 It's raining a lot and there's a train. This isn't working. On today's vlog we go over concave haircutting. All right so I put concave layering in my last couple of vlogs. Now here's the challenge. I've done it twice. I did one time vertical. I did the other time horizontal. I had questions both times about was it concave or was it not concave. So I want to break down my thoughts on concave layering so that hopefully you guys will understand why I call it concave and why it is concave when I'm cutting the way that I'm cutting. So here's the breakdown. All right so what I did on the last video was I was cutting the hair vertically in the back. What I was doing is elevating that hair up to a flat line here pretty much flat with the top of the head. Why you guys didn't think that that was concave is because I wasn't hiking up my elbow and creating this short to long feel here which is what you guys are used to seeing when somebody says they're cutting concave. They elevate their elbow that's what they call concave and that's the only thing that we think about when we think about concave. But you have to look at the head shape. We've talked about the head shape many many times so the head shape is so important on what your angle is and what you're creating in the haircut. The other thing I did was a couple weeks ago I did a haircut where I held everything above the head same elevation but I did it horizontally and I called it concave as well. So I'm going to go through both of those scenarios and help you understand again why I call those concave. So I want to break it down on this bald mannequin first then I'll show you with a drawing and hopefully I can help you guys understand why I call it concave. All right so let's look at the angle breakdown of what I'm doing on the head. So if I were to hold this up right here and cut the hair this is concave. If I were to shift and hold this part of the head up and cut it it would not be concave it would be straight layers but because I'm shifting here and I'm pulling the hair from the back of the head that changes the entire angle of how I'm holding the hair. Let's look at it this way. This straight out 90 degrees right then we shift it up. Now what I'm doing is I'm taking hair this bit is at 90 straight out this bit is higher than 90 and this bit is at almost 180 so that line is being created. So really if you just tilt the head forward a little bit you would see that how I'm holding that hair is actually at that same curved shape that you're thinking when we take the hair and do it like this. The reason I did not do that and shift my fingers that much because the more you shift your fingers the shorter the layers are going to get towards the head and I didn't want that short of layers. So there's a lot of different ways to hold the hair when you're cutting concave it's not as easy as just shifting your fingers up and calling it concave. So concave is a short to long arched feel of the hair and if you're working with the head shape back here and I lift my fingers here all of this hair is coming at different angles so you're going to see that it has that concave feel to it if you look at it from a head shape standpoint. Now I want to do the same thing on a drawing because some of you guys visually can't see it on the head so I want to break it down also with my magnetic sketch head right here. So we have the head shape I'm going to draw this out real quick and then break it down for you. Okay so this is what I did so I cut the hair I elevated the hair here cut it horizontal with the top of the head and what that's going to do when you release the hair is push this bottom part is going to fall longer right this is going to cut be cut short so if you see it creates that arch shape. Now if I were to do the same thing and hold the hair horizontally so this is the vertical version if I were to do it horizontally it's going to be even more extreme version of this because so the horizontal version becomes a flat line and I'm bringing everything up to one point cutting it just like that so what I'm doing is I'm holding that hair flat in my fingers and then when you let it go this longer point gets even longer and falls so it creates that arch shape so we're creating concave no matter what what you guys are used to with what people call concave would be holding the hair here and creating that scoop motion with your fingers from the rest of the hair this is also concave I'm not saying that this isn't concave this is a more extreme version so when you let that go this is going to be even longer so you let that go it's coming all the way out here now you've got a longer version you've got shorter layers and a longer bottom that's not always what you want that's not necessarily the shape that we're trying to create or the type of density that we're trying to create within a haircut I wanted to remove weight but I wanted to keep structure and I also didn't want really really short layers so there's all different types of concave I hope that I hope that this helps you guys understand that it's not always about how you're holding your finger angle it's all about the head shape where the head shape is at when you're holding the hair and what that is creating that is the real result of what we're trying to do so hopefully this will help you guys when you're cutting hair and removing weight and all those things you don't have to go like this to create concave you can do it based on the head shape and where you're at in the haircut so take the haircut piece by piece that's what I ask of you guys every time is take little pieces of what I do and incorporate it into your haircutting and hopefully that will help you out so thank you guys so much for watching hope I cleared it up hope you've joined the community you can ask these questions on there fsesocial.com thank you guys for watching I'll see you on the next vlog thanks