 Today, we are going to go change out of compressor on... You don't have a hammer? What kind of hammer would you like, son? There's a carpenter's hammer. Got two different Deblo hammers. A sledgehammer. Oh, my. That ain't good. Look how black that is. This video is brought to you in part by TrueTech Tools. Quality tools, essential support. All right, guys. So today, we are going to go change out of compressor on a walk-in freezer that I found bad. That's the cooler. And that's the freezer. This thing is, I think, 21 years old. I recommended that they replace it, but they chose to go with a new compressor. That being said, we're going to give them a new compressor. Now, what I did do when I was here is I pumped this thing down to see if it would pump down. It would not. Yeah, there's a lot of things that are just hodgepodgey about this whole thing. Yeah, here's that compressor. Instantly stops. Instantly kicks back on. That's what we got. At least it's not a burnout. I told them, I said it's just a matter of time until the fan motor goes out and all the other little small components or coil leaks. It's noted on the paperwork. We've got it recovered. Let's go ahead and get some of these things popped off so we can unbrace this. The compressor is actually just snapped off, so it's not burned out. Somebody's got to get on there tight as they can get it good and tight. We're just going to make this simple. That wire is so stiff. The only reason why I'm removing this is because I don't want the heat to transfer up into the switch. Now, what would suck is if you ever had to replace this, some jack took the Schrader core out of there. And so you pop that bad boy and you can at least isolate it down there on that discharge valve down there. But still, that's my homemade stainless steel pressure tube. Now, a lot of times I don't run nitrogen on it when I'm changing the compressor at the compressor. You can do it, not horribly worried about just two connections at the compressor a lot of times, especially on bigger systems with TXVs. I want to make sure I remove my flame before I pull that thing out of there because there's probably going to be some oil in there and you'll have some flare up. See that? Works out great that way. And we should be able to pull it right about there. I don't know how that got bent and I got bent, but that was how it was when I got here. And brand new freaking torch head and it doesn't shut off all the way. Gotta love that. I want to make sure that the oil is still in there because I want to make sure that we don't have an oil issue with that. It can be that it could be defective. Once again, why I wanted to replace the whole unit. We'll pour this thing into a barrel or into a bucket. Right on top here is the oil charge says 45 ounces of POE oil. Easiest way to get it out of here is to dump it out through the suction side here. Kind of difficult. Oh my, that ain't good. Look how black that is. See all that refrigerant in the oil? That's what happens when you're trying to pull the system into a vacuum. And it takes forever. That is refrigerant oil and that is jet black, nasty, nasty crap. Now, how much time did it take for me to pull that oil out of there? That's why they say to do it. Man, that is jet flippin' black. Now we can give it the old sniffer. I do not smell anything bad. I have no bad smells at all in there. That is just plum filth. That crap is going to be trapped in the receiver. We're going to go ahead and cut out the dryer. I'm glad we're replacing the refrigerant because like I said, this thing didn't smell bad. The nut and stuff is on the bottom. Let's put our upside down for a minute. Oh, yeah. I spoke with people and everyone's made aware of what could be going on. So we're just going to continue on doing what we got to do here and get this thing up and going. At least there ain't a lot of gunk down there in the suction line. So maybe it just all got trapped in the compressor. Honestly, that's really clean. That is really clean. There's no gunky stuff down there at all. Nothing dripping out of the dryer. So maybe it's not that big of a deal. Maybe I'm just overreacting. What can I say? Well, you've got to keep that in mind before you complain or say things because there's just nothing the person doing the job can do other than make someone aware. I'm not a big suction side dryer type person. That blows through pretty good. That feels fine to me. Put a 164 in there. This is a 184. So we're going to get, you know, 164 cubic inches compared to 84. Yeah, we'll go ahead and run some garden hose through that and get that washed out. Just kidding. Surprising the bearings on this old bird seem pretty good. The original reason why we came out here is they thought the motor was bad. So I thought, yeah, that's an easy call for the day. It wasn't that. It was the compressor wasn't pumping enough pressure to make the pressure switch make to make the fan come on. That needs to be bird, but I do not want to deeper down in there. So what we're just going to do is round out the edges. That way nothing falls down in there. Not a real good way to do it other than bend the pipe over and then you're just weakening the copper a little more. We'll just round out those edges a little bit. That one there you could do it the traditional way. Oh, those pliers that everybody hates. I'm going to do a video on this because what people don't understand is you can open and close, open and close. They think I'm rounding the edges over. Every time I get one of these imbeciles that bitch about my pliers because I'm not going to carry, you know, here's the thing. I got tools. I got tools. I got all kinds of tools. We'll see what kind of tools I got. They say get a socket set. Kind of socket set and box wrench. Would you like me to have deep well? Would you like metric? Would you like stars? Standard Allen wrench you name it. I got it all in there. It ain't because I don't have it. It's because I don't need it. And I know there's only like three or four imbeciles out there that say this crap. Oh, and then then you got the impacts and stuff too because, you know, we've got big boy stuff too that we work with. It irks me because one guy said, oh, you want to make your wrong. I'm like, I'll admit I'm wrong if I'm wrong, but I'm not wrong. Let's take a look at the nut here. Totally unrelated to the video, but it just is a good time to talk about it. Okay, let's look at that. Hold it out here so we can zoom in on it. Do you see any rounding? Oh my. There was one little rounded piece at the very edge. Who knows if that was for me? No rounding. Hmm. Yep. May have to hit on that. Oh, that was the other thing. Got mad because I used my pliers. You don't have a hammer? What kind of hammer would you like, son? Now what sucks is that person that was watching probably ain't watching this video. So there's a carpenter's hammer. Got two different dead blow hammers. A sledgehammer. So I've had this little sledgehammer since I started. So yeah, I've got the tools, buddy. Honestly, it's two guys out of 52,000 views at the time on that video. It's on the generator video. 52,000. And I think it's currently, it was at 55,000 views like a day or two before that. Later early that morning, he's bitching because I was using my pliers there that's caused so much controversy and said he shouldn't be pounding on it. He was a starter I was going to replace. So anyhow, I'm going to flatten that out. And as you notice, I'm leaving the compressor closed until I'm ready for it. That way we're not letting moisture into the oil any sooner than we have to. We'll warm that metal up a little bit. And we'll bend that back down. There we go. Now we should be able to flatten that right down like it should be. That's much better. Here we go. Look at that. Get her in there like that. I don't know, it's not as perfectly round on the inside I'd like to see, but I think it's the least of our worries at this point. So let's throw a show off the captain hook here. Since for the longest time, I wasn't able to use the captain hook. My torch handle wasn't right the one. Get our oxy going. Nice and strong like that. There we go. And I don't have to be super, super strong because the heat that's coming out of this thing is uniformed all the way across. And see how we can get right up to the compressor. And with that, the way it is, like I can sit there and touch all the way around it. It's not going to knock it out because of the way they got it set up. So obviously as usual, we're going to put all the heat right here. Then we're going to bring it to there and then bring it into the pocket like that. For the most part, it gets almost perfectly all the way around it. Starting to get there, almost there. I don't want it so high that it ends up, look at that. All the way around. There we go. All the way uniformed. Just one little driplet on the bottom. Not bad. Come into the half inch here. Same thing. Always want to bring it into the center conductor coming into the pocket first. And then we're going to pull the heat into the rest of the... I like calling it a pocket. Socket, pocket, whatever you want to call it. We'll know here in a second. As you can see all the way around there, it's hitting it almost all the way across. There's a little bit there. A little bit on the back. I haven't used this thing much until just recently, so I don't have had a lot of experience with it. There we go. Like I said, I'm not running nitrogen on that right here. It's just a little bit of a minimal. I do it on all my small stuff. Most things, but once again, if it's the first time you've ever watched me, you know I've run it almost 99% of the things. On stuff like this where it's bigger compressors, a lot of times I don't mess with it. It can cause you more issues than what it's saving you. On the dryer here, I will run some through it because it's not that big of a deal. It's going to go right through the discharge, through the condenser, through the receiver, and then through the filter dryer. Wet regs so we don't damage the filter dryer on the last video. Not going for perfect de-burring since we're not flaring it because if you get scratches in there like I just did there, that can screw your flare all up. These are one of the few, half inches, one of the few that we don't have to rotate, otherwise you're going to rotate it a few times. They're not the deepest socket, but if you're brazing it, it's not a humongous deal. Notice I've got some leakage going out of that thing which kind of sucks. Those don't work very good. I think it works good on stuff that's not very aged. Get that on up there like that. So we'll go to there with that. See that? Nothing falls in there and it rounds over the edge a little bit. Cleaner the better, the better it flows and we'll end up swedging the upper half. That way, everything's pulling down into the pocket or socket. Small amount, maybe an eighth of an inch gives you a perfect round because when you pump that up you can see that has got little potential gaps in between there. And that rotates it so they're equally pressed on each side. We can open up our gauges here and pull the blower in through here. Like I said, I do it when I feel as though it's needed. See it comes through the high side. The cylinder is closed. Now there's hardly any. There's a little bit there, but not near what was there before. Look at that. Pull all the way around without even hardly doing anything. We have a little shot here on the back side. That makes it so easy. That was worth buying in my own handle because like I said, my handle was a Victor before and, wow, that just pulled down in there beautiful all the way around. Go ahead and get this one here. There we go. So I got that and you can see the oil and stuff that's burning off that was in the piping. That's, like I said, all nitrogen. I'm not going to be able to get the tree blues on there anyway. So let's go ahead and get a little feed through the high side there. We'll pull it out on top here. I love how they quit painting that on. So if they make a mistake, all they got to do is I mean, they're stamping it still at least, but they're not painting it on anymore. Lean this back a touch. There we go. Problem I've found with any of this stuff, whether it's wet rags, true wet rags, wet rag, the stuff, whatever. You've got to be able to get your heat into that pocket and when you put this stuff right up against it, not only does it destroy it, which is what it's made to do, but I hate wasting it for things like this where it don't necessarily matter a lot, other than losing the paint. It screws you up to the point where you can't get the heat into the pocket and it takes twice as long to get your grays in there. And that's what I don't like. I mean, why did they skimp so much and use such a short stub? Why didn't they make it a little longer like some of the other manufacturers? That's what I hate about this design. It's just asking for problems. Who am I? I'm just some guy on YouTube. Now, when you're doing this, you've got to be careful that you don't get that heat up there on that. That's the only thing that kind of sucks. So you've got to be really careful of that. So I got that one. See, you can't quite get it. It's not going to work. Put that heat up right here and we're going to try to pull it down to there. So once I've seen that thing start to get a little bit red, we're going into that next spot there. I'm already starting to burn that there. Just try to put a little bit in there and you really can't get it to there. There we go. But look, it's not wanting to pull down into that pocket very good at all. It's just laying on top. That's what I hate. That's my complaint. So you just sacrificed the wet rag for it. You got to watch it burn and all that stuff up above. It's cooling the joint down, too, which makes it very difficult. You got to start overheating it all back up again. We got it in there. But you've totally toasted this right here on your stuff. See, I was just playing on, throwing all that away. This is where I think sometimes a paper towel would be better. Truly a paper towel. If you put it on there, it's thin and it won't catch on fire if it's wet. And it actually does a fairly good job. Believe it or not, there's this guy I work with. That was the one thing I kind of learned off him. I don't know if he just happened to pick it up out of the comic books or what, but it actually works pretty good. All right, so you can see that it still took it down to the metal. I'm not going to waste my time on the other one. Get her hot, get her hot fast, get on and get off. That's my philosophy on anything I do when I braze. Shoot the heat down away from it as best you can and pull it on up. A lot of times it does just as good. It just depends on the situation. If it's TXV and stuff like that, I'm willing to sacrifice whatever I got to for that. Looks like I pulled up there really nice. I'm going to go ahead and put this on here that way. I can pull the vacuum on the compressor part a little bit easier. It's time to get the old nylog out. Get some of these fittings back together and get this thing pulled in a vac. Got the 4 CFM Navac cordless pump over there. Got the blue vac hoses there. This should make quick work of it. As always, you want to lubricate your flare fittings like this. I got a little bit on the back side of the nut. This is the most important is the back side of the nut. That way she goober-fies. I'd really like to see a Schrader core in that. Let's see if they didn't already crush it. They may have already crushed it so much they may not be able to throw that in there. Yeah, I see somebody crushed it. That's what happens when you over tighten the flare fitting. Now I can get in there with a drill bit and drill it out. A lot of times I'll twist this wire and just unwind it without cutting it but because this wire is so hard I mean it's look at that. I mean that thing's like it's ridiculously stiff. Boy that just it's a shitty setup no matter what you look at it is. We're going to do a pressurization on the suction here at the compressor which is where we'll pull from my vacuum but for pressure test wise I'm going to go ahead and basically pressing backwards through the suction line through the TXV and up to that solenoid valve because the solenoid valve is closed right now or because it's not energized we could we probably will. Let's go ahead and pull our magnet out not a freaking joke that ain't fricking rusted to shit there. Now to be safe with that we'll stick a piece of metal in there screwdriver whatever that way it doesn't get fried if by chance I forget that it's not plugged in not seeing any leaks doesn't mean that all these switches aren't going bad but you don't have any leaks on anything I worked on I do not think that this is going to work yeah it won't work there's no way I can do that off of that I could do it off of that one right there but honestly I've seen a whole system done off one suction side even on a big cooler like this all off of the suction port at the evaporator this has been the oil has been used on a couple of poles so far we're at 4700 microns stopwatch is at 4 minutes and 38 seconds 14 microns a second and a negative going down which is good that's on the furthest from the suction side all the way through the system and back to that we're going to have a little bit of time pulling down on this I guarantee it I would have liked to pull it from both sides but with that little that's kind of difficult to get into and the hoses are sometimes difficult I'm trying to get me some 90 degree angle ones for when I get in tight spots like this because that's definitely something you need going to put some wire ties on here to help hold these wires up right in here with this other nasty oil see how it acts now with the right amount of oil and the new oil see what pulls down any quicker the good thing is we're holding right in there at 1600 so far we've only went up about 25 microns I think it's doing a little better it's down to 2 microns a second we're pulling a lot of refrigerant and stuff out of the oil that's the problem with these stupid dryers Sporlin' come on guys I mean really, look at that got a little bit of big blue on it and it wipes your thing right off you need to go back to printing it on I'm starting to go bad that battery did not last very long we're at 974 microns and I only got about a total run time 34 minutes out of it so Navac I'd really like to have another battery that's not good so we're going to go ahead and kill that and we're going to yank this battery now what I did do is I bought a adapter so that I don't have to use their battery this will probably void your warranty but you know, this is what it is here's a 6 plenty of juice to get the job done and we're still dropping even though I've got it valved off which is awesome and move it over to the other device we're down to 689 microns I'm about ready to just say screw these things and just run it without the cable just needs cleaned up there's your start relay that wasn't looking very good cut that out of there she's holding it at 670 I'm happy with that we're going to break the vacuum with some refrigerant that's a power hungry hog I don't use it a lot so it's they've just gone bad settin' there I don't know I'm going to put a heavier duty contactor on there this is a 40 amp gives us a little more capacity it's three phase usually can't get a 40 amp capacitor to use or 40 amp contactor very easily in a single phase we're going to go ahead and mount that up so just go ahead and pop off to the second side here we'll go to one coil like I said we're just going to charge a little bit of liquid in here just to get it out of the vacuum we're not going to flood the compressor with it or anything else we're on 404 and let's zero it and let's put a little bit in there just a little bit just enough to get her out of a negative that's more than enough there we go so now we've got our gauge off we're good there that's just 12 ounces that's not going to hurt the compressor I didn't hammer it with liquid and wash all the oil out it's not running so not a huge deal and remove that from there and that way it'll all pump into the liquid receiver so our blood goes up to there and now we can dump it in still only 13 ounces so there's the rest of that we'll close off the suction and we'll let it dump as much as we can dump into the receiver we'll just isolate this we'll go ahead and pull that out and get the straighter core back in there once we get down to temperature we're going to check our superheat make sure the valve is set correctly that'll come in handy as an extra suction port for later if we need to do a quick test the new systems are even worse to deal with because you can't get into any of it not going nowhere there we go there we go I don't want it rubbing into the discharge I mean some of this stuff is just the way it was before and that's not really the way I like it this wire here I think we're probably going to have to take it out of the jacket we may just run it through one of these rounded edges and I seldomly ever use that armored wire like that so I'm not really needing it I'm pretty sure that's an okay area because that's rounded wire for some sort of reason and that's going to give me enough room to get to my relays and all that stuff it will be good to go on that that is not just sharp on the edge it has literally been punched in and rounded by the factory spot for a little divot on our relay to fit right there use the tapping Phillips we need to get these mounted up I like these flat self tapping Phillips screws they tend to tap into anything and they're flat and nice so they don't get caught on stuff not touching anything, they're not going nowhere there we go that works better than flopping around inside there like it was prior to me getting here good deal, but the way this works we got power coming into the top one of the leg goes right to the coil comes up to the low pressure switch out of the low pressure switch comes down to either that pressure switch there or that temperature switch which I think it's the pressure switch because it's a fat lead fat lead comes back, it's inside here needs a junction, then you have a thin little wire that goes to the temperature sensing switch confusing as hell because you can't tell which one's which because I bundled them together, which is my fault these two right here, they're the lightest gauge ones so you come to these light gauge ones this one, the other one goes straight up to the coil which is the other side of the coil so we know that these two here need to tie together why? because they're in series with one another that's it for that because the way this works is basically this thing's wired to run all the time until the low pressure switch the high pressure switch or the temperature switch shuts it down we did get 9 pounds and a half into it then we'll stop there at that we now have to get voltage, high voltage down here to from the contactor to this which I'm going to reuse some of these nice heavy duty wires they had before then you've got the fans and stuff on the very bottom of it and then they also tie it in with the fan cycle switch breaking one leg of those and we only got one fan so it's only one one to shut down so there's that one that is going to be the red wire going down to there so we want to tie on to that one right there we'll just junction it to the top of that capacitor which I don't particularly love but it will work just fine there's your power leads got a heavier contactor than normal, need to run one screw in there to mount that a little bit better and we'll go ahead and peel this sticker off and stick it on the inside here contactor secured we're about ready to roll this dog yep let's get some of this mist cleaned up and we'll do that there we go I think what happened was that one wire nut wasn't in there good enough we're 208, 209 volts coming down to the bottom 208, 209 volts we're good on that let's put her in deep frost make sure it kicks out pressure switch is good in case it starts raining you guys always seem to love this I found this on another YouTube channel it's come in here and we do not have all I did is put it up there against it and we do not have any magnetic field so we know that our solenoid is disengaged kick her back out of deep frost she just released she just kicked on about 20 something I'll have to use an analog gauge on that turn the light on how in the world did that get well it's blunt cold so it must have hopefully it's got a fan delay it's working right that's good to know that's good to know we have a heat exchanger unit there we've got a boned TX-V and that bulb is inside there and it has weird head pressure control it's set for negative 10 fan kicked on once got some flood back obviously coming back it seems the cycle ass is actually full look at that we don't have a headmaster on it so no headmaster yet we have that bone miser it's definitely a screw deal there's one video where I did it and I had to call in on it because I had not seen that yet it was before I got into the refrigeration stuff but basically the TX-V takes care of low ambient control which is really unusual to me for not being used to it so we're going to tie on to this fan pressure control we're going to bypass it and we're going to let that fan run the whole time now that's a special gator there I made this wire which is good for at least 10 to 15 amps so we're just going to let this thing run full bore and we're going to get that cyclist full she just finally went solid at about 14 and a half I'll go ahead and dump a little more in we're going to pump it down see where we're at on the receiver and kind of get it set up the old traditional cheater method there we're running a 73 degree condensing temperature in this weather out here which it ain't too bad today but see there it's flashing off that bone miser is trying to make up for it all right so I had to get a refresher on the bone miser it doesn't need that 100 pound drop that some of them do it's coming and going every now and again it's solid right now there you go now you can see it we're running a 63 degree condensing temperature with a negative 12th evaporator we're going to go ahead and put a little more in there then I'm going to set the fan cycle back to normal and let her roll we're going to wait until she gets down close to the box temp before we screw it too much now we're back here that bone miser you can see the bulb is actually in suction and it's able to like I said run at lower head pressure and still be able to maintain super heat we are running right here 132 on the head pressure 20 on the suction which is a negative 14 suction temperature inside the box is 10 running a 24 degree super heat surprisingly I'm actually getting some sub cooling right down there on that and all we're doing is marrying the gauges here just makes it a little easier to see that's super heat we can't trust that until we get to box temperature I won't even touch it until I'm at least zero if it's cooler I'm not doing anything until I'm at 35 area 38 40 somewhere in that ballpark no more than 40 but I prefer 38 35 somewhere in that area where it's going to be about ready to shut off almost do a little cheat here we are at 7 amps 7.1 our run 5.9 and I'd have to pull the specs up to see what it is on that thing yeah we're solid on the cyclist we're going to put the fan cycle back to it he couldn't remember why he did it but he knew there was something some sort of reason it's been over a year ago but anyhow the system is working it's dropping a temp which is beautiful it's a fun waiting game so I've got it somewhere around 10 11 12 it fluctuates we've dropped down to 10 degrees in here it was 11 there's 9 it's already starting to drop faster now that we're feeding more through you can also see how much more it's feeding that coil that's right at 10 it'll work at that even so I'm about tempted to stop there since we're so close I mean we're already 9.5 it's dropping fast it's dropping really fast you know what something I just thought of it's got a strainer right there we need to pump this thing down test the defrost anyway let's check that strainer make sure it's all right okay she should pump down start going in defrost should be pumped down far enough that we should be able to pop that open okay so right there it is holding it up to light there really ain't nothing in it we're good so we did at least check the strainer and we are fine and we're gonna look at that brass when I'm done here and I'm gonna show you that the son of a gun is not messed up lucky there not one damn mark on that thing nothing that's brass brass is soft I can hear it ticking so it must be getting warm it's hard to feel anything in here when it's 15 degrees already so I'm gonna leave it at that we're at 10 to 11 degrees for heat by the time it hits 0 to negative 5 it should be somewhere around 6 to 8 area we should be good we've got a new filter dryer in there we've got the screen checked the screen is good that's about as much as anybody else would ever do so I think we're good to go alright one last thing I better do here is check my on and off pressures I just kicked it out of that defrost and it didn't come on right away alright let's focus on the cut in okay wanted at 22 there just a squishy hair bless just to be safe okay now going to pump down again boom about 22 exactly beautiful there's 5 4 probably right there would be great right there would be better okay so we're right there at it we're just about a pound or two a little bit more so that way I know it's going to shut off while it's still in a positive but at the same time it's not going to short cycle back and forth when summer time comes let's kick it out of that it is 420 let's get her at 4 o'clock area and get out of here those guys are ready to go home so am I call it our day alright if you guys enjoyed the video and you want to see more like it please give it a thumbs up and we'll catch you on the next one thanks for watching later