 Seven, six, five, four, three, two, one, go. You're never back with me again. What's up, guys? Welcome back to the vlog. Today, I'm super excited to bring you a video that's not just a haircut. I know sometimes you guys like seeing a full haircut, but I really like kind of dissecting technique and showing you guys different ways to do things. So today, what we're gonna do is we're gonna go over a graduated bob, but the cool thing about this is gonna be an A-line bob, and I'm gonna cut it two different ways. I'm gonna cut one side over directing everything back to the center, and then the other side, I'm gonna use a traveling guide to show you guys the difference between over directing too far, creating that dog ear look that no one likes to see, and then also over directing just slightly back to the previous section with a traveling guide and show you guys the difference. You can cut graduated bob either way. It doesn't make it wrong. I think the great thing about this video is it's gonna help you understand what you're doing, why you're doing it, and the result that you're gonna get at the end. So hope you guys like this video. Let me know in the comments below. Happy to be back. Let's get started with our step-by-step. Here we go. All right, guys, so for today's experiment, what we're gonna do is we're gonna part the head straight down the center, and then straight down center back. The reason I'm gonna do that is because I'm separating both sides. I'm gonna cut one side one way, and I'm gonna cut the other side a different way. So we're gonna start off by taking that vertical line down center back, then we're gonna go horizontal across the back down to directly behind the ear. So a nice horizontal line, maybe a slight diagonal forward, but not too much, and then we're gonna clip it off. I wanna start by creating a solid baseline in the back. So I'm gonna use my 339 comb from YS Park to hold the hair using the wide teeth of the comb, so I'm not pulling it out of its natural fall, but just holding it still while I cut it. And then I go through with my Mizetani Pen Slim Scissor. You can see how skinny that blade is. It's also a nano-powder metal scissor, so it grips the hair really well, cuts really great lines. One of my new favorite scissors that we have on freesaneducation.com. So now I'm gonna give a little saturation to the hair. I never want the hair to really dry up. As I'm going through and I'm cutting the hair, if the hair starts to dry, the tension just gets different. The density is different, so I just wanna keep that nice and consistent. So go through, I show you guys exactly how we're gonna hold the hair. We're gonna start on the left-hand side, everything's gonna be over-directed directly over our very first initial section. So what I'm cutting now is the guide that's gonna stay stationary through this entire left side of the haircut, and I'm gonna over-direct everything over there. What I wanted to really just show you guys in this haircut is the fact that if you over-direct things too far and you keep over-directing them, a lot of weight gets built up. And I have a lot of questions on this channel about the dog ear look or the heaviness behind the ear, how do you make that go away? Well, this is the video for you guys. I'm gonna show you exactly how to do that and help you understand why it happens. So anytime that you're over-directing, my rule of thumb for over-direction in hair is to make sure I don't go around too many corners. The way I break down the corners on the head is to really look at it like a clock. So if center back is six o'clock, behind the ear is nine o'clock, and then the front of the head is 12 o'clock. And if you look at that, if you think of those numbers as corners, I would never take anything past nine o'clock and bring it all the way back to center back, which is six o'clock, because I'm going around too many corners. So I'm safe at seven, I'm safe at eight, bringing that back over-directing it back to the center back portion. But then once I get to that nine o'clock point, that's as far as I'll push it before it starts to get way too heavy. Somebody said to me a long time ago in a haircutting class, if you took a baseball and you try to throw the best curveball you could throw out the door and around a corner, it wouldn't make it around the corner because gravity would pull it down. And that's really what we're working with, guys. If you think about it, gravity is pulling this hair down. So if we try to swing the hair around too many of those corners, it's just gonna fall flat, it's gonna fall heavy, and then you're gonna end up with that dog ear effect as your end result, which is fine, but if you don't know what to do with all that extra weight, then you're not gonna know what to do with the haircut at the end, and then your guest is gonna leave with extra heavy hair that they don't know what to do with either. So just make sure don't over-direct too far. You can see right now I'm at that 11 o'clock position with the head, and I'm bringing that hair all the way back to six o'clock so it's just way, way too heavy when it swings around. Doesn't make it wrong, just makes it different, makes it not manageable, so we're gonna have to go in in a dry cut and remove some of that weight. Why would we do that if we can do it all at the same time? So now we're gonna work on the opposite side. You can see how much length that pushes forward. I'm gonna grab a guide from my left side to start off on the right side. The right side now we're gonna be working with a traveling guide, so I'm gonna take a nice vertical section. Every section I've been taking throughout this entire haircut is a see-through section, about a half inch wide, and I just work. The only difference I'm working on this side is that my fingers are pointing down. I always wanna be combing the new hair towards my guideline. I talk about this in pretty much every video, so you wanna be combing the new hair into the guide. If you take the guide and you comb it into the new hair, you move your guide and you end up cutting the hair at a length that you didn't want. So now we're gonna work through the right side, taking those half inch sections, bringing it over to the previous, not six o'clock. So we go, when we move to seven o'clock, we bring that back to six. When we move to eight o'clock, we bring that back to seven. So it's a traveling guide throughout the back. It's gonna give us a nice solid base. It's gonna give us a very similar look in the back as if we were to over direct it all backwards, but it's gonna be much softer around the corner. Hardest part about this point in the haircut is just staying consistent. Obviously, keeping a stationary guide will definitely leave you a more consistent haircut because you're just bringing it to one place. When you start traveling with a guide, it gets a little bit more difficult. So just really stay focused on how you comb the hair, where your hand position is, and just make sure that you're exactly where you wanna be before you cut the hair. So now once I got to that nine o'clock position, everything is gonna come straight back to me. So now I'm over directing, but there's no more corners. So I don't have to worry about that extra weight that's gonna happen in the front because the head stays pretty flat until you get to the temple area a little bit past that and it starts to curve at the forehead. So I work all the way down the line over directing everything back to a stationary guide now and I don't end up with those heavy dog ear effect on the haircut. You can see just filing through, even though I'm working with a stationary guide, I don't pull everything back. There's no condensed cutting happening. I could bring everything back, but the problem with that is you don't get a clean line with your haircut. So I love taking those small sections, working my way through, slow and steady wins the race, no reason to rush yourself through the haircut. And you can see I get the same type of angle. It's not as long because we're not doing as much over direction, but it's a much softer feel to the haircut without that dog ear effect that we talked about. So now we're gonna go through with the blow-dry. I'm using my Ergo paddle brush, also the Dyson blow-dryer. I have a full review of that blow-dryer on the channel if you wanna check it out. The one thing I would say to you guys, it's definitely an expensive blow-dryer. It blow-dries hair, very similar to other blow-dryers, but I do really like this blow-dryer. I would also say to you, buy great scissors before you spend $400 on a blow-dryer. I would say it's the last thing that you need to spend that much money on it because I don't know if it makes that much of a difference, but it is a cool tool to have. I am really enjoying using it. Also using the Vibra straight iron, it's one of my favorite flat irons. I have it available on freeslawneducation.com. It vibrates, which allows less friction as it's going over the hair, so it creates less damage and also just has a nice, smooth feel to the Passover on the hair. So definitely love that iron. I go through and I iron the hair exactly the way I cut it so you can see that same type of over-direction following the round of the head gives me a nice, smooth outcome on the look. I'm not gonna go through and dry cut this haircut, but I wanted you guys to see the end result the way that it is. We can obviously go through and do dry detail work later on, but this is the comparison of each side. Hope you guys like this video. Definitely let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. All right, guys, like always. If you like this video, then make sure you hit the like button below. Also, subscribe to the channel. If you haven't done that already, I got a lot more videos to come. We're getting to the end of the year and I'm super excited for next year. I have a ton of things coming that are in the works that I think you guys are gonna love. Thank you guys for the support. If you're looking for some more tools, I have an awesome special going on right now at freesaloneducation.com. You can get scissors, combs, clips, mannequin heads, tripods, all of that stuff is for sale on freesaloneducation.com. Appreciate the support from you guys as always. Have an awesome day and I'll see you guys on the next video. Thanks.