 Bonjour et bienvenue, this is La Modélise and welcome back again to my channel. In today's tutorial, we'll be recreating patterns for the brown column dress designed by the amazing Daniel Roseberry, the creative director of the House of Schiapparelli. I was captivated by this piece for its simplicity, seductive touch and overall creativity. In this tutorial, we will primarily use a pattern making technique called cuttings and I'll guide you through the process. Before we start, let's take a closer look at the details of this garment. Draped Halter. The upper area of the dress features a halter neckline that drapes around a gold necklace. The draped halter neckline is also connected to the under bust part of the dress which I refer to as cuttings. I'll demonstrate this later. Empire cut. The front part of the dress has an empire cut that accentuates and lifts the bust area. Cut out. Additionally, there's a triangular cut out at the center front of the dress that exposes the cleavage. Panels. The dress is also composed of panels or princess seam lines. The center front is cut along the seam and not on the fold. Pencil skirt. The length of the skirt is approximately 30 to 35 inches from the waist. It is a pencil cut that creates a narrow shape at the hem, accentuating the hip line. Slit. Given that the skirt is a pencil cut, incorporating a slit at the center back is practical for improved mobility. Pivoted Seam Lines. As mentioned earlier, we will be working with cuttings, a pattern making technique that involves pivoting a seam line to create a new position or direction. And for the back, the cut is until the bust line. For the draped halter top, we'll deviate from the traditional draped effect of the design. Instead of draping it around a necklace or a tie, I'll demonstrate a different technique. We'll use a collar foundation to provide support and structure for the halter top. To start off, I will trace my basic torso block on my pattern taper. And make sure there's sufficient space at the bottom of the hip line for the skirt drafting. From the waistline, mark down the skirt length. From the skirt length marks, square a line like so. Next, from center front and center back at the hip line, square a line towards the hemline. And also at the side seams at hip line. The width of the hip lines should be parallel, same hip width as basic torso. From the end of the first front dart, square down a line until the hemline. And from the end of the first back dart, square down a line until the hemline. And do the same procedure for the secondary darts. From hemline at side seams, mark in 1.5 inches or 3.8 centimeters each side. And from this mark, square a slant line towards the hip line at side seam. And do the same procedure at the other side. From center back at hip line, mark down at least 3 inches to 8 centimeters. From this mark and at center back, mark out 3 inches or 7.6 centimeter. And square a line connecting the marks and the hemline. And mark down 2 inches or 5 centimeters from the rectangle shape. And square a slant line towards the angle. This is the back slit for the dress. Because it will be impossible to draft the top areas with this long dress, I will temporarily cut off at the hip lines of my front and back dress foundation so I can draft the top areas easily. I will later tape at the hip lines once I'm done drafting. From the bust point, draw your bust radius minus 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. And from the bust line, mark down the same bust radius measurement for the under bust line. And square a line. From under arm at side seam, mark in 3.8 of an inch or 1 centimeter for the first contour guideline. From this mark, draw a slant line blending towards the waistline at side seam. Next, from the first front dart at bust line, mark in 3.8 of an inch or 1 centimeter each side. And from these marks, draw slant lines toward the bust point and this is the second contour. And draw in slant lines toward the waistline on each side. Next, redraw the shoulder bust dart pointing towards the bust point and cut through the first princess line until the bust point but do not cut beyond. And transfer the shoulder bust dart by closing it permanently. Next, draw in the neckline from neck point until the under bust at princess line using a curved ruler. Next, from neck point measure out 2.8 inches or 5.7 centimeters and mark. Next, from side seam at bust line, mark out 3.8 of an inch or 1 centimeter and connect these two points together with the curved ruler for the new armhole. From bust line near center front, mark up and down 4.8 of an inch or 1.27 centimeters. And from these marks, draw slant lines toward the bust point. Next, from shoulder point, draw in a line towards the bust point. And from this line, either mark in or out 4.7 inches or 1.27 centimeters. And from this mark, draw in a slant line until the bust point. And close these contour guidelines and mend and blend the neckline and the armhole. By the way, for those who are new to my channel, I have a separate tutorial for bodice contouring principles and it is available on my channel so better check it out. Next, cut through the second princess line until the bust line but do not cut beyond. And from the second dart, slash one of the dart legs at waistline like so. Next, fold the excess from the dart leg and close the dart and tape only until the under bust line as shown. And next, from the waistline at side seam, mark up 3 inches or 7.6 centimeters. From this mark, draw in a curved line connecting at the under bust. And continue taping the second dart until the curved line. Going back to the first dart, slash through one of the dart legs this time at the under bust line. And next, fold one of the dart legs. Close the dart and tape the dart only until the under bust line. And as you can see, the neckline and the curved line at the second dart are now connected. And cut off the pattern from the side seam going towards the neckline. And continue to cut the pattern off from the peeper. And here is the top halter piece. Next, cut off the triangular cut out from the under bust line. We won't use this anymore. And continue on cutting off the excess at princess seam lines of each panels. And label each panel and indicate the center front and the side seam. So here's how the top halter piece and the panels appear on my dress form. Next, let's cut open the darts again. And on another piece of paper, let's trace the pattern for the lining. For the self or shell pattern, I'm going to divide the neck by three, creating two marks for the slash lines. Next, from these marks, I'm going to draw in lines until the bust point and the second dart. A straight slash line until the bust point and a curved slash line until the second dart. Next, I'm going to slash these lines open and close the darts and tape them in place permanently. Next, get another piece of paper, tape the self or shell pattern in place, and square in lines in between connecting the slash lines. First one should be gathered and the second one will be folded. Next, I'm going to put my desired sewing allowance. And please do not forget to notch the pleating or gathering references. And also notch at the center front chestline and notch at the previous dart at under bust. And label the pattern. To make it clear, for the armhole and neck, I've used two eights of an inch of sewing allowance. For the neckline and at the curved seam, I've used three eights of an inch of sewing allowance, four eights of an inch of sewing allowance at the side seam, and two eights of an inch of sewing allowance here at the first dart of the lining. For the second dart, I'm only going to fold it like so. I will also notch here at the chestline. For the collar, get the back and front neckline measurements from your bodice or torso block and record the measurements. Mind you, my measurement is different from yours, so get your own measurements. On your paper, draw a left angle line and the horizontal line must be longer. Label the vertical line center back. And the horizontal line is where the collar sits. For short, label this line neck. From center back, mark out the back neckline. And square a line. This is the shoulder point line. From shoulder point, mark out the front neckline measurement. And square in a line. Label this line as center front. From neck, mark up 2.5 inches to 3 inches. And square a line. And label the center front as unfold. And for the center back, the closure will be buttons and loops. So here's how the collar pattern piece and the top halter piece look like on my dress form. We deviated from the original design of the halter top, but this version also adds that extra flair to the dress. For the back, we will mostly draft from the bust line downwards. And I will cut through the back princess lines, both darts like so. And I will cut through one of the dart legs at each dart at the waistline. And fold the darts. And close the dart until the waistline. From the bust line at center back, mark down 3 of an inch or 1 centimeter. From this mark, draw a slight curve until the underarm at side seam. Next, from side seam at underarm, mark in 3 of an inch or 1 centimeter. And square in a slant line towards the waistline. From center back at new bust line, mark in 2 of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. From this mark, square in a line towards the waistline. From the waistline at side seam, mark up 3 inches or 7.6 centimeter. From center back at waistline, mark down 2 inches or 5 centimeters. Next, using your ruler, draw a curved line from the 3 inches mark until the waistline and the direction is going to be at the first back part as shown. From side seam at new bust line, mark in 4 of an inch or 1.27 centimeters. And from this mark, draw a free hand curve line until the 2 inches mark at center back. So these 2 patterns will appear as if it's a continuous panel. Next, I'm going to cut out the patterns from the paper and label each pieces and indicate the center back and side seam. So these are my back patterns and this is how they appear on my dress form. So after drafting the torso, I will tape the patterns back at the hip line. 4 back panels 3 and 4, I will fix the princess seam line. At the hem, I'm going to mark in the halfway between panels 3 and 4. And from this mark, I will pivot the princess line making a new line. Anyway guys, I hope this pattern making tutorial give you enough tips on how to recreate the column dress from the house of Schiaparelli. And if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to comment down below and I will reply as soon as possible. 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