned this before But just in case you're new to the channel We do get a increase in heat if we leave that dust on top of those components And these capacitors are almost 40 years old So we'll definitely want to get rid of that dust and we will be changing all these capacitors on the circuit boards So after a close inspection of the internal components on the Commodore monitors I noticed that Commodore actually doesn't make any of the internal components or parts that they use on their monitors These seem to be designed specifically by JVC and built by JVC And they also incorporate a lot of Hitachi parts So the first part I want to look at is the CRT tube now this is a shadow mass tube And this is made by Hitachi The other parts that are inside that are marked are the flyback transformer, which was made Specifically by JVC again You'll see on the side of it and it's got model numbers that associate with other JVC televisions and JVC monitors in the 80s And then a lot of the PCBs internally are all stamped with a JVC logo And that is the victor company of japan in case you didn't know what JVC stood for so internally you've got a mix of JVC and Hitachi hardware Everything is pretty much disconnected. The only two things we need to worry about are This actually three things we got the anode cap We've got the neck board And then we have the degausing cable down in this area Which i'll go ahead and disconnect for you first And that's just this connection right here. So Disconnect that first And now i'm going to discharge it now. I don't recommend you discharge it like this if you don't know what you're doing Because this is um kind of the you know trained pro way to discharge tubes, but If you're not familiar with it And not experienced i'd recommend not doing it. So i'm taking that And then i'm going to just tap it against the frame here And there's no electricity coming from it And i can even go back Tap that tube and do that So it looks like this has been serviced or something before because there's a lot of scratches up here at the tube backing We're going to start the chassis here So we're going to do is i'm going to go through and make my capacitor kit and since i don't have A manual for this i'm going to go through on this board And record each cap value and then its location based on what it says next to the cap and that way We can recap everything on here because again these caps are from 1984 This is our power block over here So we're going to recap it too. It's just got one large filter cap And then a couple of other caps and then we'll also recap these two On the back of the neck board and we'll check for any solder that may need reflowing Everything else looks to be in good shape as far as any other components I'm going to begin by cleaning off the majority of the board and as i explained earlier I'm going to go through and design a specific capacitor kit for This monitor and it's going to include all the electrolytic capacitors on the boards that we went over prior But as I do that i'm going to also explain some of the other hardware I found to be quite interesting and unique on this chassis and this monitor But before we get into the details on the hardware I want to show you some procedures to start working on this main board First you will we're going to remove this small piece of shielding that is next to the heat sink Right next to your main power block that will give you a little bit of space to access some of the Capacitors that are under there without actually removing these boards from the frame First things I like to start off with is our neck board here There's only a couple of capacitors on there and to remove the capacitors I'm going to be using my hacko FR301 de-soldering tool Now if you do have a nice soldering iron you can use solder wick or other processes to get rid of these capacitors This is a nice thick board. So it's very durable As long as you don't use too much heat or apply the heat too long one more tip when you're using your hacko FR301 Make sure the nozzle is clean and that your filter is nice and clean also that way You can get good air flow through your pump and it will extract that old solder a lot cleaner and quicker without needing to sit there and overheat the contacts too long As you start to remove your capacitors, it's a good idea to inspect them visually For any signs that electrolytic fluid has leaked out of the base of the capacitor This can tell you whether you had too much heat in a certain area or whether you should upgrade a part Now again, we're going to upgrade every part. We're not going to stick with this 85 degrees celsius rating That these current capacitors have we're actually going to increase that rating up to 105 degrees celsius And that will give us a much more stable capacitor that also will last At least two to three times longer than the originally designed capacitors That are in the monitor as we speak and as this recap job continues I will talk to you a little bit more in detail about our replacement capacitors that we will be using today Now primarily in my business, we use mauser.com to order replacement electrolytic capacitors There are many other suppliers that might be better for your region or that you may have a relationship with that's perfectly fine As long as they provide correct values for voltage and Micro farads do pay attention though because sometimes these older chassis do contain one or two bipolar Capacitors which you can request in your order sheet or when you're hunting for capacitors at your supplier's website Please note that you might need to check that you get one or two bipolar capacitors again Pay very close attention to your chassis to see if there's any of those noted And as I upgrade our capacitors the ones we're going to be using today are going to be nichicon brand This is one of the top I'd say three or four brands other brands. You could try out our rubicon I've had very good success with rubicon replacement capacitors And again, we're going to jump up to the 105 degree Celsius rating and then we're going to maybe jump up a little bit on some of the voltage for a couple capacitors If we need to consolidate an order Where we don't want to order just one specific say 16 volt 10 micro farad capacitor where we can order 25 volt micro farad capacitors if we have to use them in other places on the board There are plenty of other factors that you can consider when choosing a replacement capacitor For example, you may need to determine what size your capacitor will need to be if it needs to fit in a tight spot Sometimes your capacitors will be Significantly smaller than the ones you are replacing They may have compacted a lot of the size and the design needed To get the same performance or maybe even better performance than old technology from the 1980s And so this you will often run into Capacitors that are a lot smaller in size than the one you may be replacing So when you pick out a capacitor and the size is important just try to make sure not to order something that is larger Than the one you are replacing You want to try to make sure that the capacitor is always the same size or maybe even a little bit smaller As our restoration continues, I want to show you some of the more unique hardware inside the Commodore video monitor Let's take a look at some of the main chips on the board that are Producing and driving our video signal onto our screen First there's the tachi ha 11247. This is our tv chroma signal processor This is going to be mostly processing and filtering our chroma video signals And again, it's going to function as a chroma amp with a subcarrier playback and then a chrominance demodulation feature The next chip we want to take a look at is the hitachi ha 11244 Also known as our tv synchronus processor This is going to give us our vertical and horizontal sync processing According to the data sheets the functions of this chip include horizontal a fc horizontal oscillator x radiation protector vertical oscillator and vertical drivers Our last and final chip is an ha 11401 and this is a tv video amplifier This is a very common chip in the 1980s. It includes a video buffer video tone control contrast control sync separator noise canceler pedestal clamp and blanking features This type of chip would have been in many displays in the 1980s that would have been glomerated with hitachi or jvc on their production Well, that's a whole lot of technical information I hope I didn't bore you to sleep or run you off the video, but I thought it would be Maybe a little bit beneficial to Go into some of the hardware and give you a little bit more details on what's actually going on inside the crt So enough of all that let's go ahead now and hook up a super nintendo and send a video signal in and see how it looks First on our composite video If you are curious or interested in knowing what the screen looked like Before I recapped it and did any adjustment Please go watch the linked video in the description. That is the unboxing of this video monitor originally So first let's run a test and see how it looks and then walk through some of the adjustments that you can make for calibration t02 does not have any type of on Screen display or service menu at all that means that all your adjustments are going to need to be done manually Either by potentiometers on the front of the monitor or potentiometers in the back of the monitor which these potentiometers control most of the Geometry functions for example, we've got vertical linearity vertical height and vertical centerness Adjusted by these three potentiometers right here. Then if you look over to the other side You've got a couple more potentiometers. These don't actually Adjust your geometry. This is going to be more of your color sub tent Sub color and then a sub brightness But that's where the majority of those adjustments seem to be done and once all those adjustments are complete It's time to reassemble your crt. This one's pretty easy to reassemble Just remember to pull the power cable through the little slot towards the bottom of the back And go through and reinstall all your phillips head screws Now it's finally time to test the s video feature of this monitor or as komador put it komador video So here's our komador video input Chroma to the right and luma to the left Again the signal selection That's to switch it to the front And that's to switch it to the rear The monitor is in Commodore video mode And there's one little issue I want to show you it really just has to do with The switch the proprietary switch That switches from the front composite inputs to the back inputs If I push the switch too far over towards the komador video setting Sometimes there the chroma will go out So the switch is just a little fidgety, but if I push the switch back just slightly To where it's about 90 percent over Then It works fine and stays in the good video mode And then you just switch it back to the front mode To get composite That's just definitely something if you have a problem switching to check that switch out Now let's use the 240p test suite to go in and check The finished result of our restored komador monitor I will put a link in the description of this video for the 240p test suite download It is an Invaluable tool that you need to be able to calibrate And check the calibration of any monitor that you may own Our screen looks wonderful, especially in our new komador video mode We have a wonderful picture and I just can't say enough about the finished product came out very nicely Commodore video mode represents one of the earliest advances in Picture quality improvement for crts in north america during this time period the vast majority of home displays would have only supported RF and sometimes just composite mono audio So the jump to s video and komador video Was a big step in getting a brighter and more sharp picture for 240p and 480i analog video content Well, hopefully you enjoyed this repair as much as I did I sure am glad to see the final product and how wonderful it looks now But if you enjoyed today's video, please make sure you leave a like below And if you have any questions or comments about the repair, please leave that below Also, thank you for joining me and I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content