 All right. Who is ready to finish up sewing the Seamwork Chantel dress? Today's video is all about the hem as well as the sleeves and the button holes and buttons. So yeah, I'm excited to finish it up with you. Mine is looking super cute. I hope yours is too. So yeah, let's finish this one strong, you guys. Okay, so starting with the hem, we are going to be turning this to the right side using your point turner, right? Boom, boom, boom. Get that nice and sharp. Okay. And then the rest of the hem, see how that's done really beautifully like that? The rest of the hem gets turned under a quarter of an inch and then pressed up again five eighths of an inch and then stitched at half an inch. Super straightforward. It's just like finicky at your iron. But again, if you want to use my little trick, well, first of all, you can surge this and pin it up if you want to do that. But if you want to do my little trick of measuring, double the amount you're supposed to turn up. So if I'm turning up a quarter of an inch, I'm actually going to double that to half an inch, right? That way when I'm turning up, I know that's exactly quarter of an inch, right? And then I'm turning this up again five eighths. So from the folded line, I'm turning it up five eighths. So I'm going to double that to one and a quarter, one and a quarter. So a quarter inch, one and a quarter. Now, I know that that is perfectly measured exactly how they want it. And I can go to my iron and press all of that down. All right, moving on to our sleeve piece E. We are going to need the sleeve and the facing. So we need E and I. E and I. Okay, first step is going to be to fold one sleeve in half right sides together so that at seam edges meet pin and stitch. So that is these little short pieces here. Okay, same thing with the facing. Okay, short pieces here sewn at the machine along this short edge and this short edge. Again, they tell you to finish these separately. I'm going to do that before I sew them. I don't think you need to finish this because that's going to be turned up into the garment. You'll never see it, but I am going to finish the sleeve edges, the unnotched edge of eye, which is the top curve of eye. So go ahead and finish that, finish that, finish both of your sleeve short edges. Sew these together. Sew these together. Okay, so now we are going to turn or we're going to, sorry, attach the sleeve facing to the sleeve. So it goes right sides together with the raw, unfinished edges touching. So you're going to match up your underarm seams and then you also have a notch to help you as well. So underarm seams and then find your notch, which is just a couple of inches past the underarm seam. If you get here, like I did, and there's not a notch, then you have the wrong facing with the wrong sleeve. They go together like that. See how the notch is on the other side? So I've got to actually get my other facing because there's like a back, there's a front and a back to your sleeves. So you have to get them on correctly or else it won't match up. Okay, so there's the underarm seam and then now our notches should match. Okay, so we're going to do that. We're going to sew it. We are going to grade it. We are going to turn it under. We are going to top stitch. So yeah, line up your raw edges and sew around. If your machine has a arm, go ahead and engage that, a free arm makes it so easy just to slip this on. All right, let's do this. Okay, again, when it comes to grading, it's the seam allowances that end up touching is the actual sleeve. So that's the one I'm going to trim back and grade before I turn this whole thing under. You could under stitch here, but I think my fabric is so easy to work with. I'm going to be able to just turn it under. Well, I don't know, I should probably under stitch. I just, I love under stitching so much, I can't help myself. So I've got to under stitch here. Now I can turn this under really easily and don't have to worry about it being uneven. Okay, so what did it say? Seven eighths? Seven eighths. All right, seven eighths is just shy of an inch. So right there, repeat for the other sleeve. To prepare the sleeve, to attach it to the dress, we need to sew some rows of basting stitches. Seamwork recommends three. Three never hurts. I can't say that I see a big difference when I'm using two versus three, but you do you. Okay, I am going to do mine at, so the seam line is five eighths. You want to do one at half and one at three quarters. I think, as I said in my fitting video, I think I'm going to take my seam allowances down to, gosh, probably a quarter. So I'll do it at a quarter inch and a half inch. And you just want to do it from notch to notch. So quarter of an inch is here and you're going to baste. So we want nice long stitches. Okay, now you're going to take your bobbin threads and gently pull them up so that you create room for your shoulder. Now, this is not going to be a gathered sleeve. Okay, this is not going to be a puffy sleeve. This is just easing it in to the arm size. So I go ahead and get it started to where it's like a little bit, you know, looks like a lettuce leaf and then put it on the sleeve on the dress and then see how close I got. Again, if you need more assistance with sleeves, like if this is your first time doing a set in sleep, Seamwork has a great tutorial. They also have like an e-course. I'll have all of that linked below to where you can access those. If you need more that I'm giving you here, go ahead and check that out. Based on how their patterns are done, you can tell that they put a great amount of detail and attention into all their coursework. So whether it's a tutorial that's included with your membership or the separate e-course, you know that you're going to get some really good, strong instruction. Okay, so just how with the sleeve facing, there's a right side and the wrong side, same thing with the sleeve. So you can see here that there's two notches need to match up with the two notches. That means the back of the sleeve is on the back of the dress. So I mark the underarm seam. I mark the two notches and the shoulder, which should have a notch as well. Shoulder should be going toward the back like so. And once you get all this pinned in, then you can see how close you got with your easing. So let me show you here. All right, so again, it's not a gather. All right, you should be able to fit them in and you can see that I have this little bubble here. So I know I actually even did it too much so I can let it out some. But those notches are your guides. That's how you know if you've done too much or not enough easing. Okay, I know I said I was going to do quarter inch seam allowances. I think I'm going to start with half. I'm getting nervous. I'm tucking myself out of it. I'll do half and then see how it fits. Let me go try this puppy on and I'll be back. Okay, for the record, I'm happy with the half inch. I could probably use a quarter inch right at the cap. But I feel like that would be an adjustment that I would want to make on the pattern pieces and not just like willy nilly do it here on the dress. So I'm just going to leave it as is. No one's going to know but you and me, right? It doesn't feel uncomfortable. There's plenty of room in the bicep. It's just I think the rise of the cap is not enough. So I'm going to go through and remove all my basting stitches that are visible. I mean, I guess technically you should remove them all but I only remove the ones that are visible. Okay, so really easy. Just pull them out. All right, now moving on. Of course, you want to repeat on the other side. But I'm going to move ahead so I can just keep working but we want to make buttonholes. Okay, we want to mark and make buttonholes. So if you're looking at your pattern keys for the front, right? And we turned up our hem so roughly here. Now, if I went ahead, well, it's probably technically more like that. If I went ahead and just marked the buttonholes where they told me to, this is my bust line. This one here, this is my waistline and this is roughly my hip line. You can see how I have those lines marked here just about roughly. Maybe my bust is somewhere in between these two. Anyways, you can see that the bust would be fine. At my waist though, it would be a little bit low, which is probably fine. You just want to make sure that wherever your button is being buttoned, that all of the curvy parts of your body are being buttoned at that point, right? That way you don't get the pulling. Well, obviously the ease helps with that too but if you had a button above and below your bust apex, almost even if the dress fit really well, you would still get a little bit of like a pull right there. So you just want to make sure. I know that at my bust, obviously there is a curvy part. I have a bit of a belly protrusion. Truth be told, it is a little bit lower than my waist. So coming down to a size 10 wouldn't be the worst idea and then you can see the hip line kind of measures up also. So I might be good with this placement. My point here is don't take these for granted, right? Don't just assume that because they say this is where the buttons go. That's where your buttons go. You can get a little doodad like this and place it to where it's almost fully extended on this one. But you can place it where your size is. Yeah, it doesn't even go that wide. They want one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight buttons. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight thingamajigs. So you can place this at your full bust and then distribute your buttons evenly. If you wanted more of them, you just scoot it down and then fill in the bottom. I think I'm going to go with this because this lines up with my bust. It lines up with my belly protrusion unnecessarily my waist, my belly protrusion and that hip line that I marked. So this is going to be my buttonhole placement. You do want to honor the location of the buttonholes. So the circles are the buttons and the lines are the holes. So the holes actually start way back here and less the seam allowance, which was three eighths. So we want to come in where those dots line up and we are lining it up like so. And you want to make sure that it's straight, okay? That's the only advice I have about buttonholes. The rest of it is just marking and saying a hope and a prayer that your machine is going to be kind to you. And I really hope that all of your machines are kind to you and that your buttonholes go in easily. Hand sew your buttons on and we are done with this dress.