 hey guys welcome to the very first video of the let's call it the project swap and today we're going to remove the engine step number one remove the battery that includes disconnecting the battery drain the coolant there's a plug on passenger side right underneath the radiator undo that wait for it to drain or remove the big hose the bottom hose and drain the coolant that way so battery gone remove the obvious hoses here and there remove the radiator plate the two mounts went back in the trunk the filter coolant is still draining always a mess top radiator hose still got to do the bottom radiator hose and unplug the fans which is one guy here and I think there is another yeah there is a harness right on both sides so remove those and this whole thing is ready to be removed this is the radiator plug I was talking about now I actually undid this fully and the coolant did not drain it was just stuck in there which you do you open up any of these plugs and it's gonna start coming down next we're gonna remove the the inner cooler this should be easy enough one bolt 12 mil here another 12 mil on the other side this hose obviously not gonna remove the blowout valve I'm gonna remove this hose the eight mil here I want to save on this gasket I know it's new I think the bolt on this yeah it's right underneath why is this oily huh we got oil that's an interesting it's probably coming out of the intercooler look at this you see this huh I guess good thing we're replacing the engine and there's another hose right there eight mil update all right intercooler out I actually did not remove the hose from the intercooler but from the engine intake and same over here from the turbo so this is how that looks and the bracket well this is custom whatever guy before me did this that did the swap so now that the intake side turbo the cold side turbo is now exposed put something in there I just happened to have a clean bag okay or some kind of paper whatever stick it in there so nothing falls in there and that's how that looks now okay as far as these guys go I'm gonna remove the belt AC belt undo this 12 mil here then you can loosen up this long bolt this will bring the tensioner up and you can remove the belt same thing for this guy you undo or just just loosen this 12 mil and then bring this up this will bring the alternator down and you can take this belt off the alternator is going to go for sure obviously you gotta unplug it unplug the air pump all these little connections over here so we can throw this this harness right on this side along with the ac compressor and I'm not sure yet if the air pump is going to have to get removed or it can stay not sure yet I'm thinking it's going to have to get removed so you have these clamps there's one clamp here there's a plug here there's a plug underneath the pump AC has to go because I don't want to empty the freon so it's just it's going to sit all this time it's just going to sit connected right over here in this area the power steering pump I usually take them out you can do the same thing to the pump because sometimes these bolts that hold the power steering pump they get stuck actually just by removing you know a pump that was never taken out you sometimes strip these threads aluminum threads easy to strip guys so when you tighten anything up just go easy okay so this I may also swing over to this side all right so the front area updates soon all right this is the ac tensioner not good needs to be replaced okay so I forgot to mention you to loosen this one up also so the alternator comes down all right so this harness it's kind of waiting on the compressor to be out so with it with the ac compressor compressor I'm gonna take well I can leave the bracket in because there's this one one nasty bolt that's way up there probably won't even see it all right good news on the air pump two bolts one here one here on the left side of it and this clamp that's it and then there's these resist this plug and that's it and it came out and we have a better look on that bolt that's behind that holds on the bracket the one that's vertical right in the dead center on your screen that's the bolt you need to take out if you want to remove the compressor with the bracket the difficulty of that rear bolt for the compressor bracket it's because on the all force to all sevens the intake is also in the way and this one not so much I guess the intake is a bit slimmer over here so you can actually have once you remove this I guess what is this the evap solenoid I'm guessing then you can on a kind of an extended swivel extension you can get to it it's a 14 mil so that's out right now that the compressor is free along with the bracket which is a plus remember this line stays so I'm going to remove the these fuel lines I believe this is the return this is the evap and this would be the feed this could be the feed I'm not sure but I believe I'm let's say 75 percent sure that this is the return so there are these special kind of tools it's these guys here let's see if this one will fit no this one will not fit because of this but the idea is you put it over the line and just shove it in there same thing with the bottom so I cannot use this actually which sucks but I can still undo these with a with two small flat screwdrivers just find the tabs there's going to be a tab I don't know you're probably not going to see it but there is right now I can see two tabs there's one here and one here just opposite opposite of each other just stick two flat screwdrivers in there light you know go easy on it and just kind of open them up and this should slide out this green clip will either stay or or go with it either way it doesn't matter once you install it is back you want to put the clip back into the line into this guy here and then it kind of clips in when you put it back in what we're going to be doing an e85 install remember so these are going to be different so you can either remove it if you're having a hard time with these remove them from here it's just a small clamp so either or okay I'm going to try it here because I'm going to remove it from here anyways so once these are out of the way then this ac hose will be nice and straight and I can rest this compressor right in here I should probably mention there's pressure in the system still so you can do two things either when you're ready to remove it put a rag whatever over the line so it doesn't fuel doesn't splash in your eyes or right before you start doing anything when it's still all together run the car and remove the ignition fuels or fuel pump fuels or relay what else you can remove maybe the crank sensor which is right here basically what you're trying to do is you're trying to kill the engine while it's still running so the fuel it still it kind of drains the fuel burns the fuel out of the lines that's that's pretty much it couldn't couldn't do it to leave this one on actually had no fuel pressure just a small drip so didn't even need my old shorts and that's what it looks like that's the two tabs that I was talking about moving on now from that corner all the way to the front and this side nothing is connected to the engine anymore moving on to the back we got the two hero hoses pretty self-explanatory two clamps twist them and then remove them and then we got the starter we got you got power here ground remove that and then there's two bolts on the starter yes you we can you know start removing you can remove all the bolts from the black the engine's not gonna move trust me okay then you can raise it whatever the engine or the transmission you know start removing it but you can remove everything every single bolt possible including the mounts everything and then you can attach the cherry picker or whatever you got so starter 14s then the slive cylinder here two 14s that's gonna stay here when I replace that then this pitch mount you can loosen this up remove this one and kind of point it up I loosen this 10 mil up so I can have a little bit more movement on the AC line but probably not necessary don't worry about this twist it's gonna be like that for months okay nothing's gonna happen it's gonna go back to its original shape now start tucking everything over towards the engine whatever you didn't remove vacuum lines harnesses whatever you've got come on to the other side so we can unbolt the damp pipe well you know we're gonna go underneath you're gonna unbolt the damp pipe from the mid pipe unbolt the damp pipe from the turbo and that's that's it all the oil lines and stuff like that stays you know not much on this side obviously you're gonna unplug this this is the power steering line here this this stays and just gotta undo the power steering pump and probably just swing it over here yeah here's the plug for the auto sensor I'm gonna unplug that no or can no it actually never mind it can it can stay okay so it's actually that's cool that's actually less work than the under 06 STI that is cool it might still be in the way see the auto sensor right there right to the right of my light it may hit the frame so we may have to remove that well yeah holy shit which is right here easy hero houses out like a dumbass forgot to put the pan underneath the hero houses and a lot of coolant spilled so to clean that up that took a while anyways the slave is off you don't need to take the slaves from there off because it sits on the transmission but just to have more access to the you know black and transmission I took it off pitch mount off loosen and did this up hero houses right here loose starter out it's gonna set it down for now all the bolts on it well besides two I'm gonna show you and this side we got the nuts and bolts for the turbo out there's one right underneath in this area you can only use a wrench on that which is also a 14 the open end the closed end on the wrench won't even fit but luckily for me that was loose that one that the nut also all but five bolts and the power steering pump were loose I mean one was out this far yeah that's the guy same guy that did the timing belt on the 2.5 the previous engine watch the other the first episode the introduction but yeah anyway so this is loose I already undid the mid pipe to the damp pipe but the guy put some kind of glue like this grayish cement thing whatever you connect or plug up exhaust holes with it or you can apply that on uneven exhaust flanges and whatnot and that's actually stuck together which is surprising so I need to kind of persuade it and the dump pipe will come off all that's left at this point is two nuts and the transmission to the black which are obstructed by both CV axles now you can I'll show you that's why I took the axle nuts off so I can take the axles out but you don't have to the axles go into the transmission I should have mentioned that before let's go down there so this is the exhaust that's that's the glue I'm talking about or some kind of silicone I don't know what the hell so 214 then it holds on on this bracket here that's still on it because that's glued then you gotta unplug this auto sensor from here I need a new creeper so actually undo the bottom bolt on the starter it's going to be easier for you to undo the this while the top mount top one still holds it then there's a bolt down there and this is the nut that I'm talking about I'm going to remove you can if you have a swivel it's easy if you got a swivel universal socket it's actually also easier I think on these the on the L6 STIs I'm going to remove the axles anyways so might as well remove them now same thing and this exactly the same thing on this side on the black and there is the turbo and this is the nut so total five on the turbo downpipe and that's the kind of a difficult one the auto sensor stayed because it's super tight tried the longest extension did not work just unplugged it I'm going to try and get it out if I can I'm going to have to heat it up and take it out and here are the nuts for the mounts there's one here and one on the other side and also accessible because of the sway bar on the L6 again sway bar is straight and you can't get away but it's easier to loosen up the sway bar on this one not necessary I think this guy served its purpose 15 years I think I had this thing I wonder if there's a date probably not fix the creeper all right guys everything is unbolted there's nothing else connecting the engine to the body and that well that it is connected to the transmission still but it's not bolted down anymore remove those axles which again you don't have to I'm going to let this drain overnight and the coolant still dripping making making a mess that's where the coolant is dripping from I'm going to plug it when I'm ready to remove it I'm going to plug it up exhaust is out so now I'm actually thinking I've I did so many engines you know obviously I got I got a check a cherry picker or an engine hoist I'm going to get me one of these hanging things between the engine and the engine hoist so I can tilt and whatnot tomorrow I'm going to call it a day today tomorrow we're going to think about where to mount it I always do find like a threaded hole on this side and across so in this case I would probably mount it there's a bolt hole right there so that's what I would or that there's another one there so I usually what I do is just run a a chain across and grab that chain and yank it out this is a very light engine so you know nothing to even if even if you're mounting to a 12 mil okay on one side it's not going to come out this here guys is a engine removing bracket plate and this mounts on top of the intake manifold once you take the carburetor off so this is nearly all v8 engines on the classic american muscle cars four 12 mil bolts or 12 mil half inch is what I mean that's it that's all that that's how big the studs are half inch which is similar to to a 13 and you know and this and they these guys pull the engine which is cast iron which is which also the the heads can be cast iron the intake itself can be cast iron with the transmission okay that's like 100 and hundreds of pounds and these both don't come out so what I'm saying is a 14 and a 12 that's what I've been always doing that's plenty for the two bolts to hold on to the to the engine via chain but like I said you know once always you pick the engine up you know you'll finally separate it from the transmission then it's all going sideways you know wants to spin and whatnot so that's just gonna I should have bought it bought it a long time ago so see you in a split second which is for me going to be tomorrow and we're back so this is what I bought this was 30 dollars I think by the one and only harbor fray pittsburgh the best so I actually just noticed like an idiot I attached this bolt to the transmission so what I'm going to do I'm going to remove this this line here and just put it there I actually had to chase these holes this one and this one not in use for some reason but they worked out all right so I'm going to switch that bolt that bracket and we'll see how long it's going to take me I can already see signs of separation right here and there you know you know the very first time I took my the engine out of my o6 sti it was uh 2020 was it no 19 beginning one of 19 I think it took me hours hours and hours to separate it I ended up using a snap on air hammer with a a sharp chisel and just just went across on top it was just it what happens is the pins I'll show when it's out they freeze up the guide pins whatever you want to call them that are on the side of the bell housing there's one on each side and they just get corroded and won't give up so once it's out we're gonna lubricate on those pins so so in case next time you want to take your engine out it's gonna be much easier I'm hoping the guy that installed this 2.0 did that so I won't have any trouble let's do it you really want a jack underneath your transmission are we got lift off now I have no separation yet now I'm gonna just kind of drop it see if it's we got separation a 1.8 of an inch gap all right we're good now I should mention since this is a push style clutch I'll show you later when it's out and not a full style I don't need to worry about any pin removal or whatnot from the fork the clutch fork thingy all right so now I'm gonna raise it enough enough so the studs sticking out from the the mounts are just enough to clear the actual cross member okay and now just a matter of pulling I think I may have to remove the turbo what the hell now the driver's side wants to come off but the passenger side not so much okay just making sure the jack is still on the transmission so you know when once they're away the transmission doesn't just drop something is catching on the passenger side yet it is the turbo on the transmission I knew it see if some brute force can fix that I'm gonna loosen up the turbo the three nuts but hold it how was that all right now I'm gonna make sure my clutch the other thing is actually disconnected yes all right out we go mining the auto sensor and the ac line on this side all right as soon as you clear the bumper you want to drop it low it does fall it's got a shorter distance to land this is what I was talking about look at this I mean yeah now it makes me wonder if this transmission is actually the original transmission who knows we can check numbers but whatever so this is the so the man the slave cylinder is this way and it pushes the fork towards the back right so the strut bearing will actually push the pressure plate now on STIs this is the other way around well the slave cylinder is on the other side I believe is it yeah see that so that's going to be a pull since this is pushing this way this guy goes moves back so it's actually pulling on the throat bearing and that's the marks of the throat bearing right over here look at this nice crack all these turbos crack over here now this is fine you can you can you see this you can still run this turbo I actually did mine because it ended up it was maybe a quarter of an inch away from the turbine okay and that's bad news so this is the spot that I couldn't clear but listening the turbo helped obviously and these are the guide pins that I was talking about one here and one here the other one stayed on the block or on the transmission and you can see this guy did grease them up there's still grease on here and here's the other this throat bearing was actually replaced not too long ago I suppose we are going to well I am clean this up maybe get rid of get rid of some rust here and there they always rust over here in this area most likely replace these radiator mounts you can get them cheap from rock auto I think like seven bucks ten bucks maybe each I'm gonna paint them also so they last a little longer and fix a few rust areas like here and there so that's it for the engine removal video now if I want to put this engine on a stand which I'm probably going to I need to remove the the clutch pressure plate and that's gonna give me enough room here I'm gonna probably just reuse these studs here and one bolt here or here whatever and use those to mount it on the engine stand then we can flip it around make more mess at this at this point I don't even know if I'm removing the intake I'm not sure what's going on to the new fully built engine I'm sure some things will get transferred but I don't know it's not up to me really all guys up next is that transmission removal see you then