 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTech Tools. Quality tools, essential support. All right guys, we are going into the grocery store, but we're gonna do something a little small, like a reach-in cooler. Let's go take a look at the fresh get-and-go cooler we got going on. You never know, something extravagant could happen. Look at that beauty. So we've got the faster for you. Let's find out what's going on here. I just came in here, seen it wasn't on the rack and thought, well, let's go grab the camera and the knee pads, cause we don't wanna go crippled any sooner than we need to. Let's take a look at this Dixel. So we're at 55 degrees. It looks like we got a fan, we got lights, and we got snowflakes. Got fan run in there, and we got fan run in there. So our vaps are working. Let's take a peek-a-poo at our actual evaporator. They made this thing usually just barely big enough to get anything out. Let's get that out of there with a look. Yeah, they designed that with no thought process at all in there. Nope. Especially if you can flip it upside down and flip it in there like that. All right. Feeling in the back. There is a temperature sensor right there. Another temperature sensor right there, it looks like. We got two temperature sensors, the coil is not frozen. Probably slightly dirty and not horrid. So we probably got a refrigeration issue down here on bottom. This thing's like a jobber to get into. Now I will tell you, do not lose this little burger. Head is important if you don't have that there. That just hooks there and there. You will have spillage where your cooling will sneak out the front. Looks like we got us a nice little filter in there, which is good to help catch some of the nasty dirt. These don't get the dirtiest in the world, but it does help. I got lots of greatness here. Looks like that's a temp sensor or something. Looked on that corner somehow. They kind of got it so you can't just shank it up or easily. Let's see, I got this stupid thing just killing you. There we go, there we go. A little to nothing back here to grab a hold of. Might be better off to smooth this stupid thing forward than it is to screw with it, trying to come at it from the front. That thing is packed full of crap, holy cow. Yeah, you can blast it out with air, but man, it's gonna make a hellacious mess. That looks like there's a new capillary tube there. It's been replaced, got a new dryer. There's a capacitor all taped up and hanging, and I think there's a stark capacitor in here hanging. There's our three fans, you can see there and there. You can see that you can't see. You know what I'm saying? You can't see that you can see, but you can see that you can't see. Got a heater element there, no water in the pan. Looks like the original compressor unless they cut it back here. All right, let's get some pressures on there. It smells stinky, not horrible stinky, but not that happy stinky either. Still waiting for the controller to come on. Well, according to that, we have a snowflake, and I'm pretty sure the snowflake means that it's actually running the compressor. It's set for 36, it's 75, it's still not running yet. Condenser fans are running, but the compressor's not running. Ooh, forgot to touch the compressor. So the compressor's hotter than heck, extremely hot. So we have a problem with our compressor. So that's the reason why I do the hand touch method where I'm constantly touching things to see if they're hot or cold or what's going on. Well, the compressor is very hot. Let's see if we can unplug this thing so we don't get electrocuted. And we'll take it apart and start checking the start components and stuff. Oh yeah, sure, it's probably 230 volt. Here's your start relay. It's warm, but I think everything's warm. Boy, she is hot. She is hot to trod. There's the start capacitor, which it's nice and hot also. No bleed resistors. Let's short this to make sure. Cause I'd rather it blow the compressor up than it is to shock my crap. Check the obvious crap first. Command up finding, compressor bad. Start capacitor comes in at 93 microfarad and this is rated for 88 to 108. So that's not a problem. And it is rated at 25. So we have good start components. Except for we don't know how the relay is. So let's take a peek at the relay here. And you get a little pry here. Get a little pry there and lucky there. We are looking in here deep. That right there does not want to let go. So we get a better look at it. That relay is froze. I don't know, it's not froze, but it definitely, it definitely is not in good shape. Definitely not in good shape. So the main thing is, is you need that to be closed. So the capacitor is in the circuit. Then when the EMF, back EMF from the compressor gets high enough, it'll make this coil energize, breaking the start relay out of the circuit, which then lets the compressor run without the start capacitor in the circuit. And the run continues to do its job. Should be able to check continuity across the switch. The switch by just going across contact point to contact point. Although it looks really horrible, it seems like it's working. So I've got a bad feeling that our compressor is shot. Unfortunately, it's a super, super stupid hot. You may need to see if we can cool it down. See if it's got an overload in there. The overload could be tripped. Like I said, that condenser coil is stupid dirty. I think what I'm gonna do for giggles is just get in there and see if I can clean up that in between. Yeah, it's knocking a lot of the carbon off. There we go. It's not near as bad looking as what it was. There we go. Yeah, it looks like brand new now. Look at that. I don't think it's gonna make a bit of difference. Of course, now it's not touching it. That's bad. Whoops. So now I gotta bend it closer to it. Yeah, that's great. So now you can see that it's clean. That'll make it good enough. It's actually not horribly pitted. Just had a lot of carbon. So we just gotta bend that back. But either way, I'm gonna replace it. But I have a feeling this compressor's bad. So it won't really matter. Take that off. Just gotta move it out of there. It's kind of flimsy the way it's held in there. I'm gonna bend this so it actually will hit. There we go. So it hits again. Now it's nice and tight and it's actually flat. That just barely touches it. But like I said, it's just a small, just barely touches it. It touches. I mean, it's definitely touching it. It'll be good enough for testing this out. Like I said, it's gotta stretch this back. Hook the top piece. Drop the spring back in. Hook that metal piece there like that and put it in a teeter top position. This is why it matters which side's up. It'll be a lot easier if I could see without having to hold a flashlight. There we go. So there. It's touching. Shadow there. There we go. So there we go. That's working. We'll go ahead. Place this like back in there. Actually at least sideways, don't it? Yeah, so it mainly doesn't go up and down. So we'll go ahead and put this back together. We'll plug it in. We'll see if it kicks on. If it does, we may just need to order a new start relay because here's the thing. If it wasn't disengaging, you would blow your start capacitor up. If you leave it in a circuit, it'll blow the start capacitor up. Our own capacitor's fine. So it's going out on thermal overload, which it's still super flipping hot. All right, let's go ahead and take a pic of that. And let's go ahead and isolate this and see if that overload is open or not. We'll check resistance between all three and see if that's truly open. If it is not open, we'll go ahead and get this thing jumped out. So we got it between run and start. So black is supposedly a common. White is start and red is run. Black is common and run. Nope. Common start now. Essentially, we can't pull this thing backwards and we need to get to the top up here, which we can't come up with. I'm gonna get into that for crap. Okay, you can kind of see now what's going on here. We got the terminals there and there's that overload right here. It probably will reset here in a second. Like I said, it could be because of 30 condenser coils, which is a pretty packed full of crap. It was warm a day ago. It was like almost 80 and today it's like 40 something. That don't sound very good. Suction's holding in there about 40-ish. It'd be nice to be able to get in here to see if we can get on there without shorting something into ground, which like I said, this is just a horrible freaking setup. Thanks a lot, Austria. Pulling seven amps. Don't sound the greatest. Suction line's coming back cold. It kind of is, it'll help cool it down some. That'd be nice. We need to clean this coil, blow it out, whatever. And then we need to get the start components replaced. I think they weren't making good contact and that was what was causing our issue. We'll let it run for a little bit here, see if it seizes up. These open cases are pretty, but they're about the most inefficient thing you could ask for. There you go. Yeah, you don't hardly feel any air flow through that thing at all. Hit that with some nitrogen, blast it out. So you gotta be careful because it's all gonna go flying that direction. It's just a bad, bad deal. We're gonna run about 250, which is equivalent to about 105 discharge. It's not horribly bad really. You figure it's probably 70 in here, so 80, 90, 100, so it's about 35 over ambiance. It's just a little high. We're running a 35 degree evaporator, which sounds about right. So refrigerant-wise, it appears that we're fine. Compressor was overheated. It appears to me that we have start component issue for our S start relay. That relay wasn't allowing the current through, it would just go off on thermal. So essentially, if it was open, even though it was closed, if it was open, it wouldn't even put the capacitor in the circuit. Therefore it wouldn't blow it up, but it also wouldn't start. That's what I think's going on. I clean that up and it's working, but don't know what the normal amperage is on this thing. I can't read the compressor very well. If they need it bad enough, they can run it, but I almost feel like, you know what? You just need to wait till they get done because my luck it won't run, it'll fail, and then they got product back in there and it goes bad because this is not on the rack farce alarms and stuff like that. I went ahead and turned it off. Suction came up just like it did fairly quickly, but that's pretty normal. Actually, kind of came up rather quick, I thought, but it's actually for a cap tube, but let's go ahead and see if this thing will come back on again. Let's watch our meter. It'll take a second for it to go through its delay. Came right on. Third warm click. One 8.6. According to this up here, says 8.6 amps. Normal. Norm current. Suction's a little slow come down. Definitely running a little warm. I mean, it's just hard to tell if it's, they got it in there where you can't hardly get to it. A capillary tube just kind of seems slow. Slow to respond. That pressure jumped right up there. Still got clean out out yet. Amperage starting to come back down. Didn't sound as bad as it did the first time. Just seems kind of hefty. I was able to get that cover back up in there. Had to do a little modification to the backside with my Milwaukee saw. It still protects all the wires. I'm gonna go ahead and get this back together. I short cycled it multiple times. Granted, the controller has a time delay in it. And we're gonna order new start components, but I am very leery about how hot that thing is running. So I've got my thermometer and I measure it to see about where it's running at. I usually like to wrap this with black tape around the black cap that originally went around this. There's just no great way to do this. Okay, it's got a maximum temperature. Hit 182s max so far. That's a lot cleaner than what it was. I ain't gonna say it's perfect all the way to the back, but it sure looks pretty dang close to being perfect to the back. Hopefully it all went to back here in the hallway underneath the shills. If it was more accessible, you could run a wet beach towel or whatever on the back side of it. This up here still, I don't know, it's a little dirty, but go ahead and get this thing back together. That's why a lot of times we run these media filters, which it's not recommended, but you do what you can do. All right, so we're at 45 degrees. I put that in place just a second ago. I think they want to leave the lights off that way it don't draw people in. There's nothing in there yet, but we've got an orange light there. I don't know if that means that it's wanting to go into defrost or what. I don't know that Dicks will control that great. To me, it shows a moon, so I don't know if it means maybe it's coming out of the defrost or maybe it's just getting ready to go into it or maybe it's skipping it, I don't know. But we got 45 there. I would have figured this would have hit temperature by now. We are 44 there, so the thermometer's pretty accurate. That's kind of interesting. I think shut down. That must have a magnet. Oh, that has a temperature sensor. It's interesting. So, I'm kind of curious, I wanted to see what kind of droppin' across that. That's the battery to hit it. Of course I opened up the thing, so, I mean, it's runnin', I feel like they should probably be cautious if they're gonna use it until I get back. Like I said, I got a lot of that carbon crap off the relay, but I don't trust it. I prefer they don't use it, but they do whatever they want. So anyhow guys, we're gonna order that and then get them put in and install them. I don't think there's a lot more to say about it. It's pretty much swap them out and not be the end of it. Everything else checked out fine and most of the work's done. All right guys, hope you enjoyed it. Till next time, later.