 15 degrees out and we are heading to a call. We're driving on a stone road, which there ain't that many of them out here, but it definitely ain't normal. Let's go see what's going on. This heat pump is not running. I assume they've either got gas or electric as an auxiliary heat. Okay, well, we're looking at a fancy train unit. It's got all kinds of blinking lights down here. Look at all that. We've got some reds, some blues, some greens. We've got all kinds of dancing lights going on. So what this means here is, we've got to read through the manual and find out how it works. Just looking at this crappy solder joints. Somebody didn't know how to braise. Looks to me like they're leaking. Look at all the oil. With that weird-looking freaking motor, it looks like somehow they're commercial applications. They're getting all sprung on plastic, aren't they? I think it's all things made out of plastic. It's all insulated, which is nice. Well, we better see if we can figure out what kind of codes are blinking here. Do we have anything written on the back side of that? Nope. Gotta love train. Hard to stop one. Even harder to get one going. Well, we have an EXV here. Let's find the most expensive unit we've got and then let's do a shitty job on installing it. I love it. And I'm not guaranteeing it probably ain't set up right. If you can't clean up their wiring for that, chances are they probably didn't start it right. Fan speeds aren't set correctly. Tonnage is probably not set correctly. It didn't braise and shut correctly. It's just sad. People pay good money for stuff and then people do a half-ass install. It's truly sad. It's not right. Guys, I'm not a train fan. I mean, they're nice looking. They got some nice things about them. I just, it's just like anything. You can have some of the best equipment on the market, but if you have an idiot installing it, it doesn't do you any good. Filter feels like it's plugged up pretty good. Yeah, it's not good at all. That's matted shut. Oh my God, that's nasty. Okay, you see what bright that baby is? Yeah. There's no airflow whatsoever. So my guess is this thing was probably blocking off the airflow so badly that it probably overheated the coil, which need a new filter for sure. We're gonna leave that out for now. And then looking at this return, that don't look like the biggest return in the world I've ever seen. You got 80-bitty around on there. It's not a lot of return. Not a lot of return. If you're lucky, it's 14. The installer's guide here. I mean, we're just starting off. I mean, we've got, I'm gonna check for a leak. I mean, I bug guarantee right now we're low on refrigerant and we had an airflow issue. So there is test button, gas temperature sensor. Okay, nice thing is you can see that the condenser coil is right out there. So it's less than three foot, four foot from the unit. So I went ahead and read through it. They had the sequence operation, which I gotta say, this is pretty well laid out. Went through, seen how it runs, seen how the fan kicks up and down. Also told me where to find the codes at, which is in the service fact book. Told me which board was what. One's the expansion valve, one is the blower board. If it's low, we may end up just pulling the charge and weighing it back in because we may not have a whole lot of options. Okay, so these batteries do not like the 14 degree weather. They have to warm up. I'm not picking up any leaks on anything. I've already scanned all over. I've got nothing on these fittings at all. I've kind of scanned up and down all into there. Did it with this one just in case the other one's acting up because you know, it's kind of like, okay, I've been having a lot of leaks lately but I'm not finding and I'm not, not getting anything. I'm gonna grab the H10 just to make certain because that oil came from somewhere. I'm not getting anything with this thing at all. It's going all the way around it. Falling the pipe everywhere and first test vial unless there's no pressure on it. I haven't ran this thing for a while. This is what I love about it. I mean, this thing is a tank in a new Milwaukee battery pack. I can run this thing off of that. So if my battery goes dead, I can plug it into that. That's a God sent right there. No more extension cords or any crap like that if I go dead. We're gonna skip the refrigerant issues. I'm gonna probably start this thing back up with a failure that's not completely plugged solid and see how she reacts. All right, so you're supposed to kill power. Within 30 seconds, press and hold the test button for one to two seconds. And if a fault occurs during the test mode, the LED will flash the code and continue to test. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, 10, 11, 11 again. Electronic valve controls detective fault condition refer to the LED of the EVC, which back to the sensor. So let's see if we can find that sensor that they're claiming is problematic. See if we can check resistance on it. Okay, so we went ahead and tried resetting the board. Had to go out and grab my 87.5. This is my electronics meter. He's a for generators, super accurate, bench top style meter. I've got all of my fancier probes in here, you know, clamps, you know, back probing is what you need to do on little dinky connectors like this. You can see that there's, you can't get a full size probe in there. So you've got to back probe it. If you go to the front, you're going to wallow out the pin and then it's not going to be tight on the control board. So you back probe it. There's something they taught us in the generators, you know, so anyhow, the sensors that they have on the coil is this orange one right here and this black one. We can turn on the light here to make it a little easier to see. They said gas, which would make sense because that hot gas or whether it's going to be cool gas, it's going to be gas and this is going to be liquid. So that's your orange one and your black one. It comes up to this prong here, which goes up to the electronic expansion valve board, which is going up to here and here is the charts. Well, one of the things they wanted you to do is verify you had five volts on the control board. We do have 4.8 volts on that board. Now we come over here to the chart to see what your thermistor value should be and we were right, I think 12,000 area and that puts us somewhere in that 66 degree mark on the orange one, but not on the black one. The black one doesn't have anything, which tells me it's open, but that's also measuring it back here. You've got this long wire that goes through all this stuff and eventually gets down to here. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to check it here at the sensor and see if it truly is the sensor or is it the wire. So we're going to go ahead and back probe that one and they've got little rubber car style plugs on there to keep the moisture out of it. So let me back probe that real quick. What I ended up doing was plugging back in the wiring harness. The black comes all the way down to here. I've got these probes that'll actually puncture it. I don't recommend this, but since we were out nothing, we are at 4.9 volts. We are getting into the wires there and I have links to these, should have links to these down in the section down below. Always have it in my toolbox area. You guys just need to look around a little bit down below there, all kinds of information. Spray it with big blue. Don't see anything on the suction line, but far as that there, we are getting voltage down there, which tells me that I am getting a good connection. We just have a bad sensor. Seems to be a 10K area sensor, which we'll just order one and get the right one. I was gonna swap the orange and the black here, but they put male and female. They did opposite so that you don't get those backwards. Otherwise, everything seems to be probably working fine. Unfortunately, it does not appear that the heat pump will run without that sensor. It's monitoring that. And there's not a whole lot I can do right now. We're gonna go ahead and just order the right one, get the model number and stuff off the unit. Should be good to go. Looks like everything I need's in this book here. There's those probes that I've got for back probing. I have probes here that you can pull apart, which makes it a lot easier. These here just plug into it. There's all kinds of different ones. I have the arc flash style probes here. So they're expensive, but so is hospital bills. Then I just keep it all down here, and then I will just stick them into the foam so they don't fly away. They've got heat, the auxiliary heat's working. You don't really wanna use these on high voltage, even though I do that sometimes with my generators. It's not safe. And also it can cause problems with the wires insulation. It can cause a rot out, stuff like that. Wrap it up for now. Hopefully we'll get back out. That was days later. We're back, I've got a new trimester here for this unit. And we got a new air filter. So we've got it setting right there. The carrier one fit just perfect, even though that one there is kind of a Linux, but it'll work just great. There was in very small amount of difference of each other, just clamped on there. Okay, so I had to go back through my videos to see what it was. They sent me the wrong one. They sent me the liquid sensor. I didn't need the liquid sensor, but because it's the same resistance as the gas sensor, I was able to put the gas sensor on with the old plug. So if it ever goes back again, they'll be able to just unhook it and change it. Use some of the 3M Scotch locks, what have you. That's got that dielectric grease type stuff in there to keep the moisture out. So we've got a good connection there. Phone company's been using these things for years. And guess what? We don't have a fault code number four anymore. That went away. So let's go ahead and get this thing insulated and kick this thing on and see what kind of heat we get out of it. Now, the way to erase and clear the faults, that way we got a fresh start, press the test button for 10 to 12 seconds, release it, wait five seconds, cycle the power. Let's go ahead and put this back on regular heat. It's kind of interesting. I don't hear the fan running, but I can hear the condenser running. And you can see the fan running. So when you look at the thermostat, it says waiting, but first stage. I don't know if the waiting is for auxiliary heat, but that suction line, which, you know, hot gas is not very hot. So we might be on the right track, like I said originally, that it might be low on refrigerant. It's obviously got those sensors that they're using probably to help control fan speed, I'm assuming. But it's not all that hot. It's always promising when you come out and you take the liquid line cap off and that starts happening. That's nice. It's not very good weather out here. Not good weather for trying to get this set correctly. So we're gonna go ahead and get this thing valved up and see what's going on here. We're still in low, so we gotta wait for it to go up to high yet. I got it apart and you can see the capacitor's mushroom there. Also got a couple of wires there about ready to fall off, which is great. Cut corners, Charlie, and didn't put a disconnect box. So you gotta go inside and turn the power off the breaker box, wherever that's at. And like I said, we're about 20, 27 degrees out here and running about 275 on the head. That's in low. Can't really judge a whole lot. Gotta read back through this thing. It's been a year and a half since I worked on one of these by train, but I know you got to short some crap down here to get this thing into a test mode or charge mode, what have you. I think you just gotta hit that button here. It's been, like I said, but with that capacitor being bad like that, that ain't gonna make it run right. So we gotta get that replaced. You would think the electrical goes up here and across the ceiling, but I'm having a heck of a time finding it and no one's here to ask. Okay, so I've looked the whole farmhouse over and you know, everybody would put their breaker box behind this. There's your box. And to think it would've cost them $20, $15 to put a cheap disconnect box on that. All right, we got the capacitor in there. Got the breaker on. I went ahead and yanked out the charging facts and all that happy stuff. Anyhow, just like anything, when it's below 55 degrees, they want you to pull the charge and weigh it in. That's the only way they wanna do it. If you're gonna try to do it any other way with their manual charging method and all that crap, it's, there's no good way to do it, but they do give you a cheater chart in the back, which is never really accurate. We're going to see if we can get close to some of this. It's feeling a little better. We might be all right, I'm hoping. It's feeling better than it did before and that's probably because that capacitor, it sounded like the compressor was running, but definitely is gonna run better with the capacitor that's properly sized. It had a hard start on there, which probably got it going, but it probably wasn't pumping at full speed. I don't know. If something wasn't right, I know that and it's feeling better. As you can see, we've got the oval and still the round on there. It's all I had, but at least it was 440 and 25 microfarad. We're still in low. We're at 281 and 83. Normally you don't go by just pressures, but they need a whole lot more to pick from. So at 25, we should be somewhere around 250 to no more than about 300 on our high side and on our low side and first stage. We're gonna be somewhere right in that 60 to somewhere around 80. And we're looking good. So I'm gonna say we're fine. It still hasn't switched over yet. I don't wanna spend all day here. It's already 315 and everything's looking a lot better than what it was earlier. I would say what happened was that capacitor wasn't getting the compressor going like it should. I mean, I had sounded like it was running, but maybe it wasn't. I don't know. As I've mentioned times before guys, I'm not a training guy, but all the equipment works the same. It's just how did the engineers decide to wire crap to make it a little more efficient and do their own twist to make it a selling point to sell it. But from what I'm seeing, everything seems to be fine. I'm gonna check the temperature rise on it yet and see what we got there. What, that's it? Where's the end of the video? Exactly, that's what I was looking for. I can't find it. So I'm just gonna go ahead and end it this way. The unit eventually came into second stage. It went right along with the charts of what we've seen there. Everything seemed to be working fine. The capacitor was our major issue along with the sensor. The sensor caused the system to shut down. That's the reason why it wasn't running. At the end there, we weren't getting a lot of heat. I think the compressor wasn't coming up to full speed. A lot of times start capacitors can get them going, but it just doesn't sustain it. So that's about it, guys. It's been at least four weeks. It's been running good ever since then. I haven't heard nothing back otherwise. So that's gonna wrap that one up. If you guys enjoyed the video and you wanna see more like it, if you would, please consider subscribing. 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