 Hello, everybody, and welcome to another hobby-cheating video, and today we're going to paint some new-ish skeletons, and we're going to use some noosh. It's speed-painting skeletons. It's going to be fun. Let's get into it. The strict techno-mancer that is Vinci Vee. Let us get into the technique and learn it Vinci Vee's done. Long time viewers of the channel will know that I have a very large Tomb Kings army. In fact, I spent years back during Warhammer Fantasy painting up just immense amounts of Tomb Kings. I think I had something like 13,000 points when Warhammer Fantasy came to a close. I loved everything about them. I had bought Tomb Kings initially when they came out in 2004, so I have lots of skeletons and archers. I have a ton of sphinxes, more Ushabti than maybe anybody. I don't know. I have a lot. When this box, oh boy, that thing, it's heavy, arrived at my door, I was pretty excited. Ironically, the one thing I don't have a ton of is regular skeleton warriors. I was always more fascinated by the big snakes, the chariots, everything like that. I have more than 20 chariots, more than 20 Ushabti, all these kinds of things. I thought this would be a good chance with this new box full of the same old models that I had to do some more experimentation with the skeletons. Today, we're going to speed-paint up some skeletons. We're going to try to make them look nice. The goal is to get 20 skeletons, a nice size unit, done fast. We're going to also use Procrill's newest product, NUSH, to do that. Let's head over to the desk and we're going to basically speed our way through these. I'm going to start with just they're all primed black. Nothing special. This is just black primer. When I'm doing this tutorial, there's no airbrush, there's no nothing like that. We're going to keep it simple. I want to make sure this is something that everybody else could do. I start by just doing a nice, heavy, dry brush of brown all over them. Here, I'm using the Warm Brown from Procrill because it'll be a great base tone for our skeletons as we build them up. Most anything you could do with an airbrush for this kind of thing, like for just base coating them and as we're going to eventually pseudo-Xenothal them with later steps, you can do all of this with a nice soft makeup brush for a dry brush as well and so that's what I do here. Now, this first coat, I'm working very thick. I don't wipe much off the brush. As you can see, I'm really just slapping it around the model. All of my models, by the way, are set up on paint sticks so you can go to your local hardware store and you can just get these sticks. They're basically usually free from like the Home Depot or Lowe's or whatever's near you and then you just take some double-sided tape, run it down there, stick all your models to it. Now you've got them all in a nice row, easy to work on, especially when you're trying to do speed painting tasks like this. I know it seems silly, but it's really nice to just be able to move around whole like stacks of almost 20 models basically at one clutch. Once they're all brown and we're good to go there, then it's time for the next step. The next step is I'm going to take some vampiric flesh now, and this is the thing. When you're painting skeletons, do not limit yourself to a color that says bone. I really cannot emphasize this enough. Things that look anywhere in this range but that have more browns or yellows or flesh tones in them will all be fine and look good. In fact, we'll add a lot of interesting tonal variation in hue to your skeleton. In this case, vampiric flesh is this wonderful warm, it's got a little bit of orange in it, it's great. We just drybrush that, but when I'm doing this, this is still a relatively heavy drybrush, but I'm working specifically down. My drybrush is always pulling down. I don't go back up. I only come down the model, not back up. Lots of sweeps just over them from the top, again just basically turning the skeletons, sort of white from above. If you flip them over, you can still see a decent amount of that brown in the recesses and in the sort of under shaded parts. One note here is I do work rather quickly, but I am still building it up. You'll notice I don't have a huge amount of paint on the drybrush for this step. I'm relying on hitting the model many times, not one pass to deploy a lot of the paint. I think that's where a lot of people can sometimes go wrong. The other thing I'll just quickly note here is that in all these drybrushing steps, I'm not using a paper towel. I'm using these specialized wipes that you can buy for nail polish. They're really soft and only moderately absorbent, so they actually just sort of take the paint without sapping all the liquid out. I really like them as a wipe for drybrushing. My wife gave them to me and they're excellent for this purpose. I'll link those down in the description so you can check them out. Once that step is done, that then brings us to basically a closer to white, very light drybrush. Here I'm using off-white and I just give them a very light touch, focusing really mostly on above. So this is their heads, their shoulders, their arms, the kneecaps that when their knees are jutting out a lot. I don't know why these guys are always just like hot stepping like they're in the middle of a jazz routine, but basically those very raised areas. With all that done, now we've got some skeletons. They look fine, but we can go a step farther because they still look a little rough. They're still too much of a little of that dark brown black from the primer, still showing through in a lot of areas. We want to give them a nice coat of actual tone, some warmth. These are meant to be skeletons in the desert, by the way. So now we're going to do some nush. All right. So the nush. This is a new product from Pro Acryl and it's basically a, meant to replace a sort of medium that very much extends working time. It is not really like a very runny substance. It's a little bit more like a thick medium. And I'm going to mix it here. I started three to one, but I actually found the right ratio was four to one. So I'm going to mix it again with the warm brown, the original, but that warm brown is going to function differently when put over the whites that I've dry brushed as opposed to the original black of my primer. And it's going to create a nicer gradient, especially down in the recesses and the shadows. So I mixed basically the paint to the nush at a four drops of nush to one drop of paint. And then you clench, because we're just going to slap it on there. And so I just coat this bad boy in this sort of nush paint mix and you can see it looks like I just ruined all of my good work. But I didn't. I then take some makeup sponges and simply wipe it away. Now I let it sit. I experimented with how long to let it sit to get the effect. And I found at the four to one ratio, I wanted it to sit for basically no more than about a minute, maybe two minutes at most. I found that was a pretty good amount of time. Now, the more nush you mix in, the longer the working time will be. And even this I'm wiping this way with a dry makeup sponge at the moment. And I can pull most of it off. Really, the biggest problem is actually getting in some of the tight spaces on some of these models. If I was working on like a space frame or something where it's much more open and exposed, it would be a lot easier. But here I found it was really easy to just get in there and wipe it away with the dry thing. When I moved to working on all the guys on the stick, I did five at a time and then wiped them and then five at a time and then wiped them and five at a time and then wiped them and so on. And I found that was a good sort of that gave me a naturally correct working time. I'll also note with the nush that not only can you get this nice clean wipe away and then as you're wiping it, you do if you let it dry that about a minute or so, you get this really nice gradient down to where the paint remains. It actually gives you a pretty smooth transition down in there of wiped correctly. But if you have any rough transitions, I was also able to go in with the brush, just a wet brush. I just go in with a wet, large brush and I can then clean other places up, streak it down, take it out, remove it, wipe the brush on something, get it wet again, wipe away. I found that working time was more in like the five to 10 minute range. I could do that with a wet brush. So it's still got I still got quite a bit of working time out of that. There, like you couldn't drive wipe it away anymore, but now you could just use the the wet brush and we were good to go. So all in all, I think the nush and this really isn't meant to be a full nush review. You know, we'll probably talk about it some more in future videos as I'm going to continue experimenting with it. But I thought I'd let you join me on the experimentation and we'd speed paint some skeletons at the same time. But all in all, I really liked it. It had a nice effect. I'm keen to play with it some more. And I think it really could replace streaking grime or something similar without working with any kind of toxic, harsh, stinky chemicals. So that's actually really cool and got me pretty excited. All right. So now it's time to just finish these bad boys out with most of the bone done. And I built these skeletons as kind of the simplest I could to minimize additional nonsensory and doodads and bajangles and things. So, you know, I like to keep it easy, but I did go back in and I gave it a light dry brush of again, the vampiric flesh plus a little the off-white. So kind of a 50-50 mix of the two. Again, just focusing on really like the top of the head, the shoulders, knuckles, things like that, just to make sure that that all those areas were picked out. And there was some brightness to the edge of it. When I did see with the new she's just like with streaking grime and this is true for oil washes. This is true for enamel paints. This is true for working with the new she the lighter the color you're working over, the more likely there is to be some kind of staining effect just because you can't wipe everything away at the molecular level. Some amount of paint is going to seep into the the chemical substrate of the lower level of paint. But this just gave it a little bit more pop. Once that was done, then it was time to turn to the other areas. The when I originally did my Tomb Kings army, I was using I think like Vallejo turquoise basically. But now in the modern age, we have contrast paints. Specifically, we have Achillean green, which I'm neither working on anything to do with Eidnath nor anything is this paint green. It's a blue. It's a blue turquoise color and I love it. And it's basically a perfect match. So all the spear halves basically get that any kind of little details and then their shields are obviously going to be the turquoise a note on the shields themselves. I wanted them to have a sort of sun bleached texture. So I actually just as I was doing the original dry brushing with the vampiric flesh in the white, I just heavily stippled onto the shields first the vampiric flesh around then the off white then some more vampiric flesh around the thing just very quickly just banging a large brush up and down the the rank of the 20 of them on the the sticks are on the stick. And then when you put the Achillean green over that, you get this wonderful like sun bleached blue effect. It looks like a car that sat out in the sun too long. I really like it as sort of an effect for textured paints. You'll see how it all looks in the end when it all comes together. I then use some gold. Now when I had done these guys originally, I used Vallejo liquid gold. So I actually did the same thing here just to keep them consistent with my original paint scheme as it were Vallejo liquid gold as gubertown hobbies recently pointed out is really interesting because unlike most paints, it's not using a dye. It's using aluminum pigment but also copper and zinc pigment. So it's not using a dye to change anything. I don't really think there's anodization of the aluminum there. It's just using the combination of those three hyper finely ground pigments in an alcohol based suspension to create that sheen of fine metal. So it is a really interesting color and I have to say I liquid gold is a real giant pain to work with and God did I run into that again. I really hate this paint because it dries so fast. It gets gummy instantly. You can't use water. You have to use alcohol, but it does produce a unique effect. I will completely give it that with that step done. There's just a little bit of final cleanup and things like that. So this is going back in with some of the vampiric flesh or the white hitting some of those things. I took some Grishnex sewer and hit some of the torn pieces on the shield of the deep slices things like that and then of course doing the desert bases up which was just sand and then washed and drybrushed. But all in all these guys came together in about three hours of working time. So not bad. A full unit of 20 dudes. I don't know how many points they're worth. Not enough, but that's okay. And so I was happy to get this unit on the table and yeah, they're like basically with those simple steps and less than three hours. I had a full unit of 20 ready to go. Let's take a look at the unit. Here they are. I mean, I really think they came out pretty fun and cool for being less than three hours of work on 20 models. That's really not too bad. You know, I had 180 minutes roughly in that time period divided by 20 models. That means I had not a lot of time like less than 10 minutes per model basically. So for that amount of time, I'm actually pretty pleased with the result. Are they rough? Yeah, sure. But they're also a base troop you're supposed to have 40 or 80 of and when they're all together in their beautiful rank and file legitimately, I think they look pretty cool and I always loved the look of Tomb Kings when they're all ranked up with their turquoise elements and stuff. And so I think these guys will fit into my old army and continue to build out my skeletons. So there you go. I'll probably do some more stuff with the old world in the future. So stay tuned if you want to see more of that painted. But if you liked this, give it a like. 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