 Hello boys and girls, welcome to part 20 of the EJ-25 build. We have one more after this and that's it. In this one we continue with the cutout. I'm going to finish the actual cutout, finish painting it, mount it. Then we're going to move on to the wiring. I'm going to show you how I wired it with a switch on the inside in the center console. So guys, as always, remember to subscribe. Just do it now. I mean, why wouldn't you like the video if you did dislike the video if you didn't and comment. Enjoy. There's two coats. I may end up putting on a third coat and see a little bit of metal through the paint. But I actually went online looking for a vacuum solenoid. And then I remembered I have one. I took it out. I took the evap solenoid from the Subaru. Way, way before. And I can use it actually. It's got an out and an in for vacuum and it's powered. It's a powered switch. These, this is a quarter inch of ID inside diameter. And this is three sixteenths. And this already had this guy here. Was it, yeah, it was from here. This little adapter thing, three sixteenths to one quarter. So I can use this. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to run a three sixteenths from underneath the car from the valve all the way up under the hood to this actually to this here. And then I can use these two hoses. This is all parts from the car from the same car, stock parts. So I'm not buying anything as I am going to end up buying a switch. That's just, you know, few dollars. Anyways, so I just need to make the vacuum connections. One is going to go to the valve and the other is going to go to this vacuum over here. And right now it's plugged, but I'm going to reuse this is the same size, one quarter. Well, almost. It's just, it's slightly bigger, but it should, the hose should stretch enough. And I actually had to dig out this plug. It was zip tied way underneath the intake manifold. I never knew I was going to need it. I'm going to cut this. I just need the plug and, you know, a little bit of the harness of the wires. It's only two wires. I'm probably going to mount this maybe here. This, maybe not. We'll see. Maybe underneath like that. Yeah, probably something over here. Maybe I can find another spot and connect this to the switch, which is going to be inside somewhere. Okay. So I cut the switch out. Okay. So this is what I cut a little extension. So right now, no power is going to the solenoid. So what I'm going to do, I'm going to see if it's without it being powered. Is it working or if it's not working? I mean, if it's closed or open. Okay. So I cannot blow or suck any air on any of these. Okay. So, which means it's closed. So the switch would be off at this point. I mean, at least that's how I'm going to wire it. So now if I give it power. Okay. So there's the click. So which means it's working. It's opening and closing. So let's see what happens if it stays powered. So I'm going to blow air into this one. Air is actually coming out through here. So if I block this, I got no air. Okay. So it's working. So this should be good. All right, guys. A little update. Check this out. Three coats. It took three coats to cover everything now. So the actual valve and the the butterfly and the body for it, whatever you want to call it. It is stainless steel and so was this pipe. But I painted everything just to match the color and basically the welds. The welds would rust pretty much right away. But I gotta say it turned out pretty good. And this is still it's not easy to open with my hand. Anyway, started running the three sixteenths holes and decided to go this route here. Popped a few plastic push pins and there we go. You can see it inside now right there. You see where the holes kind of disappears to the right. I cut the plastic off right there. So when I push this cover back on, it won't pinch it. And this is the only part that I don't like. But there is really isn't any other way that the downpipe is on the other side. So I wanted to stay away from that. So if I were to go on this side, this is very close to the downpipe. So it's got to be it's only going to be exposed over here. I made it end up covering this up with something, maybe another rubber hose or something. But then I'm going to zip tie it up to this break line there and go straight up. Okay, so I got it hooked up temporarily just to show you. So the bracket on the solenoid I managed to make it straight before it was 90 degrees. So I just put it in the vise, hammered it a bit and made it flat so I can mount it over here. This bolt is actually it used to be right here. And now it's new home is there. Anyways, this is ground that's going to stay like this. This green wire is going to be ground for the solenoid. This ground for the switch. I'm going to get ground from the inside. So I don't need to run this wire from here to the inside. This is going to get its own ground. The only wire that I need to run is this one from the from the solenoid to the switch. And this wire here, this brown wire that's connected to the battery right now. This I will connect on the inside again to ignition or accessory, whatever, most likely ignition. So if, for example, I forget to turn it off, when I turn the key off, this will cut power to the switch and it will cut power to the solenoid, obviously. So right now we got power. Now all I need to do is create, I don't remember which, if this is right or not, if it's wrong, then I'll just switch these vacuum lines. I forgot which one was open. So yeah, now it's just a matter of testing it. Alright, I'm going to start it and flip the switch and you're going to watch if it works. Okay, so it works. But there's an issue. It will not close when the car is running. Maybe when it's on low on RPMs. Okay, camera got a little wet. Once I get it all situated, I'm going to let the engine warm up, let it come down on RPMs. I got it set to 1000 at idle, 1100 somewhere along there. And I'm going to see if it's actually going to close. Alright, so here's what's going on right now. Now I've had other switches right here where these two holes are. I had this orange switch and this blue switch. Now one of them was to turn on and off the access port 2.0 back in the day. These switches were done 10, 12, 13 years ago, a long time ago. But now, as you all may know, I did obtain the 3.0 for the E85. Anyway, so this gets its own switch because it's hooked up to the OBD2 constant power. So I can flip it on and off anytime I want to. Then this other blue switch for water is the stock water spray, intercooler water spray. Now the stock one, when you press it, it works for 5 seconds, 10 seconds. I can't remember. This still works. But to keep a constant spray, I installed this switch. What I do is just flip it on and it just stays on until, well, forever, until I turn it off. So now this red switch is going to be the exhaust cutout. I'm simply going to cut another hole next to those two. Ignore most of these wires. So I have ground here. I'm going to use this as ground. One of these wires is power, switched power. So that's what I'm going to do right now. Okay, so now I got to make me a hole. This one is slightly different. I wish I had the same one. It's very similar, looks almost the same. Well, not really anyway, but it's a little bit wider. So the hole must be bigger. I'm going to draw it out and make one. All right, got it hooked up. So blue, water spray, orange, access port, yep, off, and the new, the new guy. Okay, let me see if I can hear the click. It's working and the inner cooler. And that's also working, spraying water on the engine now. All right, time to put it back together. Hello boys and girls, again, twice in the same video, because it's been months. It's been, I think I did this cut out, what you just saw. I think I did it back in February maybe, maybe March. I don't remember. Right now it's August, it's August. Took a long time for me to get this video out. I spent months and months trying to get it up, trying to do the break in miles. I just had no time, you know, driving 20 miles, maybe 30, once a week or so. Anyways, this is what's going on. So you've seen the cut out. Now this, at this stage, this car has been tuned. We're back to the switch. So this is where I mounted it. Here I have the ground, remember this is the stock EVAP solenoid. Then I have this wire actually goes through the firewall along there, inside the cabin. And you've seen the switch. So that's the same. Now I did this while I was still breaking the engine in and I could not test on it open throttle because, you know, obviously I was breaking the engine in. So when I finally could, it was working fine. I could open it, only open it while I was just cruising along, but I could not close it. If I were to turn the switch off, nothing would happen because I found that later and it was a kind of a duh moment for me. The reason why it didn't turn off when I would flip the switch off because this has a turbo. Now there is vacuum when you're just cruising along. There is vacuum inside the intake. Anything after the turbo, there's a vacuum when you're just cruising along. The second you give it open throttle, anything after the turbo, the intercooler, the intake everything becomes pressurized from the turbo. So instead of vacuum, you get pressure. I hope I'm calling it right, but you get what I'm saying. So what was going on while the switch was on, while the solenoid was on, if I were to finally give it, you know, boost after the break and while tuning actually, the valve, the car out would close on its own. So I'm, so I'm thinking what's going on? Why is it closing? You know, it's because this valve remained open and the pressure build up in the intake where it was connected still in the same spot. Instead of vacuum, it was getting, you know, plus 10 to 15, 20 psi, whatever the turbo was boosting. So then I thought, okay, so I got to find a different spot where I have vacuum all the time, especially when I'm at open throttle. So I switched this line, this vacuum line that goes into the solenoid. I see, I remember I have the inlet pipe. It's all kept off. I'm not using these openings at all. There's one, two, three, and there's a fourth one right there. I figured the closer to the turbo I get, the best vacuum I'm going to get. And I only need minus two or so at open throttle. That didn't work. So then kind of by accident, well, not really because I actually could then after, well, you know, after the tune, I could actually give it the beans. So I turned the switch off and I went open throttle and it didn't close. Why? Because the solenoid is airtight. When it's off, when there's no power to it, it doesn't, it remains shut. It's airtight. It actually needs pressure to close. So what I do when I want it to open, I need to be cruising. I need to be, I need to have vacuum in the intake manifold. I just flip it on and off right away. Then it's going to remain on at all times, only because it's airtight, meaning this, this inside here, it's airtight. But when I finally want to turn it off, I flip the switch on. I give it a throttle on enough to create boost and I flip it off. So when I turn it on, I give it gas. It creates positive pressure. The flap closes on the cutout and I turn it off. And that while I'm accelerating, it can last for half a second. And then it's off. And that's it. It's fixed.