 What you're looking at today is a very temperamental Sony BVM 1316 CRT broadcast quality monitor. What you've got on here on the screen right now is 240p in the 240p test pattern. We're running that through RGB SCART into this from an RGB modded Super Nintendo down there. Right now it's functioning fine. Everything looks good. We have all our colors. That's not the problem. The problem with the monitor is when the temperature cools and it gets below probably 60 degrees, the sync will not work and it'll just scroll like there's no sync control. And also if we try to put anything besides RGB into this monitor, which it should accept composite video and component video, those will not sync at all. So there's an issue going on with the sync in this monitor. This one is very heavy and there's a lot going on back here. We've got boards. This is really old for a BVM. It's from 1993. So it's not one of the newer ones and honestly I feel like heat generating from a lot of these parts over here. We've just got some massive stuff going on in this monitor, lots of capacitors and I believe we have a capacitor issue in our card bay over here, specifically in this section. Probably one of these sync lines because I'm showing sync issues where the monitor is not working right. Of course it's working right now when I'm trying to film it, but if it does stop we'll look at that. But again, that's going to be somewhere in this area where the sync is going into this monitor. The other thing that tells me it's a capacitor is if I get in here while this is hot and running I get a nice pungent odor coming from this spot. Not over here in this spot, not this spot, not this spot, not this spot, but this spot. And it's that lovely fish oil smell that you can always associate with capacitor fluid being on the board and then being heated up by electricity and then that smell comes out. We're going to try to get this back off of here and we'll look at our sync input which our sync input is actually tied out to its own here on the external sync but it's also something going on with the internal sync on here because again as I said that does not work at all. And but right now it's not, you know, it's behaving for the camera. Over here on this side are all our input cards and it's a configuration thing. There's a key to how these configuration works and also which compartment name you need to have the card in and which cards you need in each compartment. There's obviously a different configuration that you could have on your monitor so just check with this to make sure that you have the right cards that's going to give you the capability to work and make sure something's not missing if you have a problem because if it is missing that could be the whole issue is it's just missing a card that's causing it not to function. The cards I will be moving today again are going to be these two and then we'll remove this back plate so we can get in here to our input area and we'll see if anything else needs to be removed if there's an additional board behind these input cards that needs to be pulled out and we'll inspect that. We could see if we could figure out which one of these capacitors has gone bad on us. Well, after a lot of investigation this BA3 board is definitely the source of our fishy smell. I was smelling in under this area and I'm definitely smelling the fishiness. From the outside just looking at it closely before we even take it apart it says say video A right there so this could have something to do with that internal sink processing and the best way for us to find out is to just pop these Philips head screws off and let's take a closer look at this board. Our four screws have been removed on our shielding. I'm just going to lift this up and we're going to see what's inside and of course we've got a plethora of just holy crap. Yep. Wow. Look at this board. Unbelievable. So I'm surprised it would even work at all. Oh my goodness. Yeah. This is our issue. So this card has numerous oh my goodness just awful dead capacitors. Look at all that ooze down here in this section. No wonder the video won't process and then same thing in this section. Wow. Holy moly. Yeah. Look at that. Into like every single one of these caps is busted. Look at this. And just can you imagine what it's doing to the traces under there? I'm surprised it would just sync up and work at all. Man look even over here on the on the voltage the power we got 12 volts in there. Look at that. Oh that one is just eating eating the pieces. This is some of the worst I've really ever seen. Wow. So you know one of these things stunk like fish right when you get this heated up. Well I've been inspecting this board even closer and I found some more issues with it but it is absolutely amazing to me that this would still be able to warm up show all three colors being red green and blue through RGB and then it was still able to sync because if we get close and look at some of the caps you can tell where these caps for example this one this is attached to the green. These caps definitely done so it's got buildup coming out of it and I'm not certain that these would last too much longer if they were if they're still good right now but they are on this one right here it's got some oxidation right there too so that doesn't look good I'm just blown away that that all worked any bit of it worked then we've got fluid here but there's been some repairs done to this board before because if we look over here like C602 that was originally a surface mount cap and somebody came in here and changed it with a nice cap and actually did a good job on that repair so this was professionally repaired before at one point and then here's another one you could tell these up in this zone the caps failed and I'm guessing the most these other caps are still in good shape at the time the person did that repair and the solder looks pretty fresh on a lot of these points so I don't know if more points like for example up in the chip it looks like it was the solder was reflowed and so does it on these components over here and you know some of this stuff just looks like it has been reflowed but maybe that's just it just looks good because it was in there but I look at this and all this stuff you know some of these points just look like they were reflowed to me also so I don't know I've reached out to save on Pat because that's going to be our first choice and hopefully we can get a replacement for this board otherwise this board will need to have every single one of these capacitors removed and then we'll need to clean this board and hopefully not damage any traces hopefully none of these traces will pop off or anything and then replace them with good capacitors and that's a pretty lengthy job I'm just looking here estimate we got like five six seven eight you know ten I mean it's like 50 capacitors about on here so that's not just a small little tiny job that's that's is that's way more than is in a normal cap kit even for a monitor but that that's kind of what typically happens with Sony BVMs is you'll have these cards and this will happen because they did use a lot of these surface mount components and shoot these surface mount components this is from 1993 this board is so that's that's 30 years now almost that these capacitors have been on this board so it's not surprising that they finally failed I guarantee they weren't made to last that long but I'm just blown away that the monitor would even power on at all well guys unfortunately save on Pat does not have a replacement card for us so that means I'm going to have to rip all these old nasty SMD capacitors off this board so what we're going to do in the next episode is go through a method of removing SMD capacitors that has been touted as a good way and also shunned by some in the community we'll clean up the board after that replace the capacitors and also clean up the trace damage so look for all that to come in future episodes please let me know what you think of this video with a comment below and I will see you all next time with some more retro content