 Here we have a perfect example of why you always want to inspect inside a CRT no matter what. Now this is one of the most desirable 13 inch Sony PVMs. This is the 1405, the multi-format CRT and it's been performing fine but I'm going to show you a couple reasons in here specifically why you would want to always inspect inside of your first off. Just look at the amount of dust buildup inside of here. All the components and cables are heavily coated with that dust and that's very dangerous. Look over here we could have some spiders living in this area. You literally do have cobwebs so there was a spider set up in there or there currently is one living in there. I haven't seen one jump out at me yet but do you see how that could easily cause these components to be stressed by either holding in and insulating excessive amounts of heat especially on these heat sensitive items like the capacitors. This is the deflection board right here with our daughter board and our main deflection board. So that's the big reason is this stuff right here is not very good for the PVM. There's not a lot of space inside of this one and it's been mostly clogged up with spider webs and then buildup dust and that dust also in the worst case scenario could cause something to short out such as one of these ICs on here or something or even an IC on like say the neckboard. Just look down inside here but just look at how dirty it is inside of the actual area in here. Now this side is where the input card goes in. So the main thing we're looking at is dust but the next thing we need to be mindful of is look at this. Now this is a 17 year old CRT. It's got just some really delicate plastic on it. See how this board it should be up in here about like that. That's the other side just a connection board here. That should be a back against there. You can see where a piece of plastic has come off there. It's missing over here and just to kind of show you what I mean check this out. This is all the plastic bits that I found just laying inside of the PVM. So none of that's really good. It'll heat up and melt and again not it's not safe could damage something. So that's all out and what we need to do now is just set up and the first thing I really want to do is I don't want to cause any more damage to this board and we're going to service this board. So I'm going to take it out first and this daughter board and probably the board behind it will disconnect all that and we'll move this entire plastic piece out of the way and then we'll clean the rest of this monitor and then we'll service this board. So let's get that set up. I've moved to my garage just to make sure I don't get any of this dust down in the bunker. Let's take one last look at just some of the build up here. Of course the deflection board is out and being serviced. We still have the D2 daughter board down here in the way but just look at all the build up in here. We're about to clean all this out and I'm going to use just some brushes some safe ESD brushes and also an ESD cloth to clean off that neck of the tube and I'm going to use my compressed air to blow all this out. Alright our CRT has been reassembled and before I did that you could tell I thoroughly cleaned inside. There's really no cobwebs left or anything. I did a nice polish on the back of the tube where there's not that important paint. You want to make sure you don't rub that off but there are some spots on the tube that was dirty and we were able to clean up. We were able to clean up the anode cap and that cable there and really all the boards were cleaned up. It's much nicer inside and then we also serviced the main deflection board here and I will show you a copy of the capacitor list. I often get asked about the capacitor list so here's one for free from me to you and you can just take a look at that and those are the caps that were serviced on this one. The biggest and most important thing for this one was to get cleaned out and to get that loose plastic removed from the inside of the monitor where it could have either knocked off on something or caused you know a short it could have I know it's not conducted the plastic itself but it could have done something like pushed against two points that were metal and caused a short. Now it's just time to turn it on and see if it works so we've got it hooked up with a Super Nintendo through RGB and I'm just going to slowly rotate it here while it's turned on and you'll notice some sound coming up and all right so let's make sure it's on external sync that's it so it was on RGB just no sync all right it seems to be running great so just remember always clean inside these old CRTs I mean even this one is only 17 years old I say only because that's kind of young for a CRT most CRTs are well older than that 20 to 30 years old and you could really find some crazy things inside them I've seen some really bad spider webs wasps nests all kinds of crazy stuff inside of these and so not only can it be you know bad for your environment in your home but it's also not good for the inside and the CRT if you could begin to use it so always good to get in there and clean things out you do not have to discharge this to clean inside you can leave the anode cap in there and the end result is a clean device that will last a whole lot longer than if you did nothing and just waited for a fail thanks for watching me today let me know what you think with a comment below and I will see you all next time with some more retro content