 Hi what's up you guys, this is your girl, Sewit with Brett and welcome back again to my YouTube channel. So today, we are going to learn two ways on how to make extended caps leaves. In this tutorial, I'm going to demonstrate two different ways on how to draft extended caps leaves and how to sew it properly. In a way, to learn how to create extended caps leaves, make it sure to continue on watching this tutorial to see the full creative process. Here are the tools and the materials that I'll be using for this tutorial. Fabric, pattern papers, fashion rulers, masking tape. We crucially need tapes for this one. Fabric and paper scissors, flex ruler, pencil and fabric markers, sleeve block or sloper. I'll be using a sleeve block without an elbow dart, dress form and of course my sewing machine. To start off our pattern, let's first trace our sleeve block on a pattern paper. Don't forget to consider the center line or the grain line. We will need this for the whole pattern drafting process and of course the elbow line. Okay so now that we have traced our sleeve block, let's start the design for our pattern. From the cap of the sleeve, mark down 1-8 inches or 3.1 cm and mark this measurement. Go and back to the center line using a flex ruler. Measure out 4 inches or 10 cm at the back of the sleeve like this one. Don't forget to follow the curve of the cap and mark the measurement. Next, let's do the same thing for the front part of the sleeve and mark the measurement. Okay, now let's continue on marking down 1-8 inches or 3.1 cm from the cap, like this one. As you guys can see, we have a new curve line from the cap of the sleeve. Next, mark the half of the 4 inches or 10 cm and mark again the half. These lines represent the slash lines. This curve line right here will turn into a panel as we go along. From the center line, slash through not until 1-8 inches or 3.1 cm mark. Then, slash through the curve line at the back part and at the front part but do not cut through, like this one. Next, carefully cut the slash lines again, do not cut through, there you go. Now that we are done with the slashing situation, let's move on to the crucial part, the spreading. We will now turn this curve line into a panel by spreading the slash lines. Cut another piece of paper and we will attach here the cap of the sleeve. From the corner of the new cap of the sleeve, mark up 4 inches or 10 cm. This will be the guide measurement for the spreading. Next, carefully spread the slash lines vertically touching the 4 inches or 10 cm guide measurement. Using our masking tape, tape to secure the slash lines. Next, blend the lines neatly and check the width of the panel which is 1-8 inches or 3.1 cm. By the way, the lower part of the panel should also touch the new cap of the sleeve. Measure the in-between space of this part because we will use this measurement for the front panel as back and front panels should be identical in measurements. Now that we have completed the back part of the panel, let's move on to the front part. The procedure is the same as the back panel, so rewind if you must and pay attention all the time. Next, I will cut through the center line. From here, I will slash across both the back and front parts of the sleeve at the elbow line, but I will not cut through. Next, let's get another piece of paper. On this paper, I will simply draw a vertical line as a guideline. Next, I will place my sleeve at the center directly at the vertical line and tape to secure. I will spread the sleeve 1.5 inches or 3.8 cm on both sides from the guideline at the new cap of the sleeve, like this one. Same time, the slashed elbow line will elevate or spread up in about few inches or centimeters. Next, I will draw a horizontal line connecting the cap of the sleeve. Next, from the cap of the sleeve at the center line, I will mark up 1.5 inches or 3.8 cm. And this will be the official cap of the sleeve. Using your curve ruler, re-draw the cap of the sleeve, like this one. So next, using the flex ruler, measure the cap to make it sure that it is the same measurement with the front and the back panels. If the cap measurement is too much, you can adjust the measurements of the panels. So now, we have completed the drafting part and we can now move on to the sewing part. In here, I already put my sewing allowances. Here, on the cap part of the sleeves, I've used 2.8 inch or 0.6 cm. And the rest, I've used 4.8 inch or 1.2 cm. So now, I am going to cut this pattern on my actual fabric. Before removing the pattern from the fabric, pin the darts of the sleeve and mark for sewing references. The first part that we will sew are the panels. Place the panels right side to right side together and pin and place. Now, I will sew the panels together by 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 cm. After that, I will press the seam open. Next, align the seam to the center line notch at the cap and pin the rest. Also, don't forget to pin the dart references. First, I will sew at the first dart of the sleeve, continuing to the cap and ending at the other side of the sleeve where the other dart is located. I used 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 cm. of sewing allowance. Next, I will give the cap a press and as you guys can see, the shape is almost there. Next, let's connect the underseams together and we are done with the sewing part. Et voila! So here you go guys, this is the Crescent Moon Shape Extended Cap sleeve. And as you guys can see, I connected the sleeves on the bodice so that you can see how it looks like on an actual garment. I love the sleeves and it's one of the best sleeve techniques that I really love to do. It looks neat, sharp, and tailored. This sleeve can be used for gowns, blazers, and so much more. Anyway guys, I hope this tutorial gave you enough tips on how to make extended cap. I also hope this tutorial can help you with your upcoming sewing projects. Also, give me your suggestions for my upcoming tutorials and I will make it sure to make it possible. Comment down below, you guys. And if you are not subscribed yet to my YouTube channel SewItWithBrit, make it sure to hit that subscribe button and if you like this video, give it a huge thumbs up and I will see you guys on the part 2 of the extended cap sleeves. And thank you very much for watching. Appianto!