 And I'm gonna work just off the edge of the eyebrow. So kind of the height of the eyebrow here. All right guys, what's up? Welcome to today's video. Today I'm gonna share with you guys how to cut a wedge haircut. This is gonna be super fun and I'm gonna try to make the technique as simple as possible because this isn't a complicated haircut. The sectioning is super important. So we're gonna go over the sectioning step by step. Also, some of the tools that I use, I'm gonna use a tri-razor today in some parts of this haircut. I'm gonna use scissors in other parts of this haircut as well. So we're gonna really mix up the tool choice because that'll give us different textures within the cut. So I hope you guys are as excited as I am. Let's get started with the cut. Here we go. The sectioning, I'm gonna go straight back on the head shape. Now, if your client wears a left-hand side parting, right-hand side parting, or center parting, doesn't really matter at the beginning of this cut. At the end, when we go to cut the top, then we really kind of need to know. For now, I'm gonna start this cut on a left-hand side parting. For a wedge haircut, I like it with a little bit of a side parting. So we're gonna start off, comb everything straight back, and I'm gonna work just off the edge of the eyebrow. So kind of the height of the eyebrow here, and I'm gonna take my line straight back. So I go through here. Now I've got it sectioned at the parting, straight down on the left-hand side. Parietal ridge sits about here. So I go just a little bit above parietal ridge, and that's where I take that parting. Now, when we move to the sides of the head, I wanna separate front and back. When we talk about front and back, we look at the hair density and how it plays a role in the cut. So you've got density that goes all the way down here in the hairline. Hair line flows down. This becomes a thicker point in our head because we have more hair to work with. As we work towards the front, the hairline goes up, and then we have less hair to work with as we work into the side. So what we wanna do is we wanna separate those two points with a straight down vertical line that goes right in to that hairline. So that should match up. Then I take the rest of this hair, I comb it forward, and I'm gonna clip it away. Now we're gonna do the same thing on the opposite side. It's just getting everything flowing and moving in the direction that I'm gonna be taking the partings later on in the cut anyways. And now, the most important part is how you section the back. So we've got the front and the back sectioned out. Now I'm gonna draw a line straight down, center back. We're gonna go straight down, center back, and draw a line. So my parting is here. And this is where a lot of people like continue it over and then drop it down. Because I've separated front and back, all this hair is basically gonna wanna fall to the sides. All this hair is gonna wanna fall to the back for the most part. So I can just go straight down, center back with my parting. All right, so why is the back so important? Because this, a wedge is a very stacked up haircut. So what I don't wanna do is stack too high. So it's really just playing off of this occipital bone area. So when I look at where do I wanna section and where do I wanna cut this wedge to? Because I'm gonna look at this as a vertical line that's gonna move just like this, straight up the head. So where the stack's gonna happen, see where the head peels away right there? That's where the hair is gonna start to stack. And then the rest of this disconnection is gonna kind of fall over it and build a little bit extra weight and length. So I don't wanna go too low because I don't wanna have it too oaky in the back. And I don't wanna go too high to lose that kind of disconnect which is what's gonna make this kind of have a modern feel. Here we go. So we're gonna start by working straight down, center back. So what I wanna do is I wanna draw this vertical line like this, comb the hair over and I'm gonna start working at the top and work my way down. The reason I wanna start working at the top is because I want to pick my length at this point. This is gonna be my basis for the whole haircut is right here. So what length do I want that to be? So I'll take another vertical parting and I'll comb the right side out of the way. Now I've got this little bit right here. So now bring this hair out and I decide what do I want that length to look like? You want it to be pretty short. Some people go through here and even cut with a clipper. For me it's a little more machine made with the line. I like to start this line here and then continue cutting that line. Now I'm not following the head shape, I'm following the line that I wanna create. So right in here. So here's the biggest question at this point. What is the over direction? So my over direction is just to the previous, not even all the way over. So bringing that previous section halfway to the new, I wanna travel across the back of the head. I'm not trying to build up too much length in the corners at this point. So I don't want there to be too much over direction. Now this is where that over direction will happen a little bit more because the round of the head is starting to peel away. And that's where for me, this cut's gonna be a little more personalized rather than using a clipper. If I use the clipper I could go straight up like this and cut through it, which would be fine, but we tend to round a little bit more with a clipper. So then you lose the length over here and I wanna have a little bit of that extra length. Let's move on to the other side of the head. And now here's the biggest change. So when we cut the left hand side of the head, our fingers are pointing, so let's say we take our parting, we're cutting towards the left hand side. Our thumb is moving in the direction that we're going. When I go to cut the right hand side of the head, I flip my hand and now my fingers are pointing down, but my thumb is pointing in the direction that I'm going. So anytime you're gonna be pushing your new hair towards the guideline, right? So if I'm taking the new section and the new parting pulling it to the guideline, my thumb needs to be pointing in the direction I'm going. If you're gonna change that up, that changes the rule a little bit. The rule is if you're pulling new hair to the guide, you want the thumb going in the direction you're moving. So I was going this way, now I'm going this way and cutting from top. So now I'm cutting from bottom to top. That's why I started on the left hand side because I wanted to cut from top to bottom to start it out because I wanted to determine this length first. So now I'll spray a little H20. So here I take a vertical line again, just like I did on the opposite side, comb this hair over, get it out of the way. Now I'm gonna comb up into the hair. My fingers are pointing down. This is why it's important to have a strong guideline. I can see it through the hair there. So I work my way up and cut through. This is the hardest part right here because what you're gonna want to do with your hands is shift to become more comfortable. You're gonna wanna twist and bend your fingers and you can't because the more you twist and bend it changes the lengths of the hair. Now what I'll do is just do a little checking. So when I look at this hair should see a slight kind of beveled rounded edge to the hair. Just continue, I wanna check this corner here. You see that this came back a little bit further. That's that over direction that I was talking about as the head starts to round around. That creates that little bit of extra length in the haircut. So guys, that's how you create that underneath. So now we are going to cut the crown area or the back of the head, the top back of the head. You can see where that splits. That's that split splitting it in half front to back. I'm going to be taking a vertical section straight down center back to start this and we're going to continue pretty much the same exact shape that we created on the underneath. We're just going to have extra length in the haircut. So I've got this vertical section here. It's about a half inch wide. I don't want to go more than that because I don't want to create too much over direction. So now I want to continue this line. So if I continue this line straight up what's going to happen? It's going to fall and be a little bit collapsed but it will have some graduation in the top part of the section. What I mean by that is you've got to look at why, when weight builds up. When weight builds up it's below 90 degrees. 90 degrees is straight out from the head. So you look at how 90 degrees kind of shifts and plays out. So this is 90 degrees here. 90, 90, 90, 90, 90, right? So at this point and I cut the hair here I'll build up weight. If I'm at this point here and I cut the hair here I'll build up weight. Now if I'm at this point and I cut the hair here I'm not building up weight. So you've got to decide what I think about it is I remove weight, remove weight and then where do I want to start to add it to create this shape? Sometimes I'll take my client just like this in the mirror and she's got her head. I'll make sure it's straight on with the mirror and I'll look at this shape that I want to build up and I think about with the comb where I want to place that weight that will look the best on her head shape. So when I look at this here and I look at her chin or her jawline I think about, okay, well if this shape if it's flattened here it doesn't look right with her jawline. If it has a little bevel and a little weight buildup it looks great with her jawline it starts to extend the head shape out just a little bit and makes it more symmetrical. If they don't have a strong chin, right? And I don't want to build too much weight back here because it's going to look like she's getting, you know, along with the fan backwards, right? If she's got a strong jawline and her chin shoots out a little bit I don't mind balancing out and building it out just a little bit. What I'm doing here is I want to start building that weight. Now what does that mean? How do I do that? So as I go here if I drop my angle like this I build up more weight. So now you can kind of see how that weight's going to build up and how it's going to get a little bit heavier. If I go more straight up parallel to the wall the weight's not going to build up till up here. I want to build a little extra weight out in this haircut. So I'm going to come here out to my hand and now I'm going to start building up that weight line. And now I'm bringing this new section halfway over to that previous section. I got my line from underneath that I can see. So now because of the head shape we start to get a movement horizontally within the weight. So take a look at this here. Everything came back straight back to me. I didn't cut it differently from an angle standpoint. Everything came straight back. But because the head shape curves around over direction changes. You're working on a round. So if I pull this here it's obviously only going from this point to this point. But if I take this hair it's started to work its way around the round of the head. Now it's coming back to this point here. So it's going to sit longer. So back previously, back to the previous section just a little bit over direction, back to the right. You'll see a lot of different ways of cutting this on the internet. One of the ways that I've seen is that they just follow this line and cut it and it becomes very heavy. For me, I'm going to use the tri razor and I'm going to take diagonal forward partings and I'm going to slide through it, just glide through it. It'll remove, it'll create softer lines. It'll do everything I want it to do all at the same time. So what I'm going to do is actually I'm going to work the weak side first which is our part side. Why I call it the weak side is because it's got less hair. Okay, so what I'm going to do is I'm going to draw a diagonal line and that line is going to follow the jaw line. So what I want to do is I want to bring this hair back and then you've got your line that you created. So you could, if you need to take a guide, you can see that guide through it, right? Now I let that guide fall out because I don't really care. I just need that little starting point and then I take my 100% cutting and I just softly work through it at about one inch pattern, drawing this kind of forward line. So here we go again, follow the jaw line. Look at the jaw here and that's what my parting is going to be. Now, this is where the beauty of the tri-raiser comes in. As we hold the hair here, now what am I going to do? I'm going to take this 25 texture and I'm going to go about mid-shaft to ends and I'm going to cut through it once. That takes out 25% of the hair. Then I go through with the 100% and I follow that guide. What that's doing is it's softening this edge even more. Let's the hair kind of flow back, see how that's already becoming a cool looking haircut. Again, same thing. And this gets a little bit weaker. So I don't need to do the 25 texture because you can see right here, the hairline goes up and over. This is the weakest part of the hair right here in this triangle corner. So what I'm going to do is I'm just going to play with that, over-direct everything back to me and swipe through with the 100% cutting. All right, so again, follow the jaw. I'll do a couple sections until we start to get to this round. Then I'll start working that 25 texture in. Now we're on the round. So we've crossed that parietal ridge area. So the hair is getting heavier and heavier as we go. I'm going to blow dry, start the style. This is going to be asymmetrical at this point because obviously I'm over-directing this all the way over, so it's coming from this point. So it's going to fall longer than this side, which I didn't over-direct barely at all. So what I'll do is once I get the haircut blown dry smoothed out, then I'll start to go in and balance both sides and see where I'm at with my texture and everything. But for the most part, we're getting close. So you see that kind of wedged up effect, but we're going to get it blown dry. I'm going to use Palmichol Sculpting Foam for this style. So I go through here, same thing with my iron work. So I've got the iron set at about 360. Actually, I'm going to turn that up to 380. And I'm thinking like just adding a little curve to it.