 What's up guys? Welcome to today's video. Today I'm going to show you guys a short men's haircut. We're gonna get into some to some clippering. I'm gonna do some clippering. I'm also gonna show off this Mitch product. I already prepped the mannequin with a double hitter, a two-in-one shampoo and conditioner. I'm gonna use the styling gel today by Mitch. And then the highlight of the day. The reason for this class is Calibrate Thickening Cream, which is a new product to me, but as a guy with skinnier hair I'm super excited about a thickening cream. Coffee, studio, let's do some hair. Here we go. Voila. So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna do a quick clipper cut and then we can play around with the product a little bit. All right, so I want to separate top and bottom. So we're gonna work around that parietal ridge. You just really want to map out kind of where you want to put your fade in. I'm gonna be clippering pretty much all the way up to the parietal ridge. But this is the shape that I want to create in that clipper. So I'm gonna come up with my clipper, scoop out, and work around the head to create that weight line that kind of follows the head shape. I want it to be a little bit heavier in the crown. What I'll do to section this off is I'll comb everything kind of up and over like this. And that'll give me that rounded section. And then slide some clips in there. Good. Then we're gonna work across the back crown. I'll just keep putting clips in holding the hair where I want it. I'm gonna come around here and we're just clipping this away. So really just trying to get the hair out of the way of the clipper work that we're gonna do and drop the comb. We're gonna go with a three guard. And as I work up into the hair, I'm just gonna kick and flick my wrist out to build up that weight towards the top of the haircut right at that parietal ridge. And I'm quickly gonna get this weight off of here because I'm gonna go a little bit shorter around the edges. But remember, this is the weight line that I want to create. As I flick my wrist, I'm coming away from that weight line. And then as I work up the head shape here, I'm still just going kind of straight up and out. I never want to go up into the head this way and start flicking up top because that's not naturally what the head shape wants the hair and weight line to do. So I come up here and flick out straight off the head. Here, straight up and out. So I'm just getting the bulk off for a second and then I'm going to focus a little harder on the details. We're gonna go clipper over comb to blend this parietal ridge area. So I come up here, I dig the comb in and then I pull out like a 45 degree angle. So there's that. And I'm gonna go with a one and a half guard. Just work a little bit tighter on this edge. This is a pretty good standard length. Most of the guys I cut in this salon, like that are looking for just a, you know, a nice cleaned up clipper cut, are not usually going lower than a one and a half guard. So just a little flick of the wrist, still looking at this weight line here and then just transferring that weight line down here and following. I'm gonna bring these sideburns up. In this part here, I've bent the guy's ear down and I hold it with my comb flat to his head and I come around with my trimmer and that allows me to get in tighter instead of holding and having my bulky hand in the way. Then I work into the back here. Just cleaning up that neckline. This is not realistic right here. The only part that's really not too realistic is that little hairline area, which I would take my clipper and just kind of edge out that edge. So here is our calic. Now a couple things that we can do to get the calic to react the way we want it to, is to not fight it. One of the things that you need to think about is how does hair really work? The way that it works is as the hair dries, if you don't force it to do something as it's drying, once it dries, it's there forever. Until you wet it again. Wetting the hair breaks down bonds in the hair and allows it to be flexible. Heat also breaks down bonds in the hair and allows it to be flexible. So if you have a calic, the best thing to do, get it wet first and then hit it with heat and force it to do something that it didn't want to do when it would dry. The other thing that I like to do with the cut part of it, because the cut doesn't really solve the calic, but it can help out with the styling process. So if the calic is right here and the hair is swirling and this hair wants to kick up and over, what I'll do is I'll leave a little extra length in here. I'll work through cutting it and instead of cutting up over the round of the head, instead of taking it like this, I'll take it more like this. Now if I cut it shorter, that might be a instant cure for dealing with this calic, but when it starts to grow out, it just all of a sudden it's a problem again. Within a week it's a problem again. You want to be able to give them the most success that they're going to have in a three week to four week timeframe. So I leave a little extra length in this calic area just like that and I cut it however it wants to stick out. So if it wants to stick out this way, that's where I hold it and cut it. If it wants to stick out up and over this way, then I'll comb it over this way and I'll take my section diagonal like that and I'll bring it out and connect it and cut it. Either way, you want to fight the calic the least amount possible. We've got the hair cut kind of in the direction that calic wants to go. So now when I have my hair wet and I hit a blow dryer on the back and use a comb because combs pull a little bit more tension than a brush. So you can just comb and blow dry the back down and you won't have any problems. So here is another kind of point as I'm working through here. This hair kind of wants to kick over and spread and now I'm going to comb and cut the hair again where it wants to fall. One product that is great for working with a calic is Paul Mitchell Steady Grip Styling Gel. So medium hold gel, medium shine. I take this, I add the tiniest bit, no I don't, I take off the little foil piece, then I take a tiny bit, just like that. I work this into my hand and I work this right into the calic at the scalp. The scalp is what we're dealing with guys. Now gel gets crunchy if you leave it in the hair wet and it dries like that because it's just drying and keeping some of that moisture in and collecting the hair together. Rush or comb the hair where you want it to lay once you get the gel in there and then take your blow dryer and aim the heat and the airflow down. It's like this and work that airflow, do not move the blow dryer and now the hair is dry. We've used the two things that we needed to. We used water and we used heat to seal the bonds laying perfectly down as opposed to kicking up and being where it is. Now this until you wet it again will be good to go for the rest of the day. We're going to move on to the front and all I'm going to do is do a traveling guide across the top until I get to this high point here then it's going to be stationary. All right so the way that I'm going to work across the top of the head is I'm going to work horizontal sections across the top and I'm going to cut them flat parallel to the floor. I'm going to take a center parting comb it into almost like a bowl cut here and now I'm going to work with a traveling guide until I get to the high point so section one, section two, section three, section four. All of this will work this way. Section one I'll cut to create a guide then I'll go to section two I'll push section one halfway to section two section two halfway back to section one and we'll cut to create the next guideline on section two then we grab section three pull that back halfway to section two and we'll cut to that two creating a new guideline for four right so we'll just continue all the way up we get to the high point here then this becomes stationary and everything that we grab from the front which I'll probably just grab this whole front pull it all the way back to four and cut it right at this point and that'll give me a little extra length into the front. Section one also going to show you guys because I want to be cutting from short to long from this area here in the back I want to cut from the short piece it'll be my guideline here all the way up through here bring this hair up I do want to try to blend this section and then we're going to go into 90 degrees parallel to the floor again we've got a second section and this comes back pull it back but then I'll comb section one halfway to that section two cut parallel to the floor and then just bring it down a little bit and blend it into the side so it's a shift you first cut parallel to the floor with your guide and then you just recomb and then you blend it to the sides now we're still traveling comb it back grab a little bit of our previously cut section we're bringing this halfway parallel across the top and then a recomb and a connection to the bottom so now this is the last traveling guide up cut parallel to the floor and I bring it down and I connect it to the side and then I take the rest of this top and I bring it back to section four and I cut it stationary at that point so now I cut this side standing behind the head because I'm bringing everything and I want to cut short to long now if I go over here to then cut now I'm cutting in to out and it's very uncomfortable to do this so what I'm going to do now is face my client and I'm going to work in front of them and cut I'll go here and then four four is our last traveling guide four turns into stationary so then bring everything back so what I'm going to do is I'm going to blow dry this but I'm going to add in my thickening cream first this is the whole reason for the class today is for me to test out and highlight this thickening cream calibrate by Mitch so what I'm going to do is I'm going to work this product in put it in my hand working this into the hair working it in towards the scalp it's got a really nice slip to it I could actually see this even a cutting lotion when I started cutting into the top if I wanted to it would help me separate my sections really well to get full effect of the product I comb it through so it gets on every bit of the hair then I got my ergo diamond head brush okay so discoveries here first off I am like super psyched about this product because not only did like his hair feels super thick which his hair was already a little bit thick but not like not crazy but also it has more hold than I thought it would so I almost feel like depending on the style you're going for you might not even need a second product I mean for my hair I will definitely still probably use clean cut in it but I'll use much less clean cut this guy here it feels flexible like I could kind of move it where I want it but it feels just so thick so definitely psyched on this product but hey thank you so much for watching this video being a part of the comments and the community check out freesaloneducation.com for everything that you want and also become part of my patreon patreon.com slash mattebeck put it right here you get everything everything you need to know about basic hair cutting everything that I know it's in my head I put into that cutting system so go check it out on freesaloneducation.com subscribe like hit the notification bell and become part of our FSE community