 Hey, what's up, folks? Welcome back to another 3D Hangouts. My name is Noel Ruiz. I'm a designer here at Adafruit. Join me every week. This is my brother Pedro. Good morning, everybody. I'm Pedro. I was creative tech here at Adafruit. And every week, we're here to share three different projects, featuring electronics from Adafruit. That's right. This is the show we combine 3D printing and DIY electronics to make inspirational projects. Hello, everybody hanging out in the Discord chat room. We'll take a couple of moments to let everybody get into the live stream here. We're streaming on all the networks. Everything looks good. We have checkmarks across the board, Facebook, LinkedIn, YouTube, Twitch, and X. I think that's what it's called. You know how the X is pronounced? Yeah. It's now an itter. Yeah. Instead of like periscope, we'll call it Xscope. Anyway, we are hanging out in the Discord server. Adafruit has its own Discord server. The URL for that is discord.gg. Slash Adafruit. Welcome, everybody. So far, we have DuesterSquid.JPGRosen hanging out in the Discord chat. I've also got a wider chat view here. I think it's coming up from Facebook and Periscope and LinkedIn. Good morning, Jonathan Simmons. Hello. I think it's LinkedIn. Yeah. Good. Yanni Skoo is in the house as well saying Sabers. Yes, Saber Sabers. All the Sabers this week. Mick Carter. Good morning. Hello. I'm going to have to do a lot of muting. I am still recovering from COVID for doing a bunch of the lightsaber shots. Definitely worth for the most cool hero shots. Allegedly got it, perhaps. I saw that guy coughing right in our direction in the marketplace onto that robot doing his little turn. You traveled all the way to Black Spires post at the far edge of the galaxy. Pedro traveled to get these shots. I might as well be on camera. You brought back the space variant. It's reached far and wide across the galaxy. I'm sort of feeling better now. I'm glad you're feeling better. I was feeling it on Monday, like in the afternoon. Yeah. So after the show, what's up? I am going to take orange juice or whatever it is you want to take. Just water. Just water. Very well. All right. Well, let's go pay some bills. Today's coupon code is Jedi Sith. Whether you want to be a Jedi or a Sith or we're going to need a lightsaber and you're going to want a coupon code to get 10% off your order from anything in the Aderford shop. That's a physical good. And then after that, be sure to check out Aderford.com for all the details that are going on. Two items right now as we work to get more supplies in. If your order is $149 or more, you're going to get a free Aderford KB2040 keyboard driver. That's that lovely RP2040 board. Great for keyboard projects. And if your order is $299 or more, you'll get the KB2040 plus a circuit playground express. We are still working with our shipping team and trying to make sure we can get everything back to offer other freebies like the ground shipping from UPS. But we're still working on getting everything back to normal. But that's what the deals are. These get automatically added to your cart. No coupons necessary for that one. But you can still add your coupon. That's pretty much it for the intro. Nice simple but simple. So this week, we have the lightsaber project. I'm going to go ahead and jump into the learn guide. Just have it loaded there. So if you go to learn.aderford.com, you'll see the lightsaber prop maker RP2040 is now out and released. We had a lot of fun remaking this project with the new prop maker feather. It's our favorite board right now for making props because it is fully engineered. Pleasurable to assemble. While making the guide, I had to take it apart a dozen times. And I was able to do so without any desoldering, which was amazing. Normally you have to solder everything to a pen, but not for this one. You do have to do a little bit of soldering, of course, for the strips and the switch. But everything else, screw block terminals, very nice to have. Let's take a look at, I guess, the saber itself. We were asked to send these STL files off to JLCPCB and they offer a lovely 3D printing service. So these were printed in black resin on an SLA 3D printer. So this is black resin. And they has the sanding option. And both we got two copies. Peter has his copy of my copy. They were both under $50 with shipping for two of these. And that's the hilts, the pommel, the PCB holder, the battery holder, even the blade holder. The blade holder, unfortunately, had a little update because it was too loose to hold the blade because it needs to be a super tight press fit. But we went ahead and updated the CAD. There you go. Peter has it there. It's this translucent SLA resin. And it's better for the blade itself. So that you can actually see it through the emitter here. I just used white PLA to get the color to diffuse through there. But man, these resin prints are amazing. They have a really nice smooth texture to them because they are indeed sanded. You can choose to have them sanded or not, which is really cool. And I think they also offer some different colors. But Lamar really wanted the black because, you know, if you love black. It's more of a gunmetal gray, but close enough. Yeah, it's more like a gunmetal gray. And it feels like a ceramic or something. It does feel like a porcelain ceramic kind of coffee mug style. But it's got this matte finish. It feels a lot better in the hands, I think, which is nice. So one of the things we wanted to do with the update to the lightsaber was to get the code to have a feature where you can change the colors of the blade. So we collaborated with Liz Clark and she modified the code and added that feature so that you can hold down on the RGB LED button and get in and out of this color changing mode. But it has the same motion activated lights and sounds that you're familiar with. It can crash, turns white, and it has a random choice for the different swings. So you have a few different swing sound effects. So that is a quick demo of it. Another thing we're really happy with is the pommel screws off because it has a thread. And then there is the PCB holder, super easy. Battery sticks right there. You have a USB-C port for recharging the battery or programming. And then you have a built-in slide switch here to turn the whole circuit on or off if you really want it to be turned off. But while it's in its off state, the LED stays lit so you know that it's on. So that's really cool. And it's all open source in terms of the design. Of course the hardware is open source too, but the hilt design can be modified and whatever CAD package you want. We have a Fusion 360 file, also the step file so you can modify all the parts. Yeah, I think folks that have like custom-made CNC aluminum hilts can be able to reuse the PCB holder if they want, if the sizes are all right. And if not, you can update the diameters in whatever CAD package so you can have like a whole CNC hilt like you can because you can purchase CNC hilts that are in aluminum and the various online suppliers and folks that make their own. So yeah, super fun. Pedro, you had a lot of fun taking it to Star Wars Galaxy's Edge at Disney World. You got some amazing shots. They just let you in, huh? Like they just let you in with your own custom lights. Oh yeah, when you go through the metal defect, you just hold it out and walk through, right? That's it. That's cool. So anytime you have like an electronics that you want to show off there, I just like when I go in with robots, just have it on your shoulder or whatnot and walk right in, hold it out. They shouldn't get in too much trouble with that. Cool. This version here was our first, my first model. It's using FDM filament on just a Creality Ender printer. All the parts print without any support material. They're all oriented to print without any supports. There's the threading right there. You can see it here. This is that like silver glitter. So you get a bit of a shine. It looks kind of nice on the webcam, but compared to the resin print, you're still going to see some layer lines and stuff. And this pomal I just swapped it out. This is the resin pomal. I thought it'd be fun to switch to see if the parts are interchangeable. They totally are. There's some things that I couldn't have printed with the resin 3D printing service from JLCPCB, namely these little grips. They're just too thin. Like they're 0.4 millimeters thick because I really wanted to be like decals. But I printed them in this glittery dark galaxy black. And because I use the texture PEI bed, it has a little bit of a texture to it. So that makes it look less like it's 3D printed. You could paint this. You could use decals or something else or actually use real rubber, like cut out real rubber with a like a plotter or whatever. But yeah, I'm really impressed how the resin was able to print the little pegs here for the snap fit PCB holder. So no screws needed for your PCB. A little bit of a slot here if you want whole wires to come out there. But yeah, and it flexes slightly so that you can get the PCB in there. And this stuff is apparently heat high temperature resistant and also durable is what they say. So that's good to know. Maybe it's more durable than the filament. There's no layer lines. So I'm thinking it's going to be a little bit more durable than the FDM stuff. But we'll see. I haven't dropped mine yet. Somebody asked what is this? It's the lightsaber. That's a 3D printed lightsaber with the new Feather RP2040 Perot maker. And we have a question. Where is the Discord server? Right up there at discord.gg slash Adafruit. See if I can point to it with my lightsaber. I was doing that. Pointing at stuff. I'll post the coming up and like I was grabbing shirts off the, you know, when they're too high, you know, those merchants use. That's why I was using it as the wing down stuff. Yeah, so very, very fun project. This, the original prop maker Feather was conceived because lightsabers was the thing that Lamar wanted us to build. And here we are a couple of years later. Can't get some of the chips, like mainly the atmel chips. So it's nice to move away from that chipset and go with the more readily available RP2040 from the Raspberry Pi Foundation. So there we go. I guess next we'll take a look at the learn guide. Just kind of breeze through what the instructions are like for building one of your own lightsabers. Whether you 3D print it or send it off to a 3D printing service like JLCPCB. Yeah, I think you'll like the, the, the streamlined building process. If you were one of the likey few that were able to get the RP2040 prop maker Feather, it was half off last week on JP's product pig of the week. And maybe that's why it sold out because everybody bought it half the price, which is cool. But we still have some other things in stock, like the RGB LED button, the Neopixel strips, the speakers out of stock, so is the battery, but we still have the slide switches and all the various cables and wires that you're you're going to want. But if you want to get notified when these are back in stock, you can click on the link, add your email if you want here. And you get an email when these are back in stock. We're trying to make more of these. So there's the story on that one. Some things that you want to purchase outside of Adafruit or is the polycarbonate tube to create the blade. I'm a big fan of getting the 24 inch long ultra edge heavy grade blade from the fine folks at ultra sabers.com. They've been selling these for a long time now. And you can get them pre kind of tip. You can get a round tip or a pointed tip, and it's only going to cost you about 24 bucks for this polycarbonate tube. Of course, you can buy your own polycarbonate tube and cut it to size and create your own tip. But I really like theirs because they actually add a little bit of internal, what do you call it, diffusing material that makes it a little bit more diffused when you're putting the neopixel strip inside. So I think that and some other things like coral plaster is this corrugated plastic sheet that's going to create a nice diffusing material and structure for your neopixel strip so that it doesn't get kinked inside or it keeps it straight basically. And because it's translucent, it diffuses the neopixel. Other things like clear scotch tape and double sided no tape or things you'll want to have on hand as well. Okay, let's take a look at the circuit diagram. Most of the things are going to go into the screw block terminal, which is really nice. Some things that get soldered to pins though is the RGB LED. We just ran out of pins for the screw block terminal. So that's why we're using individual pins. If you ever wired up a RGB LED, it's pretty much the same. You have four connections. One goes to the three volt pin and then you have a digital pin for each LED. The battery just connects. The slide switch also gets soldered to some pins, the enable and ground pin. But yeah, that's pretty much it. It's a pretty straightforward circuit diagram. CAD files. Here are all the CAD files. Not too many parts. Again, they all print without any support material, which is really nice. On an FDM, you're probably going to need supports if you're doing a resin printer. If you have your own resin printer, you know the drill. We tend to avoid resin prints. We haven't done that in quite a while. But hey, there are some low cost affordable 3D printing services out these days, namely PCBway and JLCPCB. For this one, we use JLCPCB. And I figure I add some options here of what I chose. So SLA resin, black resin. It's a grayish black color. And I chose to, yes, sand it for me, please. That's why you get these really nice smooth matte finish on these parts. Another part that was printed in resin from JLCPCB was the blade holder. I used these 8001 translucent because I didn't want that. I needed that to be translucent so that the light of the Neopixel shines through it. So that's the only part that it's a little bit different than the black resin. But otherwise, if you have your own 3D printer, you probably want to know what the minimum build volume is required. So 80 by 80 by 190 millimeters. That's the length the height of the of the hilts, which is probably the biggest part. So yeah. And then if you actually want just like the PCB of the feather, you want to have that included into your CAD design, you can use our 3D models that's on GitHub. You can get access to those. Those are free downloads and various formats like step, STL, and Fusion 360. That has all the components there for you. So you can make sure that your design has all the proper clearances. So that's CAD files. When you get your feather, you're going to want to install CircuitPython. Easy to do so. You get it in the boot loader mode, drag and drop the file to install, to automatically install the latest version of CircuitPython. Because the code is done in CircuitPython, shout out to Liz Clark for adding these features and making it a little bit upgraded now with the latest versions and latest libraries in CircuitPython. Everything's commented. So if you want to change up the array of colors, you can do that here in the top of the code. You'll probably want to keep all the pinouts the same unless you want to use different patents for the RGB LED. It's up to you. The Neopixels here, if you want to change the max brightness, you can do that. You can make it lower. You can change the sensitivity of the accelerometer. That's all done here. And if you want to add any more modes, you can modify the logic in the loop here if you want. But yeah, we have a bunch of sound effects as well. Make sure you use the download project bundle button that'll grab the libraries, the code, and the audio files, which is really nice. These are all wave files. They just tend to play a little bit better with CircuitPython. You can do MP3s, but we prefer the wave files because it just kind of plays better. So we have a few crashes and swings. And there's a special sound effect for the color mode. We wanted to have a different sound effect instead of the idle humming, the hum sound effect that's iconic to the lightsaber. We wanted to have a different sound effect. So we chose this sound effect, but you can change it up if you like. And then there's a nice breakdown of all the different pieces of the code. So you can check those out and shout out to Liz for putting the write up together as well. Very awesome. Yeah, when it comes to wiring, we've got all the steps here. We're going to go quick. There's questions on the three printing before we move on. One of them is, what is the total cost from JLC for the parts? Yeah, so for us, I got two copies of each part, and it was about $50 with shipping. So I think if you are just doing one set of the parts, it's going to be about $30. Depending on where you are, the shipping cost might change. The shipping is the highest cost of this when you're ordering the parts. I was doing some tests with the Master Sword, I think it was like $12.50 for all the parts. $12.50 for US dollars. And then the shipping is like, oh, what is it? What was it like? $16 or $20? Yeah, no, I think it was like $30 or something like that. Yeah. Yeah, so that's the cost that was on our end. Yeah, under $100, which is amazing. Yeah, and the quality, I mean, amazing. Yeah, the fact that they sand it for you. That's what I was about to say. The labor that you don't have to deal with all that. The second question is, what was it? Oh, no supports required for a non-resident printer. That's right. Yay, no supports. Everything's just chamfered out. Everything's at a 45 degree angle, the angle more or less. And then one last question. Let's see. It was Tahit. They received all the parts that they need, and sadly didn't have any speakers, though. So I've been using my favorite new speaker, not new. It's ones that we used to use before. The mini oval speaker has the short little wire. Oh, that's right. I just used the picoblade extension cable because that's a good one into a terminal. If you had gotten the oval one with the longer cable, you could snap that off. Or if you still use the extension, you have all this extra wire that you don't need. True. These are indeed in stock. This just has a shorter wire. It's a better way, I think, because you can easily... Yeah, you don't have to cut anything. The extension cable is already cut. You're right. So even if you just cut it and you're not wasting the plug part or the socket part of it, it's already cut. You already get the other side of it. So I would definitely for, especially upcoming with the Master Sword, it's going to be the exact same way. Just pick up the smaller cabled oval speakers and then grab a bunch of these Pico extenders. Yeah, these are great. Super good tip. I should have added these to the guide. I guess I will now. Oh, I'll talk about it when you're showing off the assembly, the button, the six pin cable extension. Oh, man. Oh, you like that one? Oh, yeah. Yeah. It is going to require an extension with baking your own anyway with the ribbon, the silicone ribbon cable. You're going to have to extend it just a little bit. When you're done, you just plug them in and it's perfect. Okay. Yeah, that's a good idea. So for the RGB LED button, you are going to want six wires, but I split it up. I use the four pin Pico Molex blade connector and I just created my own two wire silicone ribbon cable so that I can differentiate the button from the RGB LED. Thankfully, you don't need a resistor for the RGB LED. It's built into the body of the button, but the button has labels on it. So RGB is the labeling on it and then C plus, which is like the voltage pin. So, you know, I have it here written out how I did it, like the red goes to the red LED, the white wire goes to green, the black wire goes to blue. I thought that made sense, but if you have the four pin, I think it comes in like all the colors, like RGB colors. That's why I like the six pin because every single color that is there corresponds to what the color is. Yeah, like this one, for example. And this is all the colors. It worked out so perfect. Yeah. Here's the four pin one. That's the one I used. You're limited in your color choice. But yeah, the six pin looks nice. And it's in stock. And it, you know, it comes in a pair. So that's really nice. And they're small enough to fit inside and through all the parts inside the hill. So that's really nice. Yeah, these are pretty. Very nice. We've got to get more. We only had one pair. So I got one. Oh man, I need more. Well, that's good. That's good, too. Can you use it on? Yeah, so feel free to use your own cables and stuff, whatever you have on hand. But yeah, you got to solder to the pins. I wouldn't recommend like quick connects because it's just kind of tight in the hill. You don't want to use those quick connects. They have a really long kind of connector bit at the end. So maybe avoid those. The slide switch, it has to get soldered to the enable and ground pin pins on the feather. So you're going to have to kind of create your own wire cable for the slide switch. It's our favorite slide switch because it's so embeddable. It's so easy to kind of mount it to. I guess for the speaker wire, if you got the shorter cable, you just connect that extension cable. But if you do have the longer cable, you're just going to want to cut off the connector bit and tend those tips so that you can screw them in to the screw block terminals. So we're going to solder in the slide switch wires to the feather. I chose the bottom of the feather. Luckily, you have pins, labelings on them on the bottom of the PCB. So that's really nice. But you want it to be kind of short because it doesn't really travel far because it's all built into the PCB holder. And then you want to solder your 4-pin or 6-pin connector cables to the various pins. If you're using the 6-pin, I guess you're going to want to use the screw block terminal for the button, the switch pins instead of soldering to the pins. But yeah, the pin labeling is here too. And if you do use different pins, you're going to want to update the code because the code's looking for very specific pins. So the red LEDs is set up to pin 10, the green LED is 11, and the blue LED is 12. But you could change this up. Just make sure you change the code. For the blade assembly, depending on your polycarbonate tube, you might want to have to print your blade tip, which we have a CAD file for that. It should press fit. But I really like the ultra-saber polycarbonate tubes because they have that resin printed tip that diffuses nicely. It's like a glued on or somehow attached where you don't got to worry about that. Yeah, I think it's glued on. So yeah, it's really nice to have that already done for you. All right. And then the Neopixel strip, we're using the mini-skinny Neopixel strip. And there's 140, 144 LEDs per meter. So you can just get one reel of it. And that should be, that should, I think, go up to, well, a meter long. Whoops. Let me do a quick calculation. One meter, two inches. That's 39 inches long. So if your polycarbonate tube is that long, you can make it that long. I chose the 24 long inch blade polycarbonate tube. So I ended up only, yeah, I ended up only needing 85 pixels, but you can update the code if you're using more or less, depending on your polycarbonate tube. But you do want to create your coroplast strip so that the Neopixel strip becomes like this stick that's rigid and it diffuses. Notice that I'm not, like, doing a double-sided Neopixel strip because the coroplasts and the polycarbonate tube work together to make this. Basically, you don't, you can't see where the blade, you know, which side is the Neopixels facing. It doesn't matter because it's fully, even when it's turned off, you really can't see. Yeah, a little bit, but when you have the surround, you're not going to be able to tell. Yeah, I think you can kind of tell on yours. I wonder, I wonder why that is, yeah, yours kind of shows a little bit of a dark spot. Yeah, it's the same polycarbonate tube, right? Yeah. Maybe it's your camera. Yeah, there you go. Then you can kind of see, yeah, in real life. In real life, you really can't see it because it's a light source, right? But anyway, if you want to add more pixels, you do it again. I chose not to because it lowers the build cost and it increases the battery life. Yeah, it would go, but these Neopixel strips have these stock cables, which I'm not a fan of, so you want to desolder those. And I took it out of the sheathing, too, so that I can double stick it to that strip of coroplast. And then I add the three-pin JST cable to it. So you want to cut your strip, depending on how long your blade is, your tube, and then you'll want two strips of this coroplast stuff. And then I used the double-sided tape to stick it. And then I sandwiched it together and then used scotch tape, wrapped it around. Here you can get a better look at it. So that's how it's working. So once it's inside the tube, like here, yeah, it just diffuses nicely. And you can see there's a little bit of liner material inside the Ultra Sabers polycarbonate tube, which is quite nice. All right, that's the blade. It gets its own page because it's a bit of a thing itself. Next up, we're going to put everything together. So there's a special battery clip for the 2200 milliamp lipo battery. I like these because they're a little bit more durable. Actually, they're a lot more durable than the soft lipos. And it's cylindrical, so it's going to fit inside, you know, a cylindrical hilt. So that just slides in, connect that to the the feather, and then to get the the PCB holder set up, we're going to want to start with the slide switch. It gets press fitted in between those two standoffs that are built into the the PCB holder. And then you're just going to want to do a little bit of bundling of the wires. You'll want those wires to pass under the PCB. And then you'll insert the the feather at an angle, and then just kind of snap fit it in to the other side. And then there's your slide switch. It's right facing up with the USB-C connector. So it's easy to turn off the whole circuit. And then your wires are all coming out on the back of the feather where the screw block terminal is. You'll start with screwing and fastening the the speaker wires. And then the the rest of it the the actually no not yet. You kind of set that aside and then start installing the blade holder that press the JST connector fits through the hole on the bottom. And this is what's going to get press fitted into the into the end of the blade where the wire is coming out. Then you'll want to add your JST connection so that it can go through the hilt. But first you'll want to get the RGB LED button installed. You'll want to get that in there and get the wires to pass all the way through the bottom. And then you'll want to get the blade wires coming through the bottom of the hilt. So you have all your wired connections now. We'll go ahead and connect just plug in your either six pin or four pin connector there. And then now you can screw insert and fasten the the three wires from the the neopixel strip the blade and then the two wires from the the button the RGB LED button. And that's kind of it. Now you can once those are screwed in with the screw block terminals. Now you can start installing the stuff you want to start with the battery. So you want to fit that in making sure that none of the wires being kinked. There's a plenty of room in the battery holder to let those wires pass through. So you just want to orient it where the cables are going to pass through nicely. I ended up using a screwdriver to kind of push the rest of the the battery inside. And then that way you can start fitting the PCB holder into the hilt the bottom of the hilt. There is a flange on the outside of the PCB holder to prevent the PCB holder from like fully going inside. And it also lets you slide it out too. So that's a nice little design feature of the PCB holder. Now you want to secure the button. I'm actually not using the included hex nut because I found that the rubber ring makes a good kind of solution to hold it in place to like press fit it in place. So I just kind of force it in and the the rubber tends to like just kind of flex and stretch a little bit so that it gets nicely gripped into the into the hole of the hilt. All the wires I don't think there's a lot of room to stick your thumb in there to you know hold on to the actual nut. That's why yeah you're right. There's a way to actually do that. Yeah there's no way to do it so. What I had to do was use two of the rubber things so one from like another one of the things so. Oh I see it yeah it's taking a little bit but. Otherwise yeah it's just my printer that was a little bit loose. Oh okay. Right on okay. And then you'll want to test the circuit before installing the blade emitter. So I was able to test it out because you're just going to turn it on and use the button. And then from there you want to slide sorry about that you got a spam call during a live show. The blade emitter slides on through the top of the blade and then it gets screwed onto the hilt and we updated the design so that it's a nice tight fit so you want to make sure that everything is nice and tight when you fasten the blade emitter onto the hilt and that's what keeps the blade inside. Then you can use the slide switch to turn on and off you can easily remove the pommel and put it back on. That's kind of it man it's again I've taken this thing apart a dozen times excuse me and it's it's been really fun. So once you're done you have your lightsaber. I like that you can actually use these for battle. You could yep just be careful not to drop it I guess. Oh the parts yeah yeah you could try ct machining it I suppose as well we haven't tried that but I think our next goal is some sort of some blade or something. Yeah they do have ct machining but I just haven't tried it. And the sounds are pretty good of course you can muffle it if you cover it but I think most lightsabers have the sound coming out of the pommel. I didn't want any noticeable holes here so that's why I chose to have the the pommel have the holes for the for the audio. I really like the the variable sounds that you get. Oh yeah so much better it gives it yeah it's so much better than our original lightsaber. So much better than the ones at Disney because they literally just go through a track list order every single time so you know what the sound effect is coming up next after a bit. Oh funny huh yeah and I don't think especially like the cheaper ones don't have the color changing ability. I don't think things I wanted to really brag about but when we were there shooting film I saw some lady had one and she was cycling through different colors. Really? I don't know if that was you know like the 300 dollar one that you build yourself or right you know maybe she had already the CAD piles and built yours already. That's funny. Yeah I really like the two. See the Disney ones that are that are kind of made at the workshops that they have. A galaxy's edge they have like a kyber crystal that you put inside right and then that is what determines your color. So it's like a cool kind of thing but at the same time it's like oh you guys are charging money for just changing the color aren't you? That's not the first thing too. Right. I've seen it on the Tron disc. I'm sure they do this thing. Oh the Alkron yeah the Sith Alkron. Yeah like come on. All the info was there and this has been going on for such a long time. Like the Teddy Ruckspin you got to pay to unlock stone already there. Yeah it's like a DLC paid DLC. Yes yes but certainly it's saying yep it's a RFID yeah but it's cool if you like the whole lore of having a different crystal. Yeah like you know kudos to them for going the extra mile because that is how the lightsaber lore is you're supposed to have a crystal and that's what determines your colors. The resin mold for the little kyber crystals it's pretty cool. Right yeah I do like those because they look really cool and you have like a special container and all that so it makes it a little bit more nicer if you want to spend the money why not. So that is the lightsaber. It's been many years now. It's been a good amount of years I don't know how many. It's a good upgrade. A fantastic upgrade and I definitely recommend the prop maker Feather. There's a little Star Wars content always out and jumping into this week's prototyping. Yeah let's do it. All right this week's prototyping continuing on with the master sword. Pretty close to getting this done. Liz did excellent job updating the code for the prop maker and pretty much the same as the last one. Big difference being that it's completely modular now so no more hot glue everything. You can see the screws here still doing the assembly shots for that so I didn't want to oh yeah that together but here's what the inside of everything looks like and here you can see the prop maker side there the speakers the battery and the led strip and the way the assembly for this guy is all screws yay no more glue. Yay screws. Yeah so we're using the m25s for connecting the blades and those have enough room to just get your screwed over there and then the m3 20 by 20 millimeter long so it can fit all the way through and then one of the biggest complaints with some of the like the the guardian sword back there was the the standoff always breaking off so when I had it merged let me just turn this off so you can see it better when I had it just merged all of the standoffs with the walls there ain't no way that's gonna break off yeah that's really nice part of it so there's nothing that can just snap off of it and yeah that's a pretty that's a really good practice on when you're making standoffs don't make them where they're just free floating in the air make sure they have like fillets on the bottom so they're like glued you know attached to something that is a lot more sturdier than it is by itself so every single one of those are just attached to the wall same thing with the little tabs here they're super thick actually it's better to show it on this one yeah so these tabs are here super thick so even if you break some of it because of the way that they print the orientation they still work cool was a nice way to do that and then the other thing I didn't bring the other the other uh the longer blade of this because the original one that uh cast core tech made it's so freaking long um it's like a yeah it's like a claymore so you can even the handle you know just barely has enough room for both of your hands which are gonna need both hands actually swing that thing around and since this is pretty much just like a toy for the kids so a lot more difficult for them to swing that around so I made it to where I redid the blade so that the tip uh can just be attached to the main um main like this main uh blade so you can either have it be small or if you want you can attach that extra part to make the full size so it is compatible with uh the other blade sections as it were and then uh yeah everything just screws together so super you know sturdy even if you know like in the game if it breaks you can just print piece off that's nice yeah attach it so there's not any glue to hold you back on that I think the only place I'm gonna have to use glue um is the little strip the way that the strip is gonna hold on to the center of the blade since I am gonna have to cut this I'm gonna try the coroplast first though right I am gonna have to cut it to uh yeah I see how you wrapped it around yeah so that's the full uh length the full meter of the new pixels 144 pixels are in there and then the uh Liz was able to get all the pins transferred over and then animation works excellent on that all the clashes the way that the energy animation goes through yeah super cool and then we'll talk about it uh next week just the way just a little I can't backwards here just the way like things like the um the uh battery the way that holds on there yeah that's really good that just snaps in like that and uh yeah again with the um using the small short uh cabled oval speaker and then I'm just using the extension to connect that into the terminal there yeah so a lot more modular all of the pieces have little holders that screw onto the main base of the handles you kind of see that there I am using screws for even though I probably should just switch this out to the pin but I'm too traumatized with little pins popping out and like no I can't well because of this little pin I gotta you know redo this project um my other thing here too is this uh this little tab here only because I didn't want to have it on the inside of here where I would need to take out the board before I could even take off this whole holder so right but it gives there's enough clearance when you insert the usb okay very good good yeah everything just goes on like that and just screws in I will show this um what is that rubber necked thing that I'm using the with the power drill like an angled bit is what I'm using to get into the crevices of this you regular screwdriver does fit in there but you know they're it's a m25 by 12 millimeters long so it is kind of you know a struggle to sit there and screw it by hand so I am using a power drill and the only way to fit it in there is with that angled uh bit holder so I will show that off next week cool that's how all that is uh modular blade and uh all the components modular very nice detail um I guess we could talk about the funny us trying to get this 3d printed with a pc was it no jlc as well yeah I'll sent it in I was like super maize was like oh my god it's only like a dollar per piece uh it's you know it's ordered you know two pieces of this and then we get an email in the morning saying that they cannot print this for us because it looks like a weapon yeah so they have like a policy um they're shipping customs because of that they can't ship items that resemble weapons including guns uh swords even though it's like a toy they don't want to get in any legal trouble so they uh they deny they have to go through approval process for every part so just be aware of that so if you're trying to make like a ray gun they probably won't allow that either um but other things like the d20 should work fine something like this something like a a case that looks like um like a nintendo or an old school macintosh like all that stuff should be fine so just be be be aware like this doesn't look like a weapon it looks like a flashlight it is a flashlight not a weapon this one kind of is a tube it just it's just the shape maybe the tip oh i mean the file name said master sword on us they're like oh we ain't getting into any of these legal problems right yeah so they rejected them they're free to do so mm-hmm yeah and i'm kind of relieved to because it's like oh man now i have to you know paint it and all that what i had done was uh some of the filament that we were looking at last week from a stronghold um you saw it there was like a blue purple dual tone one i ordered that and that's what it looks great so that's something the printing services can't do have like multi-tone colors yeah glitter colors so that'll look super nice but i was interested to see how well they're i forget the the material that i picked it's whatever their default material is it's like uh high temperature like good for like working prototypes i wanted to see the strength for that and if it uh how diffused leds i was very curious of that because when i searched for that nobody's tested that so right oh well yeah there's something else yep yep we'll have some more props that aren't in the shape of the sword or a gun yeah or it is all i gotta do is uh do the painting for the little um the gold painting on there for the triforce and all that yeah that's gonna look great okay we got some uh a flexible shaft a rotating yes that's what it is yes yes yeah so screwdriver alternatives if your power drill is too bulky they also have like hand cranked ones yeah let me check out the one that is that it no this is just like a hand one no no no yeah mr saying if your drill is too bulky or overpowered because remember you can have like a um oh gosh what are those really strong ones the driver or something oh the impact yeah impact driver would just strip so i'm glad you ordered the what's the name it's not the fill up screw drivers the other ones the heck screws because i stripped so many because yeah even with the it's not an impact but yeah it's way more power than your hand will have and i stripped so many of those uh yeah the philips ones yeah i don't like philips yeah they can't actually and i tried different uh bit you know bits you know there's like different sizes for like the um the philips heads and i tried like a thin one i tried a a thicker one and yeah it stripped all of them or a good majority of them where i was just like good thing i have a whole bunch and just throw them away after each time i was handling and disassembling stuff yeah like i can't reprint this it takes freaking eight hours for one part yeah all right well that's good um well you know we'll talk about that more we're running a little bit out of time so let's go ahead and run out of energy yeah i know man you need to rest up real quick we have a time lapse video this week it's time for halloween halloween is here planning your halloween things so that when halloween comes you'll be all ready so this is a really fun printed place design um from sun oh boy what was the name i have it here unsat 3d they created a amazing scary pumpkin monster creature that has you know hinges for limbs so it can move in all sorts of directions and you use this really fun material it's a pla that's i guess rainbow and you just had a good color i got so lucky on the color change on the rainbow color that was coming up next green and the orange good it looks so freaking good i got so lucky on that it can hang off of uh i wish i could showcase that but that's all the energy i had for shooting this yeah that's so sunset 3d has this design up on printables.com it's a free download um it looks really cool it prints without any supports because it has a flat backing that's that's how you they're you're able to print all the pieces all printed place the challenge has worked out well then with that material excellent again the stronghold pla uh the rainbow stuff i'm gonna guess any of their stuff that they have is freaking whole strong there's no cleanup that i had to do there's no like um usually with the time lapses there's like you know harry you know um uh overextrusions and stuff like that yeah and look at the color change on that it's changed right on like divine details so and that has like that shine on it wow that is a lot of detail it is so good oh my god that's amazing obviously jack one's like oh my god i want another one and he's been playing it for a while so you know you know how kids are they're throwing stuff around in it there's nothing broken on this wow yeah they're they seem pretty thick on the uh word the orange turn going next for you know the colors right on the pumpkin face oh look how he drew it up yeah it's really nice this is good for uh like he's showing there off the lamp or on your window decoration well giant one of these would be pretty cool yeah would uh yeah check it out is it a pay i don't remember no it's three yeah it's three yeah he has a paypal if you guys want to donate oh yeah definitely yeah so we're gonna if it was for pay yeah a lot of stuff from colt i'll pay for it yeah i thought it was a paid for it too excellent very very nice very cool huge shout out to sunset 30 okay and then uh for community makes we just have one make this week it's our first make shout out to sarah r who posted up their make of adabot sarah rated it five stars and says it's such a cute surprisingly quick project had to reprint a couple of the pieces one percent bigger or smaller to get the saw uh press fit connect connections even still would recommend putting a little bit of super glue on the edge of the bolt because it tends to pop back in when eager little hands are trying to yeah like the kids would push that in press video uh it printed everything in pla at point one six millimeters on a point four nozzle and ironed the top surfaces of the pupils so that they're extra pretty huh yeah they look very very nice i don't see any layer lines other than like here a bit but that's kind of okay and uh pencils seem to work fine with adabot they chose the black button okay all the colors that looks really nice look at all that wow very good very nice love it i'm so happy somebody finally made adabot because it was a lot of work a lot of cat work a lot of reprinting um because there's the touches are so like precise on adabot for everything uh um i really wanted like the um the arms to be able to bend but also hold and that was really difficult to do um like i just couldn't you can you kind of see right on um there's a little bit of a gap between the two arm halves because what you're doing is your the magnets are are kind of sandwiching and gripping onto the joints for the arm claw and the arm joint so that it can stay up when you're articulating the arm so you have to make compromises and that was one of the compromises i had to make was to you're going to see a little bit of a gap because just the friction fit of the of the parts i wanted to be able to to move because if you don't if it was flush his arm would just freely flop around and that's one of those things cool shout out to sarah really fantastic make awesome offer and i believe that is it for the show go and tell us tonight so if you folks want to come on it's going to be hosted by uh mr. mrs. lady aida philip toron they will be hosting tonight's show and tell i'll be on there with the lightsaber so i'll just let them know i will be resting yeah you need to rest up i'm so surprised you did the show but hey you did it for you folks i don't want it next week uh we might need uh another week to uh to get the learn guide for the master sword but that's fine i think i should be able to i'm far enough to where assembling the hardest part was converting everything into getting the screws to fit and then having the blade be modular very nice very nice printing i'll be working on this guy here with phil b i have these parts being printed in resin from jlc pcb um so the this is the talking d20 it has the prop maker feather it's uh it's got the board here and phil b shout out to phil b for this lovely idea of uh adding pennies as a counterweight so that the both halves are equal so uh that's what i'm working on this isn't prototyping segment now but i'm working on that and uh halloween's x yeah tombstones with the head moving yeah halloween we'll do halloween props maybe we got the r2d2 back there you got the r2d2 still button sound effect thingies there's a bunch of stuff yeah whatever cool movie oh loki whatever happens in loki right yeah maybe there's some new time batons or something tba props yeah that one looks like a flashlight it does not look like a ray gun or something i'll try that one all right thank you everybody so much for watching don't forget our coupon code and one later tonight jedi sith is for today we'll have another one later tonight don't forget jp show tomorrow and then i believe scott is back with uh deep dives so there's still some shows for this the week but until then hope you guys have a good weekend stay safe out there folks until next week remember to make make a great day see you later bye folks