 Hey everybody welcome back today we're still working on our Sony PVM-20L5 that is a professional video monitor in the CRT format made by Sony. This particular one was made back in 2002 and up to this point we've gotten our shell off and then we were also able to safely disassemble and remove the deflection board from our monitor but today we're going to need to get in here and break it down even further. We're going to go ahead and clean a lot of the other circuit boards as well as this board the neck board. We're going to clean the back of the tube up and then I've also got a little cleaning kit here that I'll show you this is very cheap from Amazon but it's just got some ESD brushes which are safe to work on a PCB like this in the past you've seen me use you know just some non-conductive paint brushes before but that was on older monitors that had older circuit boards these are double-sided boards with smaller components so there's a little bit more risk of some kind of static electricity damaging something on these boards so just to be safe I will be using this kit today and so now let's just go ahead we're going to take and pull our cameras in real close and we'll start tearing this thing down and get going with our cleaning process. All right we're going to work our way from this side over meaning the next piece I'm going to remove is just this bracket this plastic bracket there's a daughter board to the D board on the back side so I'll leave this one connector from that board to this board and then the other cords will actually just come right on out of these holders here on the side this is just some cable management just try to make sure that you remember where these cables go and where they came from and that way you could put it back together easily otherwise you'll confuse yourself if you don't at least take some pictures of what the setup is in here beforehand and that way when you're putting it back together you can double check with your original photos and see that you've done the right disassembly and reassembly for especially for a lot of these cables and it should just fit in one spot only on the boards but just to be safe so once we've got every cable disconnected should just be a little screw right here on this side and this plastic surprisingly on this monitor is in great condition normally this could be quite brittle from the heat an environment that these monitors are used to being in the high heat tends to make these plastic parts just extremely brittle you know you want to be careful too because you've got an epoxied wedge here behind it so it's kind of going to work it around just a little bit to work it off of there so what's happening is the back side of this right here was getting caught on our rubber pad but that's the line nose up so we can get this out of the way this is our neck port is right here and if you look right in here where my finger is there's a plastic holder in here and this one has snapped this one this bracket always falls apart I have never seen it last so if you get in here and just like that this plastic pieces are broken don't worry about it it's not structurally important the monitor will work fine without it but just note that so rather than attempting to unscrew that some more let's see if we can get our neck port off yeah see this this arm on this side is broken also just leaves this one side and I'm sure that if the other two are broken of course it's not broken okay so let's go ahead and get our screwdriver so again we're coming in kind of over the top of this section and then on this ring that's closest to the neck board we'll just loosen it up there it's loose and what should happen so there we go it's like I said it's broken right there so don't concern yourself if this actually does fall apart again this is very common it's just a kind of an extra thing they added later on but don't damage anything past this that all is important because that's your convergence and other yoke ring adjustments so just to keep the balance of the tube the same I'm just going to tighten that right back on there and now we can get this neck board out of the way so just disconnect the connections from where the wires are coming in and the neck board if you want and you're not comfortable actually taking the neck board up fully apart which I don't blame you it can be tricky and you can you know better to be safe on any of this than actually sorry so I'll show you in a second that you can just leave what we've got here this is the rest of our setup we can leave this like this and that comes and attaches to our flyback or you know this plastic piece can split in half this part you can take that and pull that apart in half and then get the neck board off by itself the problem with that is sometimes again when you're dealing with these old plastic pieces you're putting stress on it and if it doesn't go back together you're going to be in some big trouble because that's a pretty difficult part to get so for this for this job we're I'm actually going to leave that and pull that with the main chassis after we get the rest of this out and where we don't damage it any so the next thing we're going to move on to is now that we've got some room we need to kind of get this input or a real input board out of the way down towards the bottom if you notice a lot of cables that go into the board itself so we're going to make sure that again we we know how these cables are set up that way when we reassemble our monitor we'll do it correctly but these all come from this other side which is the board that we have not touched over next to this expansion slot right here that's where all these cables lead over to the expansion bay so what we can do now is start taking the screws off on this but we've got a lot of ground connections and then we should just be able to slip this out of the way the first screw is attaching our bracket right here this is attaching our input board to our expansion slot so let's get that screw out of the way now to get this out it's a little bit different the bracket has screws down here on the side that need to be removed there's two black screws and that should be just about all that's holding this bracket on this side in so again we want this one to come this whole setup right here needs to come out so we've got our screws out and I'm just pushing it back because it's it's hooked into the bottom of the frame just a little bit I'll show you those in a second there's going to be cables attached to this that we're going to have to kind of pull away for a second just a bundle there let's swing this around so you can see what I've got here is a connection right here that can come loose that's most likely to our tally light and then a couple other cable bundles I'm not sure sometimes you got to decide whether you're going to take it from the main board or if you're going to just leave the cables here which I'd prefer to not unplug more than I have to but I do need to isolate this board a bit and get it out you got to be careful and take these connections just don't try not to be too forceful give it a little wiggle there's not a crimp on it or anything but you don't want to pull on it too hard and damage pull a pin out or something so take your time that's kind of interesting I'm going to take that comes off of there there very last cable holding our main card here in place we've got that connection on the back side so there's all what there and there and then we've got these on this other daughter board here and then that's it for that board so now we've got our other bracket out of the way what's actually holding it so we've got that and there's the plug I was talking about so that's all good and I know I can get that out of there there we go so I was just getting caught and there's our input board yeah that's just about everything leaving us with just our main board go ahead and put our neck board which we left assembled together right here we've got a screw and I see a screw behind the flyback which I will not be able to show you but it is there it's difficult to see but maybe with this overhead camera view you could get a little bit of a glimpse of where I'm actually trying to get into and that's right down here and it looks like this screwdriver is not going to be able to get down in there so I'm going to have to get a different screwdriver to get that actually out of there and I do have a shorter screwdriver still a Phillips head screw but that other screwdriver was just too big so whoa what a screw goodness here now I need to make sure that I've got all the screws out before I try to yank on this thing because there probably is one more somewhere so I think the best way to tell that maybe to secure that neck board back for a second we'll lean this forward and look at the bottom because there's some posts posts here, posts here, posts here, posts here, posts here and posts there so that should be all of them let's get set up hopefully to get this out you can just there we go slide it back a little release the cables of course we need to release the cables so that should be good and get that out of there oh sony sony sony baloney from mr sony so that's all of that I've got some connections up here that we need to just get out get out one more one more there we go one more in the middle we should quite a few more in the middle still got two more over here all right finally we have finally broken ourselves free so that's ready to come out the only thing left is our lovely anode cap here and I'm going to discharge the anode cap the way that sony recommends by removing the cap I'll actually be removing this cap with my hand and again this is the way sony has to do it so if you're not comfortable doing it this way there are other ways but this way you definitely will not damage anything if you do it this way so that's loose kind of got to pinch it together against the side and then try to pull it out it doesn't always work so I actually used the plastic piece on that to pinch that a little bit together you see how those can be pinched together so that it could have a current in it that anode cap could so that's easy to discharge we just tap that against the frame now our tube itself has not been discharged it could be discharged because there's a bleeder capacitor or resistor I'm sorry bleeder resistor in this it should help it self discharge but it still hasn't so we're going to remove this board and then we'll come back and discharge it but thankfully finally now we can get all of the main boards just out of our way I actually forgot about one screw on this ground plate there we go now we should be able to fully get rid of all that and we can get in here now and start cleaning all right yes we're still back here now I'm going to set it up and actually discharge it so I've got my discharge tool it's got a little large gauge copper cable that's double insulated and then that is soldered to this alligator clip which I will clip to my metal frame and really any part on the metal frame should be okay so just make sure you get a good clip on there let's try right there we have our cable go free and then what we're going to do is that cable is twisted around the metal end of this flathead screwdriver and then electrical tape is on there so essentially what it's doing is it's going to short the current if there's any in this tube it's going to short it over to the frame so don't touch the frame but if it does that then all that electricity what happens is it just dissipates in the frame spreads out and then goes away because it's what it says it's charged in that little spot but once it gets a large area to spread out on like a ground then it'll go away but as I thought it's already discharged so that's mostly what you would see on something like this is nothing not any kind of zap or anything but it's always good to be safe now let's start our cleaning thing so I'm going to use t-shirt that's just cotton and old that I don't wear it's clean so I'll be using that to wipe down a lot of the tube area and anything that needs to be wiped with cloth and then I will be using a bigger soft bristle non-conductive paint brush to get around here just because it will work much better than the hard plastic brushes that we were using on the circuit boards and we don't need to worry about an electrical shock or short or anything or like that so we're going to go ahead now and just start cleaning one thing to note is if you look at the back of the tube there are lines where you'll notice it looks like a dull shade of something is painted there actually is a paint on the back of these tubes so don't wipe that area with any kind of cleaner or anything you want that tube to remain dull and that paint to stay on there but the rest of the area is safe to clean around you'll see me doing that now let's go ahead now and get started he's back in and I also have installed the neck board now I know I didn't show you that on camera so if you need to go back and watch the video at the beginning on disassembling I had to put it back together you should probably do that it was just too difficult for me I had to get my head basically all the way in back here and so it really would have been no view because there are numerous places to populate these plugs on this board now there's one that's left empty over here this one will go to the power input from our video input board and then so that's what I'm going to do next is I'm going to get that board installed and then the two side boards and then we'll get it in here and get it all put back together now before we go and work on the deflection board though I want to reinstall the anode cap and since we've cleaned off a lot of the original dielectric grease I just have some more premium dielectric grease here and it doesn't need a whole lot just a dab will do you you kind of just rub that around and then I give that suction cup a nice spot to bond with and that there's still a lot of grease on the cap inside here so I'm not as worried about it it was more the back of the tube since we cleaned it but that's going to really help eliminate the chance that any dust particles get stuck under here and it can help dampen the noise some from this flyback as it starts to age they can get louder so it's nice to put that grease on there and then I believe it does allow that cap to just not deteriorate as fast as it would be if it was just dry so make sure your bond's good and that you're actually connected right there and then now we can go look at the rest of the pvm all right folks now we've got our monitor reassembled and I did want to tell you that if you do reassemble this there is going to be one connection point on this board up here that is not normally plugged into I noticed that when I was disassembly so just so you know if you have one empty port here that's fine the last cable that comes from that input extra input board over here it connects to the deflection board so to all these cables and ground cables here's the fully reassembled pvm I went ahead and put it back completely together after we cleaned it and what I want to do is I want to run tests on it to just make sure that it's still working but I wanted to show you the after and how much shinier and beautiful everything on here looks much cleaner than before we've still got to clean the front a bit as far as the board cleaning and quality checks those are complete areas that was extremely dirty before sparkling clean good example back there by the flyback and by the heat sink even the cables cleaned up nicely let's get ready we'll run our tests so after such a rigorous cleaning it will be wise of us to go in and test things out before we get too much further into any more servicing processes so again it's fully reassembled all the wiring is properly managed within the monitor and so this would be a great time to run some quick tests just to make sure everything's functioning properly now if we look in the back I want to show you I've got rgb set up and actually on this monitor it switches over to green blue red and then we need our sink plugged in and then our mono audio and that's run over here through rgb scar to our super nintendo and so we'll make sure to power the monitor on first and then we'll worry about the super nintendo so everything sounds good for an initial power up power light is on you heard the initial degausing coil go no sink showing up and I know it's shaky there but I explained that in the last video about the menu if it's in 480i which it is right now it will look a little bit more jumpy than if it's in 480p so what we need to do is make sure it's set up to receive sink so again press the menu button press ctrl on here and then you'll press the menu button go down so let's turn it to rgb component so i'm just pressing rgb component and see it says it's in component mode so let's hit enter on the right hand side enter again and then we'll press down to turn it to rgb mode press enter again and now we'll press menu once menu twice to back out of that the next thing we need to do on the left hand side is press ext sink which just turns on external sink so we have rgb component and external sink lit up on this side so we're ready to feed in our video and see how it looks turn on the super nintendo and obviously like i said we're going to have to do a lot of geometry adjustment on here especially right to left center and sizing but our screen's working tube's looking good and if we just go real quickly here to our team eos 240p test suite we can look at a couple of patterns this being a good one shows us all our colors now you're not going to see it as great on the screen but we'll get plenty of before and after shots of how this is calibrated and we'll run through some more adjustments and features on this particular monitor and kind of how you get into the service menu a little bit deeper and change things and then there are a couple of things on the inside that you might end up having to adjust so i'll briefly explain those in that adjustment section of the next video and show you that if it's necessary but for right now we're going to power this back down and that's going to do it for this long video all right so there you have a thorough tear down of the interior of this crt and then we've gone and cleaned up all the circuit boards very thoroughly that's probably the most thorough cleaning job i've ever done on a circuit board and the brushes seem to perform pretty good for how cheap they were and how little that kit actually costs so if you are looking for a cheap solution to getting a good clean on your circuit boards that's definitely safe and inexpensive at about twelve dollars i would just recommend maybe trying to think about or investing in another method to get safe compressed air onto your boards without just having to use computer duster cans i do have quite a large industrial grade air compressor actually here with a filter on it so it filters out any potential water into that filter because sometimes when you use compressed air you can get moisture in there and you don't want moisture obviously in electronics so those are just some things to think about and that's a reason why there are specific tools for use on electronic circuit boards when you're using compressed air but that's going to pretty much do it for this video thanks for hanging out this long and just checking out the unbelievable design on this again it's very cramped and more compressed and it's attempting to do things on the level that a sony bvm would do and so we obviously still have a lot to go over as far as adjustment through service menu adjustments as well as manual adjustments in the back of the monitor so that'll come in the next video and we'll also go through some of the other features as far as like buttons controlling this and we may even remove the anti-glare layer on this one because it does have a small mark on it and so i need to talk to the owner and see if he wants us to remove that and i've also got another small upgrade idea for this one that i've talked about before that will actually give it kind of a little extra boost and we'll talk about that in the next video too and hopefully kind of wrap things up on this if possible but i'm not promising that it won't take at least one maybe two more videos to completely give all the attention that we need to so that you guys can know everything you want to about the sony pvm 20l 5 without actually having to go in and read the 200 page manual that sony has on this although i do recommend checking out that manual and i will have a link to that in this description for this video but hey thanks again for joining me today i'll see you guys next time with some more retro content