 Hey everybody, so I do often take repairs and repair requests But 99% of the time now it's mostly specifically from patreon members So I have a patreon repair that I'm working through right now, and this is for David David brought Three Sony PVM 2030s, which if you know or have been around with my channel and seen some of the videos I've worked on 2030s many times But today I want to go through one of the specific repairs I had on one of these 2030s he brought three of them none of them turned on properly and They all seem to have some pretty severe issues, but the first one here is the one we're going to go through today So I'm going to pull myself down here, and we're going to walk through This Sony PVM repair So again, this is right when I got it in the first thing I want to do when I get these monitors in is Run a quick check and the power it on and see if it will have any kind of reaction The only thing it did do was the standby light over here did come on for a brief probably less than a second And then it would immediately turn off and then there's nothing no no tube Reaction nothing. It's just just like a dead PVM so This the first thing that when I start to think about what is wrong with this monitor I'm gonna show me tearing it apart here, but When the the power just won't come on at all like that It's a it's generally a sign that there's a problem in the power supply and with something that's from 1992 Which at this point in 2020 that's you know nearly 30 years old That has most likely got bad capacitors in the power supply unit And that's just a guess when you start and you have these kind of power problems because honestly you get inside here And have really anything going on and so it's always good to Additionally before you even just suspect that take it apart Inspect inside see if you could find anything that is incorrect here now I've not shown this before in the prior videos that I've done on the 2030 because I wasn't till just recently that I noticed this but If you work on these 2030s Pauses for a second down here at the bottom of the Monitor there's actually little feet that are plastic that you pull out so you can sit level and you can repair it because It's a little bit of a dip here. It's about an inch or two So I just recently found that and was wanted to make sure I shoot I showed you that because I've not I've not gone over that in the past and honestly I it wasn't till recently that I even knew that it was there so Something to think about next time if you get into one of these 2030s or any CRT is to make sure that you know You familiarize yourself with what's going on inside Now this is a very compact unit. There's a lot of boards on pretty much every side All four sides so but there was something crazy in here The first thing I noticed and this is definitely the reason that I didn't get any tube signal Right is I opened this up and the flyback was not even plugged in so This was an instance where it would have been better to even check what's going on inside before I tried to power it on So I've never seen this before this was actually the first time I've ever seen the flyback just not connected on a PVM so naturally I Thought I would go in reconnect the flyback and then Give it a quick power-on test to see if it was just something that simple I was wishing it would have been something that simple, but of course You can guess from the fact that this video is longer than maybe five minutes that it wasn't the It wasn't the flyback. So, you know, nothing changed when I plugged the flyback in at all But I thought that was crazy that the flyback was completely unplugged in this monitor So now I'm just going to tear the rest of these boards out and try to get to that power supply first off and even before I removed the power supply I Want to try and test a fuse that's in the power block and It's pretty accessible. I mean easily accessible I say, you know, you got to do what I just did where I took a couple screws out of the frame and remove the video board and Then you could get back into this area, which if you see this very large heat sink Plating that's your main power supply board and then right next to it you've got like a daughter board where there are a lot of breakouts and there are two very large capacitors on there, too and Then there's a fuse on each one of these boards now, unfortunately one of the fuses is inside that silver box and then The other is right there right where the power cable goes into the monitor So that should be pretty easy to test so really quickly I'm going to test it for just continuity and I'll make sure that I've got my Multimeter check set or my multimeter set to a continuity check which just give an audio buzz if there is continuity And you can see the fuse is fine So it's definitely not just as simple as a fuse issue now Really quickly here. I Started an inspection then of the other boards and I noticed some severe damage done to the main deflection board and First off somebody had gone in here at some point and tried to recap this And they didn't do every cap, but they did probably replace at least ten caps But they just butchered this board. This was the first thing I saw was this point right here this C5 56 and it was completely loose the traces were completely burned off here And so I knew that that was definitely an issue They'd also install or replace these capacitors here at C5 38, which is a like double capacitor For some reason out of the factory, but the problem was is they had the legs way too long on this and It wasn't even the correct value caps in here. So here's a look from the inside. I'll show you this wiggle a little bit more Especially this orange capacitor here That one was completely loose and the one under it right under it We're the ones that needed to be removed immediately because there's no continuity Definitely between those points and where they're trying to go to on the board. So I just removed the capacitors Thankfully, these are all capacitor values that I have here Just a handy in the shop, but just a complete mess so I took some alcohol and cleaned it up and you can See just how bad The traces are disintegrated especially on this 5 56 and then if we get down here to 5 54, I believe it is right under it They're not much better down there either. So I went through I found some other spots There was a spot up here next to the flyback that had a trace that was destroyed So I had to put a jumper cable there and then I made My traces, okay, so if you see what I'm doing here I'm putting in installing new caps now for example. This is the bottom cap here. This is 5 54 I believe it was so the bottom pad was okay on that one But the top pad was gone and so I put the bottom pad in or the bottom you know cap leg through the hole and sitting here and I Ran the other leg up to a trace point which thankfully there was one pretty close to there after I tend that point and then I put a Heat shrink tube on the leg of the Capacitor so I'll just use that as my jumper since it's a solid Conductive point instead of adding a jumper to the capacitor leg So that'll be my jumper and then I can go back and heat up this Heat shrink tubing and it'll make a good insulator there while it has to sit pretty close to the board But I'm gonna tend that up and you know get that capacitor leg put on that place come back and clip it out of the way and then Of course do the same thing down here at the bottom portion and then I'll Clip those legs out and go back and reflow the solder on both of those points to make sure I have a very solid connection and Then I'll heat up that shrink tubing and hopefully will be you know pretty much finished with that Just single cap repair and then we'll have to do the same sort of thing Right above it for that really damaged pad Because if you go in here and you try to like rebuild a pad You'll probably do even more damage since this is such an old piece But the best thing to do then is check a couple points for continuity and make sure that you're actually connected on your edges Now I was so that's you know You could really quick test to make sure that your jumpers and everything are connected is to run You know a couple continuity checks You can just look and see on the board where a couple points are supposed to be connected You don't even need to the schematics for that so this jumper did have to be quite a bit longer so I used a higher gauge wire and shielded insulated, you know wire here and I tend up a spot higher up on the board a couple inches away and put a jumper wire up there brand that jumper wire down to the Portion of the pad that had been completely destroyed by the person who tried to go in here and repair it back in though You know we were estimating this must have been back in the 90s Somebody tried to go in and fix this and just did way more damage than they You know than any good on there so At first and we'll come back down here and be jumped on to one of the legs together with The other end see it had to go down there and get to the other end of the capacitor so again I'm going to check that for continuity and Everything checks out fine, and then I was able to use the other pads there that were still You know Semi I mean most of the other ones were in decent enough shape So there's a couple rebuilds there so that you know, that's the first one You only had to have one leg here put it together But the top one actually had to have this red trace And then I ran the leg just like I did down here I ran the leg of the other capacitor out that hole, and it had a shorter Here at place to connect to so I was able to do the same thing with a piece of heat shrink tubing and then I Went through and replace these capacitors with at least the correct value capacitors just I tend to do exactly like it was from the factory on these older ones just to make sure that You know not interrupting the original setup as you know, I want it to be As good as it was designed to be Sometimes they did even have to come in and add these things in the field after it was set up you know to Make sure that voltages and things were correctly set So after I made all those repairs Cleaned up my mess on that board I wanted to again test it to see if that was the issue before I got into the power supply and of course unfortunately Still not the issue. So those board repairs we just did were completely necessary for this to function because again those Even with a good power supply That wouldn't have worked. So The next thing is to finally get in here and now we're going to go through this power supply and I'm going to remove it from The chassis so again, I have to blow out all the boards remove about 13 to 14 cables and then Slowly pull that board out because there are There's a couple screws in the front and there's a screw in the back holding in place Then that is a hundred percent shielded so there's probably 15 screws that you have to take out on just this power supply by itself and Then you could slide a dual power board set up out of that tight fit and There are two boards in here this board right here that I'm looking at first has some ICs and then it has a fuse on it Or no the fuse. I'm sorry the fuse is on the same side as the transformer and then about I think it's five capacitors are in this so I'll remove all those capacitors and Since I don't actually have the kit for it made or The monitors I don't I don't know that I have this I probably do have the files for this one, but since it's only a few capacitors I decided to just document them as they came out of the board and That way I can make sure that I've got the correct Voltage and everything so I just I'd pull it one at a time Check the values double-check them right down the place on the board that it is for example like C6 52 or something and It would say C6 52 for a capacitor And then I'll just write down the values as I pulled them from the board and then just go through and double-check everything at the end Because you want to make sure that you don't accidentally Write down a value incorrectly or backwards and then check the rest of the board I checked the rest of the board to make sure nothing looked damaged like any there's a few diodes on there that could probably go bad and you know resistors can obviously burn out but I Rebuilt the power supply. I put it back in here and we're zooming ahead now to this monitor being put back together For test mode you could see what a rat nest The wires are going into the video board and that's just for the setup to test this, but I think that finally Yes, finally we have a Little bit more of a reaction and the CRT pops on so as I had thought the original Problem started from the power supply and So once you replace the power supply capacitors, which is 90% of the time going to be the issue the other 10% It's going to be those other parts in the power supply most likely That you'll have to replace but 90% of the time it's bad caps in the power supply And then this one even if I had done that there were so many other issues for example the removed flyback I mean I couldn't believe that from the anode cap and then the just butchering of that board in there with the you know Terrible replacement of capacitors you have to be very very careful if you're working on some of these older Sony boards that they are easier to replace capacitors and repair But they are extremely fragile so you kind of have to try to back down a little bit on your solder temperatures and Make sure that you're not going to damage the board when you're removing capacitors or then reflow and solder We're doing really anything. So that was it for this repair You know there's enough caps to call it pretty much mostly ready to go and this one as it's such good condition it even had an original tag here with instructions on the degauss Patterns and how to use it and a couple languages. So I thought that was really cool I had not seen one of those but it's actually in beautiful shape the condition of the shell I would give it about an eight and a half to nine out of ten, which is just one down from new. It's just a beautiful example of a great shape monitor that thankfully is now saved and Gonna be able to go and have you know Plenty of use left on it. You could see just how clean it is But here's the inputs you get with this monitor. I've gone over and past the great thing about this one is If you do have some interesting features obviously as video, but the stereo audio amp is excellent as well as that power Input on the back of there. It's comes in handy quite a bit Now here's the back the only thing that you might find Useful on the back of this monitor is this degauss button and then the vertical hold button Now we'll say something else if you have an issue Where your monitor is not reacting correctly or you know You can't get the buttons to do things check this control spot up here right above the number six and make sure those are put to odd position Because you can lock this monitor out by putting those in off position and that just means that you have them turned On and no one could go and change any of the buttons on the front or use a remote with the monitor Because this one actually also even though it's so old it does support a Sony remote So if you have a Sony remote from any time in like the 90s There's a good chance that you can use it on this monitor to do things like go up and down on your volume change your inputs power it on And even go up when you're like brightness controls. That is really excellent. So I want to run a quick test I'll show you how I hook it up here against stereo speakers I'm gonna run those into the stereo out amp straight on the monitor And I'll be using s video because I don't have the actual hardgb adapter right now in my shop And so I'd have to go by it pretty much just s video But I was able to calibrate it and get it in really good shape now We'll we'll tell you that when you get into these 90s monitors There's a 90 percent chance that one of the corners again is just not going to be perfect You can get these I got this one dialed in as good as I could but there was the upper right hand corner did have a slight wonkiness to it and You know you could try everything you want the but that's for magnetism and most likely Caused an accommodation between the yoke and the tube itself So you'd have to somehow find probably a new tube and probably even a new wound yoke Which is just not realistic at this point to get that perfect perfected that geometry so that's how that that was the repair though and Really happy the way it turned out and Just some final notes here that I Wanted everybody to know that again if you're serious about getting repairs in these were dropped off to me If you're in the Nashville area you travel through that and I know things are really weird obviously in this current climate with the Lockdowns and things so that's gonna make it more difficult But hopefully someday these things will blow over or at least we can opportunity that if you are you know traveling through the middle Tennessee Area you could drop off a monitor and but I'm limiting that right now to most likely patreon members and Or you can ship a monitor, but again you're incurring a whole lot of cost and risk Which I'll go through in another repair I did for somebody else where they'd shipped to me a monitor and It worked out good in the end But it was kind of a pain for them, but again, that's gonna be through Patreon for the time being for those kind of major advanced repairs like this and Hopefully I can branch that off and maybe open up some kind of way to repair other things for people But that will have to be you know depending on how things go obviously over the next month or so with the Things on lockdown. So please just stay you know stay positive out there And if hopefully this repair might show you a little bit of ways on how to get something going But again, if you have something that will not turn on Immediately, you know, that's not a terrible sign that it could be a sign again that there's just a major issue in the power supply but Go through and check everything because you might have to do multiple repairs so thanks again to David and everybody else who is on patreon and If you guys want to check out more about that There's definitely a link in the description for this video and I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content